Brian K

I got the tap and plug at an auto parts store - NAPA I believe. I described what I wanted to the guy at the shop and got the right parts so I was more confident that the plug would work in the tapped hole. I don't know where to find a magnetic plug but keep in mind the fill plug is does have a magnetic insert in it - so perhaps a dealership. You can also ask at the autoparts place if they have one - mine didn't. I really didn't understand the difference between the tapered NPT threading until I saw the tap and could see the taper on it. While a magnetic plug for the drain would be nice, if you're like me, you'll change the PTU oil a whole lot once you have a drain and I'm happy enough with the magnetic fill plug now that I know the PTU is full of oil. It doesn't catch much now. MIP stands for Male Iron Pipe or Male International Pipe and should work in NPT threads. Most plugs I've seen were brass - not copper. FIP means Female. You need a male plug as you have found and while I think the MIP plug should work in a NPT tapped hole, I'm not 100% certain.

The tap you use should be 'NPT', (National Pipe Thread) which means it will make a tapered thread so as you install the plug, it tightens up as it goes into the threaded hole so really not much chance that the plug will go right up inside the PTU. When you run the tap in the hole and make the threads, go in and out and clean out the cuttings numerous times until the tap is about 1/2 way up the tap - and you should be fine. The thread this type of tap makes it not like a traditional nut (from a nut & bolt) which would allow the threaded plug to go right through. This won't end up like an engine oil bolt - it is 'pipe' thread so will tighten up before it goes all the way through. When you get the tap, you will see it is tapered.

I bought a brass bolt style plug and used it first. Then I bought an aluminum Allen key Hex style plug because it was alumimum and I was somewhat concerned about the dissimilar metals (brass and aluminum) causing galvanic corrosion. Once I received the Allen key style plug I realized that I like the bolt style because IMO it's easier to get a socket with an extension to take the plug out and put it in rather than using an Allen key. You might have a 3/8" drive hex 'socket' to fit your plug but I didn't. You do have to reach up past the exhaust (about 6") to get to the plug and a 6" or 9" extension works well with a regular socket on it. No worries about it hitting anything. My 2 cents on preference - hopefully I explained it right. Also - you might want to consider using a 1/4" plug instead of the 3/8" (as I did). The 1/4" Tap (18 Threads per Inch) uses a 7/16" drill bit as the proper sized hole for the tap. So the hole is actually almost 1/2" in diameter. The reason I suggest this is because if you screw up the threading on the 1/4" hole you do get another chance to go to 3/8" and try it again. But screw up the 3/8" hole and you could be sweating bullets. I'm happy with the size of the 1/4" hole and it drains just fine. Good luck getting the hole drilled and tapped.

I had a look at threeputtpar's procedure on removing the vent - well done. I also tried to pry mine out but it wouldn't loosen and I was worried about breaking the jiggler off then I'd really be up the creek. I would still like to remove and clean the vent and perhaps do the same thing that 3puttpar did with a vent tube too. I had a look at an axle vent I took off my Mustang and it only vented out (it was threaded) - and it acted like a check valve so wouldn't allow air back in. Is this a correct? My vent is still dry after about 8 drain and fill's of the PTU. I also tried blowing air into the PTU and it is venting somewhere that I could hear but it doesn't seem to be venting out the vent - no jiggling of the jiggler top. Threeputtpar - any comments on the vent: 1) does it look like a one way device? 2) Is the jiggler on there quite well and can it take some prying to remove the whole vent assemble? 3) Did you rock it back and forth to get it out - brute force with the slip pliers? 4) your picture showed what looks like a rubber o-ring holding it in - it that correct? Thanks for the comments.

My 08 Ford Service manual says to fill the PTU to the bottom of the fill hole. Every time I see an Edge or MKX on the road, I feel like stopping them to tell them about changing the oil in their PTU.

