commbubba19

Sorry but a true car person does not ask such a question.

Coming from IT, the cluster is just dumb. The screen space is completely under utilized and the color scheme poor. Seeing better variants in vehicles like my Mustang, the new 2018 Mustang's all digital cluster, the F150, and the variations in Europe proves that Ford does know how to do a good cluster, but for some reason, the guy assigned to the Edge got way lazy.

Agreed. Probably some millennial at Ford thought it'd be cool. Sometimes, different isn't always better. Anyway, got a call from the dealer. They said they went ahead and ordered a new steering wheel yesterday and it came in this morning and they've already replaced it. I'll be sure to make sure everything is working when I pick it up. Hopefully that fixes it. Pretty surprised at the turn around on the part considering how others here had to wait awhile.

Dropped mine off yesterday morning. They gave me an XLT F-150 to drive. Noticeably larger but also more solid. No weird pops and noises from the windshield/dash area. Gauge cluster is better too. I like the simple middle screen with the two gauges to the side. It has the 2.7EB too. Getting the same if not better mileage too with the auto stop/start.

Did you just get a general sheet of their tint? What size?

Still no warning since my earlier post. My appointment is for Thursday. We'll see what they say.

Any updates?

I posted this on the FB group. My 2016 Edge Sport built 8/16 has had the steering fault twice now in the last 2 weeks. It clears on the next key cycle. I've made an appointment with my local dealer for Friday morning to look at that. Plus i'll have them look at the driver's front and passenger rear door alignment issues. I might even have them look at the poor interior panels.

Ray is correct. HERE is the underlying navigation engine but Sync is interpreting and displaying that data. It's like some sort of algorithm is built in to display certain roads based on distance and zoom level of the map. I have the map view set to auto zoom so it adjusts. Strangely, it never seems to always show the same road names but randomly selects which names to display. Like stated above, I'd prefer main roads displayed over random. What's even more redundant is that it displays what road i'm currently on twice. Once on the bottom of the screen and again on the actual display. Not to mention the center display nav option will also display my current road. Sometimes I wonder who designs the GUI's for Ford. Though the edge's dash displays are nice and very modern, they leave a lot to be desired for the user with some technical knowledge.

I noticed a lot with SYNC's navigation that road names are not displayed consistently or conveniently. Example, I noticed when coming up to a main intersection, the cross direction street is unlabeled. if i zoom out manually, the street will be labeled out of the screen's view. I normally keep the zoom level on automatic. I've noticed other primary streets completely unlabeled. Why is this? Why label a road out of view of the current zoom level. I've noticed secondary roads labeled in view vs. primary roads. Very inconsistent and not helpful.

I had this issue as well. For some reason the phone would pair via BT but when i selected messages from the settings screen in SYNC, it would state that no messages could be retrieved. I can't remember if I posted this on the site or not. All other functions, phone, contacts, etc worked but new messages received would never show up on SYNC. I ended up deleting my phone from SYNC and SYNC from my phone and re-did the whole BT sync process. Since then it's been fine.

I don't even have 5k miles on my 2016 sport and i'm already just frustrated enough that I'm thinking of trading it in soon and I haven't even had the worst issues that I've read about. My biggest annoyance is the panoramic roof and sync/hvac controls. The roof makes more noise than my old jeep. Today just putting it in ventilation mode, I now get random loud pops while on the interstate. Didn't happen last week, now it's consistently doing it. Why? What changed? What's broken? Not to mention the poor exterior body panel fitment. My doors still don't line up correctly. I don't know if there's another vehicle out there that's better in terms of features, but QC from Ford just sucks and if I''m not happy, why continue to own something that frustrates me. Life's too short.

I'd rather have visibility and not need it than need visibility and not have it. I've not had any issues with the B-pillar size and compared to my 4Runner, it's about the same.

https://drivetribe.com/t/Nc_FyS2wTVORhmOVbszSyw/YGfFsnbkR-u0gxH_K-bPMQ If you own a 1st or 2nd Gen Edge Sport, join up!

https://drivetribe.com/t/Nc_FyS2wTVORhmOVbszSyw/YGfFsnbkR-u0gxH_K-bPMQ If you own a 1st or 2nd Gen Sport, join up!

Looks good.

So i solved mine tonight. Background - i noticed a snappy clicking noise coming from the roof in the last few weeks. I normally leave the sunshade open and the roof in ventilation mode. At first it was pretty rare but as the temperature has cooled, it's persisted more. The wife helped and noticed that if she put pressure on the little rubber molding right above where the sunshade sits when closed, the noise went away. I duplicated this while driving. Put a little pressure on the plastic molding where the shade rests and the clicking snapping noise stopped. Now you're probably thinking its the magnets that hold the headliner to the roof sheet metal. But it wasn't. So i opened the sunroof and sat on the center console and started poking around. I noticed that there is insulation that runs along between the headliner and moonroof the entirety of the perimeter of the panel. So using a interior pry tool, i managed to unsnap the front two magnets and started messing with that insulation. Sure enough, its glued onto the roof and the right side looked like it was rolling towards the front of the car. Why i don't know, but when i pushed down and released, the glue would make that same stupid noise. The colder the glue, the more snappy and loud the noise would be. Makes sense now as the weather has gotten colder. So i wasn't sure what to do. Wedging something in there to put pressure on the insulation would help keep it in place, but the insulation is very thin, maybe 1/4" wide and a 1/4" thick. I really don't know what it's purpose is except maybe to keep dirt out of that area. After messing a bit I decided to just remove it. I removed the entirety of the insulation along the front of the moonroof. I had some window a/c insulation foam lying around that was about the same length and shoved it in there. This foam was 1-1/2" thick and I knew would serve the same purpose and not move especially since there was no glue and it was held in place via pressure. Went for a test drive and sure enough, no noise. Was quite nice. Pics below to help show what i did. Sorry but it was very difficult to capture the best photos. Hope this helps if anyone is willing to take this on or even point the dealership in this direction. I could easily see that glue making the noise anytime the headliner moves which could really occur anywhere around the perimeter of the moonroof panel. Insulation: Right Front corner Insulation partially removed Bad shot sorry The foam i shoved in it's place More insulation being removed Driver's front insulation being removed. I cut it and left a clean edge. Replacement foam

What did they say they did?

I know - again, hence my insanity on the issue. Some times it works exactly as described. Other times, I can stand there and pull on the handle 10 times and it's locked. It's completely inconsistent behavior which is my big pet peeve with IA.

My sunroof is starting to creak and rattle when in ventilation position. Closed it's less noticeable but still there. If I close the shade it's pretty much gone but that may not last. I like to keep it in ventilation mode and of course that is when the noise is the most prevalent.

How did you resolve the sunroof creak? Mine's starting to do it.

Yes.

Hence my insanity. Try it with the drivers door being closed before opening the rear door.

Yeah - optional. So those that wanted it to stay can, those that want it to revert can. The IA thing is random and drives me nuts. Example: Taking my kid to school. She's not quite old enough to open the door on her own. So I pull into the parking spot and put it in Park. Key is in my pocket. I get out and close my door. (vehicle is running) I attempt to open the driver's rear door, it is locked. I try again, no such luck. Door remains locked. After a random number of attempts, the door unlocks and I can open it. or It remains locked and I have to re-open my door and unlock all locks via the door button. Please note, there are other days where doing the same exact steps and the rear door immediately unlocks. I've now reverted to telling my kid to pull on the handle twice and so far that's worked. To me, it's the IA not properly detecting the key. I'm standing in the same spot each time.

Good read. So far 1600 miles on my 16 Sport. So far no issues.