AntDeek

So it turns out my iPhone camera sucks at recording low frequencies, but here’s a short snippet of the visor vibrating. It’s so strong I can feel it through the brake and gas pedals. I’m so happy these cars have a factory 150A alternator, and my car being an SE doesn’t really tax it. Forscan shows ~25a at idle and ~80a when the volume is up and the bass hits hard. Voltage stays at ~14.1v. Plenty of headroom so I’m not overworking the alternator. I’ve only hit over 100A with the AC and DRLs on. Funniest part, when the bass hits at idle the tach drops ever so slightly indicating the alternator having a load applied to it. Kinda cool since we don’t have a battery gauge on our clusters.

Can’t upload the sound clip it’s too big. But she kicks and the visor shakes lmao

Sound Clips coming later today. Also did an oil change with Shell's new Rotella Gas Truck and an FL-500S

Installed a 350w kicker amplifier and a 10" 2 ohm DVC sub.

I made my rear oulet switchable using a toggle switch hidden under the steering column

Hey man I solved it, use the climate control fuse and tap an inline fuse off it, it’s switched. Fuse 37.

Looks like we have the same question at the same time. Hope someone can help us

Hi guys, I searched and found a topic on here where a user added a fuse on the fuse 41 (Occupant Classification/Restraint control module.) I used an add a fuse kit and added its original size 7.5 amp fuse and a new fuse off of it 5 amps for my kicker amp's remote wire. Is this safe? I am worried about the module/ crash safety. Is there a better way to find switched power? Thanks a ton, i love this forum. Anthony

Yes, it is the fastest, but as akirby says, the only thing that will make true power are JDM and K&N stickers, along with poking holes in the muffler with a screwdriver.

Thanks guys. Im seriously thinking about pulling the trigger on this tune.

Im wondering if the AWD internal clutches are releasing with the engine off. Maybe they have a hold feature.

Hey guys, Been thinking about getting an Unleashed or Livernois email tune and an SCT. My setup is a stock (except various forscan mods) 2013 SE with a 3.5 and a 6F50. I wanna bring it over that 300 horsepower mark. My qualms however would be decreased longevity and increased (especially trans) wear. Is this a true statement to believe? Ive never had my trans flushed but I do a 5 quart drain and fill twice yearly to keep my fluid fresh. Thanks for any input!

Offtopic but is your name referencing ASAP Rocky if so that’s one of my favorite songs lol

What kind of fob do you have? Is it just your normal keyfob with a starter button?

I absolutely love how this 2013 SE has most of the wiring intact from higher trim levels. Previously I have added Ford factory (CANBUS) remote start using a hood pin switch kit and FORScan. To complement this, I have also added the extended range antenna kit from Ford, that plugs into the TPMS module, extending my fob and remote start range. I have since activated the DRL's as well, along with full LEDs except the halogens. My focus has switched to a newer "dummy" wire on my dash that would normally go to the Sunload Sensor for the autolamps. I thought to myself, "can I find 12v here? at least I could hard wire my radar detector if so!?" But no, its 5v. but its live! So now, my next challenge is to find a headlamp switch with the Autolamp feature and a Sunload Sensor. I realize I may have to do some deep diving with FORScan. Alternatively, I could just get a sunload sensor and jump the pins pretaining to autolamps in the current headlight switch connector. Anyone have any thoughts?

Looks like they dropped the 3.5. I guess they might be sadly discontinuing this great motor :/

Heads up everyone, the Ward's article is back online https://www.wardsauto.com/news-analysis/ford-motor-co-duratec-35-35l-dohc-v-6

Finally got a DTC in forscan. Switch pack fails intermittently.

Technically all of us just need to meet the MC-945-A spec for our motors. But yes. Any SN and GF-5 oil will provide outstanding wear protection, and synthetics resist heat breakdown and last longer across the interval.

The point was that if you belive all of the marketing crap behind AMSOIL or even Royal Purple, you are a fool. For example, Mobil 1 EP is an ester based oil, as is AMSOIL and RP. The same wear numbers and similar TBN's prove that the pricey "boutique" oils are NOT any more suited for wear protection or even deposit protection. Any oils meeting the API SN or SNPLUS rating, as well as ILSAC GF-5, are excellent oils and the main differences between them is how LONG you can go for an OCI. Remember folks: The best oil filter is a good air filter. (And don't buy a KN gauze garbage filter!)

Amsoil is a freaking sham and provides no better wear numbers than Mobil 1 or any other leading Synthetic meeting API SN or SNPLUS. Please dont spread misinformation or quote me with an article from 2008 about it.

I can absolutly confirm there IS a difference in the 3.5NA. Using Forscan I can see an average of 35 degree timing advance, and with 93 octane, the VCT solenoids provide closer to 50 degrees. Wether or not this provides a performance/economy gain is still up for debate, but the PCM definitly sees it. As far as price, here in NJ a tank of 87 costs me around $40, and around $45 for 93. Not a big difference at all.

I use 93 octane in my 3.5 Duratec since the timing will advance further than on regular fuel.

Changed out the factory coolant at 60k with two gallons of Prestone Dex-Cool.

Thank you