I was wrong in my previous assumption that the heat shield was aluminum. It looks and feels that way but I had it off yesterday and tried a magnet on it and it stuck - so it is ferrous metal and a magnet will stick to it. I also added about 3" of extra shielding to the OEM heat shield along the top so the PTU is now completely shielded from the exhaust. Also - I thought I'd share - my mileage seems to have increased after numerous drain & fills' of the PTU now that I have a drain. Shifting feels smoother too and the vehicle somehow feels like there is less drag when driving - maybe my imagination but my wife noticed it as well. Was the oil so thick that is was a load on the engine and made things tougher to run and shifting harder? That would generate heat for sure.

I had a look at a jiggly rear axle vent on my 07 Mustang which looks very similar to the vent on the PTU except it is threaded in and not pressed in (I removed because it was puking some oil on the axle - so I installed a turkey baster vent - Ford TSB). The old jiggly vent only allows venting out and does not allow air to come back in - so much like a check valve. So I'm betting it's the same with the PTU vent. So that might explain the sucking sound after the oil cools - it vents the pressure build up when hot, then when it cools, a vacuum is created. Next time I drain the PTU, I'll try blowing a bit of air with my air compressor ( pressure turned down) into the drain on the PTU with the plug installed and see if I can feel or hear the air venting from the PTU vent. Will update with findings.

Yes I think that's because of numerous complaints, Ford then made it user selectable.

Well it's not just salt spray that causes the problem. It also occurs (can't be just me) when following another vehicle or from an oncoming vehicle and you get the light road spray from them too which probably contains road grime and some dirt etc.. Mostly you (or at least I) spray just enough washer on the windshield to clean it and then want the wipers to stop - just in time without streaking - sort of a timing thing. This extra wipe 2 seconds (or whatever it is) later very often causes smearing or streaking because there isn't enough fluid to wash the crap off effectively - like a semi dry wipe which spreads the dirt requiring another cycle of wash/wipe etc. etc.. I would REALLY like to turn it off - but I can't on my '08.

I have changed the fluid - about 4 times now - and still coming out black but much thinner than originally. The last time I changed it I noticed a sucking should when I removed the fill plug - to me indicating that when the fluid heated up, it expanded and 'may' have vented. Then when it cooled, is shrunk and my guess the sucking sound is because the vent is not letting air back into the PTU housing. So I want to pull the vent and clean it. I can reach and touch the vent from under the vehicle but can't see it, and I tried to pry it out with a screwdriver. But it isn't coming out and I don't want to break it without a back-up plan. So I was hoping that someone would have some info on a possible removal method (pry out with a screwdriver hopefully) - other than removing the PTU which I don't want to do. Popping it out, cleaning it and re-installing once I verify it's operation is my plan - but that is just not working out as I hoped (yet).

Thanks AKirby The Fordparts.com site doesn't allow international orders. Grrrrr. (I guess the wall that Trump wants to build already exists - oh wait that was for Mexico lol.) The part costs ~$75 so that is about $100 in Canadian Peso's. Then there is shipping, duties & taxes etc. so probably I should bend over for the local dealer. I tried Levittown and they are closed for the day of course. I went to a few tranny shops to see if they know how hard the vent is to take out with out breaking it. They don't know. They just change lots of PTU's and they don't know anything about changing the oil, installing a drain to refill, and didn't know about adding a vent. I was hoping to have a look at one to see what it actually looks like and see how to pull it out. I got more good info from this site than from the tranny repair/replace guys. One guy said changing the oil wouldn't help much because the problem is that it gets puked out the vent. He seemed to think that a TSB existed to lower the level in the TSB so it would puke out. But that doesn't make sense to me because if the PTU was over filled and puked some oil out, it would come to an equilibrium at a 'non-puking' level and be good. But the oil turns to sludge and that can't lube the parts. To me over heating is the problem because of a lack of lubrication so changing it regularly should help. He didn't seem to understand that the oil turns to sludge and doesn't lube the bearings. Thanks again.

The local Ford dealer said that the PTU's are the same in the '10 Taurus and the '08 MKX - so the TSB can apply and the vent P/N will work on my PTU. Has anyone sourced this vent from somewhere? The local dealer wants $140 for it and 10 days delivery. I'd like to try getting it cheaper. Also - the real problem is removing the old vent and cleaning it - If I can do that, that is really all I would like to do Does anyone know how to remove it with out breaking it?

