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Rough running, P0305, and swelled/burst/overheating coil over plug


jbswear

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Hi, folks, I'm hoping you can help me diagnose and fix a problem.

 

2007 Edge SEL, 185k miles

 

Chain of events:

 

Tuesday morning, 1.5 miles into my morning commute, engine starts running rough, CEL comes on, flashing.

Pull over, retrieve the car later that day. Still running rough, CEL flashing if I push it.

 

Limped it over to Advance Auto (one mile away), OBD reads P0305, cylinder #5 misfiring.

 

Limped it home (1.5 miles). Allowed it to cool, pulled the #5 coil off. No noticeable damage.

 

Ordered new coils/plugs.

 

Wednesday:

 

Coils/plugs arrive. I go to change the coils. Replaced #5. Still runs rough. Pull #5 coil AND #6 coil. This is after running for only 10 seconds or so. #6 coil smells of burning electrics, is warped, cracked, and looking like it's ready to burst. I have no clue how long it's been like this. Oddly enough, the OBD reading did NOT show a code for cylinder #6.

 

Thursday:

 

Pull the intake off the engine to replace all plugs/coils. Find that the gaps on the plugs is worn to nearly .090. New plugs installed with anti-seize. New coils inserted. (All six)

 

While installing the coils/plugs, I had the ignition on and was listening to the car's radio. Battery is about 18 months old. I started on the back bank and worked forward, just finger tightening the bolts holding the coils in. I installed #6 and then moved onto #5. I then started torquing the bolts down, and when I got to #6, it was HOT. And I smelled burning electrics again. Then I noticed my radio was off.

 

It appears the battery was drained by the coil?

 

I pulled #6 coil out to allow it to cool. I pulled #5 coil and plugged it into #6's connector. Ignition off. Coil stayed cool. I turned the ignition on, and with the coil plugged in, but not in the engine; I held it. It quickly became hot, so I turned the ignition off, only to find that the battery has now drained so much that not even the battery warning light is on.

 

I haven't checked the voltage to each coil or the resistance on each coil; I ran out of daylight. I'm pretty sure the voltage should read 12V. What should the resistance read?

 

I'm mechanically inclined. I've changed a clutch in a Focus SVT, I rebuilt a Harley Shovelhead engine and transmission, and built a bike from scratch with that power train. Is this something I'll be able to fix with basic tools or is it time to take it to the dealership?

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Thanks, folks.

 

This has been a great car for my family; we bought it in '10 with 64k miles. We drive it to Florida from Maryland at least once a year, often more. I drive it in the DC area for Uber and Lyft; my passengers love it.

 

The only other real failures were the alternator (spring '15) and a ball joint (summer '15). My sway bar ends are shot and will be replaced (by me) once this problem is fixed.

 

I just need to keep her running until December of 2017!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update:

 

Being an idiot, I didn't change the spark plugs as I should have. The gap widened, killing coil #6. This killed the PCM. I went to the site above, got a replacement, and it's running again.

 

And then I got a new code today, 0430, cat problem. I reset it with a reader and it hasn't come back on (came on cold, hasn't shown since warning up). I'll try to replace the O2 sensors if it comes back on.

 

It's time to sell this car.

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