cal3thousand

Just did my front brakes-new rotors and pads. Well my brakes now have no power assist at all. My booster hisses even when I get in the car and just start it I hear it hissing. If I push really hard it will whistle. I bled the brakes multiple times, feel that its the booster. Once in a while I will have power assist but other times its a hard pedal and takes alot of force of my foot/leg to stop the car. Did you guys use a Motorcraft one or the Cardone branded one? The motorcraft one is cheaper but I don't want to have the same problem in the future, oh and the car only has 55k on it...Thanks

If the motorcraft is cheaper, go for that one.

Cardone is a rebuilder/remanufacturer, so that unit at best would be a motorcraft unit that was reconditioned by Cardone. (I worked at an Auto Parts store on and off over 10 years and although Cardone is a good rebuilder, they don't manufacture new parts)

Good job! Looks awesome

That looks absolutely sick.

I totally want to black out my lights, but I'm on a lease and have yet to make the ultimate decision.

So, what was all involved in removing the adhesive? Did it just take a lot more baking or was there some more insight involved?

What a great thread!!! I didn't realize how poorly I was treating by baby (and it has only been 2 washes in...). I have had my 2011 Black Sport for a couple weeks now and have not been impressed with my efforts. I was used to a silver car that showed little imperfections but man does this black show everything. My first wash was with a microfiber wash towel, 1 bucket, and a terry cloth towel. My 2nd was with the 2 bucket system, a microfiber mit, and a shammy towel. Big fan of the 2 bucket system after seeing the dirt left in the rinse bucket, but I gotta find a new drying towel and think I am going to order the recommended waffle weave from DI. Is one enough to dry the whole suv or do I need two?

 

Also what is the best exterior window cleaner? It seemed like as I was drying them that there was a film on them that wouldn't come off.

 

I plan on doing a real detailing this fall in preparation for the harsh winter months of Cleveland, OH. After reading this thread I am pretty excited about it.

I have a Cobra Guzzler waffle weave (green) that dries my whole car. Granted, that is during ONR washes that don't take much drying OR after sheeting the water off with a hose. The WW towel isn't soaked afterwards either, it just feels damp.

If you have "buckets" of water standing on your car after washing, you might want use a second towel.

Thanks cal3thousand.

The finish on my car still looks like I just got it from the showroom floor, so I guess I can easily skip the initial steps.But do you know what the compound & glaze is all about? If the car's finish is still in pretty decent shape and I have already put on an initial sealant (dealership), should I just wait another year or so before doing it again?

 

~SacAZN

Compounding is for severely damaged paint. It's like half way between polishing and wet sanding. You are "cutting" with a compound to level the paint. Definitely no need.

Glaze is another coating that usually goes on before wax.

If your car looks like its showroom fresh, do what I did:

With the money that you would spend on a detail, spend it on detail products that will carry you for awhile.

I bought a nice set of Microfiber towels ~ $50

32OZ. Optimum No Rinse (ONR) - $16

some spray bottles ~ $20

2 buckets ~ $15

ultima paint guard plus (UPGP) - $40

I use the ONR (1-1.5oz to 2 Gallons) with 2 buckets to wash the car in my carport. Washing one panel at a time, I dry each section as I finish washing it. One bucket holds the ONR solution and the other is your rinse bucket. Rinse in the Rinse bucket and drop the Mitt back into the ONR bucket while you dry.

I have a spray bottle of ONR mixed to double what they say for Quick Detailer Strength and I use that as clay lube. After you dry each section, inspect for sections that may need claying (any imperfections that did not wash off). Clay it and dry the section. Make sure to use a Waffle Weave towel for drying. And DO NOT drop your towel. Treat it like prison soap! Any dirt that contacts it will tend to stick and you will end up scratching paint.

You could complete the wash and clay in 45 minutes to an hour. The beauty of ONR is you do one section at a time and can stop and restart at any point.

If you do need to polish (which I doubt) the time would be now.

I just started with the UPGP at this point. This stuff is easy as all heck to use and one bottle will last 5 years if you did your car every week in it. It takes about 15-20 minutes to cover the Edge in this stuff. Basically, you spritz the applicator 2 times to prime it. Then you coat your car in this stuff. It goes on clear and you need to make sure every bit it covered. Your hood for example with take 2 primer spritzes and maybe 2 or 3 more. Whole car takes like 15 spritzes or something.

