briandye Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Looks like I should maybe go with a 70/30 mix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Is this the concentrated version (not the premixed 50/50)? You can mix it yourself to 70/30 with distilled water then add it to the degas bottle/reservoir. That would be the safe way without a tester handy. Those inexpensive testers are fine for ethylene glycol based coolant only, which this is. If you DO have a tester handy and know the strength of the coolant in the engine, then you can calculate your 70/30 more precisely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) This is not pre-dilluted. I do have one of those testers, Ill bring it along. Seems like i'm not gonna get even half of the coolant out with a simple petcock drain. This is going to happen in an apartment complex parking lot (Which i'm sure they frown upon, at least here in Michigan, most complexes don't allow working on vehicles) so id like to keep it as quick as possible. I doubt ill even have to drain much at all, since quite a bit came out of the reservoir when it overheated. (Thought it would help cool down quicker if I opened the cap, despite the warnings. None shot out or hit me, but it did overflow a bit. I was on my last nerve at 5am about to be late for work. Wasn't thinking clearly, lol) Would it hurt to just fill up with the pure Zerex and drive it home where I will actually be able to get down and dirty with it? I would like to be able to get as much coolant out as possible, even if that means multiple drains/refills. (Home is appx 20 minutes, 20 miles) 18 or so highway miles @ 70mph. Also, one more question - Is the thermostat I need a 180 degree model? IIRC, AutoZone listed a 180 degree and a 192(?) degree model. I read that the rubber O-Ring is reusable, should I replace it? Edited February 17, 2015 by briandye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 You COULD use the undiluted antifreeze, but I certainly CANNOT recommend it. If the ambient temp is above 10F, you may have luck with it not being turned to a frozen mass. For temporary use, since you are considering a flush, you can use tap water instead of distilled if you HAVE to, but dilute to 70/30 at home, go out there, put the 70/30 in. Good question about the TStat temp. It might be 190 because the manual lists part number 8575, and that matches up with Motorcraft RT1228/RT1172, which are 190 TStats. But I can't say for sure. As long as the O-ring looks good, reuse it. Just coat it with fresh clean coolant before reinstall. OEM Part numbers here: http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2009-ford-edge/thermostat-housing-related-parts.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ok just to be on the safe side I'll dillute it. I'll just do a rough estimate job and as soon as I get home and in my garage I'll drain it out and get the right levels. I'm completely confused about coolant though. I thought coolant was anti-freeze/lubricaion but water has a better cooling ability which is why you go half and half (or 70/30, 60/40 etc). Coolant alone would freeze up? Sorry if that sounds stupid, guess I've been wrong about it the whole time I've thought I knew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Oops forgot to mention, I double checked online at Autozone, they only list a 180 degree unit. It must've been a thread on here that I read someone stocked 2 different ones. AZ has a fail safe and duralast model, both being 180 degrees. Edited February 17, 2015 by briandye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) Coolant has better antifreeze property, protecting down to 10F or so at 100% concentration. Water freezes at 32F at 100% concentration. http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/antifreeze-faq.htm 180F TStat is fine if that is all you can find. Engine will run cooler if what's in there is a 190F. Let's see what you pull out ... The Failsafe sounds better as it locks in open position when overheating occurs. That's what you want. The Duralast may also do that, but doesn't say so on the website. Edited February 18, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 New thermostat in, coolant mix added...just started it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Water pump is shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Man, that sucks! Not cutting you any breaks, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Nope. And right now I'm so frustrated about it that im just laughing it off. I'm still blown away at such a stupid design. Know of any write ups or how-to's for this? I remember reading a thread where one or two members said they replaced their own. Gonna be a ridiculous amount of work I imagine but if I can spend $60 on the water pump, (im sure a tad bit of money on tools I'll need) Id rather go that route than spending $1000+ I just don't trust shops, never have and probably never will. So you know how you know the sound of your own car, once I had everything back on, and coolant added, I started it and there was just an odd whirling type noise coming from somewhere down near the serpentine belt. Only audible with the hood open really, but it's there. I'm gonna assume that's the water pump not doing its thing. It got to temp pretty quick idling with the heat off, and stayed in the middle, but when I turned the heat on it stayed ice cold. I drove it at 25mph down the road and back maybe 1/4 mile and sure enough by the time I got back to the lot, the temp gauge was almost all the way to the right. This time I remembered to check both hoses, the upper wasn't "rock hard" with pressure like it was that morning this happened, but the lower was also warm if that means anything. Top was pretty warm/hot, lower was warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Time to get yourself a service manual! It's a very worthwhile investment. Since the fans were running, the water pump sounds like the culprit. A flitting-type sound? