enigma-2

Purge valve will set CEL. Is the check engine light on?

Fuses control the PCM. I recently watched a video on YouTube where the mechanic tracked an identical problem to the connector in the tailgate, that connected to the rear wiper. It appeared that water leaked through the rear wiper seal (where the shift exits the tailgate body.) Water leaked through the deteriorated seal and dripped down onto the connector. (Think drip, drip, drip.) This caused green crusties (corrosion) to form between adjacent connections on the connector (on the outside, at the top of the connector.) This fed the 'wiper keep alive current' to an adjacent circuit, which backfed the leakage voltage back to the fuse panel in the engine compartment; which kept the PCM alive. (Took him several hours to track down.) He was getting just 3 volts (or something lower than battery voltage) in the backfeed; which didn't make any sense. He found that the crusties acted like a resistor, allowing a reduced amount of battery voltage to be applied to an adjacent wire in the connector, that should be dead when the car was off. I'd have a close look at the rear wiper seal. If it looks like there's a microscopic gap where the seal exits, I'd get suspicious and pop off the hatchback interior cover and look at the connector. Your car is the right age for a deteriorated wiper body seal. .!@##$ spellchecker...

Have you solved this yet? If not, I'd suggest taking a close look at the VVT solenoid that was replaced. It is most likely due an improper seal seat. And yes, a stuck PVC valve can cause a buildupnof pressure, forcing oil to leak at several places.

Old fluid is a known cause,, but you've already addressed that. (Change at 30k — 40k intervals.) At 68k you're past the 60k warranty. Have you checked for codes? P0741 is a code which often displays when this condition occurs. (Torque converter clutch solenoid performance). TSB 21-2389 addresses the problem of shuddering or jerking at speeds up to 35 mph. (Doesn't occur above 35 mph.) Is revises the software in the PCM. (Changes when the xmission shifts.) .

Had a similar squeeking sould on my MKX at the front if the instrument panel (next to the windshield. Pried the strip up slightly and sprayed silicone spray. Stopped it for several years. Back again after several years ... 🤬 Try prying out slightly and spray with silicone.

Looking this code up, reads that there's a malfunction in the All-Wheel Drive, PTU Actuator Motor. The internal motor that engages the AWD system has become physically stuck or has failed electronically. My guess is that there's a break (short to ground or open) in the harness leading to the PTU actuator. Could also be green crusties in the connector. Once fixed, I think you will need forescan to reset the system.

Late answer,, but if you're still having problems.... This often occurs after a battery change. (Touching the battery terminal with a battery lead in a tapping motion, can cause an electrical glitch.) Try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. This often clears temporary electrical faults and allows the module to reboot. If that doesn't work, try a manual recalibration. The procedure is in your owners manual.

So, whats wrong with Motorcraft? Don't like to smooth, comfy ride?

Bad or worn out transmission fluid can cause this problem, but as you stated,, you just had the fluid and filter changed and that eliminates that possibly. But there's also another possibility, and its a well known and well documented issue that's directly traceable to the vehicle's 8F35 transmission (and isn't fixed with transmission service.) Ford released a TSB for the 2019 model year (through 2021 or 2022 I believe) where the car jerks at low speeds in the first shift. (It doesn't do it after 35 mph). The fix is painless and simply involves reprogramming the software for the PCM. (It updates the transmission solenoid shift strategy, i believe.) Visit your local Ford Dealer and ask for a diagnostic scan, specifically checking for TSB updates & transmission solenoid strategy updates. While you're there, have them also check for a recall on your car (NHTSA 20V-550) which checks for loose bolts on the start/stop accumulator. If not fixed, it can cause fluid leaks and eventually transmission failure. Can't speculate on the cost, but they "may" be covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty (or an ESP).

Didn't the high discharge take a different harness? (Heavier gauge wire?)

Did it stall out while driving or cold start? Brings back memories of a shifter nit tripping the interlock system. (When you got in, may have jostled the shifter.)

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Back in the day, mechanics used to identify the source of the sound (especially wheel bearings) by putting a long screwdriver (I used one with a wood handle) on the outside of the bearing and ear to the top of the handle. Acts as a sound amplifier quickly isolates which (or if) bearing is failing. As the PTU has already been changed, I would also take a look at the driveshaft bearings and RDU. (Do they still put microphones on parts and drive around?)

