Owning a 2011 MKX since new: Crazy signal light failures and other stories

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Been many a year since I last posted here but I still own my 2011 MKX Limited. It has about 183k kilometres. It's primarily my wife's daily driver but a recent upgrade I made from MFT to Sync 3 has reinvigorated me to try and spruce up the rest of the vehicle. Some of the adventures we've had...

 

Often it doesn't start. That is to say pushing the start/stop button often elicits only a click. Over and over and over. Sometimes waiting a few extra seconds or using the fob lock/unlock or pressing the brake pedal for a long time seems to help. Otherwise you've just got to be patient. New fob batteries make no difference and the dealer has no clue how to fix it. Other times it starts just fine many times in a row. It's really just an annoyance but I wouldn't recommend it as a getaway vehicle. One keyfob refuses to function in any conventional way but still works to start the vehicle if placed in the secret pocket.

 

Things gone wrong include failure of the adjustable up/down in/out steering wheel: it makes the proper sounds but it ain't ever gonna move. Dealer wants over $1000 to fix that one but since it doesn't really bother us, that's not going to be fixed. The rear-view camera hasn't worked consistently (or at all) in years but I've got a replacement camera on order from Amazon and with the help of a excellent Youtube video showing the whole procedure done on a 2011 Edge, it shouldn't be hard to replace. I should have done that a long time ago but the dealership's quote of $1200 put me off. Both rear taillights are cracked for no known reason, I intend to get replacements from a wrecker some day. Come to think of it, the dealer also wants over a grand for those pieces of plastic.

 

Like many others, the brake booster failed and was replaced last year. Other than paying about a hundred dollars for an independent mechanic to diagnose it, Ford covered the replacement cost under their extended warranty, Lucked out there because I had totally forgotten about that letter Ford sent me about the issue maybe 8 years ago...

 

The APIM (Sync 2) module has been gradually failing for many years. To the point where there was no screen display at all for almost a month. Which was what finally motivated me to replace the whole rotting system with a Sync 3 replacement kit. Very pleased with how that worked out. But now I notice there's apparently an outstanding recall for that Sync 2 APIM module, something my dealer never mentioned in the many times the vehicle been in the shop. Maybe they'll just give me one, no install required. Also an outstanding recall on the door latch which I've never had an issue with.

 

The Power Transfer Unit is suspect. Last year for apparently the first time, the quick oil change place I always use checked the oil level in it - and there wasn't any. No apparent leakage, just no oil that they could detect. A mechanic told me that isn't all that unusual because at high temperatures, oil in such a small reservoir can essentially evaporate over time. So much for Ford's magic lifetime fluid. I'll be getting the PTU fluid changed soon along with coolant, transmission, rear differential and brake fluid (or would that brake booster replacement have already accomplished that?). The 3.7l engine has started to use a bit of oil, getting close to the add oil level between oil changes.

 

And that crazy signal light failure? At LEAST 9 replacements of the driver-side front bulb over the years. I note the dealership supplies a different model bulb than what is specified in the manual, but that particular bulb doesn't seem to be available anymore. I also note that those bulbs get real hot real fast so maybe it's normal to have to replace them often? Only a couple of replacements of the passenger side bulb which is fortunate because I find it impossible to get that one fully back in the light socket. My improvised duct tape retention device has held up better than expected though.Is there some tool to aid removal/replacement??

 

 

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Re: signal lights. If gut instinct is your dealer is using cheap, Chineese bulbs. There is a difference. I drive a 2009 MKX and replaced the drivers turn signal bulb 1 time. It wasn't burn out, just precaution. That was back in 2014 or 2015. If your dealer "is" using American bulbs, I'd guess you have a defective socket.

 

I'd recommend an immediate PTU fill as it's critical, but it's probably already too late. The damage is done. In any case, the sooner the better.

I don't think the fluid evaporates, it turns to goo and you get no lubrication. Plan on a replacment in the future. About $1200 US.

 

Dealer is NOT going to give you a new APIM. You voided the warranty when you installed the Sync 3 system.

 

On the no start issue, next time try shifting into neutral. (Eliminate the gearshift park switch).

[Haz]

The more-frequent front bulb burnouts and scorched sockets are due to your Canadian-spec MKX's mandatory daytime running lights.

 

I had our dealer activate the DRLs on our U.S.-spec 2012 MKX shortly after we bought it new, and I was initially surprised by the accelerated bulb failures, which occur due to the always-on turn signal filament usage when driving without the HID headlights turned on.

 

Through the years, I have kept a supply of Sylvania 3357A/3457A Long Life bulbs in the glovebox, along with a wrench capable of removing the splash shield forward retaining screws inside the front wheel well.

 

 

For me, success at changing either side front bulb is most importantly the result of having long arms, along with making a mental note of the direction I rotate the socket in order to withdraw it from the light housing.

 

 

I've found that sitting on an upside-down 5-gallon bucket puts my arm at the right height to fit through the peeled-back front edge of the splash shield, and to accomplish the task blindly after peering into the opening with a flashlight to refresh my awareness of the structures adjacent to the installed socket that make the job challenging.

 

It takes a bit of fiddling to get the bulb/socket assembly in & out from behind a lateral sheet metal brace where an almost unworkable amount of clearance exists.

 

Before I developed this skill, and early-on when bulb burnouts were still covered under warranty, a dealership service tech said I'd have to come back when he had more time to remove the front fender, in order to replace the bulb.  Apparently, his arm wasn't long enough to reach the in-place light bulb socket.

 

I drove back home and immediately changed the bulb myself.

 

Good luck!