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) Yeah the fans kicked on, the sound really wasn't anything out of the ordinary, but I've never heard it come from the engine before. (If that makes sense?) The best way I can think to describe it is when a pulley bearing is shot/going bad on an accessory pulley its kind of like a whirring/spinning sound? Wish I would have thought to get a video. Is there anything else it could possibly be? Its not the thermostat (obviously), I would assume the radiator isn't clogged because both coolant hoses were warm, and I would assume any frozen water would have thawed out having the vehicle running for a good 25-30 minutes. I would suspect frozen water to be the culprit if I hadn't driven it as far as I did that morning with it not overheating. I don't know if you saw the thread I made a while back, but I was having some odd smells every once in awhile when I had my heat on...could this be related? (I never really followed up with it because the smells just stopped. It only happened for a short period (if it even did) when I would drive no matter what setting I had it on or how long I drove. Edited February 18, 2015 by briandye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) Maybe the teeth on the cog/pulley are broken? I dunno ... As far as the smell, I don't believe it is related, since it is in-cabin only: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15716-heat-has-a-weird-smell/?do=findComment&comment=119651 Edited February 18, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 I just wondered if there was any other possible culprit in the system. Definitely the water pump then. Well unfortunately I'm gonna be making payments on a vehicle that won't even be on the road for probably at least another month. Really wanted to get a 2012+ Edge Sport later this year, but I can't do another edge after mines giving me problem after problem. I refuse to buy any vehicle that has an internal water pump now. A part that usually always goes bad sometime before the engine needs serious work or rebuilding, and they make it an internal, timing chain driven part. Still trying to wrap my head around that. Such a great looking/driving (well, when its drivable) vehicle too, what a bummer. Read some info on accessing the water pump, wasn't a how-to per say, but had a list of what all had to be removed to gain access. Nope, no, and another big fat nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Yeah, since the pump is driven by the timing chain, it makes it a difficult process to R/R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Found a friend of the family who has a barn and can do just about anything to a vehicle, and another friend of a friend with a tow truck, maybe this won't be so expensive now. We shall see... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Good luck, Brian! Check the timing chain/tensioner carefully while you are in there, might be worth replacing if you see slack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Thanks bud, I planned on having him do all that while he's in there. Are those simple with the stuff off, like a bolt on replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) Yes, if you mark all the positions prior to removal, like any other timing job. Once you have the cams locked down at top dead center, should be set. Let me look up the service manual for any specific gotchas. UPDATE: Two places you will need tools: Install the special tool Camshaft Alignment Tool 303-1248 onto the flats of the LH camshafts, same for RH. So you will need two of these. Compress the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and install a suitable lockpin to retain the tensioner in the collapsed position. Repeat for RH side. Edited February 19, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Found a free manual online: http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/edge_awd/v6-3.5l/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/water_pump/component_information/specifications/page_2271/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Awesome thanks for the link. I'm seeing that TSB where they say to fill with green coolant with bittering agent... ...That would explain why my edge had green coolant when I flushed it. Now I'm thinking that going with what I read-where it says the Edge takes the gold coolant, and then flushing/filling with gold coolant, probably caused this. This makes me even more irate about the whole situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Ummm I added coolant and I have heat right now! About to take it for a spin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Ummmm ... Good luck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briandye Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I think I had frozen water/low coolant combined. It's about 30 degrees today and on my day off decided to drive the girlfriends car down and just give it one more shot. Added more coolant mix and had heat! I naturally only grabbed one of the jugs, would I be safe throwing in some Prestone mix with any color? And then when I get home I'm getting as much of what I have out and a fresh Mix in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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