RustyEdge

I think it has to do with the concave profile of the wheels themselves. So even if the brakes are smaller the shape brings the rim closer to the caliper and it rubs. Going from the Edge to the Ex wouldn't be a problem since the Edge wheels are more flush in design than the Ex wheels.

Here you go!! Put these on last year. You will need at least a 3mm spacer for the front to clear the caliper though. Either that or you can grind down the edge of the caliper bracket for clearence, but the spacer is much better. Mine came with silver center caps as well instead of the stock black from the Explorer. I actually like them better so I never bothered to buy a set of black ones. -Russ

Looks like you need to install a resistor for each light in order to get the correct functionality of the switchback. The same thing happened to me when I installed my type 2 switchbacks but others with the older type 1's don't need a resistor. Once I installed them mine worked as expected but with only one unforeseen complication. On occasion they will hesitate when turning switching from white to amber which is a sporatic issue with the controller on the Edge according to V-LED. See the link below for more detailed info. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14603-erratic-switchback-behavior/ -Russ

Maybe it could be water damage? I had one of the sets of DTBL DRL's that had the water seepage issue and this is exactly how the lights would be have in wet or humid weather. They would be dim, then flicker between full brightness and dim, then drop back to dim or randomly full brightless for a minute or so and then flicker all over again. I think water got into the controller and was messing with the connections, confusing the unit. Might not be but it might be worth a check on the seals to make sure they are water tight. When it was dry out for a few days in a row the lights would function perfectly.

There are a few kits that I've seen on here with varying price ranges. One option is a Morimoto kit from TheRetrofitSource.com which will run you about $150 and not sure about shipping costs. I've also heard about HID extra kits I belive but not 100% sure on that name Personally, I'm using a DDM tuning kit and I know a lot of others here (and on other forums) are using the same. The kits themselves are super cheap at $30 each, but they ship from overseas so the shipping is about $15 but when you look at the total cost for the kit you can't beat it. Some have had problems with their ballasts but seeing that you can buy 3 kits for the price of one Morimoto kit you could afford to have spares. Additionally they are offering lifetime warranties on their ballasts so that should be a non issue. I would say that DDM's wiring harnesses aren't the best and I actually ditched mine for a Morimoto which has much heavier wires and seperate fuses for each ballast. This way if one fuse blows I won't loose all of my lighting! You don't really need that for a 35w kit as the factory wireing will be sufficient, but it would be an option and figured I'd let you know. I've had my DDM kit installed for about a year now with no issues. You may have sporatic issues with one or both of the lights not firing when in Auto mode and would have to cycle the lights to off and then back on in order for them to ignite. This is not limited to any specific kit that I know of but I think most with the Morimoto kits don't have this happen as often. For me it's not worth the extra $$ for the kit to have to occationally cycle my lights to off and then back on. Hope this helps, -Russ

I concur, an aftermarket kit would be the most cost effective. Not to mention that they would be equal if not better than OEM depending on which route you go. You wouldn't need to cut or splice any of the factory wires, infact if you go with a 35w kit you won't even need any additional wiring and can just plug the ballasts into the factory harnesses. Now you will need to drill a hole in the factory cover on the back of the headlight. This is the plastic circle that you unscrew to get to the bulbs themselves. The hole is necessary so you can run the wiriing from the bulb to the ballast, and if you're worried about any warranty issues you could always purchase another set for about $30 online.

Muser, not sure you'lll be able to PM with less than 50 posts but if it doesn't work with Cinnamon for the LED Sills I'll be next in line -Russ

I have the DDM 55w 5000k's in my '11 Edge with Haolgen projectors and they're great! Light out put is much more and I don't get flashed by oncoming cars ever. I say for the HID's in general and forget the haters. As for the brand, I got the DDM's for the price and you could buy two sets (one for back-up) for the cheaper than one TRS or other. Now I have heard bad things about the DDM harness and I actually ditched that for the Morimoto. Not that my DDM harness was bad but I got a good deal on a slightly used Morimoto one and jumped on it. The quality of the wires is much better with the Morimoto so I can see why some people don't like the DDM harness. That being said, you're going 35W and don't really need the harness but I know some people prefer pulling power directly from the battery as to not over tax the factory wiriing. DDM's warranty is pretty good as well, haven't had to use it but I've seen the word lifetime being thrown around. Not sure the exact details about that but I wouldn't discount them based off price. -Russ

Unfortunately for PJ mine too are not as messed up and act more like Candurin's. Maybe that's the different between the ebay switchback and the v-led ones.

