ylwpaul

I can confirm this location. I just accessed the receiver on my 2011 Edge. It’s located in the rear quarter panel on the inside of the panel.

Hello Diagnostic Dad, I have a 2011 Edge that has been displaying the same behaviour as what you’ve written about. I get a parasitic draw of 2.2A every 90secs for about 10-15secs. At first I disconnected the instrument cluster because I heard a relay or something making a sound, a tick when the draw started and then a double click sort of noise when the draw ended. But I think that was just a symptom. I also disconnected the APIM and noted that the 2.2A draw dropped to around 450mA but again I think that was just a symptom. Now I believe that the RF module is waking up for some reason which in turn wakes up the instrument cluster and APIM. So the problem I think is the RF Module. I’m wondering where and how you installed your switch? Did you install your switch on the RF Module power supply? Thanks Update: I have now tracked the problem to the TPMS module which also monitors the keyless entry fobs. I still don’t know what is waking up the module, whether it’s an internal problem or still something external. I do know that if it is off then the car goes to sleep and the current draw drops to 16mA. I’ve put a switch on the supply voltage to the module so I can turn off the module when the car is going to be parked for more than a day. I will get a replacement module to see if the problem will stop. Stay tuned.

Any ideas out there for a parasitic draw on a 2011 Ford Edge? The draw is 2.2A every minute and a half or so. When the drain stops the quiescent draw is 16mA which seems reasonable. It looks like the BCM might be involved as the positive cable that feeds the BCM registers the 2.2A with a clamp current meter. Any ideas?

This cleared my issue as well. Deleting the zip file off of the USB drive enable a successful upgrade on my 2011 Ford Edge. Thanks davtay.

Has anyone had a problem with these DRL kits? I've had one side go very dim suddenly. The white LEDS are very dim but the amber strip functions just fine. I think the LEDs are probably fine but maybe the supply current has somehow failed. Anyone else seen something similar?

I have a Canadian 2011 Ford Edge SEL and have installed the kit. It works very well. I also have the HID kit installed from AbsoluteHID and they too work very well. I have not hooked up the LED dimming trigger wire yet because the headlights are the DRLs as well. So has anyone considered hooking the dimming wire into the automatic dimming circuit? I don't want to have the computer reprogrammed to run the signal lighting as DRLs. The ambient light sensor on the dashboard senses when it's time to dim the instrument cluster so there is a signal wire somewhere that could be used to dim the LEDs. I just need to find that wire. Thanks.

I was having the same door-ajar issue but mine was the front passenger door. I have come up with a pretty simple work-around that should last the life of the car. I was thinking about finding a push-button type switch that I could mount in the main door post but I knew that would involve drilling into the post, something I really didn't really want to do as it's pretty intrusive. But then I thought about using a magnetic switch instead. A magnetic switch is something easy to find. They are used in lot's of security alarm systems for monitring doors and windows. They are usually designed with pin-outs for both normally-open (N.O.) and normally-closed (N.C.). They have a a magnetically sensitive reed switch that moves open or closed when a magnet is close by. The Edge door-ajar switch is looking for a GND when the door closes. Placing another switch in parallel with the door-ajar switch is all you need to do. There are two wires that come from the switch inside the door on the door latch mechanism. For the passenger door the wire you want to find is the white 22 AWG wire in the bundle coming out of the door. you can get access to this bundle by removing the (door sill plate) the plastic trim covering the front pillar area of the door opening. This will allow you to see the wiring bundle where it enters the car from the door up next to the glove box. There are two white wires in the bundle, a 20 AWG and a 22AWG. Look for the thinner of the two. This is the wire you need to splice into. (At this point if you don't care about the interior lights coming on when you open the door and you just don't want to see the door-ajar warning any more you can simply add a simple normally-open switch with one side of the switch attached the the white wire and the other to a GND. Turn the switch and the door-ajar warning will go away as you've now grounded the sensing wire at the Body Control Module. I simply added the switch so the warning went away and I left it that way until I was ready to install the magnetic switch. When I was ready to add the magnetic switch I just paralleled the new switch across the switch I'd previously installed. I placed the magnetic switch inside the plastic trim just beside the top fastener clip. I afixed the switch with some decent double-sided tape. I reinstalled the trim. Then I then took a small but powerful neodymium magnet and moved it around the outside of the trim near the area where the switch was installed behind the trim until I could tell it was closing the switch. (I had a DVM across the switch at this point so I could see when the switch was closing) Once I was confident I had the right spot using some silicone adhesive I glued the small magnet to the plastic door trim directly across from the switch. Now when the door closes, the magnet is brought close enough to the magnetic switch that the door sensor receives a GND and the door-ajar warning is gone. It works perfectly and only cost a few bucks. If anyone is interested I will provide some pictures. BTW, for the driver's door the wire you'd be looking for in the the driver's door wiring would be the 22 AWG Green with a Violet stripe. I'll get some pictures and post them soon. The magnetic switch is readily available in most hardware stores. They look like this: http://www.amazon.co...h/dp/B0009SUF08 You'll only need to use the part with the connections as the other component contains the magnetic and I think you'll need a more powerful magnet like "B" or "C" on this page: http://www.leevalley...ge.aspx?p=32065 You want it to be large enough to close the switch but small enough not to be too noticeable. Here are a few pictures of the above project. The magnet is siliconed to the door panel. I've circled the area where the magnetic switch is mounted in behind the plastic trim panel. You can locate the white wire easily behind the panel and trace it along to where you can splice into it. There is also a nearby grounding point for the other side of the switch.

