candurin

It was a joke... I suppose I'll need to add the "/sarcasm" in future posts where I laugh at my own responses... If you replaced your camera, other members have indicated that you'll need your dealer to reset and initialize the new camera before the zoom and guidelines will function properly on the replacement.

You can always just have the dealer give you the home link visor (and install it for you). If it were on my sticker, I would demand it.

If all else fails, just install your current one upside down?

Second vote for weatherTech. Mine is still going strong and looks as good as the day I installed it (with routine cleaning and vacuuming).

And from the service manual link omar provided: Note: LED lamps are not serviceable. See an authorized dealer if they fail. They may all be sealed housings, which require you to either replace the entire assembly or you can find a way to cut it open and replace the LED that way.

Can you elaborate a bit more? Which wire and where did you tap into it? I've had my hitch installed for over 2 years but never installed the wiring kit (oem). Anything you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I imagine my 2012 would have similar wires and locations.

The stock bulb is an HIR2 bulb, which is a 9012 pattern/size. There are 9012 aftermarket size HID bulbs (two/three years ago there was not, which is why we used 9006 or 9005 bulbs). I (and many others) have used 9006 size kits. Some have been able to "wrench" the 9006 bulbs into the OEM socket with no issues and others have had to modify the top tab to fit. There is a very slight and subtle difference in the 12 o'clock tab on the two bulbs: http://store.candlepower.com/mohirbuba.html http://www.motorfiend.com/mobile/9012-Replacement-HID-Bulbs-30000K-Extreme-Blue/

I knew we would finally agree The new acura LED setup is pretty damn impressive. I'd never buy one (despite my wife's persistence) but the nighttime illumination is pretty damn good!

Unfortunately, Nick is not a fan of any retrofit without ANY complete projector housing modification on the 2011-2015 edge (Nick, I'm not trying to be antagonistic). Many, MANY of the forum members have had zero issues and zero "flash back" from on-coming traffic after retrofitting HID kits. The shadow, off-center hotspot and the fact you are getting signals from other drivers is a strong indicator that your bulbs are not seated correctly. You definitely want to check that out. You should have NO issues with on-coming traffic if everything is installed properly. You won't get the razor lined sharp cutoff that OEM provides, however, you will obtain a cutoff on the retrofit inside the halogen projector that does not have any deleterious effects on other drivers.

LEDs will catch up and surpass HIDs and halogens for intensity, lumens and field of view in headlights. They certainly have in flashlights. My kids have these things and they are ridiculously bright: http://www.amazon.com/Collections-Etc-Flashlight-Huggable-Loveable/dp/B00TO46JFS I swear, I thought about pulling one apart to see how bright I could make puddle lights. We just took had a family camping trip and the entire tent looked like the top of the Luxor in Vegas. I think Dan might have to reach out to them.

I had a bear of a time getting my 9006 bulbs to seat properly. I had to trim one of the tabs to get the bulb to turn. If you can pull the headlight housing out you should be able to really make sure all three tabs are locked in and aimed properly.

I'm sorry again Vette! I'm confusing myself! Which size bulbs did you go with 9006 or 9012? You want to make sure the return wire is facing as close to 6 o'clock. This ensures that the projected "shadow" of the wire is at 12 o'clock and not in your beam pattern. If you do not see the shadow, you're good. As far as the hotspot is concerned, you can possibly readjust the beam height but that was not something I had to do. Whew! I went off on a tangent!

Sorry.... I don't mean the wires feeding power to the bulbs. I mean the metal wire attached to the glass of the bulb.

You may just have to rotate the tabs. The bulb return wire should be on top of the bulb (between 9 and 3). I would advise against not using the relay harness. That is really designed to take the strain off the lower gauge factory headlight wires.

Yes, as I have a 55w HID kit. I used the heavy duty relay wire harness with my morimoto kit.

You can put the capacitor on and see if it helps eliminate the flicker. All the capacitor is designed to do is give a little more boost/crank power from the initial ignition to help eliminate the flicker. My capacitors never had an effect on my HID kit. I've been using my TRS kit without the capacitors for 4 years with zero issues. I did try using them, as I have always had a initial flicker on my passenger side. It never bothers me and it seems as though it only occurs if I start my edge in the dark. If I am driving and it turns dark enough for the auto function to ignite the lights, the flicker does not occur (cold start = flicker, hot start = no flicker).

What's the part number from Amazon? You have to decide what your looking for. Here's the "typical" OEM options: 1. Short range, using an integrated Keyhead fob - 300' range (better outdoors than indoors) 2. long range, using a separate fob (just has a remote start button, that's all) - about 1000' range 3. Bi-directional long range, same as long range but the remote indicates when the car has actually started 4. remote access, uses your cell phone and as long as your phone and car are both in areas with reception, you can start your car (you will also get text and/or email messages if your alarm goes off for one reason or another). This service is $50/year in addition to parts and activation. You need the hood switch at a minimum. Depending on what you decide you want, you may or may not need the standard antenna (only needed for short range kit).

