RustyEdge
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Everything posted by RustyEdge
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Just thinking out lout here, but wouldn't the DRL's pull power from the turn signal wire that delivers power only when the signals are on? So wouldn't a factory turn signal DRL pull power from the constant wire and not the alternating power used for the actual blinker? If so then connecting the EDGE2 DRL's to the same intended turn signal wire that delivers power only when the blinkers are activated as opposed to a constant power shouldn't be a problem. If my theory is correct there is no need to tie into the rear turn signals, unless I'm totally missing something which is a definite possibility
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Like others said it isn't a compatability or other issue with the DRL's. Maybe if the lights were installed via the manufacturer's instructions (i.e. white wire hooked into the headlight power) there might be something wrong with their splice causing intermittent problems with power/signal to the HID's? Just a thought.
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Sounds like you might need a harness. I had problems with mine firing when in the auto setting and starting the car. When it would cycle the slight drop in power wouldn't be enough to ignite the ballasts. I changed my harness to the morimoto harness with a ground on each side and haven't had that problem since. I would try not using auto an seeing if this still happens. Going from Auto to On when the headlights at night won't change anything, but going from On to parking should turn the headlights off. You can cyle back to Auto after that and should be ok.
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Hey Granite, I wired the white wire from the DRL's into the power wire from the light pipes. Yes this maintaines the courtesy (lock/unlock) functionality, which I think is a great feature and didn't want to lose it. The only difference between this wiring and the recommended installation is that when the parking lights are on the DRL's will be @ 70% now instead of the full 100%. But even at 70% these lights are brighter than the factory ones so it's still a win win. Also, I don't know about you, but the only reason I used to turn the parking lights on at all was to turn the factory light pipes on, especially around dusk. Now with the DRL function I don't have any need to even turn the parking lights on, I just wait until the headlights come one now and this keeps the DRL's at 100%!! -Russ
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Hey CMOS, someone can correct me if I'm wrong but if you hook the DRL's up as per the MFR instructions you actually loose the courtesy or unlock function of the stock light pipes. The new DRL's white wire is hooked into the headlights which at least on my '11 do not flash or come on when the car is unlocked. Rather the turn signals and the light pipes flash and stay on for the courtesy function. The main power signal for these DRL's is the ingntion as per the relay, therefore when you unlock and there is no ignition they will not operate. If you want the courtesy or unlock function you need to connect the white wire to either the power wire for the turn signals or for the light pipes. I chose the light pipes simply because they are already down in the bumper and you then only need to run the black wire up to the turn signals. This will have the white lights of the DRL on when you unlock @ 70%, then when the ignition is initiated they will switch to 100% (as long as the door is closed). They will also then be @ 70% when the parking lights are on as opposed to 100% as per Dan's design but I would rather have that the lose the courtesy function. 70% for these lights is still muuuuuuuuch better than the stock lights. Hope this helps a little, I know I was confused in the beginning of this process but pretty much got it figured out now. Thanks, -Russ
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You can also hook the white wire up to the power wire from the factory light pipe wiring and you'll have the same outcome. That's how I did it, just as easy since the stock wiring is right there when you're installing them. They are supposed to be DRL's, so that's normal, and what the relay does for you. What we are discussing is keeping the courtesy light function (turning the white led's on when you unlock the car) as opposed to the standard wiring where you loose that function.
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Just an FYI Dan had stated before to not hook the Black wire to anything but the turnsignal and use them as anything but. They are not design to be DRL's and gernerate too much heat. -Russ
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Yea I did measure before I started too. Literally like 3" short or less.
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So I just installed mine and all went well!! Didn't have any issues with the splice connections and I hooked them up to the yellow power wire from the stock light pipes. Everything functions and I still have the courtesy function which is exactly what I wanted. Can't wait to see these at dusk The only gripe I had is that the wire coming from the controller to the passenger side DRL wasn't long enough to allow me to mount the controller where Dan had in his video. It was probably about 3" short of what I needed. I was running the wire across the fan and down by the passenger light, not sure where everyone else ran theirs. So I then was trying to mount it in front of the fuse box but the wire running to the negative terminal would be too short then. I ended up zip tieing it near the battery where I found an open spot. Not sure if it was just mine or if anyone else had this problem. At the end of the day it took me about 90 minutes after figuring out how to run the wires and taping everything up. I even taped off the connector from the stock light pipes to not let any water in, I'm a bit of a neat freak too so that slowed me down. -Russ
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Just a note, same as the switchbacks the amber lights ignite when the doors unlock and then switch to white a second or so after dimming. Seems that is if these DRL's are wired into the turn signals then they will function just as the switchback's do.
