kevinb120

Funny enough, I love the newer headrests on cars. I have no idea how peoples heads hit them, my head ain't small, I'm 5'10" and its still over 3" away or more from my head, its identical to 05+ mustangs. I've worn my helmet at the track with those and never had a problem either??? To me these are the first useable headrests on cars. I don't get how it bothers people. Some people must let their heads flop around like a newborn's or something...

The 4300k will have plenty of blue tint to it. The colors are also effected by reflector types and shapes, and some manufacturers are able to 'prisim' the colors for certain efects. Infinity facets the reflectors so that they look blue from angles but white from the front. The Mustang reflector shape with the same temperature ends up being a lot less blue then the edges for some reason. When I get around to it, I'm switching to 4300k.

Its hard to find a road in the US where it's not slightly crowned to the edges to see if a car pulls or not. Does it pull to the right in the left lane of a highway where it's crowned left?

That's funny, as much as I speed(never in traffic) and do other things in various hot rods and bikes and what not, it drives me NUTS when someone doesn't signal, its the laziest fucking thing I've ever seen. If someone is within spitting distance in front of me and doesn't signal, its a good 10-15 seconds of horn for them, even if it's their driveway-hell I may stop in front of their house for a good minute of horn if I'm in the mood. If there's nobody around then of course its pointless to signal. But that's a real good way to kill a motorcyclist or cause an accident 5 cars behind your dumb ass. I've owned 36 cars, driven well over 20,000, been past 170mph many a time on 2 wheels and 160 on 4 and in 500,000 miles have never, ever, scratched a car off of a track. If somebody's around, use your signal. The biggest crackup is some asshole in an old Volvo who's creeping 10 under the limit clogging traffic, and at the last second turns without signaling. In a hard light median left turn lane or something, sure, signal in and turn it off at the light until a couple seconds before it goes green. Obviously if its a green/yield you leave it on.

The Edge is pretty peppy, but not being in my atypical supercharged hotrod or liter bike, I kinda drive around in it like grandma, kinda the idea of buying it and not making 165mph runs at night on a 10 sec bike.... What's the point of racing around in an edge? I could give you a headstart to get to 60 and from a dead stop pass you with the bike at 125+ before you see 85... Vehicles have a level of balance based on the weight, brakes, tires, balance, etc. The Edge really is not meant to be driven over 85mph safely, they shine at about 75mph on the highway.

X-plan is within ~$30 of invoice(base models a few bucks over, loaded ones a few bucks under), with no processing fee so another $200-500 less. They already bought it btw. Congrats on the new Edge! After 1000 miles or so the power will get up a bit, transmission will shift smarter and faster, and the MPG will go up, not to mention the exhaust will break in. You'll love it. I am a die hard hot rod fan and yet can't get over how quiet and smooth this damn thing is.... Even driving new $70+K MB's and the like, the Edge is just as quiet and the transmission at least as good.

Usually its grease or oil that makes them squeak, could be something got on it and/or just a batch of defective belts. I've never seen a specific cover or deflector used on a serp belt before???

I bought mine because its plenty for 'single guy', but my brother with a family is eagerly awaiting the Flex to replace the 03 Explorer he has.

That is a phenomenon that I don't understand and funny enough I was bored going through those today. A couple guys have turned over $30k on about $200 invested in that setup. The amazing thing is all the feedback, 90% of it huge glowing feedback before they even tried it. Yay, I just spent $20 for a tic-tac. People that DO install it THINK they feel something, but really its just their imagination. I have put $700 CAI/Tune setups in several newer Mustangs that do less then the claims for the scammers on ebay, and its an entirely different vehicle with the 'real deal'. Funny how effective the ploy is on Ebay, they make almost the profit margin of Nike or Coach with that stuff!

heh, the cheapie mo betta ones seem to work ok...I just know so many people that have used just about every kind of set out there with no issues on non DRL cars, but yea, if something happens you'd probably be SOL any way you do it.

