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Draw-Tite install on my 2012 Edge


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This weekend I installed a new Draw-Tite Class III/IV hitch on my 2012 Edge. It took a bit longer than the estimated 45 minutes, but I think that assumes you have a lift, a buddy, and have done this before. I think all in all it took me under 2 hours. But it was beautiful outside so who cares.

 

As far as I can tell, this hitch, #75709 is the same as the Hidden Hitch 87604, and Reese 44658, and all have a $30 mail-in rebate thru July 14th.

 

First off, let the car's exhaust cool down. You don't want to get burned when you lower the exhaust.

 

Lower the exhaust:

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I went ahead and removed all 4 rubber isolators, rather than the 3 that are just on the rear exhaust (the 3rd one is behind the muffler, and not as obvious as the other 2 hangers). I don't know if this was bad or not, but now that I think about it, it probably wasn't a good idea. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't do remove that hanger. To remove them, I sprayed the post with WD-40 and used a screw driver to get them off, it's kind of a pain, but they eventually come off.

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My wife helped me lower the exhaust after I removed the center and 3rd isolator.

 

Disconnect rear facia support:

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Really simple, unbolt the center support, carefully fold it back as pictured, and replace the bolt into the original hole.

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Remove the heat shields:

3 bolts each, and one plastic plug. This plug is pain to remove. Note, on the drivers side sheild, my wiring harness was attached to it. I kept it attached, and modified the shield while it was still under the vehicle, it wasn't too hard to do at all.

 

Trim heat shields:

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Using tin snips made this task very simple. Cut the tab off and cut the other corner off to make room for the bolts.

 

Replace the heat shields:

The less you have to do before fishing the bolts in place the better. Just put the one screw in loosely and attach that plastic plug to get it in the general vicinity (you are replacing the screw that is toward the center of the vehicle).

 

Set up bolts and pull wire:

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Attach the pull wire to the bolts, and place a kink in the wire to pull the spacers. Do not straighen out the pull wire, as you will need the curl to guide the wire into the proper holes. This took some time, but by the second side, I got a handle on it. Be patient, and you will guide it to the right hole. Do not remove the wire from the bolts at this time. If they get jostled while moving the hitch into position, you can still guide them back.

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Install the hitch:

I don't have many picture of this portion, but I did figure out one great idea. Use a floor jack to position the hitch. This made it so much easier, just center the jack, and the hitch pretty much balancees on the jack.

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I raised the hitch up near the rails, guided the pull wire though the hitch mount, placed the heat shield in its proper place, and the proceeded to jack the hitch up to body. With the washers and the bolts handy, I then removed the pull wire from the bolt I was working with, and screwed it in just for placement. I did one on one side, and the second one on the other, opposite side, and then the same for the other 2 bolts.

 

Check Your Center!

 

Tighten to 75 ft-lb.

 

Tighten the heat shield.

 

Hang your exhaust.

 

Attach toys.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for this write up! Got my hitch installed (with a buddy helping to hold things) in 45 minutes!

 

Just a few notes, from reading your post and my experience (just finished up an hour ago):

 

1. We sprayed down the exhaust system with a water hose to cool things down. This also allowed me to separate the rubber isolators from the hanger with a VERY easy pull, no tools, no lubricant (it also helps that I only have 2000 miles on the car, so they are fresh and flexible). They also went back on with ZERO effort. I only removed the 3 rearmost isolators, 1 each behind each exhaust tip and center one behind the muffler).

 

2. No need to remove the heat shields. I only had to trim the tab that was inserted in one of the mounting holes. The other part of the shield was not in the way.

 

All in all a very, VERY easy install. Here's a photo of my car without the hitch (when my car was 1 day old) and an hour ago with the hitch installed. The hitch puts no pressure on the lower bumper fascia and has a nice, flush/close install.

 

Thanks again for your GREAT write up. Definitely helped us out.

 

P.S. That is the Scion xB bumper cover on my car: http://www.amazon.co...ils_o01_s00_i00

 

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Edited by candurin
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  • 4 weeks later...

1. We sprayed down the exhaust system with a water hose to cool things down. This also allowed me to separate the rubber isolators from the hanger with a VERY easy pull, no tools, no lubricant (it also helps that I only have 2000 miles on the car, so they are fresh and flexible). They also went back on with ZERO effort. I only removed the 3 rearmost isolators, 1 each behind each exhaust tip and center one behind the muffler).

 

I installed my 2012 within the first couple thousand miles and found the isolators to be a real pain to remove even using WD-40. Part of it was probably the lack of leverage on a creeper, but those things were a real hassle and what took the longest.

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I just installed a Hidden Hitch today, for use with a bike rack. The one thing i realized real quick is that.... The rear assist sensor is locked on solid warning when i put the car into reverse now that the bike rack is on.

 

Can this sensor be adjusted or turned off... I just got this car (2010) 3 months ago.

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Yes. Do you have mft? When backing up you simply use the directional pad on the left side of the steering wheel and select off on the left side console screen (it will say "reverse aid, on/off?". That turns it off on the fly for that instance (Turns back on for next use).

 

You can also turn it off in the menu options.

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  • 2 years later...

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