TheWizard

The NHTSA complaints area are for safety related problems not maintenance and/or repair issues. Even with a valid complaint, the NHTSA won't do anything about it unless it's clearly a safety issue such as unintended acceleration, brake failure, fire hazard, etc. An expensive repair complaint won't even move the needle for them. Now if you had said that your engine seized up on the highway causing sudden deceleration that could have led to a rear-end collision or loss of control then they might have considered it. But I haven't heard of that happening with the water pump issue. It doesn't hurt to post complaints there so others can see - just don't expect them to do anything about it.

The Ford specs document says 2016 Edge width is 85.8" with mirrors extended and 78.4" with mirrors folded. The PDF file is available here: https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North%20America/US/2016/05/23/2016-Ford-Edge-Tech-Specs.pdf.

It would appear that all the similar complaints I found online are from people who didn't read the owner's manual. I have an excuse - I don't own one so I don't have a manual. So I downloaded the manual as a PDF from Ford and found that lildisco, akirby, and inigma-2 are correct (not that I would ever doubt them ) and the autolocking and unlocking can be configured through the menu in the instrument cluster.

I had assumed that it would be a user configurable option in the dash like it is in previous models but I did some searching just to be sure. Now it appears that there is no user changeable option to disable autolocks on the 2018 (maybe the 2017 as well). From what I could find, the dealer can do this for you (for a price of course) which means you might also be able to do it yourself using the Forscan software. Perhaps someone with more familiarity with that program would know the codes to change. I sympathize with your desire to disable them. It makes you wonder what the manufacturers are thinking... they stick you with something silly like autolocks yet they don't make automatic headlights standard. I pass an idiot on the road without lights just about every night. Although I must give Ford kudos for making the headlights come on with the wipers as is required in the majority of the states.

Yes, it is true that California vehicles are often tuned by the manufacturer to meet stricter emissions standards and therefore may not have the same performance as the 49-state versions. However, summer gas actually produces more performance than winter blends. This is because summer gas must meet lower RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) limits so that the raw gas doesn't evaporate into the atmosphere so easily. That means removing butane from the winter blend because it evaporates so easily. Butane is cheap and plentiful so winter gas is less expensive. But it is also less energy dense than gasoline (butane has only about 3/4 the energy density of gasoline) so overall, winter blend gas has just under 2% less energy than summer blend and thus produces less mileage and performance than summer blend (although 2% is not a huge difference). There is no such thing as a performance chip for modern engines. That was a term left over from years ago when tuners used to physically replace a logic chip in the engine controller with one that changed various parameters to produce more performance. These days engine computers are very complicated devices that can't be modified in that way. Any "performance chips" you may have seen for late model cars are pure scams that consist of nothing more than a resistor disguised as a logic chip. These "chips" do nothing positive and can lead to serious engine damage... don't ever buy one. BTW, for your motorcycle, try using marine gas (pure gasoline with no ethanol). It is available at many gas stations and almost all marinas. The lack of ethanol improves performance (enough to actually feel the difference rather than just measure it) and it stores better over time when not in use (ethanol blends will separate into useless muck fairly quickly) and it's less corrosive for your fuel system components.

There are tunes available for NA V6 models but I haven't tried any of them. You're not going to get much of a performance boost without running higher octane fuel because there's not much power to be had without advancing the ignition timing (which would cause knock without more octane). That may not be something you want with the current rising fuel prices and desire for fuel economy (higher octane won't affect mileage but it will cost more which kinda defeats the purpose). One advantage you can gain with a tune without other changes is automatic transmission shifting improvements. Tunes can set the transmission to shift at higher RPM and more firmly.

You can get a USB SD card reader on Amazon for about $10 or at Best Buy for about $5 more. It's probably worth that if it could save buying an expensive replacement card from Ford.

My comment was related to links to Sonic Electronics that had been posted elsewhere in the thread rather than about your specific situation. I wanted to let readers know that using them for information is cool but actually buying from Sonic is not a good idea.

I've never tried it... it's my wife's vehicle and not worth the life sentence that would generate. BTW, I also found that the appropriate profanity (as in "f-o") is the same as cancel. It happened when I was getting very frustrated trying to get it to respond to voice commands. Sometimes it seems like I can say "call home" and it will respond "deploying airbags".

Here in the "colonies", the original tires are under warranty - just not from Ford. The tire manufacturer provides a warranty similar to what you get when you buy replacement tires. That would be a prorated replacement rather than a free replacement so you should consider whether you want to go with the same brand/model of tire or if switching to something different might be worth the cost.

Not well documented but if you say "I need gas" the nav system will list nearby gas stations (I don't know if "petrol" works). Similarly, "I'm hungry" will list restaurants, "I'm thirsty" will list coffee shops, "I'm hurt" will list hospitals, but "I'm bleeding" will list police stations.

I'm curious... you wouldn't be talking about insurance would you? I find it very annoying that I can save money every year if I switch insurance companies because they always offer a better price to customers who switch than to loyal customers who renew. I wouldn't even mind if the renewal was a reasonable increase but they seem to want to catch up the profits they lost in enticing me to switch. I guess they see many customers just don't bother shopping around every time so they can get away with large premium increases that have nothing to do with driving record or any factors other than profit. I haven't tried it but would it be worth shopping around then asking my current insurer to quote based on competitor rates (rather than just switching to one of the competitors)?

Buying stereo equipment from Sonic Electronics may not be a good idea. They are a "grey market" dealer not authorized by the manufacturers and as such provide no factory warranty on those items. In fact, both Pioneer and Kenwood specifically disclaim warranty coverage on their websites for any items purchased from Sonic. So buy from them at your own risk.

