Kitulu

Congrats! I bought my 08 Edge a month ago. I had originally went to look at a Durango, but it was sold before I got to the dealership.

I was hoping to have some pics of my new additions to the Edge, but alas, it was not to be. I received the rear bumper protector for the Toyota Scion XB, and installed that with no issues. Well, almost. When I first put it on, it was slightly off center...fortunately, the 3M tape had not had a chance to set so i was able to reposition. I discovered that, if you place it as far towards the trunk as you can at about a 45 degree angle, and then "roll" it down towards the bumper, once you get it fully down and press firmly it will "pop" down over the edge (ha-ha) of the bumper and it eliminates about 90% of the gap caused by the protector not being tailor-made for the Edge. After applying pressure on the top for about 15 minutes, and letting the tape cure for a day or so, I can say with resolve that it is never coming off! I had also received the Weathertech vent-visors for the doors...unfortunately, the front passenger visor arrived with pieces broken out of the flange. As such, it would not fit properly in the channel and the window would "thunk" into it whenever it was raised. Fortunately, I ordered them through Amazon, so I was able to submit an order for replacement as well as a UPS scheduled pickup for the return parts. Once I get the replacements in, I will get some pics up.

I don't really use them much, they are more for my wife. She is barely 5' tall so now it is a little easier for her to get in and out...although it does make it a little easier to wash the roof, lol!

Unfortunately, it does not, and the link on the 2nd post of that thread is useless as well. I am not trying to remove the headrest, I just want to raise it up so I can get the LATCH belt for the child seat through it, instead of going to one side.

Does it move up at all? I can't get it to budge and I don't want to break it...

From the owner's manual: Memory seat and mirrors (if equipped) This system allows automatic positioning of the driver seat and outside rearview mirrors, to two programmable positions. The memory seat control is located on the driver door. • To program position one, move the driver seat and exterior mirrors to the desired positions using the associated controls. Press the SET control. The SET control light will briefly illuminate. While the light is illuminated, press control 1. • To program position two, repeat the previous procedure using control 2. A position can only be recalled when the transmission gearshift is in Park (automatic transmission). A memory seat position may be programmed at any time. The memory seat positions are also recalled when you press your remote entry transmitter UNLOCK control and the transmitter is programmed to a memory seat position or when you enter a valid customer code 1 or 2 on the keypad. To program the memory seat to remote entry transmitter, refer to Remote entry system in the Locks and Security chapter.. Note: The seat will not travel to its final position if the key is not in the ignition and the easy entry feature is enabled. Easy-entry/easy-exit feature (if equipped) This feature automatically moves the driver’s seat rearward 2 inches (5 cm) when: • the transmission is in N (Neutral) or P (Park) • the key is removed from the ignition cylinder The seat will move forward (to the original position) when: • the transmission is in N (Neutral) or P (Park) • the key is placed in the ignition cylinder

You may have to reset your mirrors and seat into the memory. Position them where you want them, then press the "Set" button and then the "1" or "2" button. From the Owners Manual: Memory seat and mirrors (if equipped) This system allows automatic positioning of the driver seat and outside rearview mirrors, to two programmable positions. The memory seat control is located on the driver door. • To program position one, move the driver seat and exterior mirrors to the desired positions using the associated controls. Press the SET control. The SET control light will briefly illuminate. While the light is illuminated, press control 1. • To program position two, repeat the previous procedure using control 2. A position can only be recalled when the transmission gearshift is in Park (automatic transmission). A memory seat position may be programmed at any time. The memory seat positions are also recalled when you press your remote entry transmitter UNLOCK control and the transmitter is programmed to a memory seat position or when you enter a valid customer code 1 or 2 on the keypad. To program the memory seat to remote entry transmitter, refer to Remote entry system in the Locks and Security chapter.. Note: The seat will not travel to its final position if the key is not in the ignition and the easy entry feature is enabled. Easy-entry/easy-exit feature (if equipped) This feature automatically moves the driver’s seat rearward 2 inches (5 cm) when: • the transmission is in N (Neutral) or P (Park) • the key is removed from the ignition cylinder The seat will move forward (to the original position) when: • the transmission is in N (Neutral) or P (Park) • the key is placed in the ignition cylinder

That is something that I don't understand about the 08 "Limited"...why was all the hard plastic not swapped out for leather?

Looks nice...kinda like a Jaguar and an Aston Martin had an illegitimate love child!

In my Intrepid, I had the amp bolted to the back of the rear seat, the 40 side of the 60/40 folding seat back, along with the crossovers. However, I had never planned to lower that side of the seat as the sub box was also bolted to the floor of the trunk at the same side. I would like to avoid cluttering up my cargo area with stereo components, so a small-ish amp that would fit in the stock location, or otherwise fit behind the panel would work for me. I may look into it more next month or so. ETA: Just had a thought...wouldn't the factory amp already have power and ground running to it, thus negating the requirement to run new power and ground wires?

