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Backup Camera Replacement

Backup Camera Backup camera factory replacement

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#1 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 10:45 AM

The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools.

 

Tools needed:

7/16" open end wrench

7/16" socket

#2 Phillips screwdriver

T20 Torx screwdriver

Thin common screwdriver for prying

Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets

Attached File  1.jpg   378.57KB   26 downloads

 

Overview:

To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera.

 

Step 1:

Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel.

Attached File  2.jpg   214.54KB   26 downloads

 

Step 2:

On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside.

Attached File  3.jpg   251.38KB   29 downloads

 

Step 3:

Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it.

Attached File  4.jpg   195.57KB   32 downloads

 

Step 4:

Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud.

Attached File  5.jpg   282.27KB   42 downloads

 

Step 5:

This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit.

Attached File  6.jpg   235.42KB   39 downloads

 

Step 6:

Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera.

Attached File  7.jpg   296.92KB   27 downloadsAttached File  8.jpg   277.67KB   17 downloads

 

Step 7:

Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place.

 

Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!

 

 


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#2 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 11:57 AM

Great writeup, thanks for adding this to our knowledge on the forum!  By the way, I take it "straight ahead" is not an option here? :)



#3 OFFLINE   xK317Hx

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 12:02 PM

Are you planning on going to the dealer to reprogram the camera to get your guide lines back? If so let us know how much it cost.

Thanks.

#4 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 12:02 PM

Great writeup, thanks for adding this to our knowledge on the forum!  By the way, I take it "straight ahead" is not an option here? :)

Thanks, in retrospect I wish I had taken better pictures but I think most people can figure it out from this. Not sure what you mean by "straight ahead," sorry if I didn't get the joke or something.


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#5 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 12:05 PM

Are you planning on going to the dealer to reprogram the camera to get your guide lines back? If so let us know how much it cost.

Thanks.

 

I bought it used and it didn't have the lines to begin with. I need to get the master code for my keypad door locks anyways (which requires a dealer visit/computer plug in), so I will see what they think when I bring it in for that. Any details you can give me on the reprogram process would be appreciated as the service manager seemed baffled by my backup camera woes.



#6 OFFLINE   mesaman

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 09:57 PM

Superb write up. Tremendous help..

 

I also bought 1 on-line. The directions were perfect for a 2013 Ltd. I started the car and it works great, with the lines and all.



#7 OFFLINE   crazyolds

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Posted 13 August 2017 - 07:13 AM

I have a 2011 Edge with the same problem, just bought the camera this week and will install tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the information, I was looking everywhere to see how to replace it.



#8 OFFLINE   Kate13

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 02:53 PM

I bought a replacement camera on Amazon and installed it but I am still getting the "Contact Dealership" message.  I called the parts guy at Ford and he said you had to have it recalibrated at a dealer once you install it and it wasn't a plug and play.  From what I have read the recalibration is just for the parking aid lines and it should work without any recalibrations or updates.  For those who replaced their cameras did you just plug the new one in and it worked?  I am trying to figure out if the camera I bought is bad or if I need to have it recalibrated.

 

Also where did you buy your camera from and how much was it?

 

Thanks!


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#9 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 03:23 PM

I bought a replacement camera on Amazon and installed it but I am still getting the "Contact Dealership" message.  I called the parts guy at Ford and he said you had to have it recalibrated at a dealer once you install it and it wasn't a plug and play.  From what I have read the recalibration is just for the parking aid lines and it should work without any recalibrations or updates.  For those who replaced their cameras did you just plug the new one in and it worked?  I am trying to figure out if the camera I bought is bad or if I need to have it recalibrated.

 

Also where did you buy your camera from and how much was it?

 

Thanks!

 

Mine was 99% plug and play. I did not have backup lines previously and they didn't show up with the new camera, but it doesn't bother me enough to have the dealer try to fix it. I would try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to force a full reboot on the system before taking it to the dealership. If you are especially cheap (like me! haha), maybe try a software update as well. Hopefully one of those things will help it see the camera!


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#10 OFFLINE   Codyb

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 08:42 PM

This is a great write up. Helped me swap out the camera on my 2011 Edge today. The rear camera display is back and looking good but my issue now is the image is upside down plus no guide lines. The camera can only be installed one way as far as I can tell. I notice in your pics that you have a different part number than what I got. Where did you purchase your camera from? Thanks.

