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Find your VIN number and then enter it into one (or more) of the online Ford reseller's sites, and then search for your rotors to narrow things down a bit. Here are a few: Main Ford site: https://parts.ford.com/en.html Online site (Florida): https://www.searchfordparts.com/ Online site (Nevada): https://www.fordgenuineautoparts.com/ (I spoke with a parts guy here and he was extremely helpful in finding alternate part numbers to replace a back-ordered part). Once you think you have the correct part number, call where you're going to buy from, have them verify by VIN number and that they have the parts in stock / available.

Edited: Adding this for more information (in case you are ever in the same situation): **Note: any parts numbers listed are for specific vehicle VIN numbers - please do your due diligence and verify any parts before you order** - I called an out of state Ford dealer and spoke with their parts department. He verified that they did not have the calipers I listed (the L2MZ items, below) and that they were back ordered throughout their network. I referenced an alternate part number that was listed on my dealer's estimate and he said that those were incorrect based on my VIN. - I asked him to give me any part numbers that should work on my Edge - he did, and they included these: NBRC-54-RM, NBRC-55-RM and BRCF-296, BRCF-297. - I searched online for the BRCF models, and Rock Auto came up. Checking their site, they showed in stock. - I then called my dealer's part department, spoke with the parts manager, and based on my VIN, he said the BRCF models would work and that he could get them in a day or so. Why, when parts are showing back order with no known date for availability, someone in a company's parts department doesn't do (for them) any easy cross-reference of those parts to find something else is beyond me. - Assuming that everything else goes as planned, buying all the parts except the calipers through online Ford retailers will result in a net savings of $500 - $550 depending on final taxes and shipping over my local dealer. (The overall work included new calipers, rotors, pads and brakes hoses for the rear, hoses for the front, brake line flush plus emergency brake cables being replaced). Original post: Vehicle is AWD and has the standard aluminum-clad 18" wheels. Trying to find these parts "new", which have been back ordered everywhere I've checked. My dealer's service department gave me these part numbers: L2MZ-2V552-DRM L2MZ-2V553-DRM (They are the remanufactured version Ford is using and come up as the correct parts). Prices listed online are in the $80 - $90 range. On the assumption that I am unable to find any, has anyone used aftermarket calipers (and had them installed at the dealer)? If so, any information would be appreciated. My dealer's service guy said they don't have a problem installing customer-supplied parts, but I'm not sure if that included aftermarket items. On a side note, Rock Auto does list, among others, Raybestos calipers that, looking at the photos they provide, appear to be remanufactured FoMoCo units. There are numbers on them, but I'm not sure where to cross-reference those numbers to see if they are the same as I listed above, or if they are old parts numbers, which were CT4Z-2552-A and CT4Z-2552-B. I asked, but wasn't given an answer at my dealer as to why or when those parts numbers would have changed (ran out of the CT4Z-2552-x models and started using remanufactured L2MZ... models??). Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for that information. Following up on that, has anyone had an aftermarket system installed, and if so, were any of the parts already installed (antenna?, etc.) able to be re-used, or did your vehicle need to get pulled apart for all new items? Thanks in advance.

Unfortunately, (and due to past experience) I don't have much faith that my local dealer will have any information beyond what is listed on the Ford parts site (which only displays fob style units). When the Remote Access unit first became available, my dealer and his parts people didn't know anything about it until I showed them what I had found online. Not positive, but I may have been one of the first people to order one in my area. I do recall the tech that installed and programmed it said it was the first he had done. It would be different if you had the opportunity to speak directly with the techs that deal with these systems, but you don't. The parts guys just order and move product so I'm not going to waste their time. For that reason I'm looking to see if someone has already put in a different system. Thank you for responding.

