chipworkz

I would bet that they are going to replace the Roof Opening Panel Motor Assembly. As I pointed out, for the roof to open the key normally needs to be in the ACC or Run position. The switches just provide a ground signal for which operation you are doing. The BCM is what provides the additional power feed to this assembly when the key is on. Assuming the BCM isn't providing the assembly power when the key is off and further assuming there isn't a short providing a ground for the Tilt function, the only way the motor can be getting power is from the Hot at all times feed from fuse #8. So I am guessing that power is being feed from the Hot at all times feed and activating the motor occasionally as you are seeing. Something like water intrusion and or corrosion build up or something like that maybe. Two things need to happen for the roof to open, power supplied to the Roof Opening Panel Motor Assembly and a ground signal to the assembly for the tilt function. So a short in the switches wouldn't do anything without the power source. Key off should not be providing power. Power to the assembly but no ground signal to activate the tilt also doesn't do anything. So the common part is the Roof Opening Panel Motor Assembly having an internal issue. Now time will tell if my thinking is right here.

I wasn't meaning that the fuse was the issue, just providing a way to hopefully keeping it from opening if your expecting rain as an example. Please be sure to tell us what the dealership finds. This will be interesting.

This isn't a normal feature but are you planning on trying to fix this yourself? Do you have any electrical background or plan on pulling things apart yourself? If you need to keep this from happening like if it is going to be raining, try removing fuse F8 from your Battery Junction box. I believe this will disable the roof from opening. FYI, the switches provide a ground signal to the Roof Opening Panel Motor Assembly. Normally the key needs to be in the ACC or Run position for the roof to function. The fuse F8 provides a Hot at all times feed to this assembly so the issue may be within this assembly itself.

Just a quick update, I haven't had a single issue since I replaced my battery. The original was either bad or just could'nt handle how I use the car most of the time. Mostly just short 3 mile round trips to my kids school once or twice a day. The original battery has been setting there since I replaced it and it is still holding a change so it wasn't a bad cell or anything that was killing it.

As I said, my car came with the larger battery tray which I would guess they all do so for me, it is a no brainier to put the larger battery in. If your only using the vehicle as a commuter car and all you do is drive it every day for a good distance and do nothing else with it, then you probably would not see any difference between the two. If the car sets a lot then the battery drain could end up being an issue with the smaller battery. Of course it still could with the larger battery but you have more reserve and can go longer with the larger battery. Another example of the benefit of the larger battery is if you do anything like camping or something where you have the doors open for long periods of time with the lights on or playing the radio when the vehicle is off and so on. Here is a post I did when my battery seemed to die overnight. The green indicator was still on and everything so as some suggest, replacing the battery was the answer. I haven't had a single issue since. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15548-2012-dead-battery-procedure/?do=findComment&comment=118305

Take a look at post #4 in this thread. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/4005-drls-daytime-running-lights/

Yes I replace mine with a 65 and would never use the 59 if it needs to be replaced. The battery tray is the same size so I see no reason to use a smaller batter except to save cost. I have the EcoBoost though so as long as there is room with the 3.5, go for it. Why would you not want to have the extra capacity?

So you are saying that your headlights currently are on for the DRL function? If so then see this post. Also it is strange since people say that only Canada and California have the DRL function turned on. California doesn't by the way. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17115-daylight-running-lights-can-be-turned-on/

Is this regarding your Fusion or an Edge / MKX?

I bought a factory sub, not aftermarket. I will use the LC7i ix Channel Line Output Converter to connect the factory radio to my amps. http://www.audiocontrol.com/17612/OEM-Integration.html

To partially answer your question, the stock system is OK once you replace the factory door speakers. There are only 4 speakers, one in each door but the front doors are two way so that is why they say 6 speakers. I replaced mine with the Infinity speakers and it does sound much better. I bought a factory sub off Ebay to install but haven't done it yet. If you could find a like for like Limited for 1K to 2K more, you would be better off doing that than upgrading the SEL system. But in my case, the SEL I found was way better than a Limited I could find so I went with the SEL. The new Infinity's do very well with the base so that is why I haven't been in a big rush to install the sub. It is all a matter of taste and expectations though. Here are some comparison shots of the stock vs Infinity speakers. These are the stock front speakers. The rear speakers are the exact same very cheap speakers that were in my 1999 F350 truck!

