autom8r

Larry: Torque values for plugs and plenum bolts are in this attachment. Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX SPARK PLUG replacement.pdf

beston38st, Removal of the plugs was probably the easiest part. Make sure you have compressed air or a can of that spray duster around. There is alot of debris that settles in the spark plug tube recesses in 100k miles. You don't want that stuff to fall into your cylinders. If you run into a seized plug, you can always put it back together and go get reinforcements [pay a mechanic], mine were stiff, but I didn't need a 1/2" breaker bar to release them. Avoid temptation, use the stock plugs. A day or two before you start, clean the engine at a do-it-yourself car wash. This is to remove all the road grime that settled on the engine so it doesn't end up falling into the engine as you remove the intake manifold. There are alot of little nooks and crannies that fill up with junk. Make sure it's dry before you start taking it apart. I reused the manifold gaskets, there are three of them in pairs for front and rear opposing cylinders. Material is silicone, like an o-ring, durable, but not indestructible. I'll replace them on my next set of plugs in 90k miles. Start by removing the electrical connections first [at least the one's you can see]. I remember removal of the spark plug coil wires was a bitch. Be careful that you don't break the clip. Practice on the one's in front. You'll barely be able to see them in the back. If you break a clip, you'll be far away from home. Not that it won't go back together, it may not STAY together. If you're using pliers to disconnect the plugs from the throttle body, etc. you're trying too hard. There was also a brake booster vacuum line clamp that was difficult to get some pliers on. In the back on the firewall. If you have manifold issues, the ECM will throw a code and you'll get a CEL. I have 6k since the change without a CEL. Take your time on it. Be careful out there! Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX SPARK PLUG replacement.pdf

The rears are marked 51605 R. I don't think that front and rear are interchangeable. You should be able to look at the rear springs from underneath and see the 'R'. I took about 1500 miles or so for mine to "settle" down. In the beginning, the ride was stiff. The ride has gotten much better, or I've become used to it or maybe a little of both. Good luck.

Kanatronic: Removal instructions are attached. Looks simple. The BLISS System is a nice feature. Good Luck! Ford Edge Side Mirror Removal.pdf

My 2 cents. Sounds like galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals can create a small electrical current that can cause premature failure of the "anode" side of the circuit and the presence of water accelerates the corrosion process. If the water contains salt or is a brine it becomes even more conductive and will corrode metal even faster. I assume "winter" tires means that they put salt on the roads where you live? What are your rims made of? Aluminum or steel? Even the lug nuts can be contributory. BTW, Not a Ford Engineer, and materials science was 25 years ago in college.

Mine doesn't make any clicking noises at the end of travel on the steering, in either direction. I assume that when you removed the strut, you supported the control arm and spindle to prevent it from dropping. If not, you may have damaged the CV joint. It will need an alignment, and hopefully you installed the new camber bolts. While you're in the shop, tell the tech about the spring mount and the what happened to the bearing when you installed the springs. The spring mount should've come out in one unit.

Shooter: Seems like your upper mount and seat is damaged and should be replaced. Sometimes the bearing will rust itself onto the shaft making the mount difficult to remove [though I find it hard to believe on a 2013]. Use a good penetrant like "KROIL" and wait a little bit to let it do its work. Be cautious if you're using a mallet to persuade the mount off the shaft. It's also important the the bearing [via the mount] is seated on the shaft correctly, otherwise there may be play at the shoulder where the bearing is seated on the shaft resulting in a rattle or a pounding noise. Good luck. Ford Edge Front Struts.pdf

Watch this http://www.coastaletech.com/edgeinstallation.htm That was easy!

I agree with Mike. I have H&R springs. Don't skimp on the suspension. Installation cost is the same whether you put in a POS or a reputable spring.

Bottom line, the BAMR is cool. Any parked car is going to heat up eventually. The glass won't keep out the radiant heat from the sun better than the solid roof will and the sun shade isn't insulated, so it won't keep the conductive heat out. But when you show others the BAMR, you get the "oohs and ahs" and that makes it worth it.

Opening your hood will never be the same. Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT system. Surprises the guys at the dealership too. First time you change your battery you'll be glad you bought it. http://www.redlinetuning.com/QL-FORD-EDGE-07+.html

Hi Sarah: There are two motors, one for the shade and one for the glass located in the back, the one with the silver label is the one for the sunshades. A shared cable pulley system draws the sunshades over the front and rear glass. There is no front motor for the sunshade in the front. Good luck.