I recently received an email about the Ford Remote Access smartphone app (NOT the Ford Pass app): "We are writing to inform you that due to the upcoming discontinuation of the AT&T 3G network, all Ford and Lincoln Remote Access subscriptions will conclude on December 31, 2020. You may or may not be aware, cellular network connectivity is required to operate your Ford or Lincoln Remote Access system, and unfortunately, AT&T is in the process of decommissioning the 3G network upon which the system relies. If your current annual subscription period would have extended into 2021, please be aware it will cease to function on December 31, 2020. For customers who previously renewed on or after January 1, 2020, you will be able to request a prorated refund for the unused balance of your subscription cost. If you are currently enrolled in an automatic renewal program, or actively choose to renew during the balance of this year, we have discounted the renewal rate for the remaining calendar year. We appreciate and value you as a customer. While we regret any inconvenience this announcement may cause, we suggest you please contact your Ford or Lincoln Dealer for possible alternatives." - Has anyone found a reliable replacement that uses more current networks for communications (i.e., that won't be phased out in the short term)? If so, what did you choose and where did you have it installed (big-box store / local installer, etc)? I have a 2013 Edge Limited (push-button start, Nav, etc.). - If you have updated, what was involved and do all of the basic functions (remote start, lock / unlock and auto heat and cool / defrosters and seat warmers, etc.) still work? I'm hoping to find an upgrade path before the current app stops working, so thanks in advance for any responses. Paul

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/16918-playlists-on-usb-music-files-show-up-as-empty/?hl=playlists

Manually creating music playlists for use on thumb drive **This way of making playlists works well when you just want to add miscellaneous music files rather than full albums. For full albums, see the album version, below. Create a new folder on the thumb drive - call it 'music'. This folder should be the first thing you see when you explore the drive (it should not be placed inside of any other folders). Create a new folder inside of the 'music' folder - call it 'mp3'. **This folder can be called anything you like, but make sure to change the 'mp3' portion of the folder structure to match it** Copy all of the songs you want to have available into the 'mp3' folder Open a text editor (Notepad will work) Start making a list for the songs based on this folder structure: music\mp3\ To make things easier, you can start off by duplicating, like this: music\mp3\ music\mp3\ music\mp3\ Decide what this playlist will be called and save the file to the thumb drive as 'playlist name.m3u'. It should be saved to the same level as the 'music' folder (you should see 'playlist name.m3u' and the 'music' folder at the same time). For my example, I'm creating a playlist called '70s Playlist.m3u'. Using the folder structure list you already started (above), begin adding the mp3 file names, like this: music\mp3\O'Jays - Love Train.mp3 music\mp3\People's Choice - Do It Any Way You Wanna.mp3 music\mp3\Billy Paul - Me and Mrs. Jones.mp3 music\mp3\Looking Glass - Brandy (You're a Fine Girl).mp3 music\mp3\Pilot - Magic.mp3 music\mp3\Temptations - Just My Imagination (Running Away With Me).mp3 Note: in Windows, you can right-click on a file name and select 'Rename'. Once the file name is highlighted, click copy (control-c), and then paste (control-v) into your playlist file. Make sure to deselect the actual music file afterwards so that you don't change it by mistake. Make sure to save your playlist file. When done, you can right-click and 'open with' Notepad to modify. Thumb drive folder structure: >> Playlist 1.m3u >> Playlist 2.m3u >> music (folder) >>>> mp3 (folder) >>>>>> music files (mp3's) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- **This way of making playlists works well when you want to add full albums and then create playlists from individual songs from those albums.. Create a new folder on the thumb drive - call it 'music'. This folder should be the first thing you see when you explore the drive (it should not be placed inside of any other folders). Inside of the 'music' folder will be where your album folders will be placed. Copy all of the albums you want to have available into the 'music' folder. In my case, I'm adding these albums: The Ultimate O'Jays (folder) Ultimate Isaac Hayes - Can You Dig It (folder) Average White Band (folder) The Very Best Of 10cc (folder) Open a text editor (Notepad will work) Start making a list for the playlist songs based on this folder structure: music\ To make things easier, you can start off by duplicating, like this: music\ music\ music\ Decide what a playlist will be called and save the file to the thumb drive as 'playlist name.m3u'. It should be saved to the same level as the 'music' folder (you should see 'playlist name.m3u' and the 'music' folder at the same time). For my example, I'm creating a playlist called '70s Playlist.m3u'. Using the folder structure list you already started (above), begin adding the album and mp3 file names, like this: music\The Ultimate O'Jays\O'Jays - Love Train.mp3 music\Ultimate Isaac Hayes - Can You Dig It\Isaac Hayes - Theme From Shaft.mp3 music\Average White Band\Average White Band - Pick Up The Pieces.mp3 music\The Very Best Of 10cc\10cc - The Wall Street Shuffle.mp3 Note: in Windows, you can right-click on a file name and select 'Rename'. Once the file name is highlighted, click copy (control-c), and then paste (control-v) into your playlist file. Make sure to deselect the actual music file afterwards so that you don't change it by mistake. Note that the rename / copy / paste method works well here to make sure that the folder structure works properly. If there are any differences in the folder name or song names, the playlist won't work properly. Make sure to save your playlist file. When needed, you can right-click and 'open with' Notepad to modify. Thumb drive folder structure: >> Playlist 1.m3u >> Playlist 2.m3u >> music (folder) >>>> Album 1 (folder) >>>>>> music files (mp3's) >>>> Album 2 (folder) >>>>>> music files (mp3's)

