TheWizard

I've found that the search function on here is spotty at best. You can get better search results using Google and specifying the site like this: thermostat site:fordedgeforum.com I just happened to remember posting the parts diagram.

Maybe this helps? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22703-thermostat-2016-edge-sport/?p=174377 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22703-thermostat-2016-edge-sport/?p=174403

The biggest mod needed in that scenario might be between the steering wheel and the seat. I thought I was a decent driver until I took one of those track classes - they are great fun and very enlightening... I highly recommend them. They'd be especially entertaining in a GT40.

5) You will likely find that the Ecoboost will hold its own with towing. Yes, the torque is higher for the V6 but that's peak torque... the Ecoboost produces its torque much lower in the rev range and maintains a flatter torque curve that should help compensate for the peak difference. 8) What's wrong with a Mustang for a fun car? You can get an S195 model (05-14) for $6K - $16K. The S2000 has to run almost at red line all the time to get any kind of performance out of it and the older Miatas were just plain anemic until the MZR engine came along in the 3rd generation.

Try CARiD... they have a couple of aftermarket headlight types for 2007 Edge. From personal experience I recommend the black rather than the smoke - both have blacked out backgrounds for looks but the smoke lenses unnecessarily reduce light output. Also, you'll want to change the included H11 bulbs for H9.

RBDS is the American superset of the more generic RDS system. The RBDS standard encompasses the features of RDS and adds some extra things (e.g. provisions for the emergency broadcast system and use on the AM band) along with some differences in encoding such as some different PTY (program type) classifications.

It seems that vinyl is making a comeback. Maybe Ford will reintroduce the record player they had in Lincolns in the 60s.

I can feel your pain with ripping music to an Apple device. I won an iPod several years ago and thought it would be great for portable music. I've been in IT since before the PC was invented so I have some experience with file management but I got so frustrated with trying to transfer my music to the iPod that I quickly tossed it into the trash. Ripping to a flash drive is a much simpler process - the initial rip process is all that is involved. There's no extra step of using iTunes or any other software, accounts or subscriptions. Each track becomes an MP3 file and you simply copy them wherever you need them just as you would with any other file. You might want to try that to see if it improves your opinion of using flash drives. However, having to wait to record a CD you pick up while traveling is a non-sequitur - you just bought the CD so you can play it in the car whether you have a jukebox or not. BTW, I'm sure you won't care but leaving that music on the jukebox when you sell the vehicle is a violation of copyright law unless you also give them the original CDs.

Nothing personal but I'm afraid I have to disagree with you about jukebox vs USB. I too have used both (I have the jukebox in my Mustang). I used it once or twice and haven't bothered with it since then because a USB flash drive is so much more flexible and convenient. There are some major shortcomings with the jukebox: - it can only handle CDs, not music downloaded from an online music store. - it can only handle commercial music CDs that are in its Gracenote database (i.e. no MP3 or "mix" CDs someone may make or even some of the more obscure music CDs) - it is not portable - it's expensive because it only comes with a high-end optional system The complaint that USB requires a separate device is unimportant... flash drives are so inexpensive these days that you can get small ones for free as promotional advertising items and you can get 32GB flash drives (three times the jukebox capacity) for under $10. I'd be willing to bet that you already have a few around the house. Besides, the jukebox requires separate devices - physical CDs. Inconvenient? More inconvenient than having to go to the store to buy physical CDs rather than just buying music online? Not to mention buying an entire album even if you really only want one or two tracks. Software is available for free to rip your existing CDs and create playlists on a flash drive. Windows XP and newer have that capability built in without even having to download a program. And MP3 files have all the metadata tags (artist, title, genre, etc.) included in the file so the Gracenote database isn't necessary. You put your music on a flash drive, plug it into your car and you leave it there until you want to add more music. You can then play by track, genre, artist, album, playlist, or even folder via the touch screen or voice commands. And when you want to have your music in a rental car on vacation, you simply take your flash drive with you... can't do that with the jukebox. Better value? You had to buy the navigation system to get the jukebox. That's a pretty steep upcharge compared to a $10 flash drive. More flexible? I may be missing something but I really don't see how. Aside from all that, it's just the way the market is going. You can't get cassette tape players in cars anymore. 8-tracks, AM stereo and even CD changers have gone the way of the dodo bird. These days, many aftermarket head units don't include CD players at all because music players, flash drives and online streaming are the way people have their music now. It probably won't be long before OEM systems follow suit and eliminate the CD player as well.

Yes, they include detailed instructions for interior trim panels. For example, the PDF manual I got for my Mustang includes the following instructions for the A pillar trim:

Ah yes, I agree that lighted foot wells for getting in and out are a good thing. But that's "courtesy lights" - the lights that go on and off with the doors (dome light, etc.). "Ambient lighting" is on while driving and that's the one I've never really understood. As I mentioned, I like the cup holder lights but prefer the way they are in my Mustang - there's a door over the cup holders so that when they aren't in use the lights aren't visible, leaving the interior mostly dark except for the dash lights (which I also keep dimmed as low as possible while still being able to see the instruments).

