'09 Edge SEL dashboard/console lighting

[JPDR]

Hello there.

 

I'm a (proud) owner of 2009 Ford Edge SEL AWD with a couple of optionals (Sync with Navigation, digital A/C controls, etc.), recently purchased from a Ford dealer here in southern Brazil with about 37K mi. It's my 3rd Ford vehicle in a row, and I must say it's a really nice car. However, I've noticed a couple of odd things over the past few months, all regarding interior lighting.

 

1. My PRNDL letters do not light up, not even with the dimmer switch cranked to the max. I found and old topic discussing this (http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/1056-does-prndl-panel-light-when-instrument-panel-lights-are-activated/), but with rather inconclusive results. Is this feature available at all, or maybe restricted to Limited / MKX models?

 

2. My headlamp control switch also doesn't have a backlight. The only thing I see is the orange light indicator (on top of the switch itself) when I turn on the foglights. Is this a problem?

 

3. The steering wheel controls and some central console buttons (Info, Setup, Reset, parking lights) are also lacking backlight. The ESC and passenger airbag lights are OK, so are the A/C and heated seats control lights.

 

It's important to say I've double-checked all indicated and even marginally related fuses.

Now, none of these is a terrible issue. I know I could simply ignore it all and enjoy the drive. But one of the reasons I bought an Edge it's because it has this "affordable-yet-hi-tech" aura to it - and these little lighting details are definitely part of the experience.

Sorry to bother you guys with questions about an already old vehicle, specially when the all-new model is around. It's just that none of my friends/acquaintances own an Edge, and stopping a random person mid-traffic to ask these questions is not an option. The dealership is also not a good source of information on this car because it's an import. 90% of their prep and day-to-day time is spent selling and repairing locally made Fords.

 

Thanks a lot, and happy Edge driving to everyone!

 

John Pastorini

Edited August 26, 2015 by JPDR

[enigma-2]

All instrument lighting is powered by the F10 fuse (15 a) in the smart junction box (near drivers feet).

 

Assuming the fuse is good, (as most other instrument lightng "is" working), I would try eliminate where the failure is occurring (localized or global). I would recommend the following troubleshooting procedure (note that this is not in the service manual, I'm making it up as I go along :-)

 

As I see it, the simplest test is to pull the headlight switch and test terminal #5 for voltage when headlamps are on (terminal #5 is where the feed for the headlamp switch instrument lighting is powered from).

 

GLOBAL failure.

If voltage is NOT present on terminal #5, follow the violet with gray stripe wire back to the S209 connector - and that would be the only possible common denominator common to the failures you described (assuming that the other lamp switches, such as HVAC, tailgate, etc. ARE operating). Connector S209 is in the main harness tucked up inside the instrument panel. All of the various instrument lamps are fed from this point. Normally, it would be unusual for a connection to fail, however in a hot, humid region, connector S209 could become corroded on just a few terminals and cause these problems.

 

LOCALIZED failures.

If voltage IS present, power is getting into the switch (and probably everywhere else) and you can assume that the headlamp switch LED is defective and probably all of the other failures are also localized (and unrelated). Power to terminal #5 of the headlight switch indicates the problem in the LED in the switch and the entire switch would need replacing. (Power for the fog lamp indicator comes in on terminal #7 on the headlight switch, passes through the fog light switch and out on terminal #6 of the switch. Totally separate, unrelated circuit).

 

For the floor shifter, pull the cover and verify the the bulb is good. According to the service manual, Ford uses an incandescent bulb for this function, and it's possible that it has burned out. (All of the others use LEDs.)

 

The steering wheel switches are all tied together. They are also fed from at connector S209 in the main harness and come up the column through the clockspring. Most likely the failure is in the clockspring behind the steering wheel, but that's only a guess.

 

All of the wires feeding power to the instrument lighting in the various switches are colored violet with gray stripe.

 

Good luck,

Dennis

[JPDR]

Thanks, enigma-2! Will follow your instructions ASAP and report back.

[JPDR]

As it turns, the #10 fuse at the lower driver's fuse box was really blown. However, simply replacing it didn't do the job: the new 15A fuse is OK (therefore, apparently, no permanent short circuit is present), but the lights didn't turn on. I have noticed my puddle lamps are also not working.

Checking on the #10 fuse connector pins with a multimeter I found 12V and 5/6V. Shouldn't this be 12V-zero? Or is it just because the door was open?

The horn and the steering controls themselves are working perfectly, just without proper lighting. Doesn't this reduce the chance of a clockspring issue?

Will follow the wiring to the main harness, or maybe find a way to bypass it (like keeping these lights on all the time). Also, I'll try to find a downloadable wiring diagram, since the 2009 ones are nowhere to be found here (the dealers neither have these in stock nor import them anymore).

 

Will keep the work and let you know of any advances. Once again, thanks a lot for your very detailed information!

 

John Pastorini

Edited August 29, 2015 by JPDR

[enigma-2]

As it turns, the #10 fuse at the lower driver's fuse box was really blown. However, simply replacing it didn't do the job: the new 15A fuse is OK (therefore, apparently, no permanent short circuit is present), but the lights didn't turn on. I have noticed my puddle lamps are also not working.

