No AC, airbag, outside temp, tailgate when hot weather

[Beyondonedge]

Hi,

 

Just joined trying to see if I can find a solution. I apologise if there is a post with a solution somewhere.

I have a ford edge 2017 which I bought used back in November 2024. Not every single time but on several occassions when the weather is hot I get the following symptoms:

• No AC, options grey on touchscreen

• FCIM appears completely dead, no buttons will work BUT radio if already on from before can be controlled from steering wheel

• No external temperature displayed on touchscreen or IPC. Instead it reads "--"

•Airbag icon/light  on the dash

•Electric tailgate will not open

After reading post on forums both about the ford edge and other models  I thought maybe the FCIM may need replacing. When I disconnect it I can recreate all the symptoms except from the tailgate which works fine. This leads me to think it may be a connection issue somewhere which the heat triggers? Frustratingly, it is always when I really need to use the AC and instead have to stick to keeping the windows down on the motorway.

Has anybody come across this and found a solution? I want to avoid the bill from the local ford dealer if I can.

Can anyone direct me to the connections involved and their location so I can check them?

If it is of any use the part number of my FCIM is HM2T-18E245-ARA

Thank you

Edited July 13 by Beyondonedge

[enigma-2]

One possible guess is the vehicle battery is getting weak. 

Edited July 17 by enigma-2

[Beyondonedge]

Just an update at this point. The issue has occurred again today. Normally once the vehicle cools the issue goes. But not today. I have tried clearing DTCs as well which has not worked.

I have not had a chance to check the battery yet. What is the best way to check it would you say?

Or is it worth replacing the FCIM?

I have attached my DTC log; if anyone can help point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it.

DTCs symptoms present 12aug2025.txt

[Beyondonedge]

Once again this morning it is back to normal (a bit cooler today). I am really puzzled by this.

[Beyondonedge]

Update:

This morning it happened again. Interestingly, I drove with the windows down (I had to, too hot) and it sorted itself mid-drive. However, I go back to the car after work and it has been like that since.

I had a bit of time so took it to halfords to check the battery but they said it was good (see photo). I guess next step try replacing FCIM?

[Beyondonedge]

I also forgot to mention, I also noticed when the symtpoms appear, the park assist system will not work, I get the malfunction error. I do not use it hence why I did not notice it before but I got curious yesterday. If everything else works, the park assist seems to work too.

[Beyondonedge]

Well, checked all connections both on BCM and the power distribution box in the engine compartment. No signs of corrossion, sprayed them with contact cleaner anyway. Still not working. Starting to regret buying this car. Any ideas?

Edited August 25 by Beyondonedge

[enigma-2]

I'd still have the battery tested. I say this as you're getting multiple malfunctions at the same time (low voltage can cause unrelated errors.)

 

By the looks of it, they used a voltage test. Voltage tests were ok years ago when a car didn't rely the heavy use of electronics. Low voltage, no problem. Butbin a computer, low voltage.. and the microprocessor is making up zeros for ones.

 

You need to test the CCA rating of a modern battery.

 

Battery's can test full voltage but still not be able to deliver enough current when under stress  

 

Here's what I use to test my batteries (I even use it for my Simplicity garden tractor):

 

https://a.co/d/5DF64x3

 

It's a little more expensive, but it also tests the charging system as well. 

[Beyondonedge]

Thank you for your reply. I just ordered myself one which will arrive end of next week. Is using this device self explanatory?

[Beyondonedge]

Hi. I finally got round to testing the battery with the tester you recommended. I have a photo of the result. I guess this means it is good? Any further ideas? Now that there is no hot weather there is no way to recreate the conditions to check if any solutions work; which is annoying.

[enigma-2]

What CCA is your battery rated at; was it 650 CCA?

[Beyondonedge]

I believe 800CCA. That is what I put in the settings to test.

[1004ron]

I'm guessing that tester has the same capabilities as mine, which is the CCA, Cranking Amps, and Charging System - if so the best to perform all those tests.

 

Odd that the CCA will drop that much from Aug to Sept ??

 

The settling voltage is lower than it should be - good reason to use the tester for charging rate.

 

12.23V is about 65% charged.

 

Edited Saturday at 12:40 PM by 1004ron

[Beyondonedge]

Thank you for your reply. The tester does indeed offer a few other tests so I will do them all and provide an update.

[Beyondonedge]

Hi. So I did all the tests I could. I started off with another CCA test, then Cranking test, Charging system test, Ripple test. At the end I did another CCA test and noticed it said 661 from 636 at the beginning. Not sure if that is good or not. Would a few minutes of engine running make such a difference?

[1004ron]

That's all looking good - battery isn't new, but not near replacement time.

 

The settling voltage of 12.23V is possibly an indication of a parasitic draw - I'd do a test for that - many YT vids on that.

 

Doesn't explain the intermittent operational issues - that may need expert diagnostics and probably need to to misbehave at the time.

[enigma-2]

As you have eliminated the possibility of low voltage, the bane of electronic modules, i would lean towards the FCIM failing when hot (a broken solder joint can open when hit and cause these problems.

These types of intermittent failures are hard to track down.)

 

Only other cause I can think of is one of the harness connectors has green crusties (corrosion.)

 

My 09 does this every once in a while (not always heat related.)

 

I'm usually able to recover the radio by playing with the steering wheel controls, or, by shutting off the car, open and close the doors, lock the doors with the remote, then unlock the doors, open the drivers door, and restarting the car. So far, thao procedure has fixed the hiccup. 

 

.

Edited 22 hours ago by enigma-2