RJG

We recenly puchased a Limited Edge with standard 3.5 V6. In real world driving, wife is getting 18-20 MPG US in city and urban driving computed after buying fuel. Highway about 26.5 average is best I have seen on cars computer....don't know how accurate that is. 2.0 Liter EB obviously can do considerably better at light throttle. Drive it hard, and doubt if you see much difference over V6. So driving habits will play a big part in this also.

I wish I could give you mine. Not required for my state. Standard bracket is riveted to my front bumper. Very solid. Doesn't block off air path. As brackets go....it is more than adequate.

Or just get an SHO. Work is already done for you. Total package is already engineered. Way cheaper in the long run. Better value also. Put a turbo on an Edge, and it's worth nothing afterwards. SHO is still an SHO.

Well.....You've only got two things to work with. Timing and A/F ratio. By intake I assume you mean cold air kit. I think of intake as something else. You can maybe add some timing, requiring use premium fuel, either add some fuel with SCT tuner, or lean it a tad for more power. No mystery. Tuner plus your cold air kit might add 5-10 HP at max RPM. No change really in mid range my guess.

Broken engine mount, or similar? Does that car have a TQ brace?

You would need a higher TQ capacity transmssion, stronger half shafts, higher capacity cooling system, higher capicity fuel system including new pump and injectors, maybe larger fuel lines (but doubt it), different MAF sensor for sure, a tuner to program the ECU when you're on the dyno. Some type of charge cooler....air to air, air to water to air, etc. Assuming the stock computer can be programed to handle that. Turbo or turbos, custom exhaust manifolds to mate up to turbo, custom exhaust system after that, etc and on and on and on. Reposition exhaust sensors. I doubt if stock pistons and rods would take much boost. Also....I don't see any way to be street legal....if you reposition the oxygen sensors. How do you deal with stock VVT? Cheaper and simpler to super charge.....assuming you can make it fit under hood. If you want to put a power adder on something.....get a Mustang....even new 3.7. Even older 4.0 Mustang V6 manual trans better candidate than 3.5 Edge. Kits already developed. Just bolt one on, get a tune, and you're ready to go. Make 300-350 at the wheels (or more with a lot of boost).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio You might want to study this. Stoich A/F at sea level is around 14.7. For engine safety sake and long life, most ECU's will strive to keep around 12.5 to 13 A/F at WOT, and stoich or even slightly leaner at light thottle. Too lean and you run hot and/or burn a piston. However....the closer you get to Stoich, the more power the engine makes, and the better fuel economy. So there is a little "room" in the factory tune, usually, for a slightly leaner burn and probably slightly more timing. That's where these "so called" cold air kits get their claim of extra power from mostly. If I were going to run a CAI kit, even on our vehicles, I would also get a tune on a chassis dyno, where you can adjust some other parameters. With a tune, if you get more air from CAI, you can dial in some more fuel at WOT, so as not to run too lean, and maybe some more timing before detonation. Or tune for 91 and get a couple more HP. BTW....I'm not a fan of oiled air filters for cars with sensitive MAF sensor wires. Some of that oil will migrate to those wires, and may or may not cause drivability (non warranty) issues. Hold up a K&N to the light and you can also see why it can move more air, and a lot more dirt, than a paper filter. If I ran a K&N filter, would for sure change the oil a lot more often. Some CAI kits don't use oiled filters. I prefer them, but don't think they filter air so good either. Good luck and enjoy your car. To each his own. LOL..... I'm actually enjoying the quiet use of our Edge, and don't much miss the loud noise of performance. Just getting old I guess. Edit addition.....I'm not necessarily against the addition of bolt on's like CAI kits. With a tune, they can make a few HP. There is nothing magical about them, you just have to understand a little about how an engine works. Just hate to see the hype and half facts thrown around. And so many folks void their engine warranty from adding these things. Having said this....if getting a new 5.0 Mustang, I would probably visit my local chassis dyno to see if a few HP is lurking there from a more agressive tune and exhaust system. Also know the factory engineers are geting pretty good, and not much HP and TQ was left on the table. 2-3 HP from much louder exhaust, and maybe 5-8 from a tune.....and that's around 6000-7000 RPM.....not where most of us drive much.

