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breake pedal problem


sylli

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i have a edge 2008 and hes bean make in sept 2007 and i have a lot of problem whit the truck

 

the big problem i have whit it the breake pedal that at cold temperture or after a ride of 15 min

 

and more when i whant to breake the pedal goes to the floor thay changr the master cylinder,the abs assy, the regulater, the disc, and the pad

 

it same that the pedal as still no firmless and hi have about 2 inch loose before it start to breake and i have to pump the padal for have a good hite

 

and when the cruise is on it same sometime that i have to press 2 time because the 1 time it goes to the floor

 

 

cant somebody help me

 

because next week thay send the truck for an inspection

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With a leak pedal travel would get progressively worse.

 

It's possible a brake piston is consistently retracting more than normal. A warped rear rotor, or maladjusted drum brake, might cause that and still not be very noticeable.

 

Who said the pedal travel isnt getting worse?

The Ford Edge uses a drum for the parking brake only so that's FALSE.

A warped rotor would cause vibration at speeds but not allow the brake pedal to reach the floor so WRONG again.

One brake piston retracting more would not cause the brake pedal to reach the floor either.

I've seen cars with frozen pistons and the pedal still had the same travel distance.

Edited by MOFSTEEL
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I just paid $621 (incl stupid tax) to have the booster and master cylinder replaced on my 2007. Seems the master was leaking into the booster, destroying it. It would have been $150 more, but we pissed and moaned enough to have that one erased. (The original quote was $580, then the next morning, it went up $150 because we needed a master cyl now)....

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Who said the pedal travel isnt getting worse?

The Ford Edge uses a drum for the parking brake only so that's FALSE.

A warped rotor would cause vibration at speeds but not allow the brake pedal to reach the floor so WRONG again.

One brake piston retracting more would not cause the brake pedal to reach the floor either.

I've seen cars with frozen pistons and the pedal still had the same travel distance.

 

Now, now, it's usually easy to pick on wwest, but in this case it's you who's WRONG. A warped rotor can cause the piston to retract more. Every time the warp hits the pad, it pushes the piston back into the caliper. And yes one brake piston retracting more would cause exactly the symptoms the OP describes. All the brake fluid must push that one piston up to the pad first, then it can start to actually apply the brakes at all four corners. To the driver that would feel exactly like a loose pedal and depending on how far the piston has retracted, it could go to the floor. Last time I changed the pads on my Focus (you retract the pistons when you change pads), I forgot to pump the brakes and started rolling the car down my driveway (towards my wife's car). I nearly had a heart attack as the pedal went right to the floor, but some frantic pumping brought the pistons back up to the pads and stopped the car in time. A frozen piston is a totally different scenario. A frozen piston doesn't move at all, so the brake fluid can't push it and thus immediately starts acting on the other three calipers. In fact a frozen piston would make the pedal feel tighter and shorter, if anything.

 

But, it would take a LOT of rotor warp to cause as much issue as the OP describes. Thus I think this explanation is highly unlikely to be the cause. It's far more likely to be a leak that's allowing air into the system but not a lot of fluid out. Even though the master cylinder has been changed, I'd check it again, especially with regards to it's interaction with the booster, as in DJ Nap's case.

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Now, now, it's usually easy to pick on wwest, but in this case it's you who's WRONG. A warped rotor can cause the piston to retract more. Every time the warp hits the pad, it pushes the piston back into the caliper. And yes one brake piston retracting more would cause exactly the symptoms the OP describes. All the brake fluid must push that one piston up to the pad first, then it can start to actually apply the brakes at all four corners. To the driver that would feel exactly like a loose pedal and depending on how far the piston has retracted, it could go to the floor. Last time I changed the pads on my Focus (you retract the pistons when you change pads), I forgot to pump the brakes and started rolling the car down my driveway (towards my wife's car). I nearly had a heart attack as the pedal went right to the floor, but some frantic pumping brought the pistons back up to the pads and stopped the car in time. A frozen piston is a totally different scenario. A frozen piston doesn't move at all, so the brake fluid can't push it and thus immediately starts acting on the other three calipers. In fact a frozen piston would make the pedal feel tighter and shorter, if anything.

But, it would take a LOT of rotor warp to cause as much issue as the OP describes. Thus I think this explanation is highly unlikely to be the cause. It's far more likely to be a leak that's allowing air into the system but not a lot of fluid out. Even though the master cylinder has been changed, I'd check it again, especially with regards to it's interaction with the booster, as in DJ Nap's case.

 

 

First you say im wrong and then you go on and explain why im right.

Like you said the warp in the rotor need to be pretty large that the scenario that the OP described wouldn't be duplicated.

IN FACT most warped rotors are only felt at higher speeds due to the variation in height along the surface.

EVEN THEN the travel in pedal is nearly centimeters.

 

You are definitely a brake noob proven by the fact you almost wrecked two cars doing a brake job.

