Metroplex

FYI - The 2019-up 2.7 Edge/Ranger/Mustang/Explorer ST throttle body is NOT compatible with the older Edge Sport/Fusion Sport/Mustang EcoBoost throttle bodies. The motor is marked "DIGITAL OUTPUT" on the 2019-up part while the older one is not marked as such. I believe this is also the reason the 11-14 Coyote TB is not compatible with the 15-up Coyote TB as some have found trying to retrofit the 15-up Coyote 80mm TB onto their 11-17 3.7L V6 Mustangs. The FRPP/Ford Racing/Ford Performance 70mm TB for the Mustang 2.3 will work on the 2.7 EcoBoost but note that the back of the TB is not actually 70mm. The Ford Racing 2.3 EcoBoost throttle body is actually 65mm at the rear (where it interfaces with the intake manifold) and uses a Ford throttle body motor assembly (wouldn't be surprised if it is the same factory motor used on the stock TB). The front opening is 70mm but tapers down. The stock 2.3/2.7/3.0 EcoBoost throttle body is 61.9mm rear but the 2019-up Edge ST/Ranger/Explorer throttle body motor is marked "DigitalOutput" so I am assuming the earlier ones are analog, which is why the FRPP throttle body is only advertised for 15-17 Mustangs (which used the same stock TB as the Fusion Sport/Edge Sport). I've read a lot of forum posts where people were criticizing the FRPP 70mm TB saying it's too big for the stock manifold, etc... when it is now obvious they actually never looked at one, used one, or measured one.

Any updates on this? My 2.7 EcoBoost has given me problems mainly on Cylinder 6. After a cold start (let's say ambient is between 40F and 70F) if I get on the gas too aggressively at a busy road near my home and come to a stop, it could start misfiring badly resulting in the flashing CEL with no power, or a stall out coming to a stop. If I take it easy until the ECT is about 150F and suddenly go WOT to merge onto the freeway (so technically the engine isn't fully warmed up at ECT 150F-170F) and let off the throttle, it will start stumbling, with a flashing CEL, and no power. It was limiting me to 55 mph the other day. When the ambient temperature is hot (80F-100F) like all this summer, I never had any problems. I once did a test where I'd replicate the WOT scenario but with the engine fully warmed up. I'd smell a lot of stuff being burned in the engine, my guess is the oil and gunk from the turbos that build up in the intercooler. I drilled the 1/16" weep hole and always see a light coating of oil spraying out but still have this issue from time to time. During a cold start (sub-zero ambient up to whatever) if I idle a long time, it will misfire between 1, 3, and 4 and as soon as the engine starts to warm up and kick it into low warmed up idle (600 RPM) the misfiring goes to cyl 6. I changed new plugs last year and it smoothed it out for a few days until it started doing it again. I swapped coils as well to no avail.. Just curious if the OP's missing ground electrodes were a symptom of a problem.

FYI - my 1-2 shifts are now in the 0.45-0.46 second range and the 2-3 is in the 0.3xx range. I've used the change in engine RPM initially but found if I use a custom math formula (Input Shaft / Output Shaft) it is far easier to see the change in gear ratios which technically is when your shift starts/ends. If you look at TCC slip, it kind of skews results because the TCC doesn't fully lock in 1st or 2nd gear. On the several 6F55s I have, the TCC doesn't quite fully lock until further along in 3rd gear (like 4000+ RPM). Below that there's about 200-300+ RPM of slip. I kept running into trans shift mod torque source messages followed by spark cut for the 2-3, but I found that doing the WOT 2-3 a few times seems to make it go away and make it faster. I am not sure if it is an issue with HPTuners resetting the KAM and trans adaptive tables when reflashing TC-1791 while it does not do either on TC-1797 (EcoBoost) which could explain the difference.

The MKZ 3.0 oil cooler can be retrofitted onto the 2.7 in the Fusion Sport (direct-fit). You just need a new hose from the degas bottle. The hose that runs from the rear of the oil cooler doesn't need to be changed. Be aware if you have a JLT oil separator (which is kind of useless IMHO), you won't be able to use the oil cooler as that is exactly where the oil cooler is situated.