Below are the specs for my wheels. No issues. Brand: TIS Alloy Wheels Model: 16 Exterior: Machined Face / Matte Black Painted Manufacturer Part Number: TS1628512738R Sizing and Specifications Rim Diameter: 20 inches Rim Width: 8.5 inches Bolt Pattern (Number of Holes): 5 Bolt Pattern (Pitch Circle Diameter): 114.3 millimeters Offset: 38 millimeters Hub: 70.6 mm Weight: Unknown. Tires: Goodyear Eagle GT2 Size: 275x45-20, about 30mm wider than stock 245. Tires are flush. Gas mileage drops about 1 MPG. H&R Springs installed 12,000 miles ago. Bumpy at first, now smooth. No over oscillation. Good luck.

Hey, Congratulations Cellbine!

Score: One blue oval, three Bavarians.

How would you change the color and material of the BAMR cover? I haven't looked at the cover mechanism closely, but it would be a deal breaker if it wouldn't match.

Do you have the Easy Entry/Exit feature enabled? You'll find the settings for it using the little display in your instrument cluster. Scroll through through the settings until you find "Easy Entry/Exit" <ON> OFF and make sure it is set to ON. Good luck.

Clever use of toenail clippers! Well done! How did you get the lenses to stay in the mirrors, glue?

I say it's a loose brake pad. Not a safety issue, just annoying with the first step on the brake. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8p4KbOHOAo

BTW, don't put the vinegar with the baking soda!

I would try vinegar. Shouldn't damage the chrome and will loosen the mineral deposits. If you have a pool, try a little 50/50 muriatic acid. Test in an inconspicuous spot first. Rinse WELL. Use hand and eye protection with the muriatic acid. Good luck.

Plugs replaced with the help of this post. I left the connection to the MAF in place, disconnected the intake hose between the MAF and throttle body. I left the PCV tube attached to the intake hose and set both aside. Some additional notes: The connector to the TB works the same way that the Spark plug connectors do. Slide the red tab in the direction that you want to pull apart the connection. Pinch the plastic tab beneath to release the plug and simultaneously pull apart the connection. The coolant tubing running over the upper manifold releases easily. The wire loom is taped to some keepers that insert themselves into the upper manifold. The keepers are difficult to pry off without damaging them. It is easier to cut the tape wrap and pull the loom away from the keepers. This is shown but not described in the write up. This is also a tattle tale for spark plug replacement, if the wiring has not been tampered with, chances are that the stock plugs remain. The upper intake cannot be removed without unclipping these wires from the keepers. After the intake manifold bolts are removed, gently rock the manifold loose. Lift the manifold and rotate it counterclockwise around the purge valve mounted near the TB. I recommend that the intake openings be covered to prevent debris, or worse, from accidentally falling into the cylinders. I used frog tape for this purpose, same for the PCV connections. The rubber spark plug boots are designed to keep debris out of the park plug cavities, but I blew them out with compressed air before removing the spark plugs. I also examined them before I removed the plugs for valve cover leak issues. Oil in a spark plug journal indicates valve cover gasket failure. The gaps I found at 103k measured from 0.066 to 0.071. Use a wire tie to re-attach the wire loom to the keepers. On a scale of 1 to 10, a solid 2, same effort as a brake job.

Willdog: I've never removed it, but it seems like there are clips in each corner of the bezel. It looks like the A/C grilles are part of the assembly too. Here is a drawing for your use. The manual says that the bezel is removable using only a "non-marring" pry tool. Good luck. Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX Center Console Diagram.pdf

Thirdgenlxi, Are you able to get these OASIS reports for other edges? I would like to know what mine has been in for. Other than the dealership, is there another way to tell if the software is up to date? Congratulations on your new 'whip'!

Surferd15: I've attached some excerpts from the "official repair manual". The sensor attachment bolt should be torqued to 80 in-lbs, that's inch not foot. So 80/12 is about 6.5 feet, so 6.5 (six and a half) ft-lbs should do it. Even the official manual has a typo, the picture shows 80 in-lbs and the R and R instructions say 62 in-lbs. The sensors are delicate, and their housings are plastic, perhaps the over torquing of the attachment bolt is deforming the plastic, causing an erratic signal to the ABS module. Worst case, you may need to replace a sensor or two. Good luck! Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX Wheel Speed Sensors Pinpoint C7 and C8 test.pdf Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX Wheel Speed Sensors Pinpoint D test.pdf Ford Edge & Lincoln MKX Wheel Speed Sensors.pdf