Let me circle back from my post. Some 2013 vehicles with power lift gate HAVE the VSS already installed, some do not. Can you test to confirm if you have the security system (VSS) in your car?: You can test it by rolling down the front window with the doors closed, then use your fob to lock the doors from outside. Then reach in through the window and open the door without unlocking it. If you have an alarm that will trigger it. Note: It also looks like the ebay kit for the RMU/VSS is not longer available, so you may have to go with the OBD VSS and RMU modular kit. They can still be found for less than OEM, but not as cheap as $200.

in my opinion, they are worth it. I have tried both ways. I originally did it myself, with very good results. But, I had to saw and dremel the lenses off the housing. Then, I never felt like I was able to get a good seal when closing them back up. I finally settled on the drive bright (2 years later) and I have been very happy with them. Again, if you DIY, it will take some work (again, doable) and you'll have to replace the OEM units if anything goes awry. Here's a good thread that goes through the steps: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13899-diy-led-puddle-lights-install/?hl=puddle

I am copying and pasting my response from another thread, because it answers exactly what your looking for. This will give you the 5 button fob as well as the cell phone access: Here would be the "cheapest" way to get everything you would want (remote cell access + 100 series remote start via key fobs): Remote cell access kit (includes VSS + RMU): http://www.ebay.com/itm/351691301806- for $200 (and $40/year) you're all set with remote start. You use your cell phone as the "fob" with unlimited range (note, you cannot operate the lift gate from your phone). Your dealership needs to activate it at $50-100 (.5-1 hour of labor, this cost is the same for ANY remote start version you need activated via IDS). The cost of this remote cell kit is about $40 (less with shipping) more than just purchasing the VSS alone ($157 from Levittown). You get much better value for your $ and you can add cellular features at any time (I also like the additional resale value). You need the Hood switch: BT4Z-19G366-A and aerial antenna: DA8Z-15603-A (aerial antenna is not needed for cell phone remote access, it's only needed if you want to start your car from your key fob). You can use Levittown ford or eBay for best price. Lastly, you can add non-oem key fobs should you decide to use key fob for remote start (my non-oem have been working perfectly for well over a year): http://www.ebay.com/itm/351304921041 You can then do the entire installation at the rear of the car. Hope this all makes sense and helps.

If you are referring to the puddle lamps (down firing, under the mirror) they take 31mm (30mm works too) festoon bulbs. Did one burn out or are you looking for LEDs? They are a process to open and re-seal (very doable). Ford typically just sells replacement fixtures with the bulbs already in them as they are sealed. I would strongly recommend these, if you're looking to upgrade: http://drivebright.com/home/shop/v4-extreme-led-puddle-light-pack-brightest/

Can you return the ones you purchased? This way you can then purchased one of the ones we (the forum members) have tried with success? You are correct about the SA belonging to Strattec. http://www.locksmithledger.com/article/10250626/technology-on-the-move-ford-80-bit-key-blanks

These all work with the 2013 edge. They are all 80bit SA keys: IKTs, IAs, Fobs (I know they are not Ford OEM numbers, but they work with google ). 164-R8070 (IKT: three buttons; lock, unlock, panic) 164-R8073 (IKT: four buttons; lock, unlock, trunk release, panic) 164-R8067 (IKT: four buttons; lock, unlock, remote start, panic) 164-R8000 (IKT: five button; lock, unlock, remote start, trunk/liftgate, panic) * Note, seems like all IKTs have FCC ID: CWTWB1U793 in common

The '11-'14 Ford Edge IKT keys all have FCC ID CWTWB1U793 in common (SA 80 bit) and the ones you purchased are OUCD6000022. I think the keys you mentioned are for older MY Edges, not 2011-2014, just based on my 15 seconds of searching on Google. I also recall that I had to use two separate procedures with my keys. One to program the fob portion of the key and another for the key itself. Having said all that, there is a chance your keys may still work, based on the fact you have some partial success with the fob already.

Here would be the "cheapest" way to get everything you would want (remote cell access + 100 series remote start via key fobs): Remote cell access kit (includes VSS + RMU): http://www.ebay.com/itm/351691301806- for $200 (and $40/year) you're all set with remote start. You use your cell phone as the "fob" with unlimited range. Your dealership needs to activate it at $50-100 (.5-1 hour of labor, this cost is the same for ANY remote start version you need activated via IDS). The cost of this remote cell kit is about $40 (less with shipping) more than just purchasing the VSS alone ($157 from Levittown). You get much better value for your $ and you can add cellular features at any time (I also like the additional resale value). You need the Hood switch: BT4Z-19G366-A and aerial antenna: DA8Z-15603-A (aerial antenna is not needed for cell phone remote access, it's only needed if you want to start your car from your key fob). You can use Levittown ford or eBay for best price. Lastly, you can add non-oem key fobs should you decide to use key fob for remote start (my non-oem have been working perfectly for well over a year): http://www.ebay.com/itm/351304921041 You can then do the entire installation at the rear of the car. Hope this all makes sense and helps.