Fingernip

Yeah that sounds like an actual physical source. Mine only occurs during acceleration, like throttle feedback through the sound system. Its only heard in the cabin

I have a high pitched noise. I believe it is the active noise cancellation. Some stray off frequency tone its generating when attempting to cancel engine noise. I plan to deactivate via forscan to test my theory.

Yup should be. Mine was covered still and my extended warranty also would cover it.

I had a full RDU replacement after it starting groaning during turns. It never developed a clunk but I could feel driveline resistance when it was groaning. It took about 2 weeks to get the replacement RDU and 6 hours to install.

Yes it has both and they are controlled by the same module. Disabling 1 disables them both.

Early 2019 builds had very noticeable engine noise amplification. I test drove an early build and hated how obvious it was. My November 2018 build 2019 does not have it and in fact I cant tell if it is turned down lower or nonexistent.

I had something somewhat similar with mine. It bucked under light acceleration and turned out to be converter lockup failure. They disabled TC lockup and test drove it to prove it out and the bucking was gone. Ended up getting a new torque converter and problem solved.

Nope your right it is 3 year. battery was only 6 months though so shouldn't have been a problem. My old AutoZone dualasts were the lifetime. Turns out that Advanced doesn't honor web purchase warranties in store.... they did a customer return and I had to buy a new battery at current price, They managed to use competitor price match to keep the price the same though. Problem seems to be the case was cracked at the positive pole possibly causing oxidization. New battery installed and all is fine again.

Yeah I'm taking it to advanced where I got the battery. Its got a lifetime replacement.

SO the last few days I had the car fail to start after returning from a week vacation. I couldn't get a good battery voltage reading, meter showed 8.9V and im sure that was not correct. I pulled the battery and tossed it on my charger but had to run out for 30 mins. I came back it it showed fully charged. Battery tested 12.6V after resting it for 30 mins so i re-installed and car started fine. The next day the car barely started after work and auto stop/start is disabled. No system warnings or errors, even when checking with a scan tool. I suspect the new battery is a dud and cant supply enough amps.

Any evidence its been touched before? I would look at bolt heads at the thermostat housing. Possibly was previously tuned and a lower temp thermostat installed then removed by the previous owner. Could be air locked if that's the case.

I did the 8 hour method. Let it sit undisturbed for 8 hours. I can try FORscan later also. Never did the brake pedal method before but I guess it wont hurt.

In the last 2 days I have had my auto stop/start fail to restart the car twice. The first time it happened I was at a light and when it turned green I got a system chime and a fault message saying "Checking braking system". The car did not restart and i was forced to put it in park and hit the start button. Car started normal and no faults were stored. Auto stop/start then operated normally for the remainder of the day. The next day I stopped at a light and auto stop triggered, I had a hunch it was going to do it again so before the light turned green i lifted my foot off the brake and got a blinking battery light with no chime. I set it to park and it started normal and operated normal for the rest of the day. Battery is 3 months old and shows 12.6V as it should and no other obvious issues to indicate a battery problem. Anyone have similar problems?

Same thing happened to mine. Also went into deep sleep a few times. No auto stop/start for months now either.

Hopefully its not the same problem I'm having. I believe the viscus coupler at the RDU is failing or the RDU itself. During driveshaft engagement and disengagement it had a grumble/grind and sometimes a thud. Its most noticeable during light acceleration around a turn and when coming to a stop. Slowly gotten worse and is now to the point where I'm feeling drag from the rear end. Dealership attempted a TSB reflash and it just got worse. Also have a leaking oil pan and waiting a updated oil pan replacement. Oil leak got so bad its burning on the exhaust.