Which amp were they recommending? Also, were you going to add the new amp in line with the factory amp, or bypass it (for the sub only)? Where is the factory amp, anyway?

yes, yes they are!

The stock sub is dual voice coil and 8". It fit in the stock enclosure just fine, no clearance issues...you just have to put all eight screws in and tighten each one a little at a time to get them to line up correctly. I got all my speakers from Crutchfield. The mid-bass in the doors is enough to vibrate the door panel, but it does not "intrude" into the overall sound too much for me. In my Intrepid I was running 6 1/2 components in the front, 6x9s in the rear, and a 10" sub in a ported box in the trunk, all running off of an Infinity 1000w 5 channel amp, so I am actually used to more bass in my ride. I am going to wait until the speakers break in before I decide if I want to try to upgrade the factory amp or add a second amp for the sub.

I don't know about the glass, but when I took the door panels off of my 08 Limited, there was a lot of sound-deadening material behind the panel.

It took me a little longer than I expected to install. The nut plates that Dee Zee uses are a PITA when tightening down the bracket mounting bolts, I ended up using a 45 degree screwdriver and a long Allen key to brace the nut plates. Putting the boards on the brackets was easy. Place the bolts through the holes, slide the board to where you want it, then tighten the nuts. I also discovered that, if I am too heavy on the gas when backing off the ramps, the Edge will fling the ramps across the garage... :peelout:

Well, I finally got the speakers installed last night. Fie on you, Ford! Fie! Why did you use three different types of fasteners on the door panels! Don't get me started on the removal of the trim in the trunk area for the sub...The best thing was that you don't have to remove it all the way, which is a good thing because I do not have a T50 torx bit in my bag of tools. Taking out the floor cover, rear kick panel, right cargo organizer, and pulling up the fasteners for the trim gave me sufficient space to replace the sub. BTW, the screws that come with the sub are long as hell, but they work fine. You have to use them, the stock screws will not work with the Polk sub. Now, on to the sound quality...I powered up the stereo with some hip-hop (for the bass) prior to starting to get a basis for comparison, with the bass set to full on, and the treble set to two clicks to the right of center on the screen: I installed the sub first, then powered it up to test with the stock speakers. Mind you, I do not have a audio or decibel meter, so all of my measurements are by the skin of my ear/hand. The Polk feels like it is pushing less air than the stock when I held my hand up to it with the volume at the same level. However, the bass sounds a lot tighter and less "boomy"...kinda like the difference between having a 10" and a 15". This is with the volume turned up to the first large tic on the screen. I turned the volume up to half, and there was no distortion from the sub. I then installed the new door speakers. There was no clearance issue with the tweeters, and I left the plastic rings taped to the speakers for added security. The holes seemed a little off, but I got them lined up bu installing all 4 screws and then tightening each a little at a time. I taped the harness adapter to the inside of the door panel to keep it out of the way of the window. I had no issues with window clearance at all. Kudos to Ford for having sound dampening already installed in the door panel! I also liked that each speaker, including the sub, had it's own enclosure. After installing all the speakers, I can definitely notice a difference in the sound. The highs are crisper, and the mids seem more robust; in contrast, the stock speakers sounded flatter all across the spectrum. My only complaint would be the lack of adjustment for the level of the sub, and a more robust EQ adjustment in the stock head unit in place of just bass and treble...but that could only be achieved with a separate EQ or amp for the sub, or a new head unit, and it is a small complaint. The stock amp will definitely push a replacement sub fairly well, so long as you are looking for a bass enhancement integrated into the overall sound. If you want to rattle the windows and have the whole neighborhood hear you beatin' up the street, you need a bigger amp.

You have component speakers in the front doors, meaning that the woofer is in the doors, and the tweeter is in the A-pillar. I do not know how the factory speakers work with the signal coming from the radio, but when you buy replacement component speakers the usually come with a crossover. The wire from the head unit (stereo) is run to the crossover, and then separate wiring is run from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter.

I got the sub and door speakers. I am going to run them off the factory amp to begin with...see how it sounds. If I need to I can pick up a small amp to push the sub.

Well, I went and pulled the trigger on the door speakers and the sub...told the wife it was my V-Day present from her, lol! I will let you know once I install it.

I got the same thing. I have to go to the dealer later this month to get my tags, I will ask when I go.

I had the "brow tint" done when I had the front windows done. Total cost was $65.

I had no idea that the factory sub was dual VC. For door speakers, I am looking at the db571..on sale buy one get one half off. I can run a separate amplifier for the sub...I have done it before, but I don't want to.

Why not go with the db840? Single voice coil, which should require less power, I think.

You could run an additional power wire from your switch to one of the 12v power wires in the harness.

I would love to do that in mine! Please do a write-up!