Kitulu

I replaced the liftgate motor with a junkyard replacement. Liftgate started jerking a bit when raising and lowering a few months back. About a month ago, we got the horrible grinding noise and the liftgate wouldn't move. On the 2008, the liftgate motor and lifting arm are two separate things. Replaced the lifting arm (4 10mm nuts, plastic cover at the top, and a plastic holder/clip at the bottom. No dice, problem still exists. Has to be the motor itself. Do you have any idea how difficult it is to find a liftgate motor? Apparently, Ford changed the design to have the motor and arm as one piece around 2015 or so. You can find those all day long. Pre-2015, however, that motor has been discontinued by Ford. Hell, my local salvage yard that specializes in Ford/Lincoln/Mercury doesn't even have one. After two months of searching, I found one on E-Bay. Swapped it out yesterday, and the liftgate works like new again. Removed the arm (as above), then removed the motor (3 10mm bolts and washers, three electrical connectors, as well as the trim piece on the left side that just pulls off). Opened up the old motor, which has a large white plastic gear that the lift arm slots into, and a metal worm gear that slots into the drive motor and turns the large white gear. Opened up the motor one more level down, and discovered that the worm gear slots into a plastic hat bushing that is driven by a rubber bushing. Judging by the wear marks and rubber remnants on the hat bushing, it looks like the rubber bushing wore down enough to not make good enough contact to turn the gear train to lift the heavy liftgate.

I'm going to try to do it with the engine in place. I have access to a hoist, but removing the engine looks like a ton of work... out of idle curiosity, how much work was it to pull the engine out through the top of the car? I had planned to order the water pump and timing chain kit from Rock Auto, and replace the pump, chain, sprockets, tensioners, belt, spark plugs, PCV valve (while I have it all apart anyway). I've done the plugs before, and that took something like 4 hours start to finish due to the stupid design of the engine and placement in the car.

I uploaded the video to YouTube and updated the link.

2008 Ford Edge Limited, 150,000 miles on the odometer. I have a coolant leak. On the drive from NY to FL, my Dad and I noticed something dripping from under the front of the Edge when we stopped for gas, by the right front wheel. Coolant level was fine, so we thought it was condensation from the A/C and pressed on. We went a couple more hours, then I got a call from my Dad, who was driving the Edge. He had lost power, check engine light had come on, and the temp gauge had went into the red. He immediately pulled off the interstate and shut it down, and discovered that the reservoir was dry. There is none of the usual indications of a blown head gasket, i.e. white smoke from exhaust, choppy idle, coolant in the oil. We towed it from GA the rest of the way to the house in FL. I filled the reservoir with water to further diagnose the leak, jacked it up on stands and started the engine. There appears to be a trail of water coming down around the a/c compressor, and it is dripping off the bottom of the oil pan. It starts and runs fine, and the oil still appears to be good, with no chocolate milk. I haven't scanned the CEL yet, as my FORScan adapter is in my POD that gets delivered at the end of next week, and I don't want to drive it up to Autozone with it leaking and run the risk of it getting worse and dumping coolant into the crankcase. Am I looking at a water pump replacement here? I attached a link to a semi-crappy cell phone video of the leak. https://youtu.be/-n3Bc2UEL70 UPDATE (19 April 2023)- Well, I ended up having it towed to a local shop. I got the intake manifold, valve covers, coolant reservoir, spark plugs, and wiring harness out of the way. I ran into a roadblock with the power steering pump. The bolts would not break loose. I had a 10mm ratcheting wrench with another wrench to use as an extender, and two u-joints and three extensions trying to get to them, and gave up after two hours of various tool combinations and positions, and snapping an extension in half trying to break torque. Stupid, stupid, stupid design by Ford. $2600 in labor and additional parts that the shop had to order, including a new timing cover. When they pulled the old one off, they discovered that it had cracked at some point and been repaired with JB Weld.

