wally67 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Hi everybody I am having a problem with my wife's 2013 ford edge sel. The left rear brake is dragging/ not releasing I noticed this around 40,000 miles and put a new caliper on it and thought it was fixed but noticed it doing it again just the other day it now has close to 45,000 miles on it. I have cleaned all the slides where the pads ride( installed new pads the old ones were shot) and the pins that the caliper mount to and lubed them, checked the E-brake cable and it seems to be functioning correctly and have also put a new hose on it and the dang thing is still dragging I am running out of ideas on this thing. Could this be an ABS or master cylinder issue? The right rear is in perfect condition the pads still look good after driving it you can feel quite a bit more heat coming off the left rear than the right rear. Thanks for any help, Wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 If it was the E-brake it would not affect the caliper. Are the pins worn or bent? Did you replace the metal insert slides with new ones? Then last thing is I am not sure if the braking system is valved on the edge to two or four separate systems. In other words left rear and right front operate on the same system and then right rear and left front operate on the same system. The other option which I could not see being probable is each wheel braking system has its own individual line and valving. If it s the first choice then I would say if the opposite wheel caliper is not having an issue then you are back to the replacement caliper being bad or there is a binding issue with your right rear system (Rust needs to be cleaned and maybe even blasted off of the parts or replaced. The replacement thing is shade tree and turns into and expensive parts swapping nightmare. IF calipers are all equal swapping a working caliper to the other one might be a timely solution, but I would stick with working on the right rear and ensuring all areas move freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally67 Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 The metal slides were replaced with the new pads the slots in the caliper mount the slides snap into were scraped and wire wheeled and are clean ( I should of made that a little more clear in my original post) the pins looked great re-lubed them on assembly and caliper slides nicely on them no binding. I had the back of the vehicle jacked up and both rear tires off I can apply the brakes and let off the right side releases and you can spin the rotor by hand easily the left side will release somewhat but is still hard to turn by hand I tried this with the car off and with the engine running and still the same out come both sides will lock the rotor when the brake is applied. unfortunately the calipers are different from let to right. I didn't realize the that the valving could be in a diagonal set up (left rear and right front on the same valve) I just figured both back brakes would be on the same valve and both fronts on the same. I will check the right front and see if it is having any issues, I haven't noticed. Thanks for the help, Wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) The hydraulic control unit (HCU) is used as an electronic proportioning valve for electronic brake distribution (EBD). The HCU controls the brake fluid pressure to the rear brakes to help prevent them from applying before the front brakes. If the ABS is disabled due to DTCs being present in the module, the EBD will continue to function unless there is a complete failure of the HCU. When EBD is disabled, the ABS warning indicator also illuminates. A demo: I don't know if it is setup for diagonal control (on the Edge), which in older vehicles, ensures you still have braking stability should the valve fail. Usually the wheels with less traction (less weight on them) will have the fluid directed to them first, then when the braking overcomes the suspension on those wheels, the loaded wheels will get in on the action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitewater Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 I have the same problem on the same side on my 2012. New caliper, new rotors (esp calls for both sides) and new pads only lasted 12 miles before caliper seized again. I'm on day 5 of a rental so dealership can correctly diagnose and repair. Have you had any resolution to your brake problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 You mentioned the E brake cable but is the spring and adjuster set all the way back to a resting position and not blocked or hanging up preventing it from releasing completely? There are a lot of mechanics going on in the rear caliper now that ford has integrated the e brake into the caliper on the rear brakes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Being in Maine & those winters I am sure take a toll on anything under the car, especially the brakes. Heck, if there's a light layer of rust on them in the morning if humidity is even a little high, imagine what happens when it's snowpacked & salty out there! Check & clean everything: rotors, pads, calipers, slide pins, EBrake cables, brake hoses, etc. at least once a year after winter is over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Not sure how much this affects the rear brakes but make sure the little "nipples" on the pads are seated correctly into the caliper piston as this has to be done correctly in order for the caliper piston to adjust to the emergency brake system. The caliper pistons have slots for the brake pad "nipple" to seat into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclellan83 Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I have the same problem, but thought it was both rear at times. Had it to the dealer and they blamed age of my pads making them crumble which I said was from heat. To me is was not right that rear pads needed replaced before the front but wanted to work with the dealer. Now after the replacement it has done it twice, they act like I'm crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tormsby Posted October 14, 2015 Report Share Posted October 14, 2015 i am having the same issue. Both sides, not usually at the same time, getting really hot. Replaced and cleaned rotor and pads on the right rear and it only took about a week or so and it got really hot. the left rear was in great shape, looked like new at the time i replaced the right. so i left it alone. this last weekend the left rear started getting really hot and the right rear is fine. it is maddening to say the least. i have done many, many brake jobs and i can only chalk this up to somehting within the code that runs the EBD for this vehicle. The emergency brake works fine also, hasn't needed any adjusting. The front brakes work great and wear really nice. if anyone finds any solution, please POST!!! Thanks Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrgrouper Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I had the same issue with the rear brakes of my 2012 Edge. There are two problem areas; the pins the caliper slides on can sieze if not regularly cleaned and lubricated and, rust can form on the caliper bracket underneath the pad anti-rattle clips. When rust forms it moves the clip reducing the space available for the brake pads to move. The pads need to move freely in the caliper bracket. Address these two issues with proper cleaning, grease and anti-sieze compound and your overheating brake problem should go away. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 I would also recommend removing the brackets and blasting them rather than wire brushing to ensure a good clean surface that would then be coated with brake grease to slow the rusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tormsby Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 I appreciate the advice and taking time to reply. Why would the completely new right rear drag and heat up with all new componenets? new metal slides were installed on the capliper braket with the pads, I ensured the pads could move as needed, no binding. The slider pins were cleaned and regreased before putting them back in. The caliper piston turned without issue to recede back into the caliper. As I mentioned the left rear was operating fine, with great pad wear, now it is dragging and heating up, not the right side. At the same time I replaced the right side, I pulled the pads on the left rear, made sure slider pins were good, everything was ok before putting everything back. This is massively frustrating compared to any other car i've owned. The brake mechanicals are the same components that have been around forever, why would it do this? The EBD electronic brakeforce distrubution system seems to me to be more of the culprit in this situtaion, but I can find very little information about it. It has the word "electronic" right in the acronym, so right away it makes me suspicious...i'm only 43 and already sounding like a old fart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted October 19, 2015 Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 Just a thought and not sure if this would cause an issue but double check the following: 1) Pistons were screwed back all the way on the calipers 2) Brake pad nipples are seated properly in the piston groves/notches 3) Emergency brake system is properly adjusted and in the resting position and not engaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tormsby Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Yep, everything you stated, I have done. I am also noticing an odd noise coming from the rear end(drivers side) after I stop. You think its the brake making noise as you stop, but the sound keeps going after you have fully stopped. This is very aggrevating to say the least. I have taken apart and put them back together several times, thinking its good to go, only to find out it is still happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 What is the sound like? Whoosh? Hoot? Whine? Grind? Are the "silencers" on the calipers still good2go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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