I have seen more than one person group California in with Canada about having DRL's but I don't think that is the case. Not sure who started this but I specifically looked today while I was out and about. Out of all the Edges's and Explorers that I saw, not one had DRL's. I did a quick search and here is what I found. Taken from the California Highway Patrol website. It says they are legal but not that you HAVE to have them. "*DRIVING WITH JUST PARKING LIGHTS ON: (24800 VC). Vehicles that have factory-installed automatic daytime running lights must meet federal requirements and are legal." So it looks like someone got the Motorcycle requirements mixed up as it being ALL vehicles. Only Motorcycles are required to have DRL's. "Are motorcycles required to have DRLs? Federal law does not require motorcycles to have DRLs, although all manufacturers voluntarily equip their cycles with such lights. Some states including California require the lights, and 22 states require motorcyclists to ride with their headlights on at all hours." "States can create their own daytime running light laws for motorcycles. As of 2010, federal law does not require motorcycle riders to use daytime running lights. However, states do have the ability to create their own laws regarding their use. For example, California requires all motorcycles built after 1977 to be equipped with daytime running lights." On a side not, something I found along with this is that it is legal to have white front turn signals. " INCORRECT COLOR OF TURN SIGNAL: It must be white or yellow to the front, red or yellow to the rear (24953 VC)."

Go to HID Planet and there are lots of people who say that you don't want to do it even with Projector housings. They are shaped different and so on and so on. I am not an expert and I am not saying there aren't any differences, my goal here was just to show the side by side and how close the two bulbs in our application are to each other. As far as the return wire, I could have sworn that it is on the bottom but I will double check, I did notice the shadow as well.

Edit: This relates to projector housing vehicles only just to be clear. So after I ordered my HID kit from Drive Bright, I started reading all about why you should never use HID bulbs in a Halogen application. They were talking about the alignment of the filament being wrong along with the position of the filament being in a different spot so the Halogen projectors will not work for an HID bulb. I read lots of controversy about this but I never saw an actual comparison in our application. There were lots of people here who said that they work great but no explanation of why they seem to work fine in our cars. Well I just installed my HID kit tonight and took some pictures. As the pictures show, the light is being produce in virtually the exact same spot. Yes there are still differences in how the light is being produced, the shape of it and so on but with it being centered in almost the exact same spot, our projectors do very well with the HID bulb. Side by side of stock HIR2 bulb and 9006 HID bulb Depth from base to approximate center of filament of the HIR2 bulb Depth of hot spot on 9006 HID bulb. Caliper was not adjusted so this shows it compared to the HIR2 bulb. View of color differences between the stock bulb and the 6000K bulb. Close up of 6000K 9006 HID color. Close up of HIR2 stock bulb color. Street view of stock HIR2 bulbs. Street view of 6000K 9006 HID bulbs. I am not crazy about the 6000K color and will be changing the bulbs out to 5000K. The distance is about the same which it should be with the shutter system in our lights. You can see a little bit wider with the HID bulbs though as you can see in the upper left corner of the picture when you compare the two. These were taken a couple nights apart and I am not setting in 100% exactly the same spot so take it for what it is worth. I am looking forward to seeing what the 5000K bulbs will look like since with these 6000K bulbs, I am not seeing a huge difference in the output besides the color. I hope this helps explain why the HID bulbs work so well in our cars though!

Happy New year, I hope things go better for you this year. Rear Bumper Cover Removal.pdf Rear Bumper Removal.pdf

So in the various DRL threads, I have seen it mentioned several times that the DRL function is turned on for Canada and California cars. I live in California and my car was first bought and sold here as well as having the CA designation under the hood. I don't have the DRL function turned on though so what about you other California guys out there, does your car have the DRL function turned on? I can't say that I can remember any Edges that I have seen around here with them on.