Mine has NAV also. I probably will use it rarely except for trips. My salesman says you still get turn by turn directions without NAV on my model. He thinks that's all he would need for around town use, and his wife understands how to use that. I like to have more info than that on on a trip. I do have to say my portable Garmin works very well, and I can up date it so easily. Before every trip, I at least up date the points of interest. Besides the other advantages you folks mention for a built in unit, I assume the screen is shaded better than my portable unit.

I have a Honda Element with XM radio, and I think it's a "powered" antenna. Is our's powered? I have Sirius.

Thanks for your explanation. Do many states limit the "lumens" a manufacturer can build into their lights? If so.....HID's of the same "Lumens" as halogens would draw less power. But if your aftermarket HID's were a lot brighter.....would you likely be legal? BTW....I'm not overly hung up about bright properly adjusted slightly illegal HID's. My last Mustang (a 2008) had the optional HID headlights. Wonderful lights. Wife's 2005 Mercury Montego that I sold to buy this Edge also had HID's (standard on Premere version), again wonderful lights. But for where I drive, urban, I don't see a great deal of difference in this Edge compared to their lights.

There is no question that so called Cold Air Kits can and usually increase the air flow to your engine. It takes about 600 cu ft per minute of air flow to support about 300 fly wheel HP. Some of these wide open air filters and move much more air (and dirt) that that. Your Mass Air Flow sensor maybe can adjust to that much extra air maybe not. For sure, the engine electronics are not designed around that much excess air flow. So if the MAF sensor can't keep A/F ratio where factory wants it, then car runs lean.....runs a little hotter (maybe) and has shortened engine life (again maybe). And lean to a point makes more power. So the question is....if your car makes 5 more HP at max RPM....is it because of a greater air supply from the CAI kit....IE the engineers didn't design in enough air flow with a reasonably clean filter, or.....is it making a tad more power because it's now running a tad lean at WOT? I'm sure engine can keep up with more air supply at light throttle, but HP is usually measured at WOT where it can run a tad lean. On the Ege....I don't know which one it is. But I've spent considerable time with hot rodded Mustangs on dyno's getting tunes to understand some of how this works. At light throttle, even a dirty air filter can supply enough air for optimum fuel economy (the ecu will adapt), so IMHO the only way to improve fuel economy is run it leaner, and the factory doesn't design in that much richness these days. Also....some cars run slightly leaner as they age, and engineers know this and design in for this. And an engine that runs fine with CAI kit at 60-70 degrees ambiant, might make a bunch more HP on a cold night, run lean, and blow up. Seen this at the strip a bunch with supercharged cars. (Power adders magnify A/F issues). Our cars don't make much power (compared to a performance car), so no matter what bolt ons you do, it won't make much difference. If you want a HP or two....just change out the air filter about every 10,000 or so.

I didn't get the package that has HID's on our 2012 Limited, but have had HID's on past vehicles. I always thought, that while the light wasn't much brighter, there was just more of it. They did seem to improve night vision. And there is just the "cool" factor as well. However.... our new Edge has pretty good lights....seems to me. If a person wanted a little more, are there stronger Halogen bulbs you can install and be legal? I'm obviously not up on latest lighting technology, but it seems to me halogen technology, and how they are "projected", has also improved vastly over past few years. I'm not insinuating they are on par with good legal HID's, because I'm sure that technology is also improving, but aren't our lights better than some think? And maybe up gradeable fairly cheaply. I don't understand what light wattage means,,,,,if it's a measure of wattage the lights draw, or a measure of the light strength and brightness. And if HID's and halogens are measured the same way, and how much restriction the law has on good HID performance. Sorry to bore you with these musings, I do wish I had got factory HID's, but so far I haven't really missed them. I also rarely drive where the road isn't lighted.

Thanks for your reply. Seems to me....we should be able to go to synchmyride.com, plug SD card in, and do our own updates. My salesman insinuated this is coming.