Here's what AI says about the Ford Edge wandering, with 245 Nexen tires - Tire Dimensions (Tramlining): Wider tires, such as the 245mm size, combined with a lower aspect ratio (which wasn't specified but is common on newer vehicles), are more susceptible to tramlining. This is a normal characteristic where the tire follows grooves or ruts in the pavement, causing the vehicle to wander. Vehicle Alignment: Incorrect wheel alignment, especially in the rear suspension components which are common wear parts on the Ford Edge, is a major cause of wandering or pulling. A professional alignment check is often recommended. Tire Quality and Type: While some user reviews mention specific Nexen models can be slippery in the wet or have a firm ride, the brand itself isn't universally linked to wandering. The type of tire (e.g., an aggressive tread design) or a manufacturing defect/imbalance can contribute to handling issues. Tire Condition and Pressure: Uneven wear, improper inflation (either over or under), or tire imbalance can all lead to wandering. Suspension Components: Worn or damaged suspension parts like struts, control arm bushings, or tie rod ends can cause wandering as the vehicle loses stability.

For me, its that damn panic button. I've never used it on purpose, but have hit it accidentally, much to my chagrin. 👍on changing the trunk on two presses. I wish mine could be set to number of key presses. (At least it's wireless signal can't be intercepted and used to steal the car.) .

Feeling adventurous? These go in your side mirrors. $18 https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-amber-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-super-red-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights

$47 for either of the kits. https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/white-lens-sequential-blink-amber-led-side-mirror-lights-for-ford-edge-mk4-focus https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/smoke-lens-sequential-blink-amber-led-side-mirror-lights-for-ford-edge-mk4-focus

My PTU made a noise similar to this before they replaced it. Gets louder with speed. (Lack of lubrication.) .

Couldn't get the link to open. How about a local junk yard? If they're push pinned on, easy enough to pop off a wrecked car. .

After re-reading previous, on the standard hvac setups, the heat/cold is controlled by an actuator on one side or the other (forget which) and has a plastic rod that extends over to the other side to control that side. I've seen a report where the rod broke. (I think it controlled the passenger sidevand the rod simultaneously controlled the drivers side. Easiest way to check is to watch the heat/cool door on the drivers side and switch between heat & a/c. If the passenger door moves but the drivers doesn't, you found your problem. If both move, the core is partly clogged. On the duel systems, each side is controlled separately with separate actuators. There is a history of these actuators failing in the Ford line. Its possible that the core is clogged again. Rather uncommon however. Most common cause is by using different coolants. Mix the wrong types are they congel forming a thick goo, and block part of the heater core. Never read where a flush cleared it. Think it would be better to disconnect the heater hoses and do a power flush just on the heater core. I did this many years ago by connecting the harden hose to one side heater hose and opening the tap. (Back then, Prestone sold a kit, a tee, to tap into your heater hose with a garden hose threaded connection on the top of the tee. Designed to do a flush at each coolant change.) Anyway, it worked. (But I'm not advising. Heater cores are made cheaper today.) .

Lack of traction due to the low-friction surface. First thing I'd look at are the tires. (BTW, AWD or FWD)? If are all 4 tires same tread? Good tread? Any bald spots? Are all tires set at 35 psi? (Over pressure will cause wander, even on dry roads, but will magnify on snow.) Are these a good brand of tires? (Or did the dealer slap on a set of cheap junk to make it look like it had new tires?) (All tires perform worse on snow, but cheap tires tread design will perform really bad on snow.)

At this point I'd say you ruled out all other possibilities. I'll attach a copy of a Ford cooling system corrosion service bulletin. You may find it useful as to what additional parts to replace when doing a flush, etc. . 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

Flush won't harm a heater core unless its already compromised. Most of these problems are caused by an actuator. (Note in some cases the actuator is working but the shaft that runs between the two doors was broken. Even though the car didn't have a separate heating system, the passenger side was working but the shaft running over to the other side was broken.) Yours may be ok, but I'd verify that the actual doors are opening and closing properly before spending $3k. As the heater core was replaced in 2019, the only reason (that I'm aware of) that would cause a heater core to clog is by not changing coolant at 105k miles or by mixing different coolants without doing a complete flush. (I'm aware that the maintenance manual specifies 105k miles, but I change mine at 60k.)

Found this on the web. "The 2014 Ford Edge has an OEM camera system that uses a dedicated Local Interconnect Network (LIN) to communicate with the Body Control Module (BCM) and a shielded video signal to the Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM). Interfacing with this proprietary system using a generic aftermarket camera may be difficult and might require specialized adapters or professional installation." You may be better off using an aftermarket camera. •Red 12 volt power (from backup light wiring) •Black ground. •Yellow is video signal.

Don't have access to the wiring diagrams, so this is from other cars. Normally the glove box lamp wiring connects to a plug located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard, near the passenger side airbag area. (Will probably be wire tied to the frame.) The power for the glove light is integrated into the vehicle's general interior lighting circuit. Drop the glove box, look for the connector underneath the dash, near the vent duct on the passenger side. Should a two-wire connector. Did you see this post? .