#11 OFFLINE   Codyb

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 09:07 PM

Kate 13, what is the part number for the camera you got from Amazon? I got mine from eBay, $70, part number BT4Z19G490B. This is the actual number printed on the camera. I notice many cameras listed with this part number but the picture shows a different number on the actual part. Not sure if any of that matters as all the cameras look identical. I'm wondering if I got one that had the same part number printed on it as in the pictures above things would be different... Scratching head... I've got an OBD blue tooth scan tool and downloaded the forscan software. I will attempt the recalibration tomorrow and see what happens.
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#12 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 09:35 PM

This is a great write up. Helped me swap out the camera on my 2011 Edge today. The rear camera display is back and looking good but my issue now is the image is upside down plus no guide lines. The camera can only be installed one way as far as I can tell. I notice in your pics that you have a different part number than what I got. Where did you purchase your camera from? Thanks.


Thanks! I got mine from Amazon as well. I just went back to the product page and it now shows the part number that you got. It may be just different enough that it does require a dealer "configuration," but that's just speculation on my end. What was your original PN?
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#13 OFFLINE   Codyb

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 03:24 AM

The original part number is same as yours. BT4T-19G490-AD.

#14 OFFLINE   Kate13

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 09:44 AM

This is the one I bought.  https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

You can go the the shippers website and see it there as well.  http://avlis-co.com/...utility-4-door/

 

The part is marked with part number GJ5T-19G490-AD  but it says  it is interchangeable with BT4T-19G490-AF, BT4Z-19G490-B, BT4Z-19G490-A

 

 

Codyb do you have a link to the one you bought on ebay?  

 

ugoleftillgorite what is the link for the one you bought on amazon?

 

I haven't tried the forscan so I am thinking about that might get it to work?  However, everything I have read said it worked without the forscan (minus the parking lines, etc)

 
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#15 OFFLINE   mrdisty

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 05:40 PM

I have read several of these forum topics discussing the removal of the camera. One that I saw and will support wholeheartedly is using a dremel to cut a groove into the screw that holds the camera bracket. It is MUCH easier than trying to remove the swaged in screw threads and gently prying the tabs loose on the painted panel. That process is ripe for failure and potentially causing further issues/damage. I simply cut the groove into the bottom of the screw, backed it out, and replaced it with a small bolt, lock washer and nut. It took far less time to do this than trying to get the two plastic pieces apart. Now if I could get the camera image to not be upside down, I would have it made!


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#16 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 07:52 AM

I have read several of these forum topics discussing the removal of the camera. One that I saw and will support wholeheartedly is using a dremel to cut a groove into the screw that holds the camera bracket. It is MUCH easier than trying to remove the swaged in screw threads and gently prying the tabs loose on the painted panel. That process is ripe for failure and potentially causing further issues/damage. I simply cut the groove into the bottom of the screw, backed it out, and replaced it with a small bolt, lock washer and nut. It took far less time to do this than trying to get the two plastic pieces apart. Now if I could get the camera image to not be upside down, I would have it made!

 

To each their own. Feel free to link the other post here so that people that see this one see the route you took.



#17 OFFLINE   ugoleftillgorite

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 07:54 AM

 

This is the one I bought.  https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

You can go the the shippers website and see it there as well.  http://avlis-co.com/...utility-4-door/

 

The part is marked with part number GJ5T-19G490-AD  but it says  it is interchangeable with BT4T-19G490-AF, BT4Z-19G490-B, BT4Z-19G490-A

 

 

Codyb do you have a link to the one you bought on ebay?  

 

ugoleftillgorite what is the link for the one you bought on amazon?

 

I haven't tried the forscan so I am thinking about that might get it to work?  However, everything I have read said it worked without the forscan (minus the parking lines, etc)

 

 

 

Sorry for the late reply, the product page that I bought mine from now shows the part number you received.



#18 OFFLINE   Hotrodbiker

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Posted 30 November 2017 - 05:53 PM

Thanks for the write-up, used it this afternoon to change out my wife's camera. Now researching home to get the lines back, it's around here some where.



#19 OFFLINE   kd7jur

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 10:58 AM

Thanks for the write-up, used it this afternoon to change out my wife's camera. Now researching home to get the lines back, it's around here some where.

Forscan has a calibrate camera function built into the windows version, just need a bluetooth or USB ODBII interface. I Use one of these: https://smile.amazon...a-no-redirect=1
 

ugoleftillgorite, Thanks for the writeup, it's better than the NOTHING that is out there for what seems to be a common problem. i will definately be using this when i change the wifes.



#20 OFFLINE   Wilston

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 03:50 PM

The 1st camera I bought on eBay at this link https://www.ebay.com...872.m2749.l2649

This one flipped the images up-side-down. I couldn't get the images to flip by using the FORScan because the calibration sequence died at about 8%. I contacted the folks at FORScan and they said that most knock-off's exhibit that behavior so I bought another "genuine" OEM from Amazon https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one had the image right-side-up but the calibration program again died at 8% and its tilted a little too far down... So I give up!!!! At least now I can see whats behind me.. Let me know if anyone did solve the problem of the FORScan calibration dying at 8%







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