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What product did you use, and how hard was it to install?

 

The cellphone captures the pictures with too much glare. I did the same mod on my old Audi, they look like diamond studs and matched my HID head lamps and fogs @ 1000k

 

They sell them at AutoZone. very easy to install, they have an 3M adhesive on one side and and all you have to do is wedge the flexible 12" strip between the headlight and the bumper.I usually tap them into the blinker wiring so they blink when I use the turn signal or you can just wire them constant. They lasted 4 years on my audi.

 

led1.jpg

led2.jpg

led3.jpg

led4.jpg

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The cellphone captures the pictures with too much glare. I did the same mod on my old Audi, they look like diamond studs and matched my HID head lamps and fogs @ 1000k

 

 

Please clarify the color temperature... 1000K would be orange bordering on red and if you meant 10000K that would be blue bordering on violet but they don't look like either of those in the photos. Factory HIDs are around 4200K but very few aftermarket lighting products are that color. They're usually 5000K or 6000K (LEDs especially).

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I just bought my 2011 Edge Sport, I usually drive in the day with the parking lights because I like the look of the yellow indicators and white bumper markers. But I love these Bright-Lites Leds with turn signal built in.

 

My question would be, how bright are the LED's?

 

Edited; look at those china ones on ebay, and found this picture on brightlites site, I am sold. ;p

 

FrontViewFinal.jpg

 

-- scratch that, better question is, what HID lamp will match these LEDS? 6000K 8000K 10000K?

 

Thanks in advance for you input. .

 

They really look nice on your ride

 

ED

 

 

As far as Dan's DRL's, I ordered the combo kit of the DRL's and HID lights. They sent me 6000K HID's which I am not thrilled with. I wanted 5000K but I guess when you buy the combo, they just send the 6000K's. From what I read, the original versions were closer to 5000K and the new version is closer to 6000K so it makes sense seeing they sent me 6000K HID's.

Edited by chipworkz
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Please clarify the color temperature... 1000K would be orange bordering on red and if you meant 10000K that would be blue bordering on violet but they don't look like either of those in the photos. Factory HIDs are around 4200K but very few aftermarket lighting products are that color. They're usually 5000K or 6000K (LEDs especially).

Correction they were 10000K White Blueish I got them from DDMTUNING Since they always has the 10000K HIDs in the same tone, I tried the 12000K but to violet/purp didn't like.

 

Have a great new year

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As far as Dan's DRL's, I ordered the combo kit of the DRL's and HID lights. They sent me 6000K HID's which I am not thrilled with. I wanted 5000K but I guess when you but the combo, they just send the 6000K's. From what I read, the original versions were closer to 5000K and the new version is closer to 6000K so it makes sense seeing they sent me 6000K HID's.

The LED strips are about 8000K or a bit less, pure white with a hint of blue. I am ordering the BRIGHTlITE HID AND DLR with Turn Signal. I am very picky about the how the car looks as far headlights, I like them to be uniform, and if the LED strips I added don't blend well, I'll remove them, but I think they will Match up well Can't wait to get my hands on that BRIGHT LITE COMBO, I already changed all my dome lights with bright white LEDS

 

Anything beats the stock lamps, I can't even find the silver sylvania brighter output near HID xeon lamps for our headlights. SilverStar® ULTRA or SilverStar® zXe

 

BE SAFE

Edited by NexusFFO
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I just put my DRL's in this afternoon and they are definitely towards the 6000K range. They match my switchback bulbs really well when looking at them straight on. From inside the car, the DRL's are a bit bluer though. My personal preference would be for them to not be as blue as they are.

 

As far as the install of the DRL's go, it wasn't bad. I chose not to have them dim with the headlights on since they are not that bright to need to. My switchback bulbs are a bit brighter and I have never had an issue with those being on at night. Since I have the load resistors near the fuse box for my switchback bulbs, I was able to tie in to the turn signals there at the fuse box instead of down near the bulbs.

 

As far as the connection at the fuse box, Dan says to use fuse 90, 91 or 92.

