Fingernip

At around 45k miles mine developed a pop noise similar to what the OP described. It sounded like someone tapping an empty soda bottle on the ground. It occurred when coming to a stop or lightly accelerating. I could reproduce it easily at low speed and sometimes even on the highway. Dealer claimed it was a loose axle nut. It stopped for a week and started again. Never figured it out.

Looking to Locally sell parts from my 2019 Edge ST. I prefer local pickup if possible. Weather tech cargo mat - $50 J&L (JLT) Catch can - $50 Ronin Drain Plug - $20 Boomba Blow off valve adapter - $50

They use it in the F150 but not the edge. The 1st gen is also called nano but the 2nd gen is only in the F150, bronco and ranger.

Didn't they also remove the touch sensors on the rear doors at some point?

My typical average with nearly 100% stop and go and only a 3 mile commute is 17mpg. Driving to the Cape (160 miles each way) usually with cruise set and locked onto a 80+ mph "lead car" I average 27mpg.

Is this a US spec edge? My 2019 has the additional cooling for the PTU. All marketing material listed it as a liquid cooled PTU for the ST in my region (Newengland)

Yeah that sounds like an actual physical source. Mine only occurs during acceleration, like throttle feedback through the sound system. Its only heard in the cabin

I have a high pitched noise. I believe it is the active noise cancellation. Some stray off frequency tone its generating when attempting to cancel engine noise. I plan to deactivate via forscan to test my theory.

Yup should be. Mine was covered still and my extended warranty also would cover it.

I had a full RDU replacement after it starting groaning during turns. It never developed a clunk but I could feel driveline resistance when it was groaning. It took about 2 weeks to get the replacement RDU and 6 hours to install.

Yes it has both and they are controlled by the same module. Disabling 1 disables them both.

Early 2019 builds had very noticeable engine noise amplification. I test drove an early build and hated how obvious it was. My November 2018 build 2019 does not have it and in fact I cant tell if it is turned down lower or nonexistent.

I had something somewhat similar with mine. It bucked under light acceleration and turned out to be converter lockup failure. They disabled TC lockup and test drove it to prove it out and the bucking was gone. Ended up getting a new torque converter and problem solved.

Nope your right it is 3 year. battery was only 6 months though so shouldn't have been a problem. My old AutoZone dualasts were the lifetime. Turns out that Advanced doesn't honor web purchase warranties in store.... they did a customer return and I had to buy a new battery at current price, They managed to use competitor price match to keep the price the same though. Problem seems to be the case was cracked at the positive pole possibly causing oxidization. New battery installed and all is fine again.

Yeah I'm taking it to advanced where I got the battery. Its got a lifetime replacement.

SO the last few days I had the car fail to start after returning from a week vacation. I couldn't get a good battery voltage reading, meter showed 8.9V and im sure that was not correct. I pulled the battery and tossed it on my charger but had to run out for 30 mins. I came back it it showed fully charged. Battery tested 12.6V after resting it for 30 mins so i re-installed and car started fine. The next day the car barely started after work and auto stop/start is disabled. No system warnings or errors, even when checking with a scan tool. I suspect the new battery is a dud and cant supply enough amps.

Any evidence its been touched before? I would look at bolt heads at the thermostat housing. Possibly was previously tuned and a lower temp thermostat installed then removed by the previous owner. Could be air locked if that's the case.

I did the 8 hour method. Let it sit undisturbed for 8 hours. I can try FORscan later also. Never did the brake pedal method before but I guess it wont hurt.

In the last 2 days I have had my auto stop/start fail to restart the car twice. The first time it happened I was at a light and when it turned green I got a system chime and a fault message saying "Checking braking system". The car did not restart and i was forced to put it in park and hit the start button. Car started normal and no faults were stored. Auto stop/start then operated normally for the remainder of the day. The next day I stopped at a light and auto stop triggered, I had a hunch it was going to do it again so before the light turned green i lifted my foot off the brake and got a blinking battery light with no chime. I set it to park and it started normal and operated normal for the rest of the day. Battery is 3 months old and shows 12.6V as it should and no other obvious issues to indicate a battery problem. Anyone have similar problems?

Same thing happened to mine. Also went into deep sleep a few times. No auto stop/start for months now either.

Hopefully its not the same problem I'm having. I believe the viscus coupler at the RDU is failing or the RDU itself. During driveshaft engagement and disengagement it had a grumble/grind and sometimes a thud. Its most noticeable during light acceleration around a turn and when coming to a stop. Slowly gotten worse and is now to the point where I'm feeling drag from the rear end. Dealership attempted a TSB reflash and it just got worse. Also have a leaking oil pan and waiting a updated oil pan replacement. Oil leak got so bad its burning on the exhaust.

I'm getting a low frequency grumble or a series of thuds at around 13mph or so. I suspect it is the RDU when the driveshaft either disengages or engages. It can be felt on accel and decel and is sometimes accompanied by a torque vectoring sensation as if a rear wheel may be getting more power than it should. It only lasts a moment but has become more and more obvious. The grumble can be heard/felt even over bassy music at volume level 10 with the B&O system. I'm dropping the car off soon to have the leaking oil pan fixed for the 3rd time (1st time TSB was not accomplished, 2nd time they blamed my Ronin oil plug). I plan to show them in a test drive and see what they think.

I run 93 only. I always have tons of stop and shop gas reward points so I generally only pay $35-40 per tank.

I find the auto start/stop to be very tolerable in my edge. Rented a HRV and the "idle stop" was awful. The car shook and hesitated badly on restart and it lacked so much power already that it made just staying with traffic impossible. My edge its fairly unnoticed when it shuts off and restarts are quick and cause very minimal acceleration delay.