enigma-2

Yup. The glaze causes the light to scatter, reducing the light pattern in the distance.

At this mileage, the most likely culprits are worn wheel bearings or RDU. If bearings, the noise changes pitch with speed and may get louder or quieter when you steer left or right. If RDU, there's a l growling or grinding that's most noticeable under light acceleration or during low-speed turns.

Believe I'm going to disagree with you on this. A private seller is NOT responsible for repairs once the sale is complete. Private party sales are typically considered "as-is," meaning the buyer accepts the vehicle's current condition and assumes all future repair costs. The only exception to this is intentional fraud or misrepresentation. Such as rolling back the odometer, hiding a salvage title, or explicitly stating in writing that a specific part was replaced when it was not. In order to win this in court, you would need to prove that the seller knew about the issue and intentionally deceived you. This can be he said, she said, in which case, you lose. Can always ask the seller to provide you with a written warranty (I.E. "will cover all necessary repairs to the engine or transmission for 30 days after sale," or the like.)

I had this happen to me as well. Too it to the dealer and he also diagnosed the problem as a faulty brake booster (which they replaced under extended warranty.) I finally got it fixed by taking the car in and had them do a full brake job, and a brake fluid change (which also necessitated resetting the ASB HCU valve.) This fixed it. (Actually, by getting a brake job, I got the brake "certified" technician, not just the jack of all trades technician. He knew exactly what was wrong. (Something about using the computer to cycle the valve.) Anyway, that fixed it and have had hard, high brakes ever since. The ABS HCU bypass valve is a known failure point that can stick open and show up as a soft brake pedal or even goes all the way to the floor. (This can get real exciting, really fast.) If a dump valve is stuck open, brake fluid is continuously bypassed into the low pressure accumulator, rather than being sent to the calipers. This causes the brake pedal to drop to the floor. .

Don't know the difference between the two. Probably the length. Anyway, there's a H2GZ-14A411-B listed on Ebay (UK) for £29.71. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135285761035

What happened to your rear springs requiring their replacement? Did you overload?

The reason for the higher torque on the 2024 Edge is because it uses larger diameter M14 studs (as compared to the smaller M12 studs found on older Edges and most sedans.) The main reason for the higher torque is because of the weight of the 2024 Edge. This weight requires more force for the wheel to be held to the hub to prevent slipping during for extreme maneuvers like emergency braking. According to published figures, the average weight of a 2024 Ford Edge is 4,122 to 4,525 pounds. (A 2007 Edge averaged 4,073 to 4,282 pounds.) These are "curb weights", to which you must add passengers and their junk. Add high speed on a tight curve and that's a lot of force being restrained on those lugs. If I'm not mistaken, I believe that its the same specification as on the F150. It's extremely important to use a torque wrench when mounting the wheels. Failure to get even pressure across the brake rotor surface will almost certainly cause warping of the brake rotors.

On a 2007 Edge rain leaking onto the driver's side is most likely due to one of three common areas. 1. a faulty windshield seal 2. clogged sunroof drains or 3. a blocked air conditioning drain. A known issue on the 2007 is the windshield adhesive can fail due to age, which causes the seal to slide and allow rain to soak the floor. It appears that you have addressed this. Clogged Sunroof Drains: If your Edge has a sunroof, if the sunroof drains get clogged, water can overflow into the headliner and down the pillars to the driver's floor. Blocked A/C Drain is a common problem. When clogged, water can back up and leak near the gas pedal on the driver's side. Also, worn or loose weatherstripping around the driver's door can allow water to seep in during heavy rain.

Who boy, whats the best oil... argument. There are so many. But here's a YouTube video I'd recommend.

This is the one I bought (for a different purpose, I don't have the capless fuel fill on my MKX.) Excellent quality and is reported to fit the Edge. Manufacturer advertises it's an "exact replacement" for the original Ford part number 8U5A-17B068-AD. $5 https://a.co/d/05R4gxEMexact replacement" for the original Ford part number 8U5A-17B068-AD.