F90 = Powertrain Control Module (PCM), / Transmission Control Module (TCM)

F91 = Cruise-Control Module (C-CM) - 3.5L/3.7L TIVCT or Temperature control valve, transmission fluid warmer - 2.0L GTDI

F92 = Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) module

 

I didn't want to mess with any of those so I used fuse position 89. In my case this is an empty spot so I am still using the tap but it is not sharing with any other circuit. It also works out perfectly to be able to tuck the wire down into crevices of the fuse box. Take a look when you go to do yours and you will see what I am talking about. I may take some pictures tomorrow as well.

FYI F89 = Headlamp, left - with adaptive headlamps

 

They are much brighter than the factory units and since you are playing with 10000K and 12000K lights you probably won't think they are to blue. I am a bit disappointed myself in the color and wish they were more around the 5000K range. The integrated turn signal is really nice and reacts slightly faster than my switchback bulbs do.

 

Ok I went and took a few pictures real quick. Like most pictures people post of lights, they aren't accurate completely to what they look like in person. The light is actually more blue in person that what these picture show.

 

DRL's only, they create the weird vertical shadows you see.

DRL%20Only.jpg

 

DRL's and Switchbacks. Notice the Switchbacks wash out the shadows some.

DRL%20and%20Switchback.jpg

 

With stock headlights on as well. Now you can see the blue glow around the the garage door more accurately.

All%20Lights.jpg

 

DRL's and Switchbacks.

DRL%20and%20Switchback%202.jpg

 

With stock headlights.

All%20Lights%202.jpg

 

View out the front. Notice the slight blue glow outside the headlight beams.

Street%20View.jpg

Edited by chipworkz
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The LED strips are about 8000K or a bit less, pure white with a hint of blue. I am ordering the BRIGHTlITE HID AND DLR with Turn Signal. I am very picky about the how the car looks as far headlights, I like them to be uniform, and if the LED strips I added don't blend well, I'll remove them, but I think they will Match up well Can't wait to get my hands on that BRIGHT LITE COMBO, I already changed all my dome lights with bright white LEDS

 

 

It would appear that you value appearance over effective lighting - that's fine as long as you understand what you're getting. The Edge2 DRL kits are 6000K (cool white) which is white with some blue. 5000K is generally considered pure white while 4100K-4300K is used for factory HIDs because it has been found to be the most effective at providing illumination of the road in front. 10000K is blue with some white and 12000K is mostly violet.

 

Higher temperature represents only the color and is certainly not an indication of lighting effectiveness. In fact, it's quite the opposite... once you get much above 8000K you lose so much effective light that you might as well have stayed with halogen bulbs. Sure they look very bright but that is because your eyes interpret the glare of the blue light as brightness. They don't actually light up objects down the road very well at all. Not to mention they look like they would be on some kid's ricer car with a fart cannon muffler.

 

Higher temperature HID capsules won't last as long either. HID capsules never actually burn out (if properly handled) but they eventually shift upwards in color temperature to the point where they no longer provide useful light. Over-driven capsules have even shorter lives and also tend to wash out in color... a 6000K 55W kit will look much like a 5000K 35W kit (or a 10000K 55W kit will look like an 8000K 35W kit - not as blue).

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It would appear that you value appearance over effective lighting - that's fine as long as you understand what you're getting. The Edge2 DRL kits are 6000K (cool white) which is white with some blue. 5000K is generally considered pure white while 4100K-4300K is used for factory HIDs because it has been found to be the most effective at providing illumination of the road in front. 10000K is blue with some white and 12000K is mostly violet.

 

Higher temperature represents only the color and is certainly not an indication of lighting effectiveness. In fact, it's quite the opposite... once you get much above 8000K you lose so much effective light that you might as well have stayed with halogen bulbs. Sure they look very bright but that is because your eyes interpret the glare of the blue light as brightness. They don't actually light up objects down the road very well at all. Not to mention they look like they would be on some kid's ricer car with a fart cannon muffler.

 

Higher temperature HID capsules won't last as long either. HID capsules never actually burn out (if properly handled) but they eventually shift upwards in color temperature to the point where they no longer provide useful light. Over-driven capsules have even shorter lives and also tend to wash out in color... a 6000K 55W kit will look much like a 5000K 35W kit (or a 10000K 55W kit will look like an 8000K 35W kit - not as blue).

