fishx65

Been using Zaino for years but I'm just now learning about waterless wash and quick detail sprays. I've tried Griots waterless wash and Meguires Final Inspection. I like the Griots but did not care for the FI. My question: What is a good quick detail spray, available locally, to use between my 3 to 4 "Zainoings" each year? Will using a certain type of detail spray effect the bonding ability of the next coat of Zaino? Is there a spray wax I can use that won't effect my next coat of Zaino? What about Griots Speed Shine? Also, I've been thinking about trying Duragloss 105 instead of Zaino Z2.

I agree but have been a Hack for the last 30 years!

I noticed the same thing on my 2011. A clay bar with some lube will do the trick.

If ya make a small sub box with a single 8 or 10, it's very easy to remove when you need the extra room. I've been doing this with a single 10 box that I built back in 2003 for a new F150. The box I built is down firing with 2 inch legs so the sub is well protected. I'm a little picky so I always change the carpet covering to match whatever vehicle it's going in.

I just did the fronts a few days ago with a set of 6 1/2 inch Infinitys and the difference is incredible compared to the stock featherweights. I like the specs on the Polks and would guess they sound pretty good with the stock head unit. My next addition is gonna be a boxed single 10 that has been following me from vehicle to vehicle for a long time. Got a ton of old high-end amps laying around so all I need to purchase is a MTX REQ. I've always just run mids and tweets for the front stage along with a sub. Never liked the added sound that comes from a set of rear door speakers so I'll just disconnect them.

It's very easy to get to the front door speakers on the 2011. Maybe pull a speaker and see what it looks and feels like. I would guess that the factory Sony's are junk and big improvements could be made by replacing them. Even a mid-priced set of coaxials installed up front should do wonders for sound quality. I would hope that Ford would not use the same junk speakers I just found in my 2011 SEL in the upgraded Sony system.

2011 SEL with basic 1 disc stereo. Had some time today so I decided to throw in a set of old Infinitys I had laying around cuz I couldn't take the terrible sound any longer. The factory speakers are so bad that I can't understand what anyone is saying when I have my cellphone hardwired in. Could not believe that Ford would even think of using the factory speakers I found in the doors. They have plastic baskets and are the cheapest junk I've ever seen!!!! I've never even seen a speaker with a plastic basket! If you have a 2011 with basic stereo, your ears will be very happy if you get the stock speakers out of there. Even without an amp, the 652i Infinitys I put in sound unbelievable compared to the junk stockers.

Reading this thread reminded me of many moons ago. I puchased a new Mustang GT back in 1987 and one of the 1st things I did was install smoked head and tail light covers. I think they where made by a company called GTS and you couldn't see a frickin thing when they were installed. Can't believe I never got a ticket!!! After all the covers were stolen for the 3rd time, I gave up. Todays mild blackout tints are a much better option but I need all the light I can get to spot the deer I'm about to hit. My preferred method for a venison dinner is the bow & arrow!

There's lots of info on the net about hypermiling. Some of the tips are pretty good and some are ridiculous. I really just use common sense to increase mpg. The best way is to pay attention to what's going on around you and what your right foot is doing with the gas pedal at all times. Having an instantaneous mpg readout can really help drivers learn how to get better mpg. I kinda treat it like a game. The higher I can get that average mpg readout, the better I'm playing. No need to get carried away and become a danger to other drivers but most could really improve their octane usage by changing a few driving habits.

31-32 psi cuz the roads here in Michigan have to be some of the worst in the entire country. A little lower psi smooths her out a little and does not seem to effect mpg on the idiot gauge. I've been getting 26-28 on the highway and 22-24 mixed in my 2011 SEL FWD. I do use a few of Hypermiling tricks and they really do work.

Hey Cal, have you seen anything on DX that you think might be a decent reverse LED? Gotta order a few Cree XML's anyway so I'm thinking of throwing in a few Reverse LEDS to try. By the way, great thread about the back-up light LEDs.

Well, the slow boat finally got here yesterday. I installed the DX Festoons and they are really bright and very white. If you can wait a month, the DX 42mm Festoons are well worth $2.70 each. 15 bucks to convert all interior lights and license plate bulbs to LED!!!!

I don't think many would have taken delivery of that thing. Looks like the hood is a mile off! At this point, I would try to deal directly with a ford rep. Almost looks like it may have taken a front end hit because of the hood and front doors being out of line. Maybe take it to a good bodyshop and have them check it over to see if any paint or bodywork has been done. Let us know what happens.

I've done a few and they are not hard to do if you KNOW what you're doing. I now find it much easier to drop it off at the local Auto One store and give them $160.00 to install a nice Directed Electronics remote start. DEI makes some really nice remote starts. The one they just put in for me is a DEI Avital single button.

The used market is hot right now. Why don't you sell the 2010 yourself? I know it's the easy way but I don't understand why anyone would go the trade-in route. If ya really think about it, you will be paying an extra $7000.00 for the 2011 if you take $13000.00 for your 2010.

Sounds like a bad connection or blown fuse somewhere but this would not explain why the radio does not accept a CD. Maybe she just died. This would be a great time to upgrade to an aftermarket headunit with bluetooth and steering wheel control ability. If you wanna stay with the factory system there should be lots of them on E-bay. The basic Ford 6 disc MP3 headunit was used in a lot of Ford models. I, myself, would look to the aftermarket for a nice new headunit.

Thanks R. Sounds like I can grab the wires were you did and just hide a small LOC behind the kick panel or even mount it under the dash for easy adjustments. I'm gonna get the front stage to sound good before I add my single 10. How is the Re-Q5 sounding with your sub so far?

The basic single CD system in the 2011 Edge really sounds horrible. My 2010's basic stereo sounded way better. I really notice the difference during a conversation when my cellphone is hard wired into the AUX port.

Great Pics! I was not a happy camper when I got stuck with a Mediterranean Blue 2011 but the color is starting to grow on me. Depending on lighting conditions, I have either a blue or a green Edge!

I'm sure you got it but it's tough to get a good grip on those suckers. Please let us know what kit you are using and how the install turns out. I'm still thinking about going HID but all the reliability issues are kinda freakin me out.

Anyone else getting high speed noise from the passenger side windshield wiper arm? Sounds like there is a piece of paper stuck to it. I noticed that they made a design change to the wiper arms for 2011 which may not have been such a good idea.

Ya need part number 9. Maybe take it completely off and see what it looks like without the valance.

2011 SEL with factory basic single CD system. I want to tap into the front speaker leads behind the stereo to run a line level converter for a small amp and a set of Boston components. Anyone tear into the dash yet or is there a remote amp somewhere?

I made one of these shelves out of a chunk of ABS plastic a few weeks ago. I don't like to hear things rattle around so I covered it with automotive carpet along with the bottom of the coin tray. Ford should hang it's head in shame for leaving out this cheap little tray. I don't see how anyone can get by without doing this simple mod!!!!!!!

Yes, I don't think it's a good idea to use a rubberized undercoat for rustproofing as it would probably trap water in interior panels. A rustproofing product is much different then a undercoat product. 3M makes a few good rustproofing products that can be sprayed inside interior panels. Rubberized undercoat is strictly for underneath a vehicle and needs to be applied properly. If not done and maintained properly, it can actually do more damage then good. If done right, it can keep a "salt belt" vehicle's bottom rust free for a really long time.