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HID lamp suddenly not working, BUT....


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Hey guys, I'm hoping that someone here can help me out. Back in May, I installed a 3rd party HID kit (Retro-Solutions http://retro-solutions.net/product-info.php?55W_DIGITAL_HID_KIT-pid664.html ). It's been working just fine up until a week or so ago. Now only my passenger side light works. The driver side light does a quick flash at turn-on, but then fails to light. (I would assume this means the bulb is OK, but something is keeping it from loading. I checked all of the connections today and found nothing. Pulled down the wiring diagram (attached) from website and reviewed it, but don't see anything that I didn't already check. I did notice that there is only one fuse in use just before the battery, so there aren't fuses for each ballast. Is it possible that only one light would stop working due to a fuse issue? Here's why I ask. Just a couple of weeks ago, I was in the Ford Dealership and they detached my battery to reset my SYNC that was going haywire. That's all working now, but now I have this light problem. No clue if its related but thats the only possible connection that I can make as to why it may have stopped working. I have no evidence that it stopped working right after the battery detach, but it's kinda fishy that I noticed the light out a few days afterward. I haven't swapped the bulbs yet because I'm not that technically inclined on this stuff, but I'm guessing that's the next step. But I thought I'd check with you guys for any "experienced" input in case someone has had this very problem before. Thoughts?

 

Thanks!

Ron

 

 

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I would suggest flip flopping the bulbs left to right, right to left to rule out the bulb. That is the easiest test.

 

From there you may want to confirm voltage IN to the ballast when the lights are switched to on (DO NOT TOUCH THE OUTBOUND TO BULB BALLAST WIRES).

 

Assuming good voltage to the ballast on the side not lighting then trade ballasts to see if the problem follows the ballast.

 

You are looking at four possible faults basically:

 

The bulb is bad.

The ballast is bad.

No power is making it to the ballast.

No power is making it from the ballast to the bulb.

 

Various wiring issues may lead to either of the last two. Frayed wires causing arcing may keep power from making it to the ballast or bulb.

 

The last one is something you DO NOT want to find out bare handed. The voltage coming out of most ballasts is 25 thousand Plus volts and hurts like you wouldn't believe. The ignition sequence of a HID bulb REQUIRES lots of amperage but once burning they use very little amperage.

 

Adding:

 

If you have no capacitor this could be signaling a charging/battery system problem but that is a long-shot.

 

I know some people will suggest capacitors if you don't have them but honestly, if you are connected directly to the battery that is the ultimate power capacitor in this situation already. They may help but I am skeptical.

 

If the lights worked when you left the dealership I would not think their work had anything to do it. Has their been a sudden temp change/drop?

 

I used to run an auto shop and I am VERY familiar with the customers "last touch" perspective when a new problem occurs regardless of how long after the service it occurs.

Edited by 12Edge
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, thanks for all the input. Sorry that it's been a bit since I was here (Holidays and all). Unfortunately, I'm just not car techie enough to really try this stuff. I'm going to try to change the bulb from one side to the other today. So far I can't seem to get my fingers in the darn housing where the bulb lives. On top of that, this whole ballast warning has me afraid to touch anything. I don't want to get shocked. With that said if there is anyone in the Seattle area that knows this stuff, I would be MORE THAN HAPPY to bring my car to you to help me troubleshoot this. The folks that originally installed this unit will be available to me on 1/6, but I'm anxious to get it fixed before I get pulled over for a blown out headlight. Any takers? In the meantime, I'll try my luck at swapping the bulbs.

 

Thanks,

Ron

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Well after a valiant effort, I simply can't get my hands in there to take the bulbs out. Specifically on the drivers side where the rear of the lighting housing is blocked by the fuse box. I removed the fuse box, but still couldn't get my hands in the hole to remove the bulb. So I'm SOL at this point. I'll have to find a 3rd party custom shop to take a look which is going to suck because the place that installed them originally is no longer in business. Ugh.

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if you are using auto lights, try doing just turning them on manually. I know with auto sometimes one of my lights would go on then go back out. I would have to turn the lights off for a few seconds then turn them back on and it would come on. I have resorted to not using the auto feature anymore since having HIDs is a lot nicer than lights that turn on and off on their own. What was Ford thinking not giving the Sport model HIDs?

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if you are using auto lights, try doing just turning them on manually. I know with auto sometimes one of my lights would go on then go back out. I would have to turn the lights off for a few seconds then turn them back on and it would come on. I have resorted to not using the auto feature anymore since having HIDs is a lot nicer than lights that turn on and off on their own. What was Ford thinking not giving the Sport model HIDs?

HEAR HEAR! Unfortunately, I bought the car used. It's a 2011 Sport. I stupidly just assumed the lights were HID. Found out after the purchase. But I agree. How could the Sport not always include the HIDs?

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Preach It, I Actually Have About The Same Issue. I Trouble ShoT Mine When I Was Using The Auto And The Driver Side Would Turn Off after Start Up, Now The Driver Lo Beam Itself Is Dead Because I Swapped Back Thinking LOw Voltage Killed The BallAst. Heard Someone On The board Say Mine Could Be A Fuse Since Totally Dead But Learned My Lesson With The Auto Headlight.

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Preach It, I Actually Have About The Same Issue. I Trouble ShoT Mine When I Was Using The Auto And The Driver Side Would Turn Off after Start Up, Now The Driver Lo Beam Itself Is Dead Because I Swapped Back Thinking LOw Voltage Killed The BallAst. Heard Someone On The board Say Mine Could Be A Fuse Since Totally Dead But Learned My Lesson With The Auto Headlight.

McClellan so what exactly is this auto headlight that you linked to? Is it specifically for better handling of the auto headlight setting in our vehicles?

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