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RJN0711 The better code readers will let you scan the temperature. A reading from a bad sensor will not make sense, reading absurdly high or low or not read at all. If the sensor was faulty, the ECM would cause the fan to run at high speed to protect the engine. The temperature sensor is connected to the ECM, and the ECM decides whether to turn the fans on or not. The output from the ECM signal may be on/off or PWM, depending on the fan module. The temperature sensor is not a thermostat, but a thermistor or RTD, a device that varies in resistance based upon temperature. Some are non-linear. There are two different style fan assemblies. One is specific for Edges equipped with tow packages. The two are not interchangeable so make sure you order the right one. The fan motor windings can be tested by disconnecting the motor leads from the fan module on the housing and checking their resistance. If the motor windings are open or shorted, the motor is fried. In your case, I think one or both of the fan motors is fried. If after you install the fan assembly and immediately the new fans spool up 100% with a cold engine, I would check the temperature sensor next. It could be that a bad temperature sensor caused the ECM to spool up the fans and that the fan motors fried after being on all the time. Of course I yield the floor to thirdgenlxi if he wants to chime in!

Mine is too. Not sure why Ford would split it this way. Doesn't leak though.

A 5 to 8% concentration of ethanoic acid should do the trick. Good luck.

2008 with 123k. Second owner, no significant issues. Reliable and predictable.

Brilliant! Makes me want to dump the MS Sync unit that came with my Limited. I can't think of a single reason now to keep the stock head end, except for the push buttons on the steering wheel.

Take it to a do-it-yourself car wash and clean the engine off. This should dislodge any gunk that's there. WD may emulsify whatever is there, but it won't blow out the gunk. My 2 cents.

Push the lever over the top of the connector in the direction shown on the drawing. The connector will disengage from the cover. Good Luck!

Maybe this will get you close. It should keep you busy all weekend long! Ford Edge HVAC assembly.pdf

Fuel pump. It wears out too. Happened to my old Bronco on the freeway. I'm sure eventually it will happen on the Edge too.

There is this thread that may explain your condition: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/4264-heater-core-corrosion-letter/page-2?hl=%2Bplugged+%2Bheater+%2Bcore&do=findComment&comment=33581

I may replace the coils if I pulled the codes from the ECM and saw that the coil was misfiring. Remove each coil one at a time and use a VOM to measure the resistance of each coil, the resistances should closely match each other. Swap locations of the suspected malfunctioning one with a known operating one. If the misfire moves to that cylinder, the coil is bad. Excessive plug gap may cause the coils to prematurely burn out. Examine the plug boot of the spark plugs and make sure they are clean and dry. A leaking valve cover gasket may cause the spark plug journal to fill with oil causing a misfire. The plug wiring should not require replacement. If anything, the ECM may be damaged from the coil malfunction. Good luck.

Have a look here. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11725-dual-climate-control-repair/ Good Luck!

Vinegar is acetic acid, not to be confused with acetone, or nail polish remover. Vinegar shouldn't craze plastic. Acetone will craze most acrylics, which are used for most transparent applications, where glass is too expensive or too heavy. Try vinegar in inconspicuous spot first, or on something else with hard water spots on it, like your shower head or faucet. Observe how it works on other sacrifical plastic items you have. After you are comfortable with its cleaning properties, try it on your car. BTW, goof off is acetone, straight up, and that stuff is way more harmful than vinegar. It's touted as safe, I don't let that shit get anywhere near anything I like.

Interesting information on the 3.5 and 3.7 L cyclone engine. http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_pdf/cyclone-tech-v2.pdf and for those wanting a little more zip, a stroker kit is available. increases the displacement to 4.0 L. http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_pdf/3.5_3.7_V6_EcoBoostProducts.pdf Fun stuff, maybe better on a Mustang or Taurus.

Ditto, hard water spots are calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, etc. Mild acid [vinegar is acetic acid] will remove these spots without using abrasion to remove them. Clay if desired and wax after.

Yup. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12776-bolt-torque-specs-for-control-arm-and-axle/ Have fun!

Hollywood Perhaps this will help. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12503-installing-rear-springs/ Good Luck.

Ski: Driver Seat Module [DSM] under the driver's seat. Some info attached. Good luck. Ford Edge Drivers Seat Module.pdf Ford Edge Drivers Seat Module Wiring.pdf

I'm going to go out on a limb here. I think it may be the cable you are experiencing problems with. See the section on "Selector Lever Cable Adjustment". There is also a troubleshooting guide with the attachment. If it were the TS sensor or the OS sensor, then you would have thrown some codes, was the CEL lit and did you see any codes? Good luck. P.S. Disregard if I'm way off. Ford Edge Shift Lever.pdf

Here is the procedure for the front left and right half shafts. Post pictures please. Ford Edge Half Shafts 2.pdf

Here is an excerpt from the manual. Instructions say to break the control arm from hub assembly at the ball joint. If you can do it at the control arm and leave the ball joint intact, seems even better! Have fun. Ford Edge Front Shafts and CV joints values.pdf

Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-Liftgate-Gas-Lift-Supports-Struts-Prop-Rod-Arms-Shocks-Ford-Edge-2007-2009-/330594877140

Nick: Here is another way. I partially followed this one. Deleted mufflers, and since the tips are short glass packs, I thought that there would be enough attenuation [for me]. I left the center resonator in place, Mike removed it and replaced it with a Magnaflow. Here is his link: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10779-pics-vid-of-my-modded-exhaust/?hl=magnaflow

Nick: I was told the middle component was a resonator and the two in the rear were mufflers by my muffler guy. ANSA calls the tips "resonators" but they are just shortened glass packs. Originally, I had the mufflers (in the back) removed and had short pieces of piping installed to replace the missing muffler, the tips were welded to these, keeping the resonator as-is in the middle of the vehicle. At idle, it was throaty and nice, but when I left the parking lot and got on the freeway, it was way too loud. I could audibly detect every shift point and it was difficult to use my phone without picking up the sound of the exhaust. So I elected to have the Magnaflows installed. There are members on this forum that have performed a muffler delete and a resonator replacement with success. My way is "a way" but may not be "the way" for you. I like my exhaust distinctive, and mildly loud, but not obnoxious. The exhaust configuration of the edge evolves in the following pictures: Gen 1 exhaust, note the hokey u-turn for the exhaust on the firewall side of the engine. [item 7] Gen 2 exhaust, with an interesting reconfiguration of the "y" pipe that reconfigures the geometry of the left and right exhaust outlets of the motor. Hokey u-turn eliminated. [item 6]. I'd like to get my hands on one of these. This is still "cat back", but not as convenient as reconnecting downstream. 3.7 sport configuration with independent piping. If the 3.7 configuration will fit a Gen 1 edge, then you could go dual piping all the way to the back. I'm working on that sound byte.