Just wanted to add my (limited) experience with using thumb drives for music files... I picked up a Lexar 64 GB drive to try in my Edge. Just checked it - it's FAT32 formatted from the factory. Initially, I had loaded both mp3 and m4a (Apple lossless) files onto the drive. In my case, I had loaded duplicate songs using both formats. From there, created some m3u (playlist) files. What was a bit strange is that the system wouldn't directly play the m4a files via the playlists - would get 'unsupported' errors, but it did appear to play some of them when I was browsing the complete list of songs. Example: going through the list, play song 1 (mp3) - plays okay. Next song (same song, m4a version) - won't play. Next song (mp3) - plays okay. Next song (same title as previous song) plays, but is louder and has more detail and punch. Was able to recreate this without issue. Haven't had time to try to see why some m4a songs play but other don't. May be a bitrate issue, but have no idea at this time. Using an application called 'Tag & Rename' for working on music files and it shows that m4a file bitrates will vary quite a bit between songs.

Cell based. I imagine if you get a cell signal in your garage, it would work. That being said, I'm not quite sure which provider is being used, although I was asked which carrier I had for my phone when I filled out the pre-install form. My phone is Verizon. I would be a little concerned about the vehicle left running in a garage...

Quick update. So far, the remote starter has worked perfectly. Nothing better than getting to a warm car with an ice-free windshield.

Ford Remote Access kit installed - finally! The steps involved: - go to the dealer and fill out the 'form' (name, email address, VIN, phone carrier, etc.). - schedule for the Ford authorized installer to go to the dealer with the parts to install them - after the hardware is installed, have the Ford service tech do the programming portion to 'turn on' the module. (Just a note: service tech (I know him) wasn't thrilled that a bulk of the cost was assigned for the install guy which left very little for the programming side. In this case, my service adviser took care of the tech). - log in to the website / download app / enter information (email, SIM info and PIN) - test - at home, log in to the main web site / get redirected to the service provider's site to pay the $50 annual fee. I have the app loaded on two iPhones (work / personal), iPad and also have access through the web interface. All tested okay. The only time I couldn't connect was when the car was in the dealer's service bays. I imagine if I had tried more than once it would have probably connected. There's supposed to be a shock sensor / alarm interface that will send an email / text if the car alarm has been triggered. Hopefully, this has been set up (it's a jumper in the main module). Haven't tested it yet. App is pretty basic - start / stop, lock / unlock and find (beeps horn). While a bit pricey for what it does, it will be nice to know that the car has actually started when the weather isn't great. Knowing that I can go back to my dealer (re: vehicle extended warranty) if there are any issues is a big bonus. Overall installed price: about $600

Thanks for the info, kirbyts. I started going that route last year, but had very little luck in finding a local installer (one that was recommended, anyway) that seemed interested in getting involved. Probably because off all of the extras the Limited has. When I found the Ford-endorsed version, thought it made sense since I could go back to my dealer if I had any issues. My dealer finally got back to me and said I needed to call the supplier to sign up for the annual service and then the parts would be shipped. He gave me a number to call. So, I call the number and after a decent conversation, am told that the dealer has it wrong and that they need to get the parts ordered first, then I sign up for the service afterwards. Kind of what I thought in the first place. Nice that Ford is rolling this out without their dealers having a clue as to what they need to do to get the units installed. Even worse that the supply chain is giving out incorrect information and that, in my case, the end user is being asked to do the running around. Very frustrating.

