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Welcome! Let us know how your search pans out, and hope to welcome you soon to Edge ownership

Hope they get it fixed pronto, Nicknack!

Run through the usual checklist for any vehicle: drives well, shifts well with no hesitation/jerkiness, no clunks/clicks/rattles, no leaking fluids, fluid color, smell & level ok, no unusual smells in cabin, etc. Compare to a new Edge if you can. Then, specific to the Edge: PTU (although I think mostly happened to the 2007-10 crowd) issue (check under car for signs of leaks) A/C should operate & drain properly (should see water puddles on the ground; air should be cold) Door Latch Ajar problem (primarily driver front door) - door should close without effort Panoramic Vista Roof (lovingly called a BAMR) - should operate easily and quietly. May want to get a deflector for the roof so any road trash doesn't hit it. Liftgate (rear hatch) should open & close with normal effort. If it is a manual liftgate, might want to slam it shut kinda hard a couple of times to make sure the glass doesn't shatter. Rare, but does happen. Bubbling or rust on the paint GPS & navigation should be accurate Satellite Radio should work (if you have the service) PCM Programming up to date MFT/Sync up to date Cabin Air Filter should be new, and clean I'm sure others will be glad to add on HTH.

Welcome to the forum, glad to have you here! I would contact Ford directly (National Customer Service) about the leaking gas tank issue, and document thoroughly (pics & paperwork). We do have a rep here on our forum (Tricia) you can contact as well (though I think it takes 5 posts to use PM).

Cleanup's a PITA! Hope the Edge survived the trip without getting road tar and other nasty stuff all over it.

Sounds like a combination of a bad headlight switch and turn signal switch. Could be a bad ignition switch as well. Are any other electronics operative with the key removed? There is a courtesy period of 10 minutes I think with the radio/electronics I think, so after that. Can you switch to low beams with the engine off/key out when the high beams are on?

Cool! Good luck

I'd also make sure the PCM is uptodate on its' calibration. Other TSBs relating to valve body update MIGHT apply, but PCM calibration is where I'd start. 13-3-18: 3.5L TI-VCT OR 3.7L ENGINE - 6F50 OR 6F55 TRANSMISSION - SLUGGISH ACCELERATION FROM A ROLLING STOP - FOLLOWED BY A HARSH BUMP OR SLIP

Welcome, Canadian friend, and congrats on your new Edge! Mods (installed & planned) look great so far

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your Edge! Pretty nice li'l vehicle to drive, and fun to boot looking fwd to those pics!

I had a '92 & '95 SHO as well, nice! Congrats on your upcoming addition(s)

Keeping track of codes to get the 5% discount on any RockAuto orders, got the idea from another community. Feel free to update with the discount code and expiration date. TIA! Using Your Discount CodeEnter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your parts order total. Discount only valid for self-service orders placed online. 2365753921869947 Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. Code must be entered before order is submitted to receive discount. Expires on September 14, 2014. The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices.

None of these contact points worked for you? Contact InfoPhone (404) 721-2282 EMail DynamikiLLu51ons@gmail.com, whiteis33@yahoo.com Owner Francis Cofounder-Asad Dynamikillu51ons@gmail.com Txt 313 320 3228

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your Edge! Details/photos most welcome Good luck & enjoy!

Heat shields are located on the exhaust manifolds and on the catalytic converters. If you follow the exhaust pipe(s) from back to front up to the engine, you will first encounter the cat shield, then the manifold shield, in that order. Pretty sure you will have to jack up the Edge and check them from underneath. Per the 2007 (I know your is a 2011) workshop manual: INSPECT the exhaust system for loose or missing heat shields or foreign material trapped between the heat shields and the exhaust system components. If any heat shields are loose, INSTALL worm gear clamp 7L5Z-5A231-AA and tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in). If the heat shields are missing, INSTALL new heat shields or exhaust system components as necessary. If a rattle, noise or buzz condition persists, INSTALL a new heat shield or component as necessary. For the exhaust manifold heat shield: Removal Remove the LH catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00 .Remove the LH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S). For additional information, refer to Section 303-14 .Remove the 3 bolts and the LH exhaust manifold heat shield.

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your Edge! Got pix? Did the Escape help steer you towards the Edge?

TSB 13-1-15 for reference: TSB 13-1-15 ANTI LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS)ADVANCED TRAC WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED - DTCS P193C AND U0401 - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 12313.pdf

I think it is stuck on with adhesive, so working it with a hair dryer/heat gun and fishing line/dental floss should work.

No known problems really with disconnecting the battery. But the PCM will have to relearn your driving habits/parameters, so you should follow the relearn/retrain process in the OM (pg 331 I believe). Pg 330 also has some good info on battery maintenance.

Do you have 35w HIDs or 55w? Self-built capacitors or bought from a vendor? If you have the 55w set, you should put the harness and take power directly from the battery. Unless you want to put each headlight on its' own fuse. OEM HID equipped Edges have separate fuses.

Hate dropping the hood like an anchor to close it? Here's a brief pictorial to help adjust the latch (thanks, wisdomsp!): http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13154-adjusting-hood-latch-on-13-edge/?do=findComment&comment=114453 Caution: May only be for '11+ Edges.

Just checking

If you are sure the strut/mount is seated properly and the bushings on the stabilizer endlink look ok, then go on and check the bushings on the control arm. A bad bushing could cause the control arm to contact the frame.

If you do need to polish the wheels, that is, get rid of scratches and swirls, at this stage of the game, you could get away with a finishing polish like Meguiar's 205 and a 3" polishing disc on a dual action polisher. But if you are looking to wax the wheels to keep them clean, you can use any high-quality durable wax or coating. Collinite 845 is a perennial favorite (warm up the product and apply thinly), or maybe something like Meguiar's Ultimate wax. Choices are quite wide, if you want to, look up reviews on Amazon or Autogeek etc. and see what fits your expectations. If you want to go a step further to the pro level, you can put on a coating like Opticoat, CQuartz Finest, etc. Pull the wheels to do the work if you want them looking good & clean through and through. Though I think you can get pretty good coverage for waxing/sealing the entire wheel by hand. Polishing is another matter. Make sense, or did I confuse you?

Hopefully they have the problem of the pwr liftgate addressed in the 2015, if it indeed comes with a) 2 struts, and has the foot/wave activation feature like the Escape.