Adding a amp and Subwoofer

[AbRang]

I have a new 2014 Se Stock model. It has only 4 speakers one in each door (will be replacing soon). I wana keep the original head unit (for now) was wanting to know how other people have wired thier amps that don't have a factory sub in the back. I'm trying to figure out where I can locate the wires from the back doors maybe run them to a RCA converter and run my amp off that so I can hook up my aftermarket sub. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. Just trying to hook up a sub for now.

[fishx65]

I was gonna dig into mine this week but it's to dang cold even in the attached garage!!! I too am wondering where the best place is to grab the wires for a line out converter. I would really like to get at them behind the radio but I'm guessing it's much easier to get them in the front kick panels. I'm also gonna try a simple LOC and see what it sounds like before purchasing an Audio Control LC2i. My amps are old school so I also need to add one of my old electronic crossovers between the LOC and amp.

[- Aj -]

I have a new 2014 Se Stock model. It has only 4 speakers one in each door (will be replacing soon). I wana keep the original head unit (for now) was wanting to know how other people have wired thier amps that don't have a factory sub in the back. I'm trying to figure out where I can locate the wires from the back doors maybe run them to a RCA converter and run my amp off that so I can hook up my aftermarket sub. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. Just trying to hook up a sub for now.

 

Ever figure this out?

[N14020]

hey i just did this. I used 2 kicker 250 watt amps with 2 kicker 12's. i pulled the pillar covers off of the doors, between fron door and back door. theres a strand of wires, one side was brown and yellow and brown and white, the other side it was blue and i forgot the color to the back door speakers. I simply cut the wires in half so there was enough room to splice them to a rca convertor. i did that to each side, and ran the wire under the plastic molding to the cargo area....i ran my ground to the ground under that plastic on the drivers side to the factory grounded wire there to the cars body. put the plastic back on, and ran my power wire through that plastic boot thing behind the brake pedal which came out behind the battery (which you need to loosen and slide forward to get the power cable) i mounted a toggle switch to control the amp on and off under the dash with a 30 amp switchand ran that wire under the molding trim to the cargo area where the amps are. for the remote (blue) wire, since i had a switch this wasnt needed, so i ran a jumper from the power terminal on the amps to the remote wire terminal because the toggle switch acted as my remote wire...if you have questions let me know ill try to help, all in all its easy, it's also easy to pull the head unit to use the acc. wire on their if you want to run a remote wire, but id rather have a toggle switch so i have the option of no amp and subs sometimes...

[N14020]

also, i tell you what, there's very little rattle on the outside of the car, i got a license plate kit from autozone and it totally got rid of any rattle sound, and for only 500watts on the subs, it sounds real good in their, a sealed box in all i cant keep it up past 10 much because ov how hard it hits comapred to some cars that ive sat inhearing 1000watts edges sound way better then cars with more watts IMO

[Otan]

hey i just did this. I used 2 kicker 250 watt amps with 2 kicker 12's. i pulled the pillar covers off of the doors, between fron door and back door. theres a strand of wires, one side was brown and yellow and brown and white, the other side it was blue and i forgot the color to the back door speakers. I simply cut the wires in half so there was enough room to splice them to a rca convertor. i did that to each side, and ran the wire under the plastic molding to the cargo area....i ran my ground to the ground under that plastic on the drivers side to the factory grounded wire there to the cars body. put the plastic back on, and ran my power wire through that plastic boot thing behind the brake pedal which came out behind the battery (which you need to loosen and slide forward to get the power cable) i mounted a toggle switch to control the amp on and off under the dash with a 30 amp switchand ran that wire under the molding trim to the cargo area where the amps are. for the remote (blue) wire, since i had a switch this wasnt needed, so i ran a jumper from the power terminal on the amps to the remote wire terminal because the toggle switch acted as my remote wire...if you have questions let me know ill try to help, all in all its easy, it's also easy to pull the head unit to use the acc. wire on their if you want to run a remote wire, but id rather have a toggle switch so i have the option of no amp and subs sometimes...

 

Hi

 

I'm installing an amp for powering a sub woofer, there is any way to grab an ACC cable from somewhere?

 

I don't want to be throwing a switch every time i'm driving

 

 

2011 Ford Edge Limited

Edited July 8, 2015 by Otan

[Otan]

I found the answer to my own question, KICKER offers amplifier that TURN ON using the signal level through the RCA, that way you eliminate the need of a remote cable.

[dmozer74]

I have an '08 work a factory sub, but there is a remote line from the factory head unit I was able to tap into for my installation.

[Nitro75614]

 

u can get wire harness adapters to splice in the head harness to keep it clean so u just have power and switching to wire, it has pin-outs set to make auc jux right off the factory harness and the radio removal is super simple u can in stall it in 10 min

[edjunior]

Welcome to the forum Nitro.  I just wanted to let you know, you are responding to a thread that is 8 years old.  You have to look to see when these things are posted.  It's okay, but just wanted to let you know.