commbubba19

ROFL Yes, and having them attached to the wheel is in the racing world considered incorrect. They are supposed to be attached to the column to truly be properly functional and are usually around 6" tall. Not 2-3" in size like on most street vehicles. Again, that applies to a wheel you only turn at most 90* each way lock to lock. Consider your facts straightened.

Links for your reference http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41251 Quoted from the page: DOWNLOAD LINKS TO "UNOFFICIAL" V3.0 BUILD_17276 Nav version: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwH...h3c0dEVWc/view Mirror: Here Non-Nav: https://ufile.io/e237n Mirror: www.transfernow.net/21hge078zolt (Follow official pdf instructions below) Installation instructions: 1. Download. 2. Unzip onto desktop. 3. Grab a USB Flash Drive, 32GB minimum. 4. Format the drive to exFAT. 5. Put the extracted files inside the flash drive. 6. Turn car on. Turn bluetooth off, just in case(optional). Or master rest before beginning. 7. It might take 5 mins for Updating System Software message to pop up, then 19 mins to install from thereon Depending on the Ford model, it might reboot automatically after installation is complete, if navigation maps don't come back don't worry turn off/on the car again. *OFFICIAL UPDATE v2.3.10 --> OWNER.FORD.COM* **CAUTION:There are FOUR versions to this update, MY 16 Nav/Non-Nav, and MY 17 Nav/Non-Nav, a single file will not work for both years! Even if they appear identical, use the one for your model year! You risk damaging APIM and/or Gracenotes and possibly other things** ***FOR INSTALLATION TO GO FLAWLESSLY THE FIRST TIME, USE MIN. 32GB USB DRIVE WITH 3.0 SPEED FOR BEST RESULTS.*** Mirror links:North America: Official link to MY 16 w/Nav: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/owner-...-14G381-AJ.zip Official link to MY 17 w/Nav: http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/owner-...-14G381-AJ.zip

I'm running the latest ver 3. I believe build 17276. Works fine. I see no discernible difference between it and ver 2. Wifi updates do not work at all. Your system will never update over wifi. I may go back to the official 2.3 or just wait for the official 3. Either way i'm not impressed.

This is the correct way. Drain reservoir and radiator. Remove hoses and undo the two bolts. Replace tstat and reconnect everything back up. Refill fluid via the reservoir and then turn on the car and let it run for 15 min. The cap is self burping so once the tstat opens, fluid levels should go down. Turn off the car and then refill until full.

The strut bar is not doing anything. You're experiencing a placebo effect. The strut bar does not effect wheel hop. Nor would the rear. If the chassis was flexing, that strut bar still would not do anything as it has a pivot point on both sides. strut bars must be solid. Basically all you did was add weight to the already front heavy car. To improve cornering get better tires, springs, better more aggressive alignment, and stiffer sway bars / end links are what you need. Lastly, replacing any suspension bushings with poly bushings will decrease flex but increase ride harshness and nvh.

find a track that sells race fuel. usually they specify their octane rating. however it is quite expensive.

love folks that say that flappy paddle shifters solve all problems. try this. put your car in sport and make sure you've shifted with the paddles. stop at an intersection with your hands at 10/2 or even 9/3. in 1st gear. now turn right and accelerate. it is impossible to properly complete the turn and position your hands correctly to shift into 2nd at an appropriate rpm. flappy paddles came from f1. where the steering wheel never even sees a full turn lock to lock. more like half a turn so the hands don't need to move. on the street is different. this is why you see rally cars, drifters, touring car, etc use a sequential shifter. because they actually have to turn the steering wheel just like a normal car. flappy paddles in cars are a fad put in place by marketing bozos and everyone has to copy everyone nowadays so now all auto cars have stupid flappy paddle shifters. it's dumb and if you argue you're proving you're dumb.

I got the box yesterday. It's cold so I probably won't install it until next week. I did ring up MRT and left a voicemail but of course no call back. I really hate businesses that ignore customers.

I will try.

ordered mine. i need to get under and see exactly where they're expecting the cut to occur. the instructions make it sound like you cut at the bend but that doesn't make any sense. and that one picture of where to cut is worthless haha.

This is correct. The shift firmness is a learned behavior somewhat. Even when driving 'nicely' for the first couple hundred miles, it will always be firm when cold. I hated it so much that i asked them to put the factory shift strategy back in. The 'firm' shifts are not doing anything to enhance performance.

Ok this is rather unclear. I have the same noise on windy days or when driving at 75mph or higher. A friend has a base 16 Edge with the same noise. Can you better explain exactly what you did to resolve the noise issue. I don't believe it is related to the seat belts.

