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AC blower problem


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Hello all new to forum.

 

My sister has a 2007 Ford Edge. Trying to help her with the car shes financially in hard times now. A year after getting the car the ac blower motor went out. So she bought a replacement from an auto parts store. Every couple of months it would happened again so she would return it to get a new one. Well no matter how many times it was replaced it would randomly stop blowing or would be very low. She went to dealership and bought one and seemed to work longer but eventually it shut off. I had been googling and youtubing this problem. I replaced the connector, the resistor and was still shutting off. She then took it to a mechanic and told him what was done so he check voltage and the relays everything was good and said that since the motor, the connector and the resistor were replaced that the only thing was the climate control module that was the problem. She ordered one from ebay cause the dealership do not sell that part. She gets the control module i replaced it for her and well the problem persist. The blower replaced many times, the connector replaced, the resistor replaced and now the ac control module replaced. Anyone know what else i can check for? Maybe the wiring from the relay to ac control module? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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Yes I checked for water and it’s not blocked. All fuses and relays good. I’ve also tested all the blower motors straight to battery and they all run full blast. When connected back in place then turn on ac and adjust speed it will run at about 2 then slow down very low and then stop I tap motor and will pick up speed and then stop. I remove to make sure it isn’t blown connect straight to battery again and it runs perfectly fine. I’m out of ideas.

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when a resistor isn't working properly, the blower motor defaults to 4/high speed, basically what you saw with it connected directly to battery. 

 

but you said when reconnected, the motor responds to tapping?  i don't see why it would do that if the motor is not faulty.

 

are both the blower and resistor new or did you purchase them used?  ford/motorcraft brand or something else?  just to satisfy my curiousity :)

 

test the blower motor switch for continuity if you have not already.

2010 Edge Blower Motor Blower Resistor tests.jpg

2010 Edge Blower Motor Inoperative or Does Not Work Correctly EMTC and DATC.pdf

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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One of the blowers is from auto parts store not from Ford/motorcraft the other 2 are motorcraft one is the original she had first the other is from Ford. Yes they all still work when test connected straight to battery. As for the resistor I think it’s aftermarket not Ford.

 

even when I have the blower connected under dash but isn’t screwed in place it runs like a 3 then I put it back in place and it starts up again for awhile then go back down to 1 then stops.

 

I have not tested those parts. Whenever my sister has time I will test. As of now we’re getting prepared for Marco ? and get back results later. Thanks 

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Did you check the condition of the cabin air filter?

 

A clogged filter may restrict air flow resulting in the resistor pack (and motor) to overheat.

Basically located behind the glove box.

 

Empty the glovebox, remove the tensioner cable, cock glovebox sideways and wiggle out.

 

There is a small (approx 1-1/2"x11") that unclips on the left hand side. The filter just slides out. (Note that if it's really dirty, to take precaution (some newspaper) to catch the dirt that always seems to fall off.

Edited by enigma-2
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  • 3 weeks later...

After all the cleaning and such everything is all good. For the ac so i checked the blower motor resistance good and checked blower motor switch for continuity and it was bad. Switched it out for new switch and voila working perfect. After replacing several blower motors even with one from the dealership and also replacing the connector, the resistor and the ac heat control module still same problem the switch was the problem all the time.

 

Yes that was the first thing i checked with the cabin filter. All is good now. Thanks everyone appreciate it very much.

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  • 1004ron changed the title to AC blower problem
  • 1 year later...
On 9/15/2020 at 8:51 PM, Serg said:

After all the cleaning and such everything is all good. For the ac so i checked the blower motor resistance good and checked blower motor switch for continuity and it was bad. Switched it out for new switch and voila working perfect. After replacing several blower motors even with one from the dealership and also replacing the connector, the resistor and the ac heat control module still same problem the switch was the problem all the time.

 

Yes that was the first thing i checked with the cabin filter. All is good now. Thanks everyone appreciate it very much.

 

Blower motor switch, you say? After wasting my time with replacing the APIM, I think I have my next guess...

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  • 2 months later...

From another post, but this is how I fixed my wonkey hvac issues:

 

 

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED!! (thanks to a few regulars here who seem to find the time to contribute to EVERYthing)

I went to a scrap yard that had a handful of 1st gen Edges in their yard last week, and managed to grab 4 different HVAC modules (along with some replacement rear parking sensors) for $75. Picture 3 is of the faulty original unit that was replaced with one of a different part #, but luckily fully compatible with all the options in my Limited (ambient lighting, automatic hvac control, dual climate control, heated seats, etc).  *Note in picture 4 that 2 of the modules I retrieved were missing a receptacle.  This was likely due to those vehicles not being equipped with certain options (heated seats? ambient lighting?)* 
After having the opportunity to tear into the scrap yard vehicles without any regard for their well-being, I devised myself a plan to easily replace the module.  The first step of the process was to remove the side access panel to the dash/door vent.  After opening that up, as you can see in the pic below, I used an angle grinder to cut a little access hole in the "blank" of the dash piece that lays UNDER the removeable kick panel.  From these two access points, I was able to remove the plastic push-rivet that holds the vent tube to the module frame/mount; and then remove the upper portion of the vent tube entirely.   After that, it's a matter of one retaining screw, and then unplugging the connectors from the module to drop it out and swap.  With everything back together, you'd have no clue I was ever in there.  Now the fan, lighting, etc... everything... works perfectly.  No programming needed, either! 

 

 

 

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