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the drivers side door open light does not go off.


72harley1000

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the drivers side door open light does not go off. I tried spraying the latch, did nothing. I am trying to get at the switch, and removed the outer panel on the inside of the door, but can not get the inner panel off.

Is there a video that shows the procedure? Also does anyone know if that switch is normally open when the door is closed? Anyone have any idea about leaving that switch disconnected, as they are a. expensive, b. extremely hard to replace, c. prone to failure according to all the reports I have read, and d. a real pain in the ass to hear that dinging.

Thanks

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I think the inner panel is glued on. Maybe a hair dryer or heat gun to help it release?

 

Also read here that disconnecting the switch will turn off the light as well http://www.fixya.com/cars/t12642051-location_door_ajar_switch_2011_ford

 

What did you spray the latch with? If you sprayed with WD-40, you need to follow it up with electrical parts cleaner at the very minimum. Then lube the latch to striker surfaces with "Krytox grease" (basically Teflon, I think).

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My edge is a 2013. I sprayed the latch with contact cleaner after penetrating oil. It did not change anything. After taking out all the bolts for the inner panel, I can get it to move some with difficulty, but it appears to be taking the window with it. I didn't want to pry for fear of damaging something. If the glass is meant to come out with the unit, should the window be up or down when attempting the removal?

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I would like to hear from someone who has actually replaced a switch on an edge, as I have never seen an inner panel such as this on any other car. Also the videos that show replacement of a switch on other cars don't show anything like this panel.

Also, if there is a way to disable the switch by unplugging it somewhere else, I am ok with that as I don't care about the light coming on with an open door.

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  • 2 months later...

Well, no one had any ideas about how to get this inner panel out, so I kept driving it with this dinging going on until I couldnt stand it any longer. I had the idea to go to a local custom body shop, and the owner told me how to get the inner panel out. First, look for two rubber grommets near the top left and right side of the panels. Remove them, and then lower the window until you see the heads of screws in the openings. Loosen those screws, and the window separates from the track. He told me that the window should come out, but I found it was just as easy to slide the window to the top and use some duct tape to hold it up and out of the way.

Now you can get the panel to come out, but it is still held in place by a plastic piece on the left side. This becomes a problem, as that piece is bolted to the panel from the inside. It is flexible enough so that I was able to reach around and remove those bolts, but I sure wish I had the engineer who designed this setup there to do it for me.

That plastic piece stays in the door, and makes removing the latch hard to do, but it is flexible enough to move out of the way. It is easier if you have another person to help twist that piece up and out of the way.

I learned a couple of things,

1. Spraying your latch will do nothing, as the switch is inaccessible from the outside.

2. The latch assy will have to be replaced, so you should either order an assy. Ahead of time or make sure that your Ford dealer has one in stock before taking your door apart.

3. The Ford dealer says that they can reprogram the old switch, at a cost of 75. If you bring the latch to them. They say that works 80% of the time, but there is no guarantee.

4. You can find the latch on ebay for as low as 86., and supposedly if you get it from a ford dealer there is a 2 year warranty on the part.

5. Someone told me that just disconnecting the switch will solve the problem, but I tried that, and can report that the light stays on along with the dinging, and it causes other problems.

 

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  • 1 year later...

There is a very large thread (over 100 replies and 30000 views) in the 2011 Edge and MKX forum under "Door Ajar warning light on at all times."

 

I tried to link the thread here but could not do it. There is one suggestion (with pictures) on how to use electrical spray to try and fix it. It seems to have worked for some people.

 

I am going to try it, as the air spray plus WD40 didn't fix it for good.

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I tried to link the thread here but could not do it. There is one suggestion (with pictures) on how to use electrical spray to try and fix it. It seems to have worked for some people.I am going to try it, as the air spray plus WD40 didn't fix it for good.

This process works for a few days, but the problem will reappear. As you continue to reapply WD 40 (or electrical contact cleaner) the problem will get worse with time.

I went thru this already slamming door repeatedly until light went out.

I would not wish this head ache on anyone.

Save yourself the aggravation, look up the p/n or call the dealer for it. If you cannot do the repair, get it done by a local (trusted) mechanic.

 

I have the part and will be installing it this w/e.

 

Good luck

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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Posted this also on the passenger door side latch post. My problem is the driver's door:

 

I have now joined the club with this issue. Started at around 60k miles, and now for approximately 4 months, mysterious openings of the rear hatch, alarm going off, door ajar light on - like the car was possessed. I've wondered if it was my inadvertent hitting of the rear door release on the fob instead of the lock button when I came out of a store to find the hatch up.

Anyway, I've researched the issue, found the cause, and found all sorts of DIY fixes. To date (spanning over 1 1/2 months) I've tried WD40 (no good) and the brake cleaner (hit or miss success). I've tried closing the driver's side with the passenger's door open, windows down, etc., in an attempt to relieve pressure when the door is closed. That too, hit or miss. Never tried electrical parts cleaner.

Finally got it into the dealer yesterday for repairs, and they have called to say it's been "repaired" it under TSB 15-0013 guidelines. I notified Ford of this problem for their documentation as well. I'll pick it up from the dealer later today.

I've read the TSB 15-0013 procedure (that has been discussed here in earlier posts), and it amounts to spraying a cleaner and actuating the switch 20 times while connected to a diagnostic tool. From what I have read from others experience, this may not be a permanent fix to a long standing and well know issue with the switch/latch mechanism.

I am not happy with Ford's position and resolution to this known defect. I have an ESP, so it will cost me the $100 deductible for what I believe will not fix the problem long term. Only a full latch replacement will do that.

I am posting this in advance of getting my Edge back on the road. But there have been so many documented problems with these switches, I wanted to alert others to my experience going to the dealer and the process there to continue the dialog that may be of help to others.

Edited by SoMdLimited
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  • 2 months later...

Oy. I feel your pain. I *JUST* purchased a lightly used (20k miles) 2013 Ford Edge SEL. The door ajar light is on every other time I start the car. The door is clearly closed and I just called Ford Service, who only accepts vehicles for service from 8-4pm. (I work 8-5pm) and WILL NOT give me a loaner vehicle to use if I drop it off during my lunch break. What a pain. I haven't even gotten my paperwork in the mail that I need to take to the tag office because of problems with the paperwork. Guess I'll just deal with a dinging door until January when I have additional PTO time to take off of work and deal with this. The car will still be under warranty for the next 5 years. Annoying.

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