Interesting, I haven't had any issues in the 05, 06, or 07 mustangs I had either, so who knows...

I don't understand why some people make this so inordinately complicated. The single element system runs off of a simple 12V source-I.E. the original headlight sockets that gave juice to the original bulbs. What the HELL is a relay supposed to do? ANY situation where your original bulb is on, the power goes to the balasts, any time your original bulb is off, no power goes to the balast. When the balast receives its 12-volt supply, the lights come on. How is it POSSIBLE in any way, shape, or form that a 'converted' HID bulb be on when it is not supposed to be???? That makes no sense whatsoever. Unless the car is DRL equipped, the entire system is an extension of your original bulbs, powered and fused the exact same way. And $700 for an aftermarket kit?? I guess every 5 sales the guy takes a 5-day cruise?? I could see it for genuine Sylvania or Phillips bulbs, but anything other then 4300K means there is no way it could possibly be from either company, as they don't make them in any other temperature. Everything else probably comes from the same plant in China. Going back and looking at that link, this is the EXACT kit that VVME and most of the other brands are based off of(the 'Fusion' version), including 3 sets I have had, just different labels.: http://www.lskoncepts.com/store/fusion-hid...n-kit-p-137.php I would say if you want to spend a few bucks, the 'middle' kit Xetronic set is probably the best bang for the buck, but may be somewhere for even less. None of these use Sylvania bulbs. EDIT: after looking at it again, definitely the Xetronic set in 4300K. I may spring for a set of them somewhere down the line.

I don't think they should ever have fogging INSIDE the assembly. YOu will see a bit of water in the outter band of jewling for a few moments when you wash it, but never inside the 'cell' of the light.

The programing allows for a slight bit of hold throttle, i.e. if you get on the gas to say 45mph and let off to half or less throttle, it holds the rpms for a few instants anticipating if you are going to stop it again and stay in gear instead of full throttle-to nothing and drop down to very low rpms. It's actually a pretty slick bit of programing that emulates what a manual driver would do in certain situations. Shifting into N at a strange time may have initiated the sequence for a second. Although with thousands of lines of code to adapt to millions of situations and doing something *ahem* stupid like shifting into N on a highway may just confuse it to what your are doing. Older cars had a basic program that was simply throttle/pressure based with nothing adaptive other then basic paterns of heavy foot=hold rpms a bit longer and shift a bit firmer/light foot= shift earlier and smoother. Its if you were standing in line at the grocery store in line and someone you didn't know was even there grabbed your ear lobe, you wouldn't do something 'normal' either. Personally I think the Ford/GM 6F is one of the best automatics from any maker to come along. When you have a completely computer controlled transmission and even throttle pedal, in the millions of possible combinations you are going to find a 'hole' in the programing somewhere. Most cars don't spend thousands of hours of development into going 4-5mph or shifting into N. Its if it does something hokey at 35mph or leaving a light or going 5mph EVERY SINGLE TIME I would worry about it. I was driving our 07 CLS550 today and the transmission in an 80k car does dumb shit sometimes too. Actually I think the edge reacts much better to throttle imputs.

I thought they said something about that with SYNC and the upcoming 911 upgrade, but don't quote me on that.

I just noticed it for the first time tonight after you said that, that's the first time I've looked at it when using it There has GOT to be enough ambient lighting around even from your own headlights that can get your finger to the button area, as the rest is simple.

I sold Acuras for a while(highest regarded nav systems) and the Ford one has a much more useful interface, better voice to road names by far and is very good prompting the correct turn on areas like access roads where there are a lot of entrances. Personally I don't use nav's because I know where I'm going, but I've driven hundreds of different cars with them(including an 07 CLS550 to lunch today) and I really like the Ford interface much better then anything from BMW/MB/Acura/Infinity and the like. Personally I think the Toyota and Honda ones are like simple Clarion units they don't even develop, they just dump them in the dash like it was from Best Buy. I'll have to see if the local Targets and Kmarts show up on them next time I drive something with it.