Thanks for that TSB but it says it is for a Taurus - I don't know if that applies to the MKX (Edge) or not.

I called the Ford dealer and they don't have a P/N to replace the OEM vent, they don't know how to remove it, nor do they know about a extension vent kit. Does anyone have P/N's for either of these items?

I think I read that the PTU vent can be removed by prying it out. Is that right? When I took my drain plug out I heard a sucking sound which indicates that the PTU is not venting properly I believe. I tried using a screwdriver to pry it out and it won't come out and I don't want to break it. Could someone please confirm that I am on the right track? I don't want to break it. Perhaps I'll go to Ford and see if they have one to replace it or perhaps the vent that goes up to the top of the engine bay. Thanks

From Wikipedia - "National Pipe Thread taper is a US standard for tapered threads used on threaded pipe and fittings. In contrast to standard threads found on bolts and nuts, a tapered thread will pull tight and therefore make a fluid tight seal". You need an NPT tap to make these threads in the PTU so the plug, which also has NPT threads, will tighten up when it is turned in. Generally all pipe is threaded as NPT - not like nuts and bolts. The sizes don't seem to make sense though. I got a 1/4" plug and a 1/4" tap but needed a 7/16" drill bit as the hole size for the tap to thread properly. So when the plug is out, the hole size is almost 1/2" so it drains out quite nicely.

Read the other PTU posts - lots of very detailed info there. There is one with pictures that is immensely helpful to get the location. I used 1/4" NPT and all went well. Have you done it yet?

You really should learn to DIY. It is so easy. Save $100. Trans-gender bathrooms - we need lots up here with the seven sexes. LGBTQ and of course M & F. When will this end?

I'd consider changing the belt but IMO the hoses should be fine. Check them for cracks and bulging though. Also you should change all the fluids. In addition to the coolant, you should consider: transmission (drain and fill), bleed the brakes, suck out the PS reservoir and refill, rear diff, and very important - the PTU.

I've fought with some 4 stroke engines and cleaned the carbs out and they work fine. I have tried Seafoam but can't really say I thought it made a difference. Other engines I cleaned out and they have not worked very well afterwards and I attribute it to the linkages that attach to the governor or maybe I did a lousy job cleaning - who knows. I've had lots of luck with the cheapy engines from Harbour Freight as replacements. On all engines I have, I put in a filter and a shut off valve. When I want to put them away, I run them dry - either by closing the valve or just running it out of gas. Keeps the fuel from coating the carb and causing problems. I have a 25 year old craftsman lawnmower and have done that run dry thing since new and it still starts on the first pull.

The head rests seem to be too far forward and my neck gets sore from it being as far forward as it seems to be. My Envoy and Mustang don't feel that same and I think it is because they are back just a bit. On a long drive it gets horrible. If I could tilt them back just a bit that would make such a difference. I consider taking them out and bending the tubes that go into the seat backs but If I got them crooked and not get them back in I'd be screwed. I like head rests since I was rear ended many years ago. Saved lots of whiplash.

We have an 08 MKX - and Edge with lipstick. It's my wife's vehicle and she likes it. It has been somewhat trouble free - an ABS sensor has gone bad and that was under warranty and lately the heated/cooled front seat module failed and is too expensive to replace. I changed the brakes at 75,000 miles and regular engine oil changes and lately I've been draining and refilling the transmission and thanks to this forum, I installed a drain plug in the PTU and will start to do very regular drain and fills of that. Having said that I dislike this vehicle and much prefer my GMC Envoy for the following reasons: 1) My biggest complaint is that I find the front seats VERY uncomfortable. I think it is the headrest which, IMO, is too far forward and I get a sore neck after an hour of driving. No other vehicle seems to be as uncomfortable as these front seats are because of this headrest. 2) The Sync system is horrible. A common complaint and we NEVER use the voice commands because it was clumsy and we now just don't use it. Apparently a very common complaint with this Microsoft based system. I think the newer systems use Blackberry and that makes it better but I don't have any experience with those. 3) I really dislike the 'courtesy wipe' on the wipers - and it is not programmable to disable and the dealer can't change it either. 4) I also dislike the 'auto off' of the heated and cooled seats. Since the module failed, I installed an aftermarket heated seat pad which stays on as long as I choose. 5) We have the Vista Roof - so no option for roof rack. Why not? Put some spacers in so opening the roof won't break the glass which I hear requires a mortgage to replace. 6) Lousy mileage. My Envoy does better. 3.5 versus 4.0 in the Envoy and the Envoy is more of a real 4WD. 7) Electric fold down pushbuttons for the rear seat has failed - but not a biggie. 8) Drive system feels clunky if driven aggressively. Hopefully the tranny is not about to fail. This also could have been the PTU (before oil drain and fills). We don't drive it aggressively because of this and no banging or clunking since the PTU oil changes. 9) We have the NAV system and the address entry seems backward. I have a Garmin that is much more intuitive. We're used to this NAV however. The other complaint is the expensive DVD NAV disk. Fortunately E-Bay has vendors that sell for less than the 1-800 number that comes up. Garmin has lifetime updates. 10) No Rear camera. The newer ones have these and Ford could have included this. However, having said the things above, it does seem to be fairly well built other than the PTU which I hopefully resolved any issues with regular oil changes and a drain plug. Things I notice that are good are: 1) Clean oil after 5000 miles so not much contamination from sloppy engine components, 2) No oil consumption at the regular oil change intervals. 3) Steering is still pretty tight and no play in it. It does have a decent road handling feel. 4) I like the spare tire under the back cover and is not outside under the vehicle to get all crudded up (like the Envoy). 5) Decent visibility. 6) Newer vehicles are getting away from Tranny dipsticks so you can't change the oil yourself. This one still has the dipstick and a drain plug.

Yeah you're right - minimal oil and some torque from switching between FWD and AWD will generate heat. What brainiac came up with this design. I'm surprised the cooled ones fail too. Heat is an oil killer. Hopefully regular drain and fills will make a dramatic difference and make it last forever LOL.

I see the new PTU's on some new vehicles have a temperature probe. It would be interesting to see what 'our' PTU's temperature gets up to. To me the PTU is very similar to the rear differential - no clutches but just gears (I think) so I wonder why that is a source of heat - ie why would the PTU generate more heat than the Diff. I recently changed my diff fluid also (while adding the PTU drain) and the diff oil was like new - golden and clear and it has never been changed (till now). The PTU on the other hand was typical - like grease and still black after a few drain and fills. Makes me wonder where the heat is actually coming from - internal or from the exhaust. There is a heat shield protecting the PTU from the exhaust for a reason. I also read on other places that on police vehicles that are AWD and have a PTU, Ford installs a cooler for the PTU. Now that would be an interesting mod - now that I have a drain and fill port, all I need are 2 hoses, a pump and a cooler!

Ford is well known for not acknowledging or fixing design problems and they happily pass the joy to the consumer. Unless the issue is safety related and the government forces a recall, consumers are SOL. Other Ford 'better ideas" are a 2 piece spark plug which breaks off in the heads if you try to remove them. Actually they came up with a 'Broken SparkPlug removal too' it was so bad. This was prevalent on the 4.6 and 5.4 Triton engines from 05-07. Fortunately, if you pull the plugs before the mileage gets too high and before the plugs get seized in because of carbon build up holding the plug in, you can either replace with an aftermarket 1 piece plug or put some anti-seize on the snouts of the plugs to make future removal easier. I took my Mustang to the stealership to inquire about this issue and the service advisor just laughed and said it would cost $600 to replace the plugs if none broke and up to $1000 if they all broke. I did it myself very gently. Another issue is aluminum hood corrosion on the front lip on Mustangs' hoods where there could be some steel filings in the folded over portion. This causes galvanic corrosion which eventually corrodes and blisters the paint - poor prepping when being manufactured. They sand it over and re-paint but of course it comes back. Only real recourse is to replace the hood with aftermarket one. No corrosion warranty coverage from Ford. Makes me wonder about buying a new all aluminum body F-150. I'm sure there are many other issues too.