candurin

Can you confirm the part number on the remote starter module? There is no difference between a VSS and an RMST module (both provide shock sensor functionality). In most kits, the part number is DL3J-19G367-AB. From the only google image I see when entering your kit part number, it appears as though your module MIGHT be part number BT4J-19G364-AA. It should still work, but that was the RMST module from the 2011 kit. It should work fine and either way you would connect the same: Disconnect TPM cable from TPM module. Insert adapter from t harness into TPM module (connect the aerial antenna, the long rectangular one, into the other port on the TPMs module), then insert the TPM cable you disconnected into the t-harness. Then finally the last plug in your t-harness goes into your RMST module (as does the long range antenna). Basically the t-harness sits between the TPMS module, its original cable and the remote starter module. All adapters on the t-harness will need to be used (don't leave any disconnected).

Nothing better than listening to my wife chastize me because I have my vent mounted phone on Waze, regardless if I have the SYNC Nav running or not. Yeah, the OEM nav is rough, but I am enjoying (MAYBE!) the novelty of it. I am glad to know that I have it as a backup, in case I ever have phone issues (I removed the Garmin from my console as it is no longer the backup device).

Here's some additional info (again, I haven't done this, just passing along what I find with my staggering google skills): "Y"'s get changed... Factory/OEM Remote Start (Main System): 726-22-02 (2014+ MY) (BdyCM) xxxY xxxx xxxx 0 (Disabled) 1 (Enabled) 726-32-01 (2013 MY) (BdyCM) - Note: Untested on 2013 xYxx xxxx 0 (Disabled) 1 (Enabled) Factory/OEM Remote Starter Dashboard Controls: 720-02-02 (2013+ MY) (IPC) xxxx YYxx 00 (Disabled) FA (Enabled w/Climate Control) - Note: This setting can be FD on some newer IPC's (2015+) Factory/OEM Remote Starter Parking Lights: 726-41-02 (2014+ MY) (BdyCM) xxxx xxxY xxxx 1 (Enabled - Default) 0 (Disabled) Reference: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573

Eco... looks as though you need to make sure that under BCM as built, the value of 726-19-01 should be 0148 to enable remote start. Then once write and reboot. Then you should be able to enable remote start under IPC (as built), which will give you the options in the left hand instrument cluster. I had mine done by ford, but I verified that is the value I have in my vehicle.

Just to add... PATS is basically your ignition key or IKT (Integrated Key Transmitter). The kit you purchased has a bi-directional long range FOB, NOT a key. That is why the kit does not include "PATS" (another ignition key).

I wanted to reply awhile ago, but, I couldn't log into the site for over a week! The kit you purchased (BT4Z-19G364-A) has everything you need (besides the hood switch, which you have). Everything can be installed at the rear drivers side interior quater panel. You can program the keys yourself (PATS), as long as you have two OEM keys available. The install should take under an hour. Instructions are here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/2011-2013%20Remote%20Access_Truck3-15-2013.pdf I have done a previous write up that should help clear thing up:http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/page-1 The dealer can activate remote start for you (should be 30-60 minutes labor) via IDS or you can do it yourself with a Bluetooth OBD device and forscan. PM me with any questions, I'd be glad to help (or ask me publicly here as it may guide someone else attempting the same thing).

I may or may not have read way too far into this. At the same time I was reading this my kids were absolutely driving me mad.

If it is due to our juvenile jabbering, then we can certainly fix that. If it is due to the topic itself, then please feel free to remove this thread.

Yup, I may or may not have just used it in a 3 hour car ride. You go with PNG method or license?

I use this tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS The forum that I was going to provide a link to (xda) is down for maintenance at the moment but you can google "forscan enable remote start" and it should point you in the right direction. I can try and find the exact IPC codes in the morning for you.

You can program the keys yourself. The dealer will have to enable the remote start feature via IDS. If you're up to it, you can always buy a Bluetooth OBD scan tool, get a free copy of forscan and enable the remote start yourself. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes to do.

You should see a "T" harness coming off your OBD port. Then you should have the VSS (vehicle security sensor) box attached to the second OBD port. The remote starter aerial antenna connects to the TPMS sensor in the rear LH quarter panel. At least that's how it did in the 2013 & 2014 edge.

ive been telling my kids since day one that they have the same GPS chip our dog has.

As the lights in the 2011-2014 Edge are vertical, it would not do much to illuminate the side of the road. My switchbacks do actually help cast some light on the sides of the road. A lot, no. Enough? Perhaps... I do find that with my HIDs, I get better light coverage than with the OEM halogens. But, it's been over 4 years since I've been behind the wheel of my Edge with OEM lighting.

Ok, I may or may not have done this: http://forum.xda-developers.com/windows-mobile/general/guide-enable-navigation-cars-sync-2-0-t3484473 And I may or may not have used this Bluetooth OBD tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Lastly, I may or may not have purchased an eBay A7 Maps SD card and have everything working perfectly. I would recommend going with the OEM license option ($40-70 depending on which place you procure it from) available in this thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/windows-mobile/general/myford-touch-navigation-activation-t3368080 It should cost you under $100 to have OEM Navigation added to your 2011+ MFT. I am not involved with the other forum at all... Just sharing what I've read...

My TRS bulbs (5500k) from 2012 are still as good as new and my wife's DDM 4300k are also chugging along since 2010! Looks great CB.

There's clips that hold the "ribs" in place on the top and bottom of the black honeycomb plastic. It will make sense once you see it. Just be careful with the the clips, they are surprisingly easy to break.

Heres a few pics (you'll have to look through the threads) http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13791-replacing-front-grill-paint-or-no-paint/ And mine: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13030-plasti-dipped-wheels/

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-size/3156/3157-80w-hi-power-leds-pair The only problem is that these are for the 2011-2014 edge.

It does seem as though the resistors are not wired correctly (maybe)? All functionality appears normal when engine is off. What brand bulbs are you using? I have tried MULTIPLE brands of switchbacks (JMT, VLED, eBay) and only the diode dynamics have worked properly and I have been using them for well over a year (not so much a plug for them as they just work flawlessly for me). I have a 2012, but I still had to wire a resistor in on both sides/turn bulbs of the car.

I will assume that the Ford rep meant http://social.ford.com

Thanks Omar. I read that last night. My car sits for up to a week at a time at the airport quite often (which explains why my car only has 49k miles). Today. The voltage was reading 14.3 for the hour drive to airport. Oh well. Seems as though it's working as intended and I was glad to have everyone talk me off the ledge. I may pick up the solar 7 just the same. Would probably work on our kids SLA power wheels batteries!

everything is stock wiring. I hardwired the escort detector by using a two pin phone cable with an inline fuse, wired directly into the mirror. At most it is a 6" (yes, inch) cable. Oddly enough, I just put my meter on car battery after using the remote start and it read 13.67V (the lowest reading I have ever taken). Once, I turned the key, it stayed at 14.0. So, getting lower than typical results, but its probably weather related. I'll keep an eye on it for sure.

Glad to hear. After seeing "14.4" for many years, just wanted to make sure my simple battery swap was not headed towards a larger issue.

Thanks for the responses, guys. I've had the battery on there for a month and I just haven't posted about it. Terminals are on solid, clean and lubed. The battery is the MTP-65 interstate battery. Not sure how to make the BMS learn it, but it should have done so after a month, no? I've been running AC non-stop for two months now (damn NJ weather!), so I'll go and check if there is any fluctuations and report back. It has never dipped below 14.0V.