128GB seems to be the "sweet spot" in 1.8" SSDs these days - the point where everything smaller is not much cheaper but the next size up is considerably more expensive. That sweet spot in 2.5" SSDs is currently 256GB (anything smaller is within $20 but a 500GB is twice the price). These spots go up as prices come down so it could change depending on when you plan to buy. The most economical decision is to buy at the sweet spot because you get the most capacity for the least money. I would say calculate how much space you use now and add maybe 50% for growth then see what size comes closest to your needs. There's no point buying more than you'll ever use (that's different for a computer drive because the added space increases longevity due to being able to move data to unused areas but your iPod will see mostly read-only use).

I'd be very careful about installing lower impedance speakers. The amp may not be 2-ohm stable and may not handle the added current and heat very well... especially since it sounds likely that the OP will be pushing the limits trying to get more volume. I don't know the impedance specs of the factory amp but you could end up letting all the smoke out of the factory system. Once you let all the smoke out of electronic devices, they don't work anymore. Besides, cutting the impedance in half doubles the power (and current flow) but only generates 3dB of increased volume - the equivalent of about one click of the volume knob. That's because perceived volume is a logarithmic scale. It takes ten times as much power to double the volume (e.g. you'd have to go from 100W to 1,000W output). Replacing the speakers with better quality and adding an amp (speaker level input is a great convenience) is a good start but be aware that you are unlikely to be able to build a really loud (85dB or more) system without significant cost and work. And remember that exposure to sound at that level for long periods will cause hearing loss. Exposure to sound at 100dB for just 15 minutes will cause some permanent hearing loss.

Sorry... you're wrong. Being a moderator (I am a moderator on a couple of other forums) doesn't mean you can't express an opinion. Moderators are people who are active in the community and agree to take on the added responsibility of monitoring the forums (for free). Besides, nothing he said was a dig at you, just comments on how he treats similar situations. Your are free to do the same thing or do your own thing. Perhaps starting with getting a thicker skin. I applaud akirby for the even handed way he has handled the situations that have needed it and he is a knowledgeable member of this community. We don't always agree but that's part of the purpose of a forum. If everyone agreed on everything it would get awfully boring in here.

You are quite right... HIDs in halogen projectors generally don't cause a problem because it's the front lens and elliptical reflector at the back of the projector that produce the beam while a movable shield cuts out the upper region light for low beams. Those elements aren't as dependent on the exact positioning of the light source like an older reflector style lamp so there is no perceptible change in beam pattern. Granted, the halogen beam cutoff is often a different shape than an HID one due to different edge cuts on the movable shield but what you end up with is the same pattern as the original halogen (which was always acceptable) only much brighter.

I added a note to the original post to see your post about the o-ring.

Sorry... double post

This may seem like a silly question... why would you buy wheels and THEN ask whether they fit?

Here in Jacksonville, the sheriff's office just competed a conversion of their fleet from Impala to Taurus and is about to add 50-70 more. Florida Highway Patrol has been switching to Explorers but many local departments are still using sedans. I'm not privy to their reasoning but it's quite possible that they could go back to GM (or Dodge Chargers) in the next round of ordering if there is no sedan option from Ford.

With few exceptions, they're not losing money on sedans. They're just not making enough of a margin on them. They want to improve their profit margin to 8% (currently between 5% and 6%). That may or may not improve their total profit depending on how the market reacts. I think there may be a bunch of intangibles that may not go the way they expect. For example, their rental car and police fleet market will largely disappear. But the biggest thing that they may regret is that car buying customers who are forced to go to other makers may also buy their SUVs and trucks from other makers. The true blue Ford customer who now has to go to someone like Nissan for a sedan may decide that the Titan is a pretty good truck as well or that they like the Pathfinder better than the Explorer... something they might never have considered previously. There will be a reduction in US production as Focus and Taurus are built here now. Some of that may be converted to SUV or truck production but that would only be if the demand goes up. They aren't currently suffering from a supply shortage.

I thought I had lost four years of my life when I saw them mention "the sporty Mustang, which debuted 50 years ago this month," since it actually debuted in April of 1964 - 54 years ago. Darn! I wouldn't mind being four years younger, although I'm not sure I'd want to go through those last four years again.

Yes, you are correct. Running bulbs with more current makes them run hotter which skews the color away from the blue end of the spectrum. But, as you said, the tradeoff is that running hotter shortens their life (sometimes by as much as half) and the added heat can be a problem for the lamp housing as well. With the cost of HID bulbs being quite reasonable, it would be better to just change out the bulbs with ones that have the color you want rather than overdrive the bulbs you have to modify the color. 5000K bulbs should have essentially no blue tint when viewed straight on but like all HIDs will have a color shift toward blue/violet when viewed off-axis. Even OEM 4300K HIDs will look somewhat blue when seen from an angle... it's a side effect of the design. It's an easy way to differentiate between HIDs and tinted halogen bulbs - the halogen bulbs will be the same color regardless of angle.

Standard halogen bulbs produce light around 3200K while some of the "enhanced" halogen bulbs may go as high as 4300K (e.g. Philips WhiteVision). 4300K is slightly yellow but still much whiter than typical halogen. 4300K is the standard color of factory HID headlights and is generally considered the most effective color for vision. Once you start going above 4300K, the lights will often appear brighter because the human eye doesn't see blue tint as well as other colors so it is interpreted as glare. 5000K is generally considered pure white while 6000K is "ice" or "crystal" white (a slight blue tint). The loss of effective lighting with either of those is measurable but not significant. 8000K is pale blue with a noticeable loss of effectiveness. Anything above 8000K is for show only because the loss of effective lighting is huge. 10000K is really blue and 12000K is violet.