 

 

Funny thing Wiz, I am concert and club lighting specialist and tech. The industry has come from incandescent lamps to now a more LED lighting systems, RGB/W and the LED display boards. So I am familiar with the technologies and if you don't buy in batch lot quantities, the chances of lets say you once ordered RED diodes and a few months your order the same RED diodes. chances are they are NOT going to be the same RED in wavelength , this is the problem with buying china made semiconductors, since they make soo many they can't keep a uniform color tone as far as frequency goes.

 

But on the topic on hand, I agree with the 10000K 55w as I had in my audi, not too much blue and unlike these Pickup trucks guys that put HID's in seal beam housing just blasting the light on to oncoming traffic, our cars are focal beams so we get a sharp and efficient dispersion of the light output. The only issue I did have with the Audi, since they use cheap ABS plastic reflectors and lens, the HID's will melt the reflector and cause the plastic lens to become yellowish as if they were being burned. I hope the Edge headlamp is made with a better composite compound ....

 

You really seem to know a good deal about Luminous Flux, footcandles, Lumens measurements, Candela and all the formula's: Volts x Amps x Power Factor (PF) = Watts. tech stuff? Do you work for Phillips lol

 

Down where i live I travel a lot on a road called Krome Ave, it runs on the edge of the glades and the road way is DARK so, I am looking of optimal lighting along with a uniform spectrum for ascetics. I do Fire-marshal crowd control work as well, so the back of my edge will have a traffic warning bar white/red/green 3GEN 3w LEDs, bright them most country rescue car have. My audi had 2% limo tints and they were still very bright.

 

Here is a video of them, I am licensed to have them as I custom install them for under cover units,

http://youtu.be/qQ44LExwi6o

 

My audi was very HIGH TECH, 4 CH remote viewing DVR 3G, IR Blaster in front bumper for black out night driving as the front camera displayed on my Pioneer Avic head unit, Escort car with heads up display projected onto windshield, I was a fun car, I miss her.

 

​Real time Telemetry XYZ and google map gui http://youtu.be/ki8mN8OD5P8?list=UUP3m6oSy5ARPRBEUrFTzomw

DRV GUI http://youtu.be/yQc8MykYcPA of a really bad DUI

The DVR to PIoneer Avic live screen http://youtu.be/a18POasfiqM

 

And just your viewing , this was A DUI driver that drove 9 mile down the wrong side of the road with no lights on, clipped a few cars then turned into a residential area speeding still no light and on wrong side of road. So you will see me stop for a few seconds while I waiting for the go-head from the 911 dispatch to engage and tail him until back up units caught up to me, I had him stopped before they showed up with the use of a flash light. lol and he was butt naked drunk. the video is in a few parts, but worth the watch.

 

When I decided he was a danger to human life and got involved called dispatch and reported what was going on, I explained that I was a certified tactical instructor diver, they gave me the GO and the chase started http://youtu.be/9Pd5FYCQgnI and at the end, cops pulled up and thanked me you can leave. now

 

 

A funny bonus http://youtu.be/3BeIEhuxBiE

 

I am a modifier inventor, I love to create systems that interact with the cars I mod. So I can wait to start working on my edge. And no ricer whistle exhaust I keep my cars looking 100% stock looking as this ricer learned. LOL http://youtu.be/vhJIumo3Tk0 I let him think he had me, but once i got into 3rd, He went bye bye, then the second time he tried again, I didn't even give him the chance. :P: damn ricers

Edited by NexusFFO
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My first prototypes of CCTV telemetry integration with a pioneer avic head unit

 

http://youtu.be/VipWu1NFkZE

 

http://youtu.be/2FltB17j71s

 

http://youtu.be/keYPRMDV1XA Homestead speedway

 

http://youtu.be/cnz7llnm6Ws South Beach Miami Sunset

 

http://youtu.be/80T5CtCERV8 Homestead race track tailing a Z Corvette

 

Now I mod Drones http://youtu.be/ZRm87bNtaw8?list=UUP3m6oSy5ARPRBEUrFTzomw and fly them from moving cars lol you can never stop being creative.

