So the dealer’s mechanic says the entire rear differential/rear end needs to be replaced, and believes it likely contributed to the original PTU failure, and may have also damaged the replacement PTU that was installed afterward. Because the vehicle has had issues almost immediately after purchase, the dealer has offered to swap us into a different vehicle, and we’re probably going to take that route.   I still think the Edge is a nice vehicle when everything is working correctly, especially for highway driving and general daily comfort. But after everything we’ve experienced, I don’t think it’s the best fit for our situation. We live on a steep, rough gravel driveway in the mountains, and if we’re already seeing drivetrain issues mainly from normal pavement driving, I just don’t feel confident about how it’ll hold up long term for our environment and needs. At this point, we’re probably better off moving to something simpler and more rugged, even if that means giving up some of the comfort and luxury-style features the Edge offered.

Ive seen some FMIC vendors claiming up to 40 degrees air temp reduction with their products.   As far as I know... A 40-degree drop could theoretically provide a 3–4% bump in raw potential power just from the air density alone. Also when intake air is hot, the risk of pre-ignition increases significantly. To prevent the engine from destroying itself, the ECU will retard the ignition timing. By dropping the temp by 40 degrees, the engine can run more aggressive timing, which is where the most significant felt horsepower gains come from.   A few years ago I had a 2010 335i, and just by upgrading the FMIC without any ECU tuning, my "butt dino" felt gains of 15 to 20 hp.   So thats why I want to know, how this FMIC is performing on the ST, but I guess the OP is not reading this anymore    I would be great to have his feedback.    

Yes, though uncommon,  Many techs push the calipers back, sending the fluid back up the lines, through the abs and back to the master. Not loosening the rake fluid cap while doing this doesn't help either This can roll a seal in the master, send dirty fluid back up through the system, etc The best practice is to open the bleeder while pushing the piston in, then top up the system. Most people don't do this(inc me) unless the service manual says to  

Very late reply, But for new lookers, yes, your numbers line up with mine in Canada - 2013 sport, 22's Here anyways, our lower grade fuels have ethanol - 10-15%, which lowers fuel economy Where our premium - 91+ octane Usually doesn't.  The increase in fuel cost though doesn't offset the increase in economy-40 cents a liter

Just a note of my experience, Currently 2013 edge sport running 275 40 22, more choices in 275 vs 265 Winters 245 60 18, nicer ride, less road rut pull, and substantially better fuel economy. Love the look of the 22's, but at $2 a liter/$7 a gallon... So if you are looking to go bigger, tire width will make a fuel economy difference  

Thanks! I kinda knew that but wasn’t thinking. Good catch. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. 😉

If you need to use CR2025, a better option would be to use tinfoil to create the extra 2.5mm of space.

Just to clarify and a word of caution to anyone that may consider this suggestion in a pinch - two of the CR2025 stacked would result in a 6v battery which could fry a device designed for 3v.

Makes sense, thanks for clarifying 

They are two different fob styles. 2015/2016 used the older style (with 2x 2025 batteries) while 2017+ started using the newer type with a single 2450 battery.    My 2016 came with the older type and I added fob of the newer style. You can see them side by side In this post I made at the time.