Here's a fairly inexpensive work around: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17687-any-work-around-for-door-ajar-issue/?p=128410 Using a magnetic switch in parallel with the door latch sensor switch and a magnet I no longer have any problem with the door ajar warning. It now works as it is supposed to.

Here are a few pictures of the above project. The magnet is siliconed to the door panel. I've circled the area where the magnetic switch is mounted in behind the plastic trim panel. You can locate the white wire easily behind the panel and trace it along to where you can splice into it. There is also a nearby grounding point for the other side of the switch.

I'll get some pictures and post them soon. The magnetic switch is readily available in most hardware stores. They look like this: http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08 You'll only need to use the part with the connections as the other component contains the magnetic and I think you'll need a more powerful magnet like "B" or "C" on this page: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32065 You want it to be large enough to close the switch but small enough not to be too noticeable.

I was having the same door-ajar issue but mine was the front passenger door. I have come up with a pretty simple work-around that should last the life of the car. I was thinking about finding a push-button type switch that I could mount in the main door post but I knew that would involve drilling into the post, something I really didn't really want to do as it's pretty intrusive. But then I thought about using a magnetic switch instead. A magnetic switch is something easy to find. They are used in lot's of security alarm systems for monitring doors and windows. They are usually designed with pin-outs for both normally-open (N.O.) and normally-closed (N.C.). They have a a magnetically sensitive reed switch that moves open or closed when a magnet is close by. The Edge door-ajar switch is looking for a GND when the door closes. Placing another switch in parallel with the door-ajar switch is all you need to do. There are two wires that come from the switch inside the door on the door latch mechanism. For the passenger door the wire you want to find is the white 22 AWG wire in the bundle coming out of the door. you can get access to this bundle by removing the (door sill plate) the plastic trim covering the front pillar area of the door opening. This will allow you to see the wiring bundle where it enters the car from the door up next to the glove box. There are two white wires in the bundle, a 20 AWG and a 22AWG. Look for the thinner of the two. This is the wire you need to splice into. (At this point if you don't care about the interior lights coming on when you open the door and you just don't want to see the door-ajar warning any more you can simply add a simple normally-open switch with one side of the switch attached the the white wire and the other to a GND. Turn the switch and the door-ajar warning will go away as you've now grounded the sensing wire at the Body Control Module. I simply added the switch so the warning went away and I left it that way until I was ready to install the magnetic switch. When I was ready to add the magnetic switch I just paralleled the new switch across the switch I'd previously installed. I placed the magnetic switch inside the plastic trim just beside the top fastener clip. I afixed the switch with some decent double-sided tape. I reinstalled the trim. Then I then took a small but powerful neodymium magnet and moved it around the outside of the trim near the area where the switch was installed behind the trim until I could tell it was closing the switch. (I had a DVM across the switch at this point so I could see when the switch was closing) Once I was confident I had the right spot using some silicone adhesive I glued the small magnet to the plastic door trim directly across from the switch. Now when the door closes, the magnet is brought close enough to the magnetic switch that the door sensor receives a GND and the door-ajar warning is gone. It works perfectly and only cost a few bucks. If anyone is interested I will provide some pictures. BTW, for the driver's door the wire you'd be looking for in the the driver's door wiring would be the 22 AWG Green with a Violet stripe.

Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the front left passenger door on a 2011 Edge? I'm trying to troubleshoot a faulty door ajar sensor and I'm considering wiring in a different switch. Just need to know where I can pick off the two wires from the sensor to wire in a parallel switch.

Hi, we just bought a 2011 Edge SEL but it doesn't have the camera. I'm hoping that if I purchase the OEM camera (BT4Z-19G490- that it will plug into existing wiring and work with the dash display center. Has anyone had any success doing this?