RustyEdge

Hey Omar, a spacer would definitely eliminate your rubbing issue. I have the 20" Explorer sport wheels on my '11 currently with a 3mm spacer upfront to stop the rubbing. The rear's are fine and don't rub so you can get away with one pair. -Russ

Indeed it is, but atleast for me they quoted $10.22 for shipping brining the overall total to $26.72. The one I found on ebay was $22 shipped so worked out better for me. I'd defiantely price Levittown out just to see. -Russ

Yea you will need the hood sensor, but check yours first as some cars already have the sensor. Mine did not but yours is a few years newer so maybe you'll get luck. If not, the cheapest I found it was $22 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2012-Ford-Edge-Remote-Start-Hood-Switch-Sensor-OEM-NEW-Genuine-BT4Z19G366A-/191426719987?hash=item2c91ebf0f3 Quick & free shipping too. -Russ

That looks right, it's the same kit I used in my '11 but with two keys. Here is a link to the one that I used, you'll see it's the same part number but only one key. I only needed one remote start key and it's $155 cheaper than the one you sent a link for: http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-thru-14-F-150-OEM-Genuine-Ford-Remote-Starter-Kit-Plug-N-Play-FACTORY-NEW-/161501215986?hash=item259a38fcf2&vxp=mtr If not for $70 more the same seller has a two key version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-thru-14-F-150-OEM-Genuine-Ford-Remote-Starter-Kit-Plug-N-Play-RPO-NEW-/181322577281?hash=item2a37aaf581&vxp=mtr -Russ

The model of rim would help, that is unless the manufacturer only makes one wheel.... Don't even see that mfr on Steeda's website.... I might be interested but need more info or pics for sure. -Russ

That or 9005 works as well. I had trouble getting the 9006 bulbs installed without removing the headlights, but tried the 9005's and about 10 seconds later both were installed.

I have an SEL with the black trim and chrome clad handles. I thought about plasti-dipping them but actually like the contrast which is why I also kept the top strip on the grill & headlights chrome and didn't black them out either. I only use my oem chrome clad wheels in the winter, otherwise I have the 20's from the Explorer sport which are black and machined. I really like the look of the chrome handles with those too. -Russ

Plasti-dip will cost you $6 at most... you can still get a semi-glossy look if you use their Glossifier for another $8. I would try that first and you'll probably like it. Worst case is you peel it of and are only out an additional $14. -Russ

That's awesome news, I was affraid that I might actually need to replace the motor. Would any silcone lubricant be ok or is there something else that would be better? -Russ

Enigma-2, so if it's "mistimed" does that mean I should try the re-initialization? I don't really want to take the glass off myself, seems kinda sketchy but I might try a silicone on the tracks as well to see if that helps. Thanks, -Russ

I recently started having issues with my BAMR too. It was always slow to close and then got even slower. One day it would get about 4 inches from closed and stop, then retreat back to the partially open position. The only way to get it to completely close was to pull it with one hand while holding the close button. It seems to open normally and close to the partial position normally, just can't close all the way. Because it seems to slide normally I don't think it's a lubrication problem but not sure what the "out of sync" issues would look like so I haven't re-initiated them yet. It also pops up to the vent position and closes from there with no issues. Any info would be helpful since I have this awesome glass roof that I'm afraid to open for fear that it won't close! Thanks, -Russ

Unless its from a '15 the sport model would be a 22" wheel.

Hey Dan, I had posted this in another topic, but I found the Diode Dynamics Tail-as-Turn module (DIY kit) and wondered if we would be able to wire you're DTBL tails for the '11+ to integrate the turn signal into the brake light. http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/21872/s/tail-as-turn-module-diy/category/1441/#!prettyPhoto Looks like you did this here, any chance that you could advise on how to wire it properly? or maybe offer a kit yourself that would give us the same effect? This would open up the existing turn signal bulb for an additional reverse bulb (which you could package the bulbs together ) Everyone is looking for more light out of their reverse bulbs, and while the LED's you have are great, doubling the amount of bulbs would be even better! Thanks, -Russ

Definately don't take the weights off, you do need them (at least some of the / or more of them) but then they won't be able to see their mistakes. Most likely they will throw the wheels onto the balancer as is and see if it tells them to remove some or add additional weights. You could ask them to clean up any remaining residue from the previous or removed weights. They should really clean them off completely, but I haven't seen that often. A little bit of goo gone will do the trick of the remaining adhesive bothers you after all is said and done. -Russ