Nick, that street light magically moved closer to the street. Amazing. I ordered mine through TireRack. Probably be a month or two before they come in. You mentioned the one side rear took you 5 hours. Why? The fronts shouldn't be that bad if the strut mount bolts are accessible.

Good to know. I was looking at some 20x10's +45. Probably going to run a 295/40/20 tire.

So i've noticed that randomly, my 2016 Sport will turn the a/c on at startup. The thing is, it's not hot outside. I've had this happen when it's 45* in my garage or in the low 50's outside. When turning the car off, the hvac controls are as follows: Auto, 72, but i manually lowered the fan to 1. I do this pretty much daily, but the a/c thing happens maybe 2-3 times a month. Like I said, it's not warm and definitely not humid, but i'm trying to figure out why the car thinks it needs the a/c on. Anyone else notice this?

Yep. Heat gun and then slowly work the badge loose. I use a plastic pry tool and just lift the badge off when the glue is gooey. Then goo gone and a bit of elbow grease to remove the glue.

No. Probably LMS later this year.

Thought I'd leave this here. My recommendations in order of purchase. Better brake fluid (Dot 4 vs Dot 3) - This and bleeding the system will greatly help pedal feel and heat resistance (foot to floor issue from boiling brake fluid after repeated high speed stops) Better Pads - take your pick. Better pads have more friction and heat dissipation preventing fade from repeated high speed stops. More aggressive pads wear quicker and will eat up your rotors faster. Larger vented rotors - Increase surface area (larger rotor > drilled/slotted). Larger Calipers - More even pad pressure being applied along with greater pressure. Larger caliper allows for larger pad which increases surface area which increases brake performance. Stainless Lines - These really only come into play under high heat conditions. The stock lines (from the caliper to the hard line which allows suspension movement) are thick rubber and as they heat up, allow expansion. Normal street vehicles will not experience this as the lines do not get hot enough. Stainless lines prevent this expansion under high heat conditions.

Seems like a very odd and rare circumstance. You likely would have had a failure regardless.

I don't prefer the digital tach but whatever. My issue is with that pathetic vertical thing with huge numbers on a blue background with a blue filler that is supposed to tell me my rpm's. It's pointless even for a random glance. You're fine with the gauges, ok. I'm not, they suck. It'll be interesting to see where Ford goes in future models.

They have to go into the IDS (don't quote me on this, but that's what the service manager said) system and re-enable it. It literally is an on/off setting. My dealer had it fixed the following morning.

Dug into this more. Older designs used a/c refrigerant and fans to flow air through the seat (ducting). I see why what i said was misleading. it's not a pipe directly from an a/c vent using the main condenser but I think that's been done too. I did find and read through this article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling Interesting that the cooled seats have the fans run, but the heated seats do not appear to. It technically still is a heating 'element' as the peltier device or thermoelectric cooler heats one side as the other cools when electricity is applied. if a fan is activated when the heat cycle is turned on, it's not much, but when the cooled seat is activated, the fans in the seat kick on pretty high. The problem is the air is pulled in from under the seat into the seat but has no where to go which is why many complain the seat back doesn't cool. I still am not sold on the heating and cooling being performed by the same peltier device. Be nice to see one of the these seats torn apart.

Sorry, the 20's are an ugly design and the chrome doesn't belong on the Sport as there is nothing else chrome on the outside. Just looks out of place. Go with the 21's. The ride is fine and the sidewall is plenty to prevent damage from a pot hole. Plus the dark grey looks great on any color sport. Weight isn't much of a difference either.

wut? where do you get your info dude? anyway, no the heated seats do not use a fan. it's a warming element inside the seat with 3 levels of intensity. the cooling seat directs air into the seat using the a/c and fan. Due to the seat design, not much air gets to the back so most of the cooling will be in the seat, not the back.

My 16 rattles. Moonroof rattles. Hatch rattles. Dash/windshield rattles. I've fixed the hatch and moonroof mostly. I still get a banging popping noise when the roof is in ventilation mode. I have no clue what is causing the snap/crack sounds from the windshield area. AWD is fine for winter. Of course, a good set of winter tires matters more than AWD. My mileage is around 21 combined. It's ok. Not as good as I hoped considering the small engine. PTU needs fluid changes to stay solid. If you get adaptive steering, you may have issues. My steering wheel had to be replaced. Fit and finish is poor as well. I have multiple interior panels that are way off. I've compared to other 2nd gen edges that are not. My driver's door was sagging and hitting the rear door when closed and the top of the rear passenger door was sticking out at the top. Honestly, if i knew then what i know now, especially the lack of aftermarket support. i'd buy something else. Yes it has a lot of features for the money but if you have any OCD about fit, finish, or reliability, look elsewhere.