Yesterday, my wife discovered that when you press "volume down" on the radio button, the volume increases, and when you press "volume up", it changes the station. I am assuming that the buttons need to be replaced. Can this be done (and if so, how), or do I need a new steering wheel?

I have an 08 Limited. The only time that the dash lights come on is if the headlights are on. I have found that the sensor is finicky as to when it will trigger the lights.

Well, as it turns out, there is a rubber plug on the rotor that is removable to access the adjuster for the e-brake shoes on that side of the car. It was adjusted all the way in. I removed the rotor, cleaned off a metric ton of rust, put the rotor back on, and adjusted the e-brake. Hopefully, it will pass inspection this week.

Ok, got an interesting one here. I had to get my Edge inspected today, and the right rear parking brake is weak, compared to the other three brakes. Since the parking brakes are only adjusted at the front and rear, it seems like there may be a mechanical issue in the caliper itself, or in the cable going from the rear adjuster to the caliper. Has anyone ran across this issue before?

Ironically enough, I just printed out a return label for that very cupholder. The bottle holder part is too large, and will not fit inside the large part of the front cupholder, thus causing the bottom part to not lock in. I suppose that it would work in the rear cupholder, but I did not want to use it there.

What is everyone using for inserts to make something the size of a Yeti waterbottle fit in the large front cupholder without rattling around?

Well, I got the keys, had them cut at Lowes, and programmed them. They start the Edge, but none of the buttons work to lock or unlock the doors.

Just in case anyone is interested, the torque for the steering wheel nut during re-installation is 35Nm (26 lb-ft)

So...if I have the original keys, I can order two new keys from Amazon and program them myself? https://www.amazon.com/Keyless2Go-Replacement-Expedition-OUC6000022-164-R7040/dp/B00Y1HUCBA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478981047&sr=8-2&keywords=2008+ford+edge+key

I ran it down to behind the passenger kick panel. I am not sure what the wire goes to, but it is switched power. I fixed the issue last month by moving the ground from the stereo ground lug to a smaller ground wire that is attached to the stereo ground lug. Makes no sense to me, but it fixed the issue.

I bought a dashcam last year for my PCS across the country. I was reluctant to leave it plugged into the power port all the time, as I was worried that it would drain the battery. I purchased a harness to hardwire the camera into switched power, and mostly succeeded. However, with the ground wire going to the chassis, it cut out almost all FM radio reception. Has anybody else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it, or where did you run the wires for your camera?

While driving from TN to FL today, I noticed that the a/c would blow warmer humid air when we were going through the mountains, when the rpm was over 3500. The temp gauge did not move from the normal position. I am towing a UHaul 5x9 utility trailer with my Honda Shadow and some houseplants on it, and the rear of the Edge has suitcases and the like with the seats folded down. The Tare weight for everything combined, including the Edge, is a little over 5000lbs, and the Gross weight is a little over 7000lbs. Is it normal for the a/c to cut out when the engine is under heavy load?.

If the sunlight is beaming directly onto the cluster, I cannot really see mine all that well, either.

I use Eagle chrome polish, which is a cloth-like substance that you tear off a wad out of the can. It works wonders on chrome, and also works pretty well to remove stuck-on crap from paint.

I just ordered this: http://www.amazon.com/Compact-Hardwire-Charger-Vehicle-Recorder/dp/B00L3XXRI0/ref=pd_ybh_3 which I can wire into the harness on the passenger side, once I figure out which wire is switched hot.

Do you have a link to that harness?

Are the 12v aux plugs always on? I bought a dash cam that plugs into the 12v power point, but even with the car off it is still getting power. I tried plugging it into the port that is on the console, and the port inside the center console, and they both are powered with no key in the ignition. If they are "always on", is there a way to make it so they only come on with the key?

I use a RAM mount in the Edge and on the bike.

That is usually the CV joing starting to go out.

For waxing, I use this stuff called IBIZ...my mom picked up a case of it about 15 years ago, I think we are down to the last few bottles, lol!

Mine stops short as well, same with the shade. You have to hold the button down after it stops for it to close all the way.