It does sound like the counter weights were there at one point. Normally they remove the previously applied ones when installing new tires and start from scratch which does leave a residue that they're usually not too diligent in removing. The small amount of residue shouldn't affect anything other than being a dirt magnet now. This doesn't mean that anything is damaged or that there are missing weights. Each rim can be slightly different from one another along with the tires being slightly different which is why everything needs to be balanced individually. Either way within two weeks of installation I would bring it back to the same place for re-balancing. Any reputable place will gladly re-balance them for you at no cost within such a short amount of time. If they did indeed place new weights that fell off then it is their fault and they should stand by their work. -Russ

Yea same thing here, I just deal with it. I also get the occasional volume spike when using the steering wheel controls. Again, I don't think there's anything you can do on either end. Maybe a new radio all together but that might be a little dicey with the HVAC controls and everything else being integrated.

What would shipping to NJ (07442) be ? Maybe take $50 shipped?

I just did this and found two different solutions. The owners manual will tell you one way, which I would start with, but not sure if it will activate the remote start features of the FOB. Also check out post #18 on the link below for a slightly different method: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/ I think the procedure in the manual pairs the fob to the car allowing you to use the remote lock features but you might then need to perform the second procedure to activate the remote start buttons. -Russ

I second that!

I don't know what size you need but I have my '11 Edge saved in Amazon and it tells me that these will fit. Not sure how much that actually helps but figured I'd throw it out there. -Russ

Thinking about this a little more, I don't know if typical factory style LED tails that have the turn signal built in use LED's with dual intensities (probably not correct terminology but I'm no electrical genius). If they do then this kit won't work with the DTBL tails since the actual LED's used for the brake is separate from the running light LED's and therefore they probably only have one intensity? -Russ

I was looking at the Diode Dynamics site and found their Tail as Turn modules to be pretty cool and cheap. This turns any LED tail light into the turn signal as well, which would then free up stock turn signal light location. You could then add a white LED light there, splice it into the reverse light and double the area and output of the reverse lights. I think this would look great with the DTBL LED tails since the lenses are white for turn signals as well. http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/21872/s/tail-as-turn-module-diy/category/1441/ Just wanted to see what you all thought of this? I wasn't sure what it would look like with the "C" shaped running light led's on and have the brake light flashing as the turn signal though. I think this mod looks great on cars that don't have this type of running led light and use the same brake led's for the turn, but unsure of how the combo would look with the DTBL tails. At $10 I might just go for it to see what it would look like. I would use the quick splice connectors instead of cutting the wires as they do just in case I don't like the look. -Russ

Thanks I have an SEL w/ the auto climate. It's hard to tell if what was on because as soon as I put the key in it reverts back to the previously used setting. But I'm pretty sure that everything turned on (seats and all defrosters) which is awesome! I've never had a remote start before so I'm having fun with it now. Well worth the investment! Thanks for all your help on here! -Russ

Had a trip to the dealer yesterday and everything is activated and working like a charm! They charged an hours labor, so more than most were experiencing, but even with that the total cost was only $252. This includes an extra $22 for the hood switch. Now I have a third key and the remote feature works at a pretty good distance too. Granted I've only tested within line of sight, but mostly I start it when it's in the driveway anyway so I don't really need a lot of distance. I like that it has the auto feature too so I don't have to remember to leave the heat on when I get out of the car at night. I wonder if the auto feature will automacitally sense the outside temperature and adjust accordingly? (i.e. turn on ac or heat when necessary) Does anyone know? I read that one of the units did but wasn't sure the 100 series would. Thanks, -Russ

So just an update... I got the key cut at the local hardware store for $4! Win there! I programmed it myself so all the keyless features work and it starts the car. I called the dealer today and they put a call into their guy who installs the remote starts for them, apparently not a normal Ford tech, and he said that the system I got should just work and doesn't need to be hooked up to the IDS. In fact he has never hooked them up to the computer for activation before. So I thought maybe since I saw two procedures for programming the keys in this thread, one from the manual and one from the remote start learning, that I would try the remote start learning one. Did that and still no remote start, like I was thinking anyway. Called the dealer back and explained that I found the installation instructions from Ford which states specifically to use the IDS tool and exact steps. The service rep asked his tech and he never heard of the activation either... I have an appt Friday morning to have them take a look and I'm going print out the instructions from Ford, thanks to candurin. Well see what happens now... -Russ