cal3thousand

the wiring however will not be there

of course it won't.

But that's got to be the easiest thing in the world to wire. One line for ground and the other piggyback to the turn signal wire (plenty of places to tap from the drivers side all the way to the headlight housing).

It might take an extra 10 minutes ...

All I've figured out about that is that it's a damned map and nothing else.

I've figured out that my update to V2.8 has jacked up my screen. when I hit the 'i' button on the main screen, I don't get the screen I used to.

I'm going to run out to my car and snap a photo soon. If anyone could post theirs for comparison it would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT:

Here's what my screen looks like... look at the left side, the bar there looks shifted up too high and there should be a couple options above that are missing:

I have tried aftermarket intakes on other vehicles.

The only result was a decrease in my $.

I did not see an increase in MPG.

i think he's asking about power gains or torque curve shift versus efficiency.

Fry, I'm one of those LED flashlight nuts and do a pretty good job keeping up with the latest LED tech. Any idea what kind of LED Ford uses in that light strip? Do you think it's possible to solder a more powerful LED to the board? I was thinking that swapping the single factory LED with a single Cree XML or XPG LED could increase the brightness by a huge margin. If you post a pic of the factory LED over on Candlepowerforums.com, those guys can tell you what type it is. I have a few of the newer Cree XML's in small flashlights that crank out over 300 lumens at 3 amps using a single 4 volt Lithium Ion battery!

I have a few Cree's left from flashlight modding and thought about this too. But the main issue is that it would still be a vertical firing light that depends on the transmission of the diffuser bar.

I'm thinking about putt 4-5 crees in a formation similar to the other bars that some have been installing, but either changing the diffuser OR reflector and adding a driver of some sort.

After following the great post by frybel, here's how I did mine just a bit differently and kept the original diffuser bars intact.

 

Removing the front bumper cover and getting the lights off went a lot easier than I thought it would. The hardest part was figuring out which way to pull on the bumper cover to get it to detach. Once you've removed all the bolts ( I leave a couple still in place on the top so it doesn't fall to the floor) you have to pull the rear part of the bumper cover out from the body, in a direction perpendicular to the side body panel. Once you figure that out, the rest is easy.

 

With the lights off the car, I split them apart to temporarily remove the diffuser, remove enough material for the new LED bar to shine through, etc. In order to remove the front lens, you need to bake the light in a preheated 265 degree oven for 7 minutes. If you're going to try this, make sure you set a timer and stick to the 7 minutes as any longer will make the plastic too soft and you'll end up with a melted mess. (Thanks to the guys over at HidPlanet for that tip!)

 

At the end of 7 minutes, I removed the light and started prying the pieces apart using a wide bladed screwdriver. It takes some effort, so keep at it and they will eventually separate.

 

Once they are apart, I used blue painter's tape to mask offthe aluminized area and to define where I was going to cut.

 

 

 

The diffusers come off easily by grinding away a couple of plasticrivets and then I drilled a couple of 3/8" holes at each end of where the slot was going to be.

 

 

 

I let everything cure overnight and then installed them back into the car. When they are in place, you can't tell that anything's been modified and the original lights work the way they always have. When the new LED bars are switched on, they're a better color match for my 6000K HIDs, are extremely bright, and shine right through the diffuser bar.

 

The only issue that I ran into when I was wiring them up was that the control box wouldn't work (it would turn on for about 30 seconds and then turn off). As far as I can tell, it's expecting a higher battery voltage when the car is running than is being provided (I measured my battery at 13.8V when running and I think the circuitry needs a slightly higher voltage to trigger). I contacted iJDMToy and they're sending out a replacement but I'm doubtful that it will fix the issue.

 

I tried hooking up the LED bars directly to the battery and controlling when they turned on myself but at only 13.8V, the light output is actually pretty low - just a bit brighter than the stock lamps. I measured the control box output when it did work and it's putting out 15.5V so if the replacement control box doesn't work, 'Plan B' is to buy a DC - DC converter something like this and wire it in to provide the necessary voltage.

 

Once everything is working correctly I'll post some pictures with the lamps in operation and how I wired them in to make them work.

Nice work!

Sending from google works wonderfully for me. When you ge tin the car, hit sync and say "services" and then I believe "directions". It says something to the effect of "you sent a destination from Google...."