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You really seem to know a good deal about Luminous Flux, footcandles, Lumens measurements, Candela and all the formula's: Volts x Amps x Power Factor (PF) = Watts. tech stuff? Do you work for Phillips lol

 

 

No, actually my daytime job is IT Director for a Shell Oil joint venture. But a friend and I formed a volunteer group many years ago that provides safety patrol for charity bicycle rides like the MS150 and since my experience is in general electronics (I finished college before the PC was invented... that explains the grey whiskers on my avatar) it seemed natural that I would be in charge of the lighting (including strobes) on our team's motorcycles and SUVs. I've probably done 100 or more LED and HID conversions over the years so I've seen what works and what doesn't. I've seen lighting technology make huge advances in just the past 15 years. LEDs have almost completely replaced flash tube type strobes and now they are being used for primary lighting such as headlights. And you're quite right - HIDs in halogen reflectors are very bad.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

"HIDs in halogen reflectors are very bad." -

 

 

Good to know I am not the only one against this. !! - The LED biz is always coming out with new and better products, keep up innovating !

Cheers - its all about getting the right frequency and wavelength - IM RND'ing FLIR now :doh: for a fordable level

Edited by NexusFFO
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I just put my DRL's in this afternoon and they are definitely towards the 6000K range. They match my switchback bulbs really well when looking at them straight on. From inside the car, the DRL's are a bit bluer though. My personal preference would be for them to not be as blue as they are.

 

As far as the install of the DRL's go, it wasn't bad. I chose not to have them dim with the headlights on since they are not that bright to need to. My switchback bulbs are a bit brighter and I have never had an issue with those being on at night. Since I have the load resistors near the fuse box for my switchback bulbs, I was able to tie in to the turn signals there at the fuse box instead of down near the bulbs.

 

As far as the connection at the fuse box, Dan says to use fuse 90, 91 or 92.

F90 = Powertrain Control Module (PCM), / Transmission Control Module (TCM)

F91 = Cruise-Control Module (C-CM) - 3.5L/3.7L TIVCT or Temperature control valve, transmission fluid warmer - 2.0L GTDI

F92 = Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) module"""""

 

 

"I LIKE YOUR OUTCOME, I THINK I WILL JUST STICK TO IT AS YOU HAVE SHOWN , I am not looking for the wow, more the clear visibility and uniform tones " Thanks. :worship:

 

 

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""No, actually my daytime job is IT Director for a Shell Oil joint venture. But a friend and I formed a volunteer group many years ago that provides safety patrol for charity bicycle rides like the MS150 and since my experience is in general electronics (I finished college before the PC was invented... that explains the grey whiskers on my avatar) it seemed natural that I would be in charge of the lighting (including strobes) on our team's motorcycles and SUVs. I've probably done 100 or more LED and HID conversions"

 

NEXUS:

 

" in my world of concert and night club lighting and engineering .... there is everyday improvements on the LED market . sadly we have to deal China. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eQmcX1YYII

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"HIDs in halogen reflectors are very bad." -

 

 

Good to know I am not the only one against this. !! - The LED biz is always coming out with new and better products, keep up innovating !

Cheers - its all about getting the right frequency and wavelength - IM RND'ing FLIR now :doh: for a fordable level

 

I do custom CCTV systems for high end clients. The FLIR CCTV cameras are now in the public market and price is dropping fast thanks to china. you can get a HEAT BLACK WHITE CAM for about 1200$ now

 

http://www.cctvoutlet.com/Cameras/Bullet_Cameras/Outdoor_Bullet_Cameras/thermal-imaging-camera-perimeter-surveillance-TM3.html

 

 

SPEC SHEET http://www.cctvoutlet.com/SPEC%20SHEETS/SPECTIC-TM3-052413.pdf

Edited by NexusFFO
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Man by the time I get home after working on computer scripts and coding on my 8 monitor multi-task server and come one here late at night to replay, it just all looks like binary LOL yea. I might of miss-posted under the wrong thread. In my delusional state of mind from staring at multi-GUI's a for 12 hours my bad, I will delete WiZ

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