I didn't have this issue on my Edge but did on my WRX. I think the rubber seal surrounding the filter is thicker and less plyable then the oem filter if I recall. Just takes alittle more elbow grease. As long as the filter properly seated all you are doing is compressing the rubber surround. -Russ

I really like the LED strip on your headlights! Some of the others just have a strip accross the top but I really like it on the bottom. Well done!

Ditto! Same issue and Dan's response time and customer service is superb!

Ahah I see, I didn't realize the first versions has the controllers built into the lights. I did notice the different control module and that the new lights had a harness plug instead of the bare wires. Thanks for the clarification, looks like I'll be ordering the new harness before installation. -Russ

Hey Norm, I have the first version of the EDGE2's currently and the white wire is connected to the power wire from the factory light pipes which maintains the couresy function. The only downside is that when the parking lights are on, the white wire is triggered and the DRL's function at 70% (instead of the normal 100%) but are still brigher than the stock lights. I never drive with just the parking lights on so it's not a big deal for me. When the courtesy lights are activated by ulocking the car or opening the doors, I belive they are at 70% power as well. So my question now would be, will this adapter keep the lights at 100% when using the courtesy feature? If not then I see no need for the $15 dollar adapter from my perspective. Actually either way the adapter might not be a necessity for me since the courtesy feature is just that, a courtesy. The 70% illlumination is more than enough for it's intended purpose. -Russ

Everyone else should be jealous of our uncontrolled mods!

Hey Dan, is there any difference to using this harness as opposed to running the white trigger wire to the driver side parking light (yellow / blue wire)?

I think the v-led connector is for the Tritan bulbs and not the switchbacks. They apparently figured out how to eliminate the issue within the bulbs circuitry but had to implement for their production run. I wouldn't spend the 150 on the connector. I do see that your white flash is a little more severe than mine which might be due to the different bulbs. But as Candurin stated, for now I've just accepted it too and it's kinda fun to watch it randomly spaz out when it reflects off the car in front of me!!

Hey PJ, I actually had / have the same issue sporadically with my v-led type 2 switchbacks. Not sure if yours are v-led's as well but I did call them and they say it is a reoccurring issue with he 11+ Edges and some Mustangs. Below is the link to my initial post. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12689-led-switchbacks-hesitating/ Basically the controller randomly puts out a different voltage causing the circuitry in the switchbacks to be confused. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every time so your lights will work perfectly 80% of the time and then freak out every now and again. They were supposed to fix the issue when I last spoke to them back in the October / November timeframe and then implement what they were calling a "Ford Fix" for the lights. I was told to look for a note on their website so I've been checking and still haven't seen any note. I'm planning on calling them again to see if the fix had been implemented into their latest production run and will let you know if / when I hear. *Forgot to mention that I do have load resistors but that's because the switchbacks wouldn't work at all before I installed them. Doesn't seem to be affecting you. But you are not alone -Russ

Hi Dan, just to be clear will this cause the lights to no longer function as DRL's? or will they still function as DRL's bur maintain the courtesy feature? Thanks, -Russ

Yea I must stay that I am disappointed in the little things like this. I noticed that you have an SEL as well, I think the Limited has different glass to go along with the Sony stereo. I think that makes a difference in the rattleing, but still shouldn't happen on a brand new vehicle. My wife's Hyundai has more bass and nothing at all rattles! The bass also doesn't decrease as dramatically in her car as it does in the Edge. I know they are trying to prevent the speakers from blowing, but you lose the quality.

I have the same issue but haven't had a chance to pull the panel off yet to see what's going on. I also get rattleing from the seat belt on the pillar which is even more annoying because it's right in my ear!

I'm not an expert but that doesn't look too bad to me. Also looks to be mainly on the chrome clad part and not the wheel itself. Shouldn't affect the structural integrity in my novice opinion. I would say if it still hold air then you're fine. Sucks that it got damaged and it might bother you for some time but not worth replacing. -Russ

I love the way that looks! Great job! -Russ

Well that makes things a little easier! Thanks Wizard!

I actually just received a replacement set as well due to water seepage. I do still want them to still function with the courtesy feature and was planning on still installing the white wire from the controller to the power lead from the oem vertical lights. This is how my current DRL's are conneted and I still maintain the courtesy function. The only thing that I see will need to be added to the new set is I will have to extend the white wire coming out of the controller to be able to reach down into the bumper where the oem vertical light wires are. I don't see why they wouldn't function the same way (with the courtesy function) with that simple wiring change. The only downside is that the white DRL's will only be @ 70% when the parking lights are on instead of 100% as intended. It's worth it for me to retain the courtesy function. Plus I never really have only the parking lights on anyway, unless I wanted to also show off the Daytime LED tail lights more -Russ