I am not sure if I want to get rid of mine yet or not but even if someone did, have you checked to see if your car has the wiring for the lights already in place? I am not sure if they use the same wire harness on the SE or not so you will need to see if they are tied up in the area. If you don't already have the wiring, then you will also need to locate a connector pig tail for each light since you won't be getting this from someone that has replaced them. If you buy Dan's DRL lights for example, the factory wiring isn't used so you don't need to worry about the factory wiring on an SE like yours. If you didn't want to spend the $200 (On sale right now) and you don't have the factory wiring in place, your best bet is to go to a junk yard and find them there. That way you can get the wiring with them and splice it into you running lights. You can buy the lights new for $68 and change here but at that point, I would go with Dan's DRL's and you get a lot more for just a few bucks more. http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/auto-parts/2012/ford/edge/sel-trim/2-0l-l4-gas-engine/electrical-cat/park-lamps-scat Here is the wire diagram if anyone wants to go this route.

I just put my DRL's in this afternoon and they are definitely towards the 6000K range. They match my switchback bulbs really well when looking at them straight on. From inside the car, the DRL's are a bit bluer though. My personal preference would be for them to not be as blue as they are. As far as the install of the DRL's go, it wasn't bad. I chose not to have them dim with the headlights on since they are not that bright to need to. My switchback bulbs are a bit brighter and I have never had an issue with those being on at night. Since I have the load resistors near the fuse box for my switchback bulbs, I was able to tie in to the turn signals there at the fuse box instead of down near the bulbs. As far as the connection at the fuse box, Dan says to use fuse 90, 91 or 92. F90 = Powertrain Control Module (PCM), / Transmission Control Module (TCM) F91 = Cruise-Control Module (C-CM) - 3.5L/3.7L TIVCT or Temperature control valve, transmission fluid warmer - 2.0L GTDI F92 = Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) module I didn't want to mess with any of those so I used fuse position 89. In my case this is an empty spot so I am still using the tap but it is not sharing with any other circuit. It also works out perfectly to be able to tuck the wire down into crevices of the fuse box. Take a look when you go to do yours and you will see what I am talking about. I may take some pictures tomorrow as well. FYI F89 = Headlamp, left - with adaptive headlamps They are much brighter than the factory units and since you are playing with 10000K and 12000K lights you probably won't think they are to blue. I am a bit disappointed myself in the color and wish they were more around the 5000K range. The integrated turn signal is really nice and reacts slightly faster than my switchback bulbs do. Ok I went and took a few pictures real quick. Like most pictures people post of lights, they aren't accurate completely to what they look like in person. The light is actually more blue in person that what these picture show. DRL's only, they create the weird vertical shadows you see. DRL's and Switchbacks. Notice the Switchbacks wash out the shadows some. With stock headlights on as well. Now you can see the blue glow around the the garage door more accurately. DRL's and Switchbacks. With stock headlights. View out the front. Notice the slight blue glow outside the headlight beams.

I had a wire tap connected to my High beam light wire under the dash when I bought mine. Not sure what it was for but the wire was about 6 inches long and had been cut. No signs of anything being added or mounted to the car so it was strange.

As far as Dan's DRL's, I ordered the combo kit of the DRL's and HID lights. They sent me 6000K HID's which I am not thrilled with. I wanted 5000K but I guess when you buy the combo, they just send the 6000K's. From what I read, the original versions were closer to 5000K and the new version is closer to 6000K so it makes sense seeing they sent me 6000K HID's.

geno22c, this was an old thread and I don't know what year Edge you have but for the 2011+ the fuse is F12, not F9. It is also a 15A fuse.

I too have a 2012 EcoBoost but have only had it for a little over 4 months. It only has 14K miles on it so it is still pretty new in that regard. I have been really happy with mine so far as well. The only issues I have are minor. The rattle noise from the passenger side, back seat I believe that many people have reported. I have the tailgate that pops back open every so often which I read there is a TSB out for that. I also have the occasional hard shift into 2nd gear which again there is a TSB out for. The EcoBoost gets pretty good gas millage on the highway. I get an average of 25-26 MPG combined and from what I have seen on pure highway with no traffic driving, that would be up in the 28-30 range. So what happened with your Vista Roof that everything had to be replaced?

I got my set on Christmas Eve! Only thing I am not sure on though is the 6000K bulbs they sent. I guess the DRL HID combo kit comes as 6000K bulbs. Most of what I have read says the 6000K bulbs are too blue for most peoples liking.

Waiting on my email to confirm my details as well. Looking forward to get my Birthday present on it's way!

Here is a post I did about replacing the battery. It has been working great since I replaced it. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15548-2012-dead-battery-procedure/