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Ok so it seems that this is only selecting where the units draw their signal from and the actual power comes from the harness. So we should just be able to connect them to the existing pipe's power. Seems like a simple enough solution. I'd rather have them function as the courtesy lights @ 70% then not at all. Thanks for the info!! -Russ
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I concur, I definitely don't want to lose the courtesy function of the oem lights by installing these. Dan, would you mind putting together a write up so we can maintain the stock functionality? I'm definitely going to wait to install mine until this is ironed out. Also, are the lights supposed to be 100% when the parking lights are on? I thought they were supposed to dim to 70% but from reading these posts it seems that 70% is wrong. Thanks, -Russ
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Any pics????
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I still haven't recevied my email. Hopeing that it's just a glitch and the mailman will bring mine today or tomorrow! Might take little longer to get to Jersey. ****** Just Kidding, checked my old email and they are out for delivery today!!! WOOT!! ******
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(Qty 4) 2011-2013 Ford Edge 20x8 OEM Wheels - BEST REASONABLE OFFER
RustyEdge replied to Cougster's topic in Wheels & Tires
Butler NJ eh!! I'm in Pompton Lakes so right down 23. Good to know some local folks. Sorry off topic, haha. -Russ -
Hey Cellbine, Thanks for the update, really looking forward to these!! Can't wait to install them! -Russ
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So I just got off the phone with their customer service and they say that it is a problem with the '11+ Edges (and some older mustangs). The controller sporadically sends 7 volts through to the line even when the turn signals are off, it only takes less than a 1v change to turn the whites off. So basically this will keep happening randomly when the white lights are on and I shouldn't be the only one that has this issue. Even if I switch to the newer 42 bulbs I will still have the same issue. Only way to resolve this at the moment is to solder in a 1amp diode on the turn and parking light lines, but I don't really want to cut the stock wires. The good news!! They have an Edge in their shop and the next batch of switchbacks that are going to arrive in 3 - 4 weeks will have a fix built in! So I'll leave them in for now and once the new bulbs come out (which will state some sort of "Ford Fix" on the website) I'll pick up a pair of those. Interesting find! -Russ
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Just wondering if there were any updates on the first shipment? I know that they are supposed to be done this week but wanted to see if anything changed. Thanks, -Russ
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Anyone??
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Yea the type 1's don't need resistors, only the type 2's do. The bulbs didn't work at all without the resistors. I actually spoke to VLED's customer service today and they mentioned something about the voltage on the Edge. The white lights come on when it senses less than 5 volts (not positive on the actual voltage but same theory) and when it's higher the amber lights come one. The difference between the voltage when the running lights and the turn signals are on is low so the bulbs get confused. I'm still waiting on a return call from the manager to confirm though. I'm thinking they might be wrong since I wouldn't be the only one with this issue then. Can anyone with confirm the wires that were used to connect the resisters? I used the following which I found on here somewhere: Front Left: Blue/green = power + Black / green = ground Front Right: Yellow/purple = power + Black / gray = ground Thanks, -Russ
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These are from V-Led's. I sent them the same description and they only offered me a return & replacement. But the lights that I purchased were 24.99 and have been discontinued. The only ones they have now are 79.99, no idea what the difference is but the price difference is crazy!! This only seems to happen at night when the white lights are on, maybe the resistor is overheating? They are 50W 6Ohm but I didn't get the resistors from vleds. Maybe they can't handle the load when the light are on for a little while?
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I thought of those for my Edge but realized that I don't like rims with black outer edges as much. I think it actually makes the rims look smaller than they are as they blend into the tires a little more. On another note, sorry to hijack but, what is different about the Heat and Tail lights on the appearance package? Looking online I don't see a difference.
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I have the 5k Type 2 Switchbacks installed in my '11 Edge and I recently noticed that intermittently the bulbs are flickering when switching from the white to the amber. When the running white lights are on and the blinker is turned on sometimes the bulb will flicker white and then switch to amber. I attached a video as well. This will happen repeatedly unless the blinker is turned off. It happens to both bulbs and is intermittent, I've noticed it more at night when the HID's are on but that might just be a coincidence since I can see them reflect in other cars better at night. Any ideas on what it might be? I do also have 6 ohm resistors connected to both bulbs. Not sure if it's a heat issue with the resistor? But I did check them when this problem was occurring and they weren't hot. Thanks, -Russ Switchback Hesitation.MOV
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I concur, it's an SUV not a racecar. The only thing worse is a spoiler on a pickup.........
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I don't know if they actually make a black one, even the sport comes with a chrome strip. I would plasti-dip it! -Russ