lildisco

After filling up, for a few miles, every time you pulled up to a stop light/sign, it would idle rough & acted like it was going to stall. Swapped the $22 purge valve (non OEM, which I couldn't find an OEM for anything less than $170 + $20 shipping & included extra pipes/tubing) . After swapping, no rough idle after fillup & mpgs are back up to normal range.

No codes, stumbling at idle after fillup & poor mpgs over the last few tanks & cleaned the MAF after the 1st tank I noticed was bad.

Me thinks that the purge valve on our 2016 SEL Fwd 2.0 Ecoboost was starting to go bad at 56,4xx miles....

2020 owners manual

Did some errands tonight and the auto start/stop worked as it should. My trip mpg, which I reset after every fill up, shows me at 27.3 mpg for this tank ?

My 2020 SEL AWD bought in October 2020 is on it OEM battery. I occasionally throw it on a battery tender from time to time. It's currently ~16,000 miles & sits a lot. I noticed the last few days on drives ~30 - 40 minutes the auto start/stop wouldn't work. In the menu it said that it wasn't working because of system charging. I hooked up my battery tender the other night & let it charge for a few hours & the tender was saying it was @ 75 - 100, which isn't unheard of. Had to take the cat to the vet (regular check up) & disconnected the tender (which was in trickle/maintaine mode) & my auto start/stop was working fine. I guess it helps to charge the battery up from time to time. I don't do it constantly & I know the car adjusts it's charging during due to the battery age & etc., but I'm wondering if it's more of a programming issue to replace the battery sooner rather than later, who knows? Wonder if I should reset the battery monitor & see if the auto/start stays functioning without a top up.

I thought that the only engine choices in 2019 were the 2.0 or the 2.7 Ecoboost.

I believe that you're also limited to a 600lbs tounge weight.

I like how there's not much difference between grades, but you can keep those prices on the west coast. I'd park the car before I paid that much.

Found a newer local gas station that sells Ethanol free gas & it's not much more expensive than premium.

I just remembered something that it also has to be AWD to get 3500lbs, FWD is limited to 2000lbs. I think that it has something to do with bigger brakes & when you take off the weight transfers to the back, so having AWD helps there. All 2016 - 2018 Sports are AWD (2015 they made some FWD versions) & all ST's are AWD. If I could go back in time, I would have bought my 2020 SEL with the towing package so I wouldn't have to install the hitch & wiring, but I have a better hitch & don't have a hole in the bumper. If you want to continue towing near the max towing, I'd recommend changing fluids much earlier than recommended, upgrading your pads & rotors & look at helper springs to deal with the sagging. I bought Air Lift Springs & they definitely help with sagging when towing heavier things or when I have passengers in the back or lots of cargo.

You sure that it wasn't the previous Gen? Because there's no oil cooler or trans cooler part of the towing package for the 2015+ edge. The Sports didn't have a factory towing package & you'd have to go after market for a hitch & wiring, but limited to 3,500lbs. I also have a Curt class 3 hitch & after market wiring for a 4 pin connector. I usually just pull a ZTR, but I can pull a more if I want to.

Picked up some cabinets & tables from a neighboring high school auction. Doing truck stuffs

You don't need to pull the front bumper to replace the horn. I turned the wheel all the way one way (I believe passenger side) & unscrewed the fender liner screws & gives you access to the horn. I may have loosened an access panel in front of the wheel, but I don't remember. I purchased an OEM horn from a 15-18 edge & it was plug & play. Pretty easy actually. Probably 15 - 20 minutes total from start to finish. This guy removed the headlight to gain access, same principle.

Currently sitting ~30.6 on my 2020 SEL. I'm assuming that it'll be ~28 manually calculated.

I can say that the Curt & other units like it aren't plug & play. You do have to wire to a power source, either the battery or the interior fuse panel with an add a fuse/quick fuse. They're not difficult to install, but definitely aren't plug & play. I used the Curt Class 3 hitch on my 2020 SEL AWD & the Curt T harness wiring. The only downside from the factory hitch is that the hitch sits 3-4 inches lower than the OEM one as it comes from under the bumper instead of through the bumper. The Curt Class 3 hitch probably took me ~2 hours to install by myself. Would have been less if I had help. I also installed Helper Springs to keep it level while towing.

Definitely rides better while towing with the Helper springs installed. In the dual pic, the latest pic is the top pic

City driving / short trips kill my mpgs on my 2020 SEL AWD. Fuel quality & tire pressures play huge in these vehicles. Gas isn't the same, look for top tier fuel & I keep my tire pressures around 38psi in the front & 39psi in the rear.

Bought this for ~$100 to see if it helps the sagging while towing. Did a run with a load in the hatch & didn't notice much of a difference, but I'll see what it does with the trailer in the next few weeks.

Took the day off work to do truck stuff

Welcome, looks like we're twins. I have 35% on the front with the factory tint on the back

Test fit & run with Mockins cargo hauler bought last year. Used the anti-ratted clip unloaded & didn't hear anything after an hour drive. Maybe the weather will hold out & I can test it with a load. Supposedly can haul 600lbs, but don't plan hauling anywhere near that with this. I like that you can still access the hatch with it installed.

I know the non sports/ST's are screw in style.

OLM said 42% & I usually change it around 50%, so past due in my book.