I posted the same thing here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12788-winshield-fogging-with-ac-and-warm-temps/

Stopped into my dealer today. They haven't done one of these yet and need to get more information from higher up the food chain. Great. So my car could be what they experiment on to get it *just right* Also, parts are at least two weeks out from the supplier. In service-speak, I think that translates to mid-December or so. This could turn into more of a pain than it's worth.

Still waiting for a response from my dealer after sending a second email request for info. Not too stellar as far as getting back to their customers... My dealer's website (the one where you can select your dealer from the main Ford site) indicates $385.71 installed for the interface. But it also says: "Optional security feature provides shock/impact detector, perimeter alarm and theft alerts via text or e-mail" and "Requires Vehicle Security Kit 19A361 at an additional cost". Would be nice to know what this is, what it does and what it costs. Just a bit annoyed at this point. Completely expecting to be told that they have never installed one or that it won't work with my system...

Check this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13212-ford-remote-access-remote-start-via-smartphone/

Not sure if I've missed seeing anyone posting about it here in the forum, but I just found this: http://accessories.ford.com/aerial-asy-10667.html Remote Access Makes Your Smartphone a Virtual Keyfob Sean Johnston, 5/30/2013 Right now, the Remote Access system is available on the F-150, Super Duty®, Edge, Explorer and Lincoln MKX if your vehicle is a 2011 Model Year, or newer. You can also purchase it if you drive a 2013 model year or newer Taurus, Flex, Lincoln MKS or Lincoln MKT. Contact your local dealer for more information on pricing and availability. More vehicles will be added in the future, so stay tuned! I have a message into my dealer to see if I can add this on my '13 Limited w/ MFT, Nav and push-button start. <crossing fingers> This appears to be the site to set up the app: https://my.fordremoteaccess.com/home

Okay, thanks. It has been pretty sticky here, but don't really remember having this happen very much in other cars I drive / have driven. Just kind of annoying.

Hi all, Curious how many drivers experience this... Have a '13 Edge Limited, and have been having an issue with the windshield fogging up when the A/C is on and the outside temp is relatively high (mid 70's to 80's). A/C usually set to about 72 or so. Fan is set to blow at foot level, but I'm seeing moisture / fog build-up on the outside of the windshield - almost like the vents are allowing the cold air to leak through to the windshield and causing the outside moisture to condense on the windshield. Not sure that I've seen any other cars with the same problem. Wondering if this is common or I should ask my dealer's service department to dig into it. Don't want to have them pull the dash apart if they can't fix it. Thanks.

I thought about that. Only issue would be that if the emblem is too hard to remove, the chrome surround or my black grill may take the brunt of it. Got lucky this time in that the only damage I saw was to the base the emblem was glued to.

Thanks. I ordered a replacement from the guy on e-bay and it's already arrived. Haven't put it on yet - just have a feeling that someone is lurking around just waiting to get their hands on a *second* black emblem.

Nice ride - congrats! Always liked the red / black combo

I guess that some people really, really like the idea of a Ford emblem in black instead of blue. So much, in fact, that someone decided mine would look better somewhere else.

Not sure if that is accurate. If I'm wrong, I'd really like to have detailed information about it. I'm in exactly the same situation as funhouse69. Based on a conversation with my Ford dealer's service department, you cannot piggyback a Ford two-way system onto an existing factory remote start (at least for my limited with MFT and nav). From what they said, the existing system 'would need to be replaced'. That's all they said - no further details. Guess that meant that they didn't think it was a good idea or really weren't interested in doing it. On another forum member's suggestion, I went to a custom car installer's shop and asked about having a Directed (Viper) Smart Start system installed. They have either a two-way fob or cell-based system available that is supposed to work in conjunction with the Ford system (you can't have both cell and fob). Asked for a ballpark price and was told about $500. The installer was supposed to call me back later that day with more info, but never did. Either he doesn't need my business or has closed down... On a side note - because I can't see my car to know if it has started, I happened to try the remote start sequence (lock - start - start) several times in a row not knowing if it had started or not. When I went out to go to work, the car had started okay, but was still running. Looks like the run time may stack on occasion since mine is set for 15 minutes and it was still running almost 25 minutes later.

Could have been. There was enough snow - at least two feet and the Edge didn't skip a beat. Had three to four feet behind me where the plow had decided to leave extra and I backed right through it. Drove around the area for a while and had zero issues. Felt like I was driving a tank. Pretty impressed that it performs that well with stock rubber.