If you don't want to use UPGP, there's plenty other sealants and waxes you could try. Wax will last 1 month, while this stuff lasts about 4 months. Do a search on it and see for yourself.

PM me if you want to chat about it. Here's a pic of my hood paint surface after the second application of this stuff:

There are 4 bolts to remove the headlamp , before you do that you have to take the fascia off.

Front fascia takes 15 minutes to remove.

Most of the work here is splitting the lights, modding and reassembling. 8 hours is a good estimate, but it's not 8 solid hours of work.

Could be done 4 hours if you are proficient.

the new edge has four power points to power accessories. Nice except the acessories I plugged into my 2007 edge don't work with the new edge. That includes my I touch and my cooler. Did ford change what plugs work on the néw one. What acessories can be powered by the new edge.

You're talking about 12V electrical outlets? I don't see how they could have changed to not work with devices as it is based on a standard.

Tires are a major contributing factor for NVH. Especially as they age, some tires do not hold up as well as others.

I don't have specific experience with these tires

Im on the Ford Web Site and building my next edge, First, its for a 2011 not a 2012. I selected Limited AWD, 301A package. Then I find the only exterior colors are Black, Kona Blue, White and Silver. Is this correct?? What happened to the reds, earth and Bordeaux reserve red matallic?

Lenny

I thought ordering for 2011 was ceased.

On top of that, some colors are on hold due to Japanese sourced metallic flake (Candy Red Metallic especially).

Maybe the other ones were cancelled due to lack of popularity. I sure wish they would have made the 2011 with Carbon Metallic.

Hi CanuckG35,

 

I have been trying to find a reputable professional detailer to perform this magic on my new 2011 Platinum White Edge Limited and I have noticed that most of them does all the work in ONE day (generally 6-8 hours). That said, you have said that the order of detailing should be 1) WASH, 2) DRY, 3) CLAY, 4) POLISH and 5) SEAL. however some of the detailers I have been looking at does it like this" 1) Clay, 2) Compound (if needed), 3) Polish, 4) Glaze, 5) Paint Sealant, 6) Carnuba wax.

 

What is the compound & glaze part of the job entail? Also, if I recollect properly, you recommend that the car be allowed to sit for 24 hours before the final procedure is done. How will skipping that part and doing it all in one day effect the final finish?

 

Lastly, what is a fair price range to detail a vehicle like our Edge?

 

Thanks so much for your invaluable information!

Sac AZN

Don't want to jump CanuckG35's answer, but with such a new car you might not need much of a polish. If Claybar is necessary, than a light polish might be in order after to take car of micro marring.

Unless you have lots of marring, I would Wash and Spot clay, dry, polish as necessary, then seal. If you don't want to use a sealant, you can glaze and wax or just wax.

Does anyone have information on how to properly maintain a car's paint that has been treated with Simoniz ClassCoat?

 

I worked at a used car lot for about 10 years and detailed, maintained, fixed, painted, and even sold cars but I never had any experience with the product.

 

I just traded in my 2007 Civic Si sedan and bought a new 2011 Edge Limited and had them apply the Simoniz ClassCoat (sounds like a great product and the car looks great!).

 

Can/should you still wax as often as you normally would?

Can you use that CQuartz stuff that I have seen talked about on this forum or would that defeat the purpose of Simoniz?

 

Feel free to share your experiences and any input you can provide me. Links to Web sites on products that work great with Simoniz or information on Simoniz is appreciated!

 

Thanks,

BHallzy4

 

 

It sounds like this Simoniz GlassCoat is similar to the CQuartz in what it does. But they seem very secretive on what it actually contains.

You can still use waxes, but it seems like you have a semi permanent sealant on there already.

How does it do after washing? does the water bead and sheet off?

I think it looks great. How many coats is that?

More coats will smooth out the finish.

Also... did you push the LEDs in entirely... I was able to get all 6 leds to light up by only pushing them in only enough... however... Im wondering if it really is enough so that they dont pop out...

I didn't push them in too much. IIRC, they wanted to sit even deeper in the groove, but I didn't feel that was going to make a good connection.

If you shake the housing with your hand before popping them back into the car, you can assure yourself of the connection. Unless you're going offroading, if it survives the shake test, it should stay while driving.

 

Hi. I did as directed.

 

I flipped the left side casing over (drivers side) and made the little wedge. however.. If I dont flip the leff side casing over then both lights point the same direction...When I flip the casing the left side LED points outwards (towards the street) and the right side LED points inwards (towards the plate). Im not sure how you placed the leds so that the light distribution is balanced.

