Fingernip

Didn't they also remove the touch sensors on the rear doors at some point?

My typical average with nearly 100% stop and go and only a 3 mile commute is 17mpg. Driving to the Cape (160 miles each way) usually with cruise set and locked onto a 80+ mph "lead car" I average 27mpg.

Is this a US spec edge? My 2019 has the additional cooling for the PTU. All marketing material listed it as a liquid cooled PTU for the ST in my region (Newengland)

Yeah that sounds like an actual physical source. Mine only occurs during acceleration, like throttle feedback through the sound system. Its only heard in the cabin

I have a high pitched noise. I believe it is the active noise cancellation. Some stray off frequency tone its generating when attempting to cancel engine noise. I plan to deactivate via forscan to test my theory.

Yup should be. Mine was covered still and my extended warranty also would cover it.

I had a full RDU replacement after it starting groaning during turns. It never developed a clunk but I could feel driveline resistance when it was groaning. It took about 2 weeks to get the replacement RDU and 6 hours to install.

Yes it has both and they are controlled by the same module. Disabling 1 disables them both.

Early 2019 builds had very noticeable engine noise amplification. I test drove an early build and hated how obvious it was. My November 2018 build 2019 does not have it and in fact I cant tell if it is turned down lower or nonexistent.

I had something somewhat similar with mine. It bucked under light acceleration and turned out to be converter lockup failure. They disabled TC lockup and test drove it to prove it out and the bucking was gone. Ended up getting a new torque converter and problem solved.

Nope your right it is 3 year. battery was only 6 months though so shouldn't have been a problem. My old AutoZone dualasts were the lifetime. Turns out that Advanced doesn't honor web purchase warranties in store.... they did a customer return and I had to buy a new battery at current price, They managed to use competitor price match to keep the price the same though. Problem seems to be the case was cracked at the positive pole possibly causing oxidization. New battery installed and all is fine again.

Yeah I'm taking it to advanced where I got the battery. Its got a lifetime replacement.

SO the last few days I had the car fail to start after returning from a week vacation. I couldn't get a good battery voltage reading, meter showed 8.9V and im sure that was not correct. I pulled the battery and tossed it on my charger but had to run out for 30 mins. I came back it it showed fully charged. Battery tested 12.6V after resting it for 30 mins so i re-installed and car started fine. The next day the car barely started after work and auto stop/start is disabled. No system warnings or errors, even when checking with a scan tool. I suspect the new battery is a dud and cant supply enough amps.

Any evidence its been touched before? I would look at bolt heads at the thermostat housing. Possibly was previously tuned and a lower temp thermostat installed then removed by the previous owner. Could be air locked if that's the case.

I did the 8 hour method. Let it sit undisturbed for 8 hours. I can try FORscan later also. Never did the brake pedal method before but I guess it wont hurt.