enigma-2

Try your local parts yard. Nationally, Paul's is always a good place to try: https://www.paulsautosalvage.com/used-auto-parts-inventory

Remove bumper (15—18) Grill (15—18)

Try it with your Bluetooth turned off and see if that corrects it. (Conflict with two paths of connecrion.)

Couple of suggestions. 1. Replace the coin cell in your remote, and 2. Reset the system by disconnecting the car's battery for approximately 10 minutes. (Things can get disabled when the battery voltage ran low before the battery went dead. Doesnt always reset when power is restored.)

Check to see if there is anything blocking the windshield in front of the camera for a blockage. This camera needs a clear view of the road or the low beams can't activate. Read through the Automatic "High Beam Control" section in your owners manual for more. (Pg 82) Also make certain that the Automatic High Beams are turned on in the instrument cluster menu (vehicle->lighting->Automatic HighBeams) (Pg 106) .

Its almost always a broken wire at the door hinge area (wires flexing and pinching.) Heres one fix ...

Not certain as to what year Edge you have (doesn't show up in the mobile platform), these are designed to fit the 2020 (will first other years as well.) Under $5, but only has a 4 (out of 5) star rating. I'd read the 1 and 2 star comments to what what the problems are. (There are stickers for other knobs as well, just have to do a search on the Amazon to see.) 👉 https://a.co/d/d3mQJq0 .

As you have eliminated the possibility of low voltage, the bane of electronic modules, i would lean towards the FCIM failing when hot (a broken solder joint can open when hit and cause these problems. These types of intermittent failures are hard to track down.) Only other cause I can think of is one of the harness connectors has green crusties (corrosion.) My 09 does this every once in a while (not always heat related.) I'm usually able to recover the radio by playing with the steering wheel controls, or, by shutting off the car, open and close the doors, lock the doors with the remote, then unlock the doors, open the drivers door, and restarting the car. So far, thao procedure has fixed the hiccup. .

What CCA is your battery rated at; was it 650 CCA?

Believe he did. Only came up with P0113 > Intake air temp. #1 circuit high P25B0 > Fuel level sensor "A" stuck or has a malfunction. My first reaction was weak battery or defective BCM. But he didn't find any codes. Reason I suspected possible unplugged cluster is that it happened after getting car back from mechanic. ....Not that a mechanic would ever deliberately do anything underhanded. (grunt) .

Stupid question, did you ever check to see if the instrument cluster is plugged in?

Could be any number of reasons. Its only critical if its flashing.

When my PTU needing replacing, there was a muted roar type sound coming directly under the front seats. A roaring noise from the rear end is usually worn wheel bearings or differential ring and pinion gear issues in the RDU. Your mechanic found it was the RDU and refilled the unit. But the damage is done. You can't fix worn gears by just replacing the fluid. You will need to have your mechanic disassemble the RDU and visually inspect the RDU.

Is the part coming from Canada?

Whoa, ho, ho. After reading Omar302's post, I did some more digging. Seems Levittown was wrong. (But not me, of course .... :-) Here's what I'm finding now; "ML3Z-19A361-A is the part number for the Ford Perimeter Plus Vehicle Security System, a shock and impact sensor module. After a simple plug-and-play installation, the module automatically activates with an ignition cycle. Dealer programming is only needed if you want to add the optional remote start feature." So ill just sit here on the patio, feed the squirrels and hummers, drink my martunies and think happy thoughts. Let us know if you decide to go ahead and put one in.

Consider obtaining a copy of TSB 13-6-18. This specifically deals with a current draw due to the remote system keeping the electronics awake. Sometimes it just requires a software reload/update. As you have isolated the problem to the RF module, there's three possibilities. The module, wiring becoming grounded and a faulty RF hub. Most likely cause is the module has failed. (Shorted wiring would cause the battery to drain much faster & network issues would probably affect several other devices.) I've read in another forum where it was traced to water entry getting into the module. Caused it to stay on.

According to Levittown Ford, adding the factory perimeter alarm to a 2024 Edge ST with the part number ML3Z-19A361-A is NOT a simple plug-and-play installation and DOES requires dealer programming.

I'm still driving my 2009 MKX, and love the body roll. Course that doesn't happen as much after I had new shocks put on. Anyway, "rolling, rolling, rolling, though the streams are swollen Keep them tires rollin' Rawtread" (Old tv series opening theme song... Very old.) Anyway, there's "no oil change required" function on the first generation, and there's no "oil life xx%". Just change a 5k intervals. "Don't worry, be happy."

Seen this as an ad here on the cell version on the site, so I clicked on it thinking I was going to see her wearing two band aids and a cork. Disappointed, it was click bate. Oh well, back to watching YouTube videos on investing and the like. (Exciting, makes me get a rush all over.)

Ok, this is off topic, but should be ok in the lounge. Private Equity has successfully lobbyied congress to allow Private Equity to sell shares in 401k's. May take 5 years or so to show up, but if it dies, STAY AWAY. Far away. Stay in a good S&P 500 mutual fund like Vanguard, with low costs, and you'll be much better off. Anyway, here's a 15 minute video explaining why this is such a horror show for 401k's.

Try spraying the machismo at the floor with WD40. Gums up and causes the cam to stick. I got tired of my wife ... requesting .. me to fix it properly and replaced it with a new a$$embly. (And with a 2009 MKX, which are now obsolete, I had to scour every dealer in the country to find one; in my color.)

Ever figure this out? (Low freon will keep the system from engaging.)

You ever figure this out? I'd have thought the alternative putting out 15v would have made it a battery problem (that and the multiple failures.)

I look at the guides and check for a foreign body blocking (or perhaps pinching) the travel of the screen. .