 

I took some pics of my results

Mine do the same thing. You can't really tell the difference on mine versus before. In the OE configuration, light was skewed to one side more.

I can't really see the difference currently, so I don't mess with it any more. I'm sure there's a way to turn the bulbs... Just not sure it's quite worth the work.

bump....anyone?

I can't answer from direct experience. But here's what I know (or think I know )

1) Fuse #35 with a fuse tap kit (hint: search on amazon)

2) Find a exhaust shop that will let you try a couple fitments to test out how it would sound. If you are looking for a mild upgrade, let me suggest swapping out the rear collectors for a straight through design such as Magnaflow.

3) When you use wider tires, your handling won't be "ruined", but it will definitely change. Generally, slalom type maneuvers will suffer, but your lateral grip should increase slightly. You'll hold the road better, but quick switch back moves will suffer due to the wider contact patch. Additionally, the extra weight of wider rubber will have an effect on acceleration. Check the difference in tire weight to be sure you can live with it.

Are you able to push voice button and get results when you say "Services" ?

 

You are on 2.8?? Is it time for 2.11?

Just updated to v2.8 last month ... looks like it's time for v2.11.

I tried using voice, but when I say "services" I just get this screen we see here.

I just purchased a tuxedo black, fully loaded 2010 Edge Sport and I love it! The exterior looks awesome, and the ride is smooth and comfortable. You won't be disappointed. I saw the improvements on the 2011, and fell in love as well...but I just couldn't pass up the incentives on the 2010's.

 

Looks awesome. If I had to get a 2010, it would have been a black Sport model.

Best MP3 player I've used is my phone: MyTouch 4G aka HTC Glacier.

It does Pandora, Grooveshark, Google Music, MP3s, YouTube etc etc all through Bluetooth and all skip able using the touchscreen or steering wheel controls.

I have a 2010 FWD and I get about 11.7L/100km with mixed city and urban driving with the air on with an average speed of 40KM/H

With air off in the spring I get about 10.5L/100km. At highway speed 100K/H with cruise on I can get 8L/km, air off just me and the Mrs.

This is why I wish Google Translate could quickly translate between US measures and everyone else's within a chunk of text.

 

 

...Surely to God by the time Ford rolls MFT out on other cars in 2012 they will have a stable system...

I'm hoping and praying for this. Because I really enjoy the car otherwise. I've also been modding it slightly (all easily reversible so far, but I don't want to put $400 worth of tint on the thing yet as I'm not 100% sure on keeping at Lease-end)

Guys,

 

I need to replace the windshield washer nozzles. Do I need to use original Ford nozzles (probably cost a small fortune) or can I install aftermarket parts?

 

Thanks,

 

Ed

Aftermarket will work. Beware though, the spray pattern on the stock ones is pretty good. If you get aftermarket, make sure the spray pattern is fan-like and will cover your glass properly. Nothing worse than not having enough fluid on parts while too much on others.

My plan is to take mine off, and give them a coat or two of touch up paint to body match them.

Can either one of you tell me off the about how long the section you cut out was?

I'm guessing about 6 inches, but I don't want to walk out to the car right now its 80 degrees out. Sorry to those experiencing any hotter.

EDIT: I'm also nominating this thread for sticky stardom!

You are missing the top button "SYNC Services". That's the screen that has the big arrow on it

Thanks for confirming that one.

Looks like I'm going back for another update. I'll let them know this one didn't take properly.

im reallly thinking of doing this to my wheels... i was going to get some nice black 20's but just found out i have another kid on the way so that went out the door...

 

my only worry is that it will start peeling off after have the car washed...

It won't peel from washing.

I've washed my volvo grille a hundred times and its still like the day I painted it.

I havent played with clarion in many years. I have always had good results with pioneer, kenwood, and alpine. However i do like the fact that the nx501 all the connections are done via seperate plugs in the back. so if you dont need that function dont hook it up and keep it clean behind the radio (ex: no amps leave the rca plug out). i know that if you dont mind spending a little more and get like a pioneer they have radios with built in bluetooth and some of the other functions you may have to add with this clarion.

I'm with ya right there. Pioneers strike a REAL good balance of price, performance, features and reliability. I've never been disappointed in Pio's. But I'm not a Full-Freak Audiophile either...