Can someone explain to me why ambient lighting gets so much attention? I can appreciate lighted cup holders but they don't need to be very bright - just enough to see where they are so that drinks don't get spilled. But one of the first things I did with my Edge was put electrical tape over the foot well lights. I don't need to look at my feet and the overall brightness is distracting when driving on dark roads away from city lights.

Yup, that's why the one with removable arms would be preferable. The black tow hooks at the corners don't look nearly as bad as those arms sticking out.

I've had a clear bra on my last few vehicles and found that they work really well. Get someone who specializes in their installation so you don't get wrinkles and gaps - I made the mistake of having a window tint shop do one of my cars and had to get it reinstalled.

HID bulbs don't burn out like an incandescent or halogen bulb. Instead they start shifting color toward the blue/ultraviolet end of the spectrum until they eventually provide no useful light. You'll want to replace them long before they get that bad unless you enjoy driving around looking like a ricer with purple headlights. Typical lifespan is about 3,000 hours (around 90K - 100K miles for an average driver) but there are factors which can shorten that considerably. The biggest one is frequent on/off cycles. HIDs last longest if they are turned on and left on for some time rather than short cycles. For example, going out at night and stopping at several stores and turning of the vehicle at each stop will shorten the life of the bulbs. That's why you don't see cars with HID high beams where the high beams are separate lamps - the short on/off cycling of the high beams in that design would be detrimental to the bulbs (doesn't apply to high/low projectors where the bulb is always lit and the high beam is produced by a moving shutter in the projector). 5000K will give you white light without the blue tint if you can't find a 4300K replacement at a reasonable price.

Blue Ox makes a tow bar mount that is designed for towing the Edge behind a motor home but also includes tow hooks on a model that has removable tow bar arms. Unfortunately it costs about $500 and requires fairly extensive installation work. https://www.etrailer.com/Base-Plates/Ford/Edge/2016/BX2667.html?vehicleid=201652434

Fiat claimed in their TV ad that those same little blue capsules will make their 500 model grow bigger.

No need to worry about warranty issues. Warranty repairs can't be denied unless they determine that the cause of the problem was the replacement part you installed so replacing the bulb would only be an issue if something happened to the headlight or its wiring. There's a good chance that wouldn't be covered anyway as the Ford CPO warranty only covers electrical for the first 12 months / 12,000 miles - the rest is powertrain coverage. Besides, the difference between the 55W H11 and the 65W H9 is only 0.7 amps (4.3 amps for 55W at rated 12.8 volts and 5.0 amps for 65W). That is a very safe margin for the circuits which are protected by 10 amp fuses on each side. There is a difference in heat produced but it is not enough to cause damage. The H9 sockets would get warm enough to be uncomfortable to hold but not burning hot (don't ever touch the glass of the bulb - even when cold). I've run H9 bulbs in the H11 fog lights of my Mustang for over seven years now and there is no damage to the sockets or lamps. So when your new bulbs burn out in a couple of years, you should consider using H9 although by that time there may be even better alternatives... development of LED replacements is continually coming up with better designs.

Another option might be to readjust your mirrors. It is quite common for people to adjust the mirror much too far inward so that they see the side of their vehicle. This doesn't cover the blind spots. With a properly adjusted mirrors, you should have to lean toward the side of the car to see the side of the vehicle in the mirror. In other words, the mirror should be adjusted outward enough that the side of the vehicle is out of range while in your normal seating position. The idea is to have a seamless transition between the coverage of your inside mirror and the two outside mirrors. https://www.caranddriver.com/features/how-to-adjust-your-mirrors-to-avoid-blind-spots

:hysterical: Was that a Veyron or Chiron? Was he awake?

A standard H11 halogen bulb produces about 1350 lumens. A Philips Extreme Vision H11 produces 1650 lumens. A standard H9 bulb produces 2100 lumens. The H9 produces 50% more light than a standard H11 and 25% more than the Philips H11 yet costs under $10.

The listing at Diode Dynamics has the wrong bulb type listed for your vehicle. It should be H11 for low beam and 9005 for high beam. The box in the wiring is called the "driver" which is electronics which perform a function similar to that of the ballast used in HID installations. They may be able to fit inside the lamp housing behind the dust cap if there is enough space but the 9006 connector wouldn't match the factory harness. If you are looking for improved lighting performance rather than just appearance (i.e. whiter/bluer light) then your best option is to replace the H11 low beam bulbs with H9 (they fit exactly the same except for needing removal of a small tab on the wiring connector and they produce 50% more light) and leave the high beams alone.

Sorry... I was curious to see how many people would get the connection. I'll mark you down as one who did.

Too soon?

How about a Nicole Brown Simpson (or Ron Goldman) PEZ dispenser?