Could just be normal noises. Brake rotor dust on the rotors rusts instantly when wet, like after rain or a wash, and obviously cleans right off as soon as you use them. Rotors do get a microscopic 'grain' from being used 99.9% of the time going forward. If the car got wet from rain(or even dew or high humidity), that little bit of rust build up and backing up may make it sound like its 'dragging' a bit. High performance car pads are usually much worse, where they will always squeak when backing up in some cases. I can hear brakes drag a bit even after I just finished washing the car, or it sat a few days. Back into your driveway a few times and see if it does the same thing in the morning. You will always be a bit more hyper-sensitive to noises when you first drive away from home, typically tired and cold to boot I'm assuming its like a slight dragging sound rather then some sort of thunking?

I got gains on my GT Mustangs, but with the V10 and Cobra yea you might not get a boost there as Ford probably milked it for all they could from the factory for greenie 'target' vehicles like that. A lot of other cars from Japan are tweaked to the max so they only give a small gain of anything with a tune. The newest Ford stuff seems very favorable to it, now that I think about it, older Mustangs I have had(including an 01 cobra) didn't realy gain much from tunes and CAI's, usually single digit gains. A cai/tune on an 03-04 cobra seemed like a revelation when they got 20hp gains(no exhaust or pullies obviously), the 05+ was a real surprise to get so much out of them. Having owned an 05, 06, and 07, I kinda forgot how much effort I used to put into getting 8 extra hp.

You're just paying for the name in most cases. I went with the other seller for this set because it seemed a bit more convenient and a little less $$ I actually wanted to try one of the least expensive kits on purpose, works exactly like an expensive set, looks the same, same connectors, same bulbs, same everything. If there was a set made in the USA that was a little more I would buy simply because of that it but none are.

Isn't the lower body of the car black?? Unless you painted the cladding why would you want the splash guards in anything but black?

LOOKS GREAT! ESPECIALLY IN THE LIFE-SIZE PHOTO :happy feet: WAS IT HARD TO REPLACE THE WINDOW TRIM??? I MAY HAVE TO CONSIDER THIS AS I REALLY LIKE IT ON THE EDGE LIMITED FOR 08. AND HOW DO YOU GET THE SKULL CAPS OFF? ARE THE TAPED ON OR SNAP INTO PLACE?

Why didn't she get the G35X AWD sedan, costs less then the coupe and slaughters the Saab in every single category, not to mention the grand canyon cliff of Saab resale value? I've lived here 25 years, know just about everything there is to know about cars being in the business, can tell you where you can get a Lotus, Bently, Ferrari, Suzuki, Vespa scooter, or Buell motorcycle, and I have NO clue where to even find a Saab dealer

I'm at 1800 miles now, but 800 miles ago checked a tank at a woeful 13.4mpg! That DID include a lot of full throttle runs, my full commute is back roads and I drive fast(5 miles one-way). Big thing was letting it warm up for extended periods, sometimes 20 minutes + I was breaking it in very hard then, so next tank I drove a bit more sedate, fast but not excessively full throttle(every now and again though) and reduced my warm ups to about 3 minutes average and was at 15.6mpg, all same short commute. I can't believe how slow some people go, I'm now in a 'slow' suv and am trying to behave and I still leave people way in the distance leaving lights. Took it to NY over the weekend, going up 280miles mostly high speed('highway' for me is about 70-75mph average), fully loaded with 4 people and bagage, but got stuck in almost 1 1/2 hours traffic on the belt parkway and LIE, average including some visiting around town 20.8mpg Drive home, much less traffic and including a couple drives to work and back 21.9mpg on that tank. All crapola 87 octane winter mix. The gauge was pretty accurate, read a little low for city driving and a little high for highway. Meter was reading 24mpg on the trip back before the two days of driving to work and back. AWD with Vista roof, so she was a bit heavy loaded with people. At 1800 miles power has become noticeably stronger.

Stole the words out of my mouth.... You get used to it. Still think they need to dial in a touch more rear bias personally.