 

Thanks for trying though.

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First you say im wrong and then you go on and explain why im right.

Like you said the warp in the rotor need to be pretty large that the scenario that the OP described wouldn't be duplicated.

IN FACT most warped rotors are only felt at higher speeds due to the variation in height along the surface.

EVEN THEN the travel in pedal is nearly centimeters.

 

You are definitely a brake noob proven by the fact you almost wrecked two cars doing a brake job.

 

Thanks for trying though.

 

I know Waldo and trust me when I say he knows a lot more about this than you do.

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One brake piston retracting more would not cause the brake pedal to reach the floor either.

 

 

And yes one brake piston retracting more would cause exactly the symptoms the OP describes. All the brake fluid must push that one piston up to the pad first, then it can start to actually apply the brakes at all four corners. To the driver that would feel exactly like a loose pedal and depending on how far the piston has retracted, it could go to the floor.

 

 

You don't know me and trust me he OBVIOUSLY doesn't or else he wouldn't have contradicted himself.

 

He didn't contradict anything. You said it wasn't possible and Waldo explained how it was possible. You didn't qualify your answer in terms of whether that was the likely cause in this particular case.

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Now, now, it's usually easy to pick on wwest, but in this case it's you who's WRONG. A warped rotor can cause the piston to retract more. Every time the warp hits the pad, it pushes the piston back into the caliper. And yes one brake piston retracting more would cause exactly the symptoms the OP describes. All the brake fluid must push that one piston up to the pad first, then it can start to actually apply the brakes at all four corners. To the driver that would feel exactly like a loose pedal and depending on how far the piston has retracted, it could go to the floor. Last time I changed the pads on my Focus (you retract the pistons when you change pads), I forgot to pump the brakes and started rolling the car down my driveway (towards my wife's car). I nearly had a heart attack as the pedal went right to the floor, but some frantic pumping brought the pistons back up to the pads and stopped the car in time. A frozen piston is a totally different scenario. A frozen piston doesn't move at all, so the brake fluid can't push it and thus immediately starts acting on the other three calipers. In fact a frozen piston would make the pedal feel tighter and shorter, if anything.

 

But, it would take a LOT of rotor warp to cause as much issue as the OP describes. Thus I think this explanation is highly unlikely to be the cause. It's far more likely to be a leak that's allowing air into the system but not a lot of fluid out. Even though the master cylinder has been changed, I'd check it again, especially with regards to it's interaction with the booster, as in DJ Nap's case.

 

He didn't contradict anything. You said it wasn't possible and Waldo explained how it was possible. You didn't qualify your answer in terms of whether that was the likely cause in this particular case.

 

 

I ALREADY pointed out where he contradicted himself in the post above but since you're so focused on defending your life partner you might have missed it. I guess one needs to be very literal and specific in this forum because ones post might be subjected to attacks.

I was warned about Ford owners but I am only now starting to see the light.

I guess I can say thanks for the enlightenment.

 

As far as one caliper retracting enough back into the caliper to where it would cause the pedal to pressed to the floorboards.

Never heard or seen it in a real life situation.

After a brake job where someone or something physically retracts the piston OR pistons, yes.

Situation where piston fails and retracts into caliper, never.

COULD it happen? Maybe, can't say that I've seen everything but the chances that this happened to the OP are slim to none.

 

So my apologies. Next time ill try to online every possible scenario no matter how minuscule the probabilities that it will happen.

Edited by MOFSTEEL
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I guess one needs to be very literal and specific in this forum because ones post might be subjected to attacks..

 

Well this is obviously true, as the attack was started by you against wwest for this very reason. He merely offered a theory, you immediately jumped on him saying he was WRONG. I merely pointed out how you were wrong to dismiss his theory, it is possible, but very unlikely. Unlikely and wrong are very different things. You then tried to compare an over-retracting piston to a frozen piston, which clearly shows your ignorance of brake systems as they are completely opposite issues.

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Well this is obviously true, as the attack was started by you against wwest for this very reason. He merely offered a theory, you immediately jumped on him saying he was WRONG. I merely pointed out how you were wrong to dismiss his theory, it is possible, but very unlikely. Unlikely and wrong are very different things. You then tried to compare an over-retracting piston to a frozen piston, which clearly shows your ignorance of brake systems as they are completely opposite issues.

 

 

My so called "attack" on wwest has to do with many of his posts and not just the one in this thread.

He offers up many theories in which are no help and mostly steer the OP in the wrong direction.

Jumping to conclusions will get you no where and that is where you stand.

 

The reason I brought up the frozen piston is because it is something that I have seen happen many times

unlike you hypothesis of the piston retracting back to the caliper. It was a comparison only in that sense.

 

The ignorance in this thread comes from you and your mate. In his case this isn't the first time.

In yours just a misunderstanding.

 

Now it's time I move on from this thread.

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