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2017 Edge Sport [SYNC 3] Climate Fan Stuck On High - FIX?


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Hello,

 

Last night my climate control was working fine however this morning when I started my car up to head to work my climate blower was stuck on full blast. I tried to turn the car off and on multiple time, turn the climate system off and on, turn it down with the physical button and every time I did that it says “Fan 0” as if its at a 0 speed and I couldn't change it at all.

 

I googled and searched this forum for an answer but I couldn't really find anything. My settings when I shut my car off was not auto or anything like that, and the auto light in the sync system was not lit up, however my auto settings for just the defrost/front/feet settings was set to auto, but that didn't extend to the fan box like it would normally.

 

Long story short I just started hitting all the buttons, and every one of them worked (temp would change, actuator would work, heated/cooled seats worked) everything worked except that fan which was stuck on high.

 

I finally was able to hit the “auto” button which didn't change the fan speed at the time, but did put that auto box around the fan setting which was at least something. I turned auto back off and had full fan control again, sort of like it was stuck in an auto all by itself but I had never clicked or had my car in an auto setting for climate, so somewhere along the line my car had changed that setting on its own.

 

I just wanted to tell my story for anybody else who may be having this issue :).

Edited by Tmaf901
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If it happens again, you could try resetting the hvac module.

 

Hold down the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, release then press the climate control power button one more time and that will reset your heater.

 

Unrelated to the problem, but how long has it been since you changed your cabin air filter?

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1 hour ago, enigma-2 said:

If it happens again, you could try resetting the hvac module.

 

Hold down the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, release then press the climate control power button one more time and that will reset your heater.

 

Unrelated to the problem, but how long has it been since you changed your cabin air filter?


This is excellent to know :). I tried the reset but ai don't think I did it right, your explanation was perfect at explaining how to do it. Ill try it next time if it happens again.

 

This vehicle is new to me (3-4 months) it has 40,000 miles on it I haven't changed it at all. If its easy to do I will look into it :)

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24 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

if there is a replaceable resistor, you may need to check that.  when it fails, it defaults to HIGH.


Something to look into definitely. If you don't mind explaining where such resistor would be found that would be cool. It hasn't done it sense, was curious if it was a fluke electronic malfunction.

 

I am starting to feel fluke electronic malfunctions are common on this ford edge (since this would be the second time a strange occurrence has happened since I have owned the vehicle but hasn't shown up again lol).

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7 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

if there is a replaceable resistor, you may need to check that.  when it fails, it defaults to HIGH.

He mentioned he hit the "auto" button. Believe he has the auto climate control system.

 

Tmaf901, the resister is located on (or near) the motor (needs air over for cooling). However if you have an auto climate control system, (you mentioned that you hit the "auto" button, not present in a manual system) there is no resistor pack. It's all done through the control module.

 

If you have a manual system, the resistor pack failed as WWWPerfA_ZNOW stated. (Nothing else can cause this). If you have the auto system, the hvac electronic module had a hiccup.

 

(On an auto climate system, one 'possible' cause is a weak vehicle battery. Do you make short trips when you drive? Short trips don't properly recharge the battery properly). When the battery gets weak, the voltage runs low and these modules are sensitive to low voltage. If not short trips, its possible it's just getting worn out from age/use. Or, the module got passed off that day and decided to go on strike. Happens. 

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56 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

He mentioned he hit the "auto" button. Believe he has the auto climate control system.

 

Tmaf901, the resister is located on (or near) the motor (needs air over for cooling). However if you have an auto climate control system, (you mentioned that you hit the "auto" button, not present in a manual system) there is no resistor pack. It's all done through the control module.

 

If you have a manual system, the resistor pack failed as WWWPerfA_ZNOW stated. (Nothing else can cause this). If you have the auto system, the hvac electronic module had a hiccup.

 

(On an auto climate system, one 'possible' cause is a weak vehicle battery. Do you make short trips when you drive? Short trips don't properly recharge the battery properly). When the battery gets weak, the voltage runs low and these modules are sensitive to low voltage. If not short trips, its possible it's just getting worn out from age/use. Or, the module got passed off that day and decided to go on strike. Happens. 


This is all very useful information that may help somebody in the near future. Yes the climate system has an automatic feature, however I hate that feature and keep it off haha.

 

I have a radar detector hooked up (it turns off when all the electronics in the car automatically turn off, or after 1 hr of no GPS activity) but when on it tells me “Low Voltage” if the voltage level drops low enough. Usually I’ll receive this message when I start my car (if the device is already on) and this is normal. However the day this had happened I drove my car down the street, pulled off and shut my car off and waited 30 second before restarting hoping to see the system reset but it did not. One thing I remember though is hearing that “Low Voltage” noise prior to even restarting my car. So it’s possible my battery could be starting to fail. Its something good to be aware of. :).

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If you have it tested, make certain they test the CCA rating, not the voltage. 

 

I use a Solar BA7 and wife's car battery is acting up. Checked and it showed 12.6 volts but only 182 CCAs (new it rated 650 CCAs). Gets a new battery week after next. That 12.6 volts can drop to 9 volts after starting due to low capacity and these electronic modules

throw a hissy fit on low voltage. 

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