Checking on the #10 fuse connector pins with a multimeter I found 12V and 5/6V. Shouldn't this be 12V-zero? Or is it just because the door was open?

The horn and the steering controls themselves are working perfectly, just without proper lighting. Doesn't this reduce the chance of a clockspring issue?

Will follow the wiring to the main harness, or maybe find a way to bypass it (like keeping these lights on all the time). Also, I'll try to find a downloadable wiring diagram, since the 2009 ones are nowhere to be found here (the dealers neither have these in stock nor import them anymore).

 

Will keep the work and let you know of any advances. Once again, thanks a lot for your very detailed information!

 

John Pastorini

 

That helps a little. The puddle lights are also fed from the same fuse. As the furse was bad but now good and you still are having problems, I'm beginning to suspect the smart junction box as the culprit. (Problem is, not everything fed from fuse #10 was reported as being non-working).

 

I'll attach copies of the wiring diagrams. Perhaps that will help.

 

Puddle lighting.pdf

 

Interior lighting(1).pdf

 

Interior lighting(2).pdf

[enigma-2]

If the (good) fuse was in the fuse holder, I would expect to see 12v on both sides. If you measured with the fuse out, yes, I would expect to see 12 volts on the power side & 0 volts on the load side.

 

If you measured with the fuse in and getting 12v on one side and 6v on the other, you have a fairly large voltage drop across the fuse. (Try a different fuse). If you got these readings with the fuse out, have no idea where the 6v feedback is coming from.

 

Look over the wiring diagrams and see if you have lights on the other instruments and switches. If you don't, it can be isolated to a power supply problem (blown fuse, short, defective smart J-box or dimmer switch failure, etc). {To test, you could pull fuse (isolate circuit) and jumper a wire from another known good supply to the load side of where the fuse connected and see it the lights work. If they do, it isolates it to the smart junction box.}

 

If you are only getting lighting failures on certain switches, etc. then the power is (probably) good and it's a question of where the common point of the supply is failing. (I suspected connection point S209 as the common point - see schematics).

 

Because you added the puddle lights, they run directly from the smart J-box (fuse box) and no where else (parallel to the rest of the lights). Therefore I suspect the smart junction box (but only of all instrument the lighting is out).

[Jimmyd02]

If I replace the smart j-box do I need to do any programming or is it a plug and play type part?

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

The dealer will need to download the as-built data (specific to your Edge) into the new SJB before it will work properly.

[Jimmyd02]

Can you purchase replacement S209 connectors? I am having a hard time locating one.

[JPDR]

Well, it's been a long time since I originally opened this thread - but today I finally had a holiday, and enough spare time to give this issue proper attention - with the invaluable help of my father. I definietly owe you guys a feedback, even if not a perfect one.

First, I rechecked the fuses and the SJB, to no effect. In my third attempt, I decided to open the center console and check the PRNDL light itself (erroneously indicated as an incandescent bulb on the electrical diagrams, but in fact an LED with a whiteish plastic cap), which proved to be working, according to the multimeter readings. So I tracked this LED's wires (black = negative; blue = positive) to the C3245 connector, unplugged and tested them there. There was no current coming to the LED. Using an adjustable external generator, I fed the circuit with very low current/voltage, and slowly build it up to 250 mAh/2V. Through the process, I saw lights starting to shine very dimly. At the final setting, most of the previously non-working lights on my Edge were at full brightness - except the Cruise Control keys, on the left side of the steering wheel, and the puddle lamps (being old bulbs, I suspect they may very well be blown, and already bought OEM replacements).

I finished the process by jump-wiring the positive blue and brown wires inside the dashboard, safeguarding this new circuit with a 4A fuse. Now certain lighting elements (the audio controls on the right side of the steering wheel, the headlamp switch and the Info/Setup/Reset buttons) are continuously on, when my car is on. Certainly a downturn but, to be honest, not one that bothers me nearly as much as having a pitch-black PRNDL on a dark parking lot.

The fact that only a couple of lights didn't turn on hints that the problem wasn't caused by a catastrophic failure (no huge short-circuits or widespread corrosion here), and that the cause is probably located somewhere in the "lower" parts of the lighting circuit, just after the SJB.

What I did qualifies, at most, as a simple quick fix and, though I tested it on all possible settings, I am not sure about its long-term effects. Plus, I've "fixed" only about 80% of the problem. Being so, I advise caution (and good luck) to anyone following my steps.

So far, I'd rate my issue as partially resolved. As soon as I get more free time, I'll check the remaining issues and post my findings here.

 

I'd like to thank the community, particularly enigma-2 (does your nickname has something to do with the German 90's New Wave musical project, by the way?), for the prompt support and precise responses to my previous postings. This forum is certainly THE source for everything about our beloved Edges!

 

Happy Easter.

 

John Pastorini

Edited March 26, 2016 by JPDR

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

enigma probably more of a reference to the WWII German code, but I too am curious!

[enigma-2]

Relates to being a Marine in Vietnam and a certain series of spiritual experiences that occured in May, 1970.