Headlight issue....no DRL, high/low beam drivers side

[Lysle]

Hello to the group and good day.

 

I own a 2013 Edge with 201000 kms. I have owned it for a little over a year.

 

Recently, I wanted to replace the halogen bulbs since I thought that the drivers side one was burned out due to poor headlight pattern.

 

When I took out the old drivers side bulb, I discovered that it was LED instead of halogen.  I went ahead and replaced it with the halogen bulb anyway on both sides since I did not want to have halogen on one side and LED on the other.

 

Now- with halogens on both sides, there is nothing on the drivers side- no DRL (daytime running lights) or high or low beams.

 

I should mention that after I removed the LED on the drivers side, I turned on the lights with the LED bulb lying on the front grill, it lit up but there appeared to be smoke coming from it. I turned the lights off immediately.

 

Smoke is never a good thing- generally speaking....although- here in Canada-cannabis is legal.

 

Fuses appear to be OK.

 

Question- is there a relay which supplies current to the headlights?

 

Some sources claim that the fuses in the drivers footwell are "relay fuses"...

 

Any-and all- thoughts appreciated with much thanks in advance.

 

 

[enigma-2]

If we can assume that the LEDs were aftermarket, there's a possibility that the LED were installed with an external driver box (a small metal/plastic rectangle attached to the wire.) If so, did you also remove this adapter from the factory housing as well? (This additional harness must also be removed.)

 

When installing the Halogen bulbs, wipe the glass with an alcohol wipe to remove any possible contamination. Never touch the glass with your fingers as it will leave oils from your finger and dramatically shorten the life of the bulbs.

 

 

 

 

 

[Lysle]

Many thanks for the reply.  There is evidence that the wiring has been changed from OEM- heat shrink tubing.... I don't see anything more inside the headlight assembly but will take a closer look when able.

[1004ron]

What does your owner's manual specify for the headlamps, Halogen or HID?

 

Depending on the type and brand of LED that the previous owner installed, it may have needed resistors so when you're digging into the wiring be on the lookout for that.

[Lysle]

The vehicle must have had halogens since the fuse slots for HID are all empty with no connections for fuses. Thanks for the advice on the resistors...so far, there is nothing in the headlight housing except wiring. I will post a pic of the old LED that I removed.

 

I have FORSCAN on my laptop and will check for error codes in the Body Control Module. If there are any, I will post.

 

Many thanks to all who read my posting- special thanks to those who replied.

 

Edited May 21 by Lysle
Important additional information

[Lysle]

This is one of the LED light assemblies removed.

[1004ron]

I don't recognize it but assume that cylindrical part contains the resistor.

 

Next steps would be to check for codes and if that doesn't provide any pointers then start fault finding with the electrical schematics and multimeter.

Ford Edge 2013 Color Wiring Diagram Schematic V6 3.7L FWD pdf | eBay

[Lysle]

I ran the FORSCAN program yesterday and got the code B1D00- Left low beam circuit short to battery or open. 

 

Some parts of the program were unavailable due to not having the advanced license- which I'm trying to add presently.

[Wubster100]

18 hours ago, Lysle said:

Some parts of the program were unavailable due to not having the advanced license- which I'm trying to add presently.

 

Go here to get the free license: https://forscan.org/support/prepare_trial_el_request.php?lang=en

[Lysle]

OK thanks.  I now have the improved license and ran the program.  

 

It did not reveal any DTCs anywhere.  I have also obtained the wiring diagram for the vehicle from the Ebay vendor.

 

The search goes on.  Developments posted as they occur.  Thanks to al.

[Lysle]

According to the wiring diagram, power comes into the Body Control Module through fuses 23, 39, 47, 17 and 16.  From there, power should come into the left headlight assembly through the brown and blue wire- into the bulb and then to ground point G105. If I place a multimeter across the 2 bulb connector plug prongs and get/not get a reading- what would the conclusion be?

[1004ron]

If possible post images of the electrical schematic showing this area.

 

Measure between each of the bulb connectors contacts and ground - measure continuity between the bulb connectors contacts and ground.

[Wubster100]

On 5/24/2026 at 7:43 AM, Lysle said:

It did not reveal any DTCs anywhere

Do a BCM self test and it should reveal DTCs.

[enigma-2]

Per Wubster100's post.  Connect FORScan, click on the "tests" icon (looks like a clipboard with a checkmark.) Select the BCM self test from the list. Click the run button at the bottom left. The BCM test will run and test the BCM's  internal circuits, read live data and report any codes.

[Lysle]

I am happy to report that the problem is solved.  The issue was the left headlight main wiring block.  The photos show that both the prong side and contact side were compromised.  One of the prongs stayed in the contact and pulled away when the main block was separated. I replaced both and all is now well.

 

Strange however is that voltmeter reading at the 2 prong headlamp connection showed a DC reading. I suppose that the circuit resistance was high enough  that the circuit was not allowing sufficient current to light the bulb. The ground connection might have had high resistance as well.

 

Thanks to all who posted and to all who read.

[1004ron]

Well done.

 

You are correct, when using a modern digital multimeter you need to take into account that it has a very high input impedance - a simple 12v test lamp works better in these situations.