In my personal opinion, Honda makes the best engines (found in the better off brands.) As far as for use on cars, use only the white (or black) pressure washer tips. With gas powered pressure washers, the tips are color coated indicating their spray angle. The spray angle determines the cleaning pressure. The color codes are: Red for 0°, (heavy blasting, you could cut steel), Yellow for 15° (for tough cleaning) Green for 25° (general cleaning) White for 40° (delicate surfaces) and Black for 65° (mainly for use with or detergents or rinsing the soap off). There are a bunch of accessories you can buy for use with a power washer when washing cars. I have several, such as a foam cannon, wheel cleaner and final rinse solution thingie. Plenty of YouTube videos on this subject. Always use low pressure for cars and wood; higher pressures on concrete. Have a special attachment for cleaning driveway and patio. What used to take 4-5 hours, now only takes one. It's a rotary brush surface scrubber. (Buy the Yamaha brand, lot of Chinese junk sold on Amazon. Pay a little extra, worth it. Mine is 15 or 20 years old, still looks and works, like new.) As for the pressure sprayer itself, I bought mine at Sam's Club 15-20 years ago. (They usually carry top quality products that you can depend on.) Mine's an off brand, brand is Simpson, has 2800 psi @ 3.2 gpm which is plenty for my needs. I bought it because it had a Honda overhead cam engine, and it has ran perfectly over the years. Starts easily, every time. Even with year-old gas. (That should trigger a bunch of thou-shalt-not's ... grin)

Take it to your dealer. They can $read$ the code in the cars computer.

● You check your tire pressure. ● You check your transmission fluid level. ● You check your coolant level. ● You check your power steering fluid level. ● You check your brake fluid level. ● You check your oil level. ● You check your engine air filter. ● You check your cabin filter. ● You check your seat filter. ● You check your exterior. lights to verify everything's working. ...... What are you forgetting? ....... What's the one thing you should be checking but haven't since .... ???? •• Tire pressure of the spare tire, hidden away in the trunk. 🚗....

I believe thereake be some confusion about Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. There are two different types (Stops Rust Rust Reformer and Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Reformer) and have different chemical formulations, depending on the application method. Method #1 is an aerosol spray (consists of an oil-based, alkyd formula), and Methoid #2, a brush-on liquid, which consists of a water-based copolymer (sort if a milky white liquid.) The brush-on takes rust and turns it into a flat black, inert primer. The only type I've used is the brush on and have had good success with it. It stopped rust for years (until I sold the car.(

If you only drain the radiator, how do you drain all of the coolant with the thermostat closed?

The carpet is all one piece. You must trove everything @itying on it, to remove it.

Try contacting the Sunroof Doctor we site. They provide / manufacture parts for Ford/Lincoln moonroofs. https://www.sunroofdoctor.com/

How did that work out?

I've used POR-15. You brush it on. Two coats. Messy, whatever it touches is permanent. As an expirement I coated the underside on my Simplicity garden tractor's mowing deck. (Lasted one year in the heavy wear areas. Still present in the edges.) Fluid film is usually sprayed on by professionals. Touched up once a year. But, inside a door interior, would probably last a lifetime.

Concerning the 2.0L engine, sometime during in 2019-2020, Ford changed over from the wide slot to the small, cross-drilled holes. Because this change increased the amount of solid metal on the block deck between cyl 2 & 3, it provided a much larger surface for the head gasket to seal against. The new design has proven to be a permanent fix & I can't recall a single case of gasket failure. As far as changing the coolant, if it were me. I'd get a copy of the Ford Service Manual for 2024 and read the procedure. $60 on Ebay, cheap insurance that will pay dividends for years. https://ebay.us/m/sfs60U

While you're back there, check the tightness of the spare tire and Jack assy. If the wing nut loosened slightly, its possible that causing the squeek.

As version 2.2 is the last version that did not have a "version check". (Its better to downgrade to 2.2 rather than 1.0). If your having problems, consider running a Master Reset (Settings > General > Master Reset) before attempting a downgrade. If you're still having problems downgrading, consider using the CyanLabs Syn3 Updater. Its been reported to help up and downgrading with Sync 3. https://share.google/a7C9jVp3OqLxxhrar .

Officially, Ford states that you cannot jump directly from SYNC 3 version 1.0 to 3.0. You must follow Ford's standard update path which requires you to first upgrade to an intermediate version, such as 2.2, before proceeding to 3.0 or higher. If you attempt to skip these intermediate steps, it will lead to issues like missing Android Auto or Apple CarPlay functionality, or broken voice recognition. Basically, you should first upgrade to v2.2. It includes pieces needed for the v3.0 features. Once v2.2 is confirmed in your system settings, you can apply the v3.0 update. Temember to perform a master reset after each update to clear glitches. Also remember that just upgrading the software isn't enough. For apple CarPlay, you must replace the USB hub with a CarPlay-compatible version.

You'll probably be better off. 😁 Keep us informed as to what happens. .

<Oskar27> like to know what your dealer did/said. They spray or tear the door apart$$?