For the TCC open slip tables, I zero them out. This is what I was taught way back for the 4R70W to prevent/reduce unnecessary TCC slip. For torque truncation and torque reduction during shifts, there's been a lot of discussion on HPTuners about this and it was recommended to leave them enabled to keep your trans living longer. On my 2018 Explorer AWD Tow Package w/ N/A 3.5L V6 and 6F55, the engine makes peak torque at 4k RPM (255 ft-lb advertised) but at WOT shift points that torque is down to about 200 ft-lb. Ford in its infinite wisdom kept the same/similar torq reduction for upshift tables as the EcoBoost V6 6F55. Which as you know, those stock tables allow for 300 ft-lb or so with 350+ ft-lb input torque. On my Fusion Sport 2.7 I don't see much/any torque reduction at WOT shifts, but on my Explorer with its puny N/A 3.5 V6 had massive spark cut at WOT. I find if I do numerous WOT shifts after each tune flash it eventually settles in and stops doing the spark cut. TC-1791 (the N/A Explorer) seems to be different from TC-1797 on the EcoBoost applications. My shift times for WOT 1-2 and 2-3 on the Explorer are about 0.46-0.47 seconds which seem slow to me. Have you found ways of making it any faster? If you kept the torque reduction disabled, how long as your stock transmission lasted with all that power?

Ok. That's not too bad then. That's 4 shifts to the 1/4 mile line, but that 2-3 is way too short. If you skip from 2 to 4, then it'll be bogging for a bit. Not the ideal setup. The 10R60 was set up a bit better as you could skip about 2 gears without dipping below the powerband if you can somehow program it to skip those gears at WOT.

I was considering a new 2020 or 2021 Edge ST, but seeing how much of it is the same as the earlier Edge Sport, I was wondering if Sport owners could chime in: Does the Edge Sport have a PTU cooler? You can tell if there are 2 cooling hoses going towards the bottom of the PTU (by the drain plug area). Someone told me their Edge Sport did not have one. Ford apparently installed these on the MKZ/Fusion with 2.7/3.0 Does the Edge Sport have an aux trans cooler that is oil-to-air (like a radiator behind the grille)? I know there is an oil-to-water exchanger on top of the trans that is used to help warm up the ATF and to regulate the ATF temperature using coolant. That's why the ATF temperatures are never much cooler than your engine coolant temperatures. My Fusion Sport has a trans cooler under the left fog light as well as the cooling block on top of the trans. I'm pretty sure the Edge Sport doesn't have an engine oil cooler (would sit next to the oil filter cap) as I've only seen them on the truck 2.7 engines, but I thought I'd ask anyhow. Thanks in advance

I've seen onboard videos of the 2020 Explorer ST run and I didn't hear any skipping, some of those gears are so short that it is just wasting time with the shifts. I mapped out the output shaft speeds and engine RPMs for the ST's 3.0 and there are 2 or 3 gears that can be totally skipped and still keep you in the powerband for the 2.7/3.0 The 8-speed is just the new "Ford"/GM 9-speed but Ford took out a gear to make 8 (so 6-speed with 2 extra gears instead of 3 like on the Traverse), claiming they can get the same MPGs as the 9 speed without the extra gear. GM claims the 9 speed gearbox allows for a smoother driving experience. Those are nice 1/4 mile runs and 60' times! The Explorer ST's with just a tune are in the 12.0x range, and the stock turbos can flow massive amounts of air.

2019 Fusion Sports (same engine as the Edge Sport) still have issues with oil pan leaks. I haven't been able to hear back from any 2020 Explorer ST owners with the 3.0 on whether Ford re-designed that pan, or 2020-up Edge ST owners.

