RustyEdge Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 The white wire is used to dim the DRL to 70% brightness at nighttime while driving so as not to blind oncoming traffic. The white trigger wire can be connected to a few different sources such as low beam headlight, front parking light or side marker LED. The white wire will only activate the 70% dimmed portion of the DRL when the electronics module is active (ignition on). If the electronics module is not on (vehicle not running) the 70% DRL will not illuminate for courtesy function. That is the purpose of the courtesy harness. Hey Norm, I have the first version of the EDGE2's currently and the white wire is connected to the power wire from the factory light pipes which maintains the couresy function. The only downside is that when the parking lights are on, the white wire is triggered and the DRL's function at 70% (instead of the normal 100%) but are still brigher than the stock lights. I never drive with just the parking lights on so it's not a big deal for me. When the courtesy lights are activated by ulocking the car or opening the doors, I belive they are at 70% power as well. So my question now would be, will this adapter keep the lights at 100% when using the courtesy feature? If not then I see no need for the $15 dollar adapter from my perspective. Actually either way the adapter might not be a necessity for me since the courtesy feature is just that, a courtesy. The 70% illlumination is more than enough for it's intended purpose. -Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normcloutier Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 The harness is not required for original V2 lights. The courtesy function works on the original V2 DRL (the one with the electronics built into the light) when 12VDC is supplied to the white dimming wire. This activates the DRL in night time mode (70% brightness). The courtesy harness is only for the DRL's with the outboard electronics module because the white wire will not activate the DRL unless the module is already receiving power (ignition on). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyEdge Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Ahah I see, I didn't realize the first versions has the controllers built into the lights. I did notice the different control module and that the new lights had a harness plug instead of the bare wires. Thanks for the clarification, looks like I'll be ordering the new harness before installation. -Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 This is very interesting. I have the early version with the electronics in the light housing. I also use the amber LEDs in them for strobing while working charity events. This was easy with the separate wires controlling the turn signal input. Would that now be impossible with the new design? Or is there a separate wire between the electronics module and the lights that handles the turn signal? I already use a relay to shut off all other functions (DRL/parking lamp/turn signal) of the EDGE2 lamps when the strobes are turned on so the electronics module would not be in the circuit anyway. I ask because the left side stopped working in DRL mode last week after an extended drive in very heavy rain and I suspect water intrusion has cause a problem. But if I will lose my strobing capability by replacing with the newer design then I will just live with it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjsockett Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 I'm not sure how the strobes work but the new DRL's have a wire coming out of the control box that connects to the headlamp turn signal wire as a trigger for the DRL turn signal. I would guess that you could split that wire and send to the turn signal as well as whatever you use to trigger the strobes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 I ordered my additional wire kit from Dan for the latest version of his DRL's to retain the courtesy lights. Received it today, after ordering it on Saturday. Just wondering why the new power wire to connect to the fuse box is black? I've never used a black wire for 12+ volts in an automobile, always used anything other than black, which is a ground 12- wire. I also need to know the size of the quick tap connector because there wasn't one with the package. Will have to pick one up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 You know, I've probably said this before but I will say it again. Dan's level of customer service is second to none! I had sent him an email describing how my left Edge2 light would not come on after an 1100 mile trip in constant pouring rain and asking what I might look for or test to try to repair the problem. Without any prompting from me, he replied that he would ship me a new set as replacement since the new ones have better waterproofing and are wired somewhat differently. I was blown away by his commitment to customer satisfaction - something you don't see a lot anymore. Many thanks Dan! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 I got the harness hooked up, and now have the courtesy light function once again! I checked with 3 auto parts stores, and a large hardware store, and none of them carried the wire taps except for 16-18 gauge wire. Finally found some at WalMart for the 22-16 size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bce Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 You know, I've probably said this before but I will say it again. Dan's level of customer service is second to none! I had sent him an email describing how my left Edge2 light would not come on after an 1100 mile trip in constant pouring rain and asking what I might look for or test to try to repair the problem. Without any prompting from me, he replied that he would ship me a new set as replacement since the new ones have better waterproofing and are wired somewhat differently. I was blown away by his commitment to customer satisfaction - something you don't see a lot anymore. Many thanks Dan! I completely agree with this. I also contacted Dan with a problem I was having with mine because of moisture in the original DRLs. Two days later, I have a completly new setup ready to be installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyEdge Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 I completely agree with this. I also contacted Dan with a problem I was having with mine because of moisture in the original DRLs. Two days later, I have a completly new setup ready to be installed. Ditto! Same issue and Dan's response time and customer service is superb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc300c Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Sorry for taking so long to chime in on this. Can't seem to find the time to check out the forum as much as I had in the past. As mentioned, we have experienced some moisture issues with the first version. We narrowed it down to two areas. One was the plug opening in the back of the DRL and the other was the lens seal. The new version now has an integrated wire harness and plug that now powers and controls the DRL operation and eliminates the plug connection. The lens seal leak was being caused by the housing material being too flexible in relation to the rigid clear lens material. The housing would flex with heat and stress, but the lens would not. Over time the flexing could cause a gap to open and possibly allow water to enter under the lens. We now make the housing out of a more rigid material eliminating the flexing and curing the leaking issue. We have had these new versions out in the field for about 6 months now and have not had a single water leak. I can't thank you all enough for helping me troubleshoot these issues. I am totally amazed at how eager you all were to help me work this all out. I count myself lucky to have such wonderful people to work with and consider many of you as friends. As many of you understand, there can be some growing pains when developing a new product. But with the invaluable information and help you all provided me, we now have a very reliable and even better performing product for our Ford Edge. As many of you have stated, I do stand by my products. I was always taught that you treat others as you would want them to treat you and that carries over into my business. If something's not right, you can damn well be sure I will do everything possible to make it right. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Whedge Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Dan, I will be ordering a set from you for my 2014 Edge Sport shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggmh123 Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 Hello! I got my DRL kit today, and I think that you might enjoy my craziness. Having been a Ford tune-up mechanic for 18 years, the first thing I did was to look at how to install the lamp assemblies themselves more easily. Please see my revised method. Modified instructions for lamp assembly installation on 2014 Edge: Requirements: · Long arms, strong fingers, ability to work with hands without seeing object being removed or installed, and at least a little tolerance (or enjoyment) of pain. Installation steps: · Let engine cool if you think getting burned is a problem. · Leave wheel well covers in place. Installation will be done from the engine compartment. · Open hood, reach long arm down from engine compartment into wheel well, remove clips holding current lamp assembly or black plastic lamp blank in place, remove lamp or plastic blank. · With plastic protection film still on DRL lens, gently insert DRL assembly into wheel well from engine compartment. · Using your free hand, reach into lamp mounting hole from front of bumper and remove lens protection from lamp assembly. · Insert lamp assembly into place and install two retaining clips. · Repeat for other side. · Total time for lamp installation: about 10 minutes. · Getting a few scratches and remembering why I stopped being a mechanic: Priceless! I'll get to the wiring tonight. Gregg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggmh123 Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 I got my DRLs installed. I only had one problem, and that was that the fuse box lid would not close with that ignition trigger "two fuses in one connector" adapter. I had to junk that piece and make my own connection with an inline fuse and a small terminal on the end that went into an available "hot with ignition on" slot. It may have been slot 91 on my 2014 Edge SE. Anyway, the lights look GREAT, even when OFF, i.e., they look a lot better than the ugly black blanks on an SE. My wife was impressed, and she really liked the giant long turn signal addition to the standard ones (too close) by the headlights. In Dan's video, the stock turn signals are hard to see with the headlights on, but the ones in the DRL cannot be missed unless one is blind. Gregg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc300c Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Glad the install went well. Love your idea of going from the engine compartment. Unfortunately my shorter arms and fingers wouldn't allow for that. So happy you and your wife are enjoying the new DRLs. I just uploaded an unlisted and unedited YouTube installation video I took yesterday. I didn't want to delay getting it up until I edited out the dog barks and bloopers. It's about 22 minutes long, so get out your popcorn :-). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggmh123 Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Dan, One mistake that I see in the video is the ring on your finger while working near a battery. I was a Ford tune-up tech for 18 years and knew several guys who got a hand stuck in various places because of a ring. I told one shop foreman that he shouldn't wear his watch (metal band) while removing batteries and he laughed at the comment. Not long afterwards, he welded his watchband onto his wrist when a battery slipped and rammed his wrist in between the positive post and ground. The screams and the burn were quite bad. Other mechanics have lost fingers by getting their rings caught between in between the positive post and ground. Safety first! Gregg Hill 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggmh123 Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Nice comparison video side by side showing the true differences between the lights. I recommend doing one that is less shaky, and showing the differences in turn signals and hazard flashers as well. Show off that giant turn signal! Gregg Hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc300c Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Thanks for the safety tip Gregg. Never thought about that. The wife would not be too pleased with me If I ruined the ring or my finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggmh123 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 "Never thought about that." Neither did I until I got my arm stuck two feet up in car's dash...at lunch time...and had to wait for someone to finish lunch and hand me a long screwdriver to pry out my hand. Trust me, that only has to happen once, especially with a bunch of "friends" tormenting me because they knew that I could not move. Jerks. Of course, I would have done the same to them! Gregg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisbritt1995 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) I'm not gonna lie, Dan... Mine are supposed to get here tomorrow, and I'm really anxious about installing them properly. Your video definitely made me feel a little more informed, though! I'll be putting them in with my friend who owns a detailing business and is always working with cars, so hopefully the two of us together won't be able to ruin it. Haha Edited August 10, 2014 by chrisbritt1995 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimeld Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 Install the new EDGE-2 DRL,they worked great for a month.Now I have a problem.They will not turn off when I shut te motor off.One or both stay on. Check with Dan on this problem.He suggested I disconnect them for 3-5 minutes.Then reconnect.Tried this but it didn't work. Any suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 It sounds like the relay is stuck in the closed position. Fortunately, relays are inexpensive as long as you don't buy them at Radio Shack. Most auto parts stores should have a "Bosch type" 5-pin 30-amp relay for around $10. You can get them online for less than a third of that amount. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggmh123 Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Jimeld, Assuming that there is a physical relay in the controller box, an easy way to test would be to flick the controller box with your finger to "bounce" the contacts in the relay. That flick usually will kick loose any sticking contacts. The only thing that can turn on the lights is the controller (or a short to power). If a relay is sticking, do not try to fix it yourself. Get the controller replaced under warranty. Gregg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Whedge Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Great install video Dan. My Edge has the headlights on all the time (Canadian DRL). Obviously connecting the white trigger wire to the headlight won't work in this situation. Also, some Edge's have the signal light on as DRL so the signal trigger wires will not work properly in this scenario. Is it possible to show modified wiring to accommodate these scenarios in your video as well? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWizard Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 You can simply connect the white trigger wire to the yellow/blue parking light wire at the turn signal socket. The parking lights are not on with the DRLs (whether they use the headlight or the turn signal) so the Edge 2 lights would dim with the headlights but not with the DRLs. The only difference is that the Edge 2 lights would also dim if you select 'P' on the headlight switch to manually activate just the parking lights without the headlights. Even that isn't much of a difference since any use of parking lights or headlights would normally be after dark so dimmer Edge 2 lights makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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