New owner needs some experienced help.

[Ontheedgeofthecliff]

Any helpful experience or mechanic perspective is being sought out for a new edge owner. 
2016 edge titanium 3.5L 6 speed 142,000 MI. 
bought used from private seller. 
grinding sound present in rear end upon long drive home AFTER test drive. 
sound is loudest at beginning gears and gets quieter once momentum is built. 
does not change during turning, or cornering. 
not present in reverse

when driving it feels like the engine downshifts (going up a hill at 60mph) but the torque is minimal like it’s working against its self when it downshifts, just RPM increase. 
 

history known so far:

owner 1: rear diff and wheel bearings replaced at 91k miles OEM installed by authorized ford dealer 4 yrs ago. 
 

sells vehicle to large dealership and owner 2 buys vehicle at 106k mi. 
 

owner 2 replaces PTU OEM part but installed by a performance shop. 
has vehicle since 2023 after PTU install and lists it this year. (So they drove it for 3 years). 

local shop says rear diff is bad, but does not know the history. I’ve been wheeling trucks and hauling for years and never blew one RDU. I’m doubting the RDU diagnosis if it was replaced in 2022 but honestly don’t know where to start. 

im not a mechanic and i own a ranger so i know nothing about the AWD system. 
this is my sons car after we came back stateside from a country he was not old enough to drive in. I’m just trying to get his car that he saved for 4 years for to be diagnosed. 

please help!  

 

[Samurai Edge]

Are you sure the noise is from the RDU and not somewhere else?  Noises are a funny thing.  They can sound like they are coming from one place but be coming from another.

 

First most obvious approach - Have you checked the RDU fluid level?

First thing I'd do is replace the RDU fluid with the appropriate amount using the appropriate fluid.

Check your Owner's Manual ( you can find them on-line if the car doesn't have one ) for the appropriate RDU oil weight.  It is not the same for all Ford Edge years.

 

If you are unsure where the noise is exactly coming from ( ie; it could be the u-joints or something else ), one thing you can do is get the car up on the lift and have someone gently accelerate while you listen for where the noise is coming from.

 

 

NOTE:  Did you have this car inspected before purchase?

             Even if you buy from a private seller, the seller is responsible for a properly performing vehicle for 30 days minimum ( could be longer (?)).

             When you purchased the vehicle, do you have a Bill of Sale and, if so, does it state you purchased the vehicle " As Is "?

 

 

[enigma-2]

Believe I'm going to disagree with you on this. A  private seller is NOT responsible for repairs once the sale is complete. Private party sales are typically considered "as-is," meaning the buyer accepts the vehicle's current condition and assumes all future repair costs. 

 

The only exception to this is  intentional fraud or misrepresentation. Such as rolling back the odometer, hiding a salvage title, or explicitly stating in writing that a specific part was replaced when it was not. In order to win this in court, you would need to prove that the seller knew about the issue and intentionally deceived you. This can be he said, she said, in which case, you lose.

 

Can always ask the seller to provide you with a written warranty (I.E. "will cover all necessary repairs to the engine or transmission for 30 days after sale," or the like.)

 

[enigma-2]

At this mileage, the most likely culprits are worn wheel bearings or RDU.

If bearings, the noise changes pitch with speed and may get louder or quieter when you steer left or right.

 

If RDU, there's a l growling or grinding that's most noticeable under light acceleration or during low-speed turns.

[Samurai Edge]

19 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Believe I'm going to disagree with you on this. A  private seller is NOT responsible for repairs once the sale is complete. Private party sales are typically considered "as-is," meaning the buyer accepts the vehicle's current condition and assumes all future repair costs. 

 

The only exception to this is  intentional fraud or misrepresentation. Such as rolling back the odometer, hiding a salvage title, or explicitly stating in writing that a specific part was replaced when it was not. In order to win this in court, you would need to prove that the seller knew about the issue and intentionally deceived you. This can be he said, she said, in which case, you lose.

 

Can always ask the seller to provide you with a written warranty (I.E. "will cover all necessary repairs to the engine or transmission for 30 days after sale," or the like.)

 

I just looked it up and you are correct UNLESS:

"  State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle. "

 

So, it's possible and depends on where the vehicle was sold / purchased.  It's an option IF the buyer feels something is wrong / misrepresented at the time of the sale.  I am not advocating for any type of lawsuit.  Just something to consider.

 

As I mentioned, we do not know if the OP has a Bill of Sale and what that Bill of Sale states if one exists.  Then again, I just re-read the OP's original post and see now that I am not sure of when this vehicle was actually purchased.

 

It seems odd that the RDU would go bad in 50K miles, not that it is not possible.

• State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle.

• State-Specific Laws: Some states may have laws that provide implied warranties even in private sales, particularly if the vehicle has certain characteristics or if the seller has made specific representations about the vehicle.