Wondering how up to date my maps are. Took delivery last week. Empty box in glove box says they are version "A1". Thanks for any info you might have. I guess I'm spoiled. With my portable Garmin, I can update anytime I wish, maps, POI, etc free by simply plugging into my laptop. Do you have to always go to the dealership to get an update on our system?

I'm sure you'll see some level of tow package available soon. They probably just need some time to develop the coolers for transaxle and power steering, the wiring harness, and do some other engineering.....larger radiator, etc. The "hitch" itself is a minor part of a tow package. After all.....The EB 3.5 in the F 150 was developed and engineered to be a towing monstor.

My 2012 owners manual says the 2.0 EB engine is designed to operate on 87. It doesn't mention the use of higher octane fuels which is why I figure it can't take advantage of the lower volatility of high octane with some more advance. It would be good if you are right and I am wrong.

My 2012 Edge with 3.5 says 6 quarts or 5.7 L also.

I'm OK with it, will get it figured out soon. My main concern, as a Ford stock holder, is how many sales they lose because of it's complexity. Ford probably has that answer, and figures they gain more then they lose with such modern technology. And I understand the demands of being competitive in the market. Better to lead than follow, etc. I traded in a 2005 Mercury Montego, Premere version, and it had same features this Limited Edge has (except for HD radio) , but vastly simpler to operate. I guess I just don't see this as "progress". But love the car for it's abiliy to serve as our family vehicle for trips, wife's daily driver, etc.

Limited dark blue with NAV. First impressions....It drives great. Good seating. Good access to rear seats. Good ride and handling for what it is. Solid build feel. I think I'll get the controls and electronics mostly figued out fairly soon. However.....why does it have to be so complicated? It's a crossover, a transportation vehicle, not a space module. I guess that's my main complaint. I'll get over it. I'm not particularly tech challenged, just don't see why controls for climate, audio, and vehicle settings have to be so complicated. Otherwise....love it. Seems like decent value. More importantly....wife likes it.....it's to be her daily driver.

Justin does know his stuff.

I also don't like oiled filters. Some of that oil will migrate to your MAF sensor wires. May or may not cause a drivability issue, but not a good idea. Oiled filters best for cars with carbs.

Well....Picking up the Edge Thursday afternoon. Limited with Nav and all season mats. X plan. Would prefer a 36 month lease, but salesman says Ford is supporting the 27 month better with lower money factor. I guess that is so from what some on here say.

For me and my needs.......I didn't need or want the 3rd row seats. I didn't want to use a ladder to wash it, and I like the fact the Edge uses up about 13" less space in my garage....F to R. Edge is about 400 lbs lighter than Explorer, so better fuel economy. I have another vehicle to haul my bikes, so interior hauling not a concrn. But if you need the features of the Explorer...More interior space, more and better seating in middle, better hauling with seats down...... then choose it. I notice from specs....leg room for second row in Explorer about same as leg room for Edge in rear seats.

I might would add a hitch to the Eco Boost to haul bikes, or something like that. But would not add an after market hitch to tow stuff. The factory tow package includes more than the hitch. Would imagine it includes a wiring harness, and coolers for transaxle and power steering. And as you know....Ford didn't want you to tow with EB package, thus tow package not available.

Hi! New to this forum and already learning a lot. Will be picking up our 2012 Edge Limited this week. We are X plan. Usually I just pay for vehicle when I pick it up, but this time have other (hopefully) better uses for $30,000 than putting in vehicle, so think I will try the 27 month lease they are advertising with $7800 down (value of our trade in). Question.....Will X plan automatically see I get the lowest money factor on lease, or is that negotiable? Also....I would prefer a 36 month lease, but salesman says Ford is favoring the 27 month with better depreciation rates. Is that so? How does that matter if you buy the vehicle at lease end? He did say the lease payments for 36 are greater than for 27....after same trade in. One would think it would be the oposite. I don't particularly care what the payments are, figuring the more I pay along, the less I will pay when I buy the vehicle at lease end. But.... maybe I'm thinking wrong. However, salesman also says money factor is lower on 27 than 36, by a lot, making 27 month lease more favorable. If anyone can explain this, would be greately appreciated. Thanks.