I'm considering a 2020 or 2021 Edge ST once Ford's factories fire up later this year. Was curious if there are any common issues or known issues with the latest Edge ST's. I'm still reading about oil pan leaks on the 2.7 with 2019 Fusion Sports, but I heard rumors Ford revised the pan design on 2020-up 2.7s to solve the leak issues. Are there any leaks with the 2.7, 8-speed, or the PTU/RDUs? Does the Edge sport/ST have a PTU cooler? You can tell if there are 2 cooling hoses going towards the bottom of the PTU (by the drain plug area). Someone told me their Edge Sport did not have one. Ford apparently installed these on the MKZ/Fusion with 2.7/3.0 Does the Edge ST have an aux trans cooler that is oil-to-air (like a radiator behind the grille)? I know there is an oil-to-water exchanger on top of the trans that is used to help warm up the ATF and to regulate the ATF temperature using coolant. That's why the ATF temperatures are never much cooler than your engine coolant temperatures. My Fusion Sport has a trans cooler under the left fog light as well as the cooling block on top of the trans. I'm pretty sure the Edge ST doesn't have an engine oil cooler (would sit next to the oil filter cap) as I've only seen them on the truck 2.7 engines, but I thought I'd ask anyhow. How are the LED headlights? IIHS testing shows they should be fairly good. my Fusion Sport has all-LED headlights/foglights but I find they don't project far enough so I can't see potholes in wet weather at night until the last possible moment... then the 235/40R19 thin tires tend to pop in potholes. My 2018 Explorer LED lowbeams are very good, I can see the road just fine even in the dark with rain/slush but the thick 245/60R18 tires go through potholes like they aren't there. I watched the Savage Geese reviews primarily for the underbody shots, and am impressed Ford used all aluminum control arms with aluminum knuckles for the Edge Sport/ST and Fusion Sport. They didn't do this on the Explorer ST. I need something that can handle Michigan road salt in the winter.

I have tuned my 2017 Fusion Sport, and the PCM/TCM is 99.999% the same as the Edge Sport/ST because they are the same engine and transmission. You guys just have about 400 lb more weight than the Fusion. I can get 28 mpg highway, but average about 22-23 mpg in normal driving. The transmission in my 17 Fusion Sport doesn't shift as well as the 6F55 in my 2014 SHO. All I did with the SHO was slightly increase line pressure and slightly increase torque limits during shifting. It felt fine. My 17 Sport came from the factory with a horrible delay in the 1-2 and 2-3. I ran it at the track 2 years ago with an initial early tune of mine and ran 12.7 @ 108. I've greatly improved the tune but haven't had a chance to run it. I found quickly the 2.7 lacks a lot of low end torque. My SHO was producing 100+ ft-lb more torque at 2700-3000 RPM than the Fusion Sport, and the 2.7 makes the most torque during launch at about 4000+ RPM. So you need to powerbrake the snot out of the engine to avoid bogging. My 60' was 1.8x same as the SHO, but the SHO just launched harder and faster, even though it was a 200 lb heavier vehicle. The 3.5 is just a better engine. My transmission is always covered in a thin coat of ATF, and my oil pan is seeping at the front right corner. About 2 summers ago, the entire right underbody of the car from the front to the exhaust tips was covered in oil that dripped all over the place. It wasn't ATF, didn't smell like gear oil, and felt almost like engine oil or tar. My oil levels seemed fine so I never figured out what it was. BTW - back to the OP's post... I used Ford IDS and FJDS to check for any updates to the PCM and TCM last summer, and didn't find one other than an update for the PCM. I ran that update on my dad's 2017 Fusion Sport then did a comparison with my PCM - Ford only changed 1 table that I could access (O2 sensor tip temperature) and nothing else.

Just thought I'd chime in: The Taurus/Explorer D3/D4 platform has a subframe that sits right next to where the external water pump would fit, so the 3.5 wouldn't be able to have an external water pump due to clearance problems. At lease this is what I observed on my 2018 Explorer and my 2014 SHO. On the Edge, I'm sure it was the same issue but maybe not. On my Fusion Sport, the 2.7L EcoBoost fits into the car and has an external water pump but the 2.7/3.0 is an entirely different engine (with its own leaky oil pan issues). The Fusion Sport PTU has a drain plug and a fill plug, and has coolant running into a PTU cooler. I've heard Police departments having to replace the water pumps on their 3.5/3.7 Interceptors every 50k miles. I seriously doubt their coolant got too acidic in that short amount of time. Their engine oil usually gets changed every 5k miles.

I just got a 2017 fusion Sport which has the same engine. Automakers originally used these cartridge oil filters way back in the day. GM switched to these for their Ecotec engines in the early 2000s and I believe VW Audi used them earlier as well. Ford just recently switched over. It's a lot cleaner, but not less expensive. AC Delco PF457G is like 9 bux at Walmart and it is just a cartridge without o rings. FL500s is half that price and has the metal canister, adbv, etc...