 

I have also found lack of recognition using the straight nav, so again, I use services. It recognizes what I say 95% of the time. If you are still having trouble, sync now has live operators, no charge. So ask for operator in services and they easily find the info and can send it to your nav.

Ok... I'm on my way home soon (after I finish this spreadsheet)... and I will give it another whirl.

Thanks for saving me a trip to the glovebox

You might want to wait until the 2012 mirrors are available...

they have (supposedly) the turn indicators on them a la Explorer.

Frybel, Great post! Thanks for taking the time, this is exactly what I've been wanting to do also.

 

My questions is...Do you think it was possible to leave the diffuser bar in place and have the new lights simply shine through it? I'm thinking of trying to cut the hole in the back for the new light bar shine through the diffuser and still have the current system light up when the head lights come on (extra light at night). I like the diffuser bar as it also gets a lot of compliments (people don't know if it's neon or what). It just doesn't' come on during the day and is too dim for daylight anyway. Just wondered if you think this might be possible from what you experienced?

It's totally possible. It's actually the way that I will handle this mod. I too feel that the continuous bar of light to be more appealing as opposed to the being able to see the individual units.

Are those only held in place by the silicone?

It sure looks like it.

It wouldn't be difficult to reinforce that, but then again, you probably don't need to with enough silicone.

Yeah, that sending to the car thing has NEVER worked for me. Google says it's sent. The radio says it's received. That's it. No more.

Oh... and while we're on it. They need to fix the Destinations App in Android. It shuts operation if it detects the car is in motion. seriously? what if someone in the back seat were doing it? I can't fully figure that damn thing out yet.

In my 2007 Edge, the larger part of the 60/40 split back seat won't fold down. When I pull the lever, I don't feel the resistance I normally would feel before the latch releases the seat and it folds down. In other words, pulling the lever feels like it would feel if the seat were already down.

 

I'm wondering if some big part will need to be replaced or if there is something I can do to put the seat down for now. I've removed the cover and foam inserts around the spare tire area to try to see more of the mechanism, but it's really hard to tell what's supposed to be going on back there.

 

Does anyone have experience with a similar problem?

Maybe shake the seatback and see if it needs to catch?

Ford considered it but decided it was still too risky since there was no way to know whether it was the driver or the passenger using the system.

 

I thought the 2011s had the ability to enter a destination by voice command?

It does, but it's still cumbersome at times since it will not recognize what you say or find it half the time.

I can say Roscoe's and it won't find what I'm looking for. It won't even get the name right. But if I say Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles, it will get right about 1/3 of the time. The rest of the times it says "Cannot find in your search area" (or something to that effect)

I used to be able to send from Google Maps to my car, but lately I cannot find the function anymore. I guess I need to RTFM again.

Been using MFT for 11 months.

I have a freaky feeling that I will be in a wreck soon. (that sucks) At times I think it's safer to text while driving than to use MyFordTouch.

Give me iDrive please!!!

Sync would be fantastic if it operate EXACTLY as advertised out of the box. Not with 2-3 phones that nobody has.

I wouldn't complain if the reboots / freezes didn't exist AND Text Message over BT worked well ( Can't blame them here as it is phone-driven, but they shouldn't have acted like it was ubiquitous.

I say they have about 7-8 more months to make it right for me and I'll consider keeping the car. If not by then (which will be 1/2 of my lease term), I will decide to get a vehicle without MFT at lease-end.

I've never used the steering wheel buttons to navigate. That would be more painful than the touch screen!

 

update: grammer

You might if you had a scroll wheel.

I used one in an Audi, and it was WAY faster than the touch screen.

I bought my SEL AWD 2011 this month. It has the leather interior, vista roof, keyless entry and sync package... BUT... NOT THE AMBIENT LIGHTING!!! Apparently I didnt specify it... I just thought it came with the sync/nav system...

 

Anyway... I was wondering if anyone had the ambient lighting done after purchase... if its possible, how much would it cost AND... does the mytouch system reconize it afterwards too...

Check this out. You should be able to use it after installing... It might require a dealer update to SYNC... not sure myself:

http://www.partscheap.com/2009-2011-Ford-Edge-Ambient-Light-Kit-p/8l8z-13e700-aa-e09.htm

They could have but why make an extra step to always have to toggle between the two. I like the way they are laid out and I've never hit them by mistake while turning the steering wheel. I don't see how they can get in the way.

They should have made one of those a depress-able scroll wheel for scanning through long lists. I hate having to click through pages with a tiny arrow on the Nav screen when searching for something like a contact or music.

Most modern cars do have a dehumidifier, to take the moisture out. On my previous car, a Jeep Commander, I ran

the dehumidifier during summer, but kept the A/C turned off and it blew out cool air. Saved on gas. It takes in

outside moist air, sucks the moisture out and then blows in cold air.

 

Wish I had a parts manual, but they cost big bucks.

Just run the fan with the A/C button off.

Also, if you are running the DEFROST, some cars seem to kick on the A/C at the same time so you get water from the evaporator drain.

The procedure is in the owner's manual. It's called auto-unlock. However, it won't unlock the doors until you open the driver's door (if it's like the previous models).

It un-locks when you cut the ignition with auto-unlock activated.

It unlocks on driver door unlock. weak.

I just discovered this stuff today. I'm going to do the front grill and rear emblem and possibly the chrome trim on my 2008 black limited. This stuff looks really cool because if you don't like it you just peal it off. You can even paint over it or clear coat it for a shiny finish and still peal it off. Not sure when I'll get around to doing it though, I'll take pics of before and after.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yepjODal1D0

 

If you look on youtube you can find all kinds of vids on it.

MANY have done plastidip mods to their cars. There's even a member here that coated his rims in the stuff and they came out fantastic.

I would test the adhesion and how hard it is to remove on a particular surface before going crazy though.

I did my Volvo 850 grille about 4+ years ago and it still perfect... which is more than I can say for the hood paint surrounding it.

hey members. i bought a 2009 sel edge just over a year ago, it was used and had 27 000 kms. we reset the trip every time we fill up and we would get almost 600 km in city and some highway for most of the first year we owned it and then it started going down now we are lucky to get 300 kms on a tank of gas. We have taken it in many times and also had a mechanic friend check it over and nobody can seem to find any problems. its getting costly to fill up and we need soem ideas?

Have you hooked the car up to a computer during idle to check the fuel trim levels and ignition performance? if you mechanic isn't doing that to diagnose, I agree with others and suggest a new mechanic.

Its weird but NFCU wanted to finance for 8.6% and Suntrust thru ford did it for 3.19%..

 

You would think that a bank that you do all of your other banking with would give you a lower

rate.

Ford subsidized it (one way or another) to get your loan and sale.

There is no difference between paint colors. Protection is protection, shine is shine. Black just shows swirl marks more easily.

It sure does show it a lot better! My brother brought home his black Audi A6 yesterday and I almost fell over with all the swirls on there.

To the OP, if you want an easy regimen, try Ultima Paint Guard Plus. Its a sealant that will last a few months on average and takes about 15 minutes to put on a clean Edge (Has to be uber clean)

Here's a little shot of my paint surface a day later:

Is the 2011 filter in the same location?

affirmative

Hello,

 

I get stained streaks near the door openings and mirrors that seem to come out of the rubber seal under the windows. It's not really greasy and it's really hard to clean.

 

Any idea what is and how to clean it? Am I the only one with this? My old black Cavalier had the same problem under the mirrors.

The Edge seems to catch more crud in there than my previous car, but I like to use a toothbrush along that flap and some soapy water. Usually, its a piece of something (dirt or turd) that's just lodged in there at a couple spots.

Ok so I have read a large portion of the posts here and want to say thanks to all of you have that offered up your knowledge. I have learned so much just reading your input. I do have a question though. I do not have machine buffer, orbital anything. I want to polish my edge after a proper wash and clay treatment to rid it of some swirl marks and some water spots embedded into the hood. Is there a polish that I can do this with that I can do by hand? What products do you recommend? I have no experience with a machine buffer and seriously don't want to screw up the paint. I realize that it could be some extensive work by hand too that might require allot of pressure to get anything close to the same results. Would it just be better to take it to a detailer and let them do it?

If your paint really has defects such has swirling you need to use a machine and polish that will correct the paint. I wouldn't recommend using "elbow grease" on such a large car.

After that though, you could definitely upkeep the paint by hand. I've been using this sealant that supposedly lasts about 4 months. So far I have been amazed with the ease of use and results. Its call Ultima Paint Guard Plus in case you want to check it out.

I'm sure Richy will chime in at some point with some better pointers on detailing.

I know, me too. I love